Road Cycling

Unless the mech is positioned too high or - as per the OP's suspicion - there is some major side to side play in the bottom bracket, in which case the crankset could conceivably move too far over to the left side of the bike and with the chain already in the smallest ring at the back it could then pop off at the front. I think we need some pictures.

I would agree if that was the case, but to me it read as he didn't think there was any side to side play but was exploring the idea of using a spacer to push the chain ring further out. Either way its worth finding out if there is any play and check the mech height as you say.
 
So just before I go being stupid and spending lots of money, a Shimano 11 cassette will definitely fit on a Campag 10/11 Speed freehub?

As topgun said, they arent interchangable as the freehubs are different. As far as I know, 11 speed wheel and cassettes combos are interchangeable though as the difference is minute.

So an 11 speed Shimano wheel and cassette can be used on a 11 speed Campy setup and vice versa, or so I am led to believe.
 
As topgun said, they arent interchangable as the freehubs are different. As far as I know, 11 speed wheel and cassettes combos are interchangeable though as the difference is minute.

So an 11 speed Shimano wheel and cassette can be used on a 11 speed Campy setup and vice versa, or so I am led to believe.

This. The freehubs have different splines.

@SoliD - If this is a money saving exercise to avoid having to buy mintylicious Campag cassettes, you could look at third party compatible cassettes. Miche spring to mind, but I don't know how much cheaper they are.
 
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As topgun said, they arent interchangable as the freehubs are different. As far as I know, 11 speed wheel and cassettes combos are interchangeable though as the difference is minute.

So an 11 speed Shimano wheel and cassette can be used on a 11 speed Campy setup and vice versa, or so I am led to believe.

Ah wrong end of the stick when reading stuff online, so 11 speed campy hub + cassette will work in any 11speed set up. But Cassettes can't just stick any shimano/sram on.

This. The freehubs have different splines.

@Solid - If this is a money saving exercise to avoid having to buy mintylicious Campag cassettes, you could look at third party compatible cassettes. Miche spring to mind, but I don't know how much cheaper they are.

In essence, I've found a zipp disc with 11sp campy hub for a good price, just want to ensure it is compatible. Guess could order the shimano hub if really necessary and sell on the campag one.
 
Managed to get out for a sly one on Saturday. Headwinds everywhere and I'd chosen quite an open A road stretch. Needed to be back in 1hr 30 so timed it quite well, put in a few efforts but average really suffered due to the winds. HR was a little higher than I'd normally expect but I was fresh enough to maintain it. Putting that down to the conditions, low mileage week and possibly shifting a bit of illness. Rode out to where a friend works (pub) who I might catch for some after work rides so was good to see how long it takes.

5 miles out @20.8mph. Unavoidable brace of hills. Paced into block headwind & temp lights @19mph. Headwind into sidewind @ 19mph. Unavoidable hills #2. Sidewind on way back @17mph. I was starting to empty out at this point, think just a result of the headwind efforts and reduction in hard miles over the last 10+ days meaning I've lost some of my top end form. Took it easy home along a back road after putting a bit of a seated effort into a minor climb I was fairly happy with.

Think my power levels are good but with the reduction in hard miles (after work rides with some friends, we've not been out for 2 weeks), I'm missing some of my stamina for continued harder efforts. Think some turbo sessions will progress with that as I tend to mix intervals with threshold stuff on there. We finally shifted our old fridge from the garage (and had a bit of a sort out), so have lots of space now for the Turbo setup! :cool::D

I've never really turbo'd inside before, what is the recommended setup for a garage situation? Open the big 'main' door and sit facing it (with TV on a table infront) and fan to front/side on floor. I would have to be slightly aware of security as faces onto housing estate & probably have to move the setup when complete (PITA)... The option (I currently favour), is turbo facing the rear door at a 90 degree angle (normal sized door) of the garage, increasing security but would need 2 fans (for decent airflow) around the corner. Could leave in situ as there's much more room there (wouldn't involve moving out of the way when getting other stuff in/out).

My questions are really about airflow I guess. I have lots of fans & options! :cool:

Does anyone use a HR monitor with Strava? do you have any recommendations on which to buy? Also, does it display HR along with the usual time/distance/ avg speed etc when it is connected?
I went the Wahoo TICKR route for exactly this reason - broadcasts on BT & ANT+.

I first used on an iPhone3GS with BT & Strava app.
Changed to Samsung S5 with BT on Strava app.
Changed to Samsung S5 with ANT+ on IPBike (for other sensors) sync to Strava.
Changed to Edge 810 with ANT+ sync to Strava.
Also use it with ANT+ USB dongle to my lappy for Zwift.

TICKR has not skipped a beat (luls) in 3+ years and would happily buy another! Been through a couple of batteries, wash the strap every month or so and that's it! No issues! :)
I then sat behind them all the way to the car park they were headed to. Morons.
You need a bell so you can sit behind them ringing it...! :p
Nice riding lads, it's been a nice day for it. Been out myself too, met up with a mate at midday and cycled over Dovestones, Holmfirth, Holme Moss and then followed Woodhead Pass into Glossop before heading home. 34 miles in total and just under 4000ft of elevation. Glad to find a loop I can do on my own from home in the future. Been a pleasure having company on tap the last few weeks.
Awesome loop and some impressive climbing if you use that as a local training ride! :cool:
Nailed today's TT (my first, on the club course) :cool:
Enjoyed the writeup & info. Well done mate!
Been away for the weekend so this might have been posted already...

Aldi have the Edge 810 for £179 this Thursday but you can pre-order online:

https://www.aldi.co.uk/garmin-edge-810/p/073223081458200
Barstewards. I was hoping to shift my 810 for only slightly less than that on the 'bay! :rolleyes:
 
In essence, I've found a zipp disc with 11sp campy hub for a good price, just want to ensure it is compatible. Guess could order the shimano hub if really necessary and sell on the campag one.

What hub is it? You can replace the freehub for some wheels for about £30.
 
Ah wrong end of the stick when reading stuff online, so 11 speed campy hub + cassette will work in any 11speed set up. But Cassettes can't just stick any shimano/sram on.

In essence, I've found a zipp disc with 11sp campy hub for a good price, just want to ensure it is compatible. Guess could order the shimano hub if really necessary and sell on the campag one.

As far as I am aware that is correct. A Shimano, Campy or SRAM 11 speed wheel and cassette are all interchangeable. When swapping between them, it might require a tiny adjustment on the barrel adjuster but otherwise it should work fine. This only applies to a 11 speed setup though.
 
Creak/click/grind developing more on my Diverge, seems to be pedal/crank related (only get it when putting power down seated & stood), although I did regrease the BB/spindle last weekend when it first started... Going to strip headset and check out saddle/seattube to eliminate them later as it'll drive me mad if I ride for a couple of hours tomorrow!
Stripping & regreasing seems to have sorted it. Headset didn't really need doing. Pedals were tight and still well greased. Seattube was 'greased' (wasn't grease but didn't seem 'grippy' like I was expecting) but dry in places, refitted with carbon paste. Crank/BB seemed still well greased but picking up lots of grit/dirt around pedal arms, cleaned them more and kept 'exposed' grease to a minimum. Main thing I cleaned/greased which seemed to be lacking was RD hanger, it only has 1 screw holding it that wasn't very tight so cleaned, greased & refitted at 6 nM. No note/info on how tight it should be... :rolleyes:

Anyone have any thoughts on the Planet X Pro Carbon?

It's come up for sale over the weekend for £699 witha SRAM Rival 22 Groupset.

Currently riding a Giant Defy 3 2013 with a Sora Groupset. Would the Pro Carbon be much of an upgrade and worth the expense?

Planet X - Pro Carbon
Read up on the groupsets to help you decide. Don't let the fact that 'it's carbon' decide for you - cheaper carbon is no lighter than aluminium. Although the dampening effects you get from it may help, switching out to 25mm tyres (from 23mm) gives you more (of course you can combine the two).
Tough first day in the hills today
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How are you finding the Roubaix?
You guys who use SPDs, if you want to alter the cleat angle when they've been on the shoe for a while, what's the best way to do this? The cleat has pressed the shape of its gripper into the bottom of the shoe, so when I try to do the bolts up with the cleat in the new position it simply slips into its original indent. There doesn't seem to be an easy way around this. Is there like a cleat jig/wrench/holder or anything I can use?
I previously 'trimmed' down some of the sticking up bits of plastic on the sole to help with a knife, you could also sand them down, not really much else you can do... Except getting stronger fingers (or another pair of hands) to hold in place while tightening...! ;):p
 
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Unless the mech is positioned too high or - as per the OP's suspicion - there is some major side to side play in the bottom bracket, in which case the crankset could conceivably move too far over to the left side of the bike and with the chain already in the smallest ring at the back it could then pop off at the front. I think we need some pictures.

It's not the mech height, I reset that last time and it's as low as it'll go. It's almost like I reset it and it's fine then 50 or so miles it decides to start acting up. I'll have a look later and get some pictures to see if anyone can spot any issues.
 
It's not the mech height, I reset that last time and it's as low as it'll go. It's almost like I reset it and it's fine then 50 or so miles it decides to start acting up. I'll have a look later and get some pictures to see if anyone can spot any issues.

Do you mean you reset it through the software or physically moved it? I don't know how di2 mechs work, but I'd have thought you still had to physically get it in the right position over the chainrings, and I wouldn't have thought that would be the sort of thing to move over time.
 
Do you mean you reset it through the software or physically moved it? I don't know how di2 mechs work, but I'd have thought you still had to physically get it in the right position over the chainrings, and I wouldn't have thought that would be the sort of thing to move over time.

Ah sorry I wasn't being very clear. By reset I meant I took it off and set it up from scratch again.

Di2 set up is very similar to a normal mech, set the height, set it so its parallel with the rings, set the higher and lower limits but then rather than the cable moving it it from higher to low it's programmed in to a set distance.
 
Went and had a look at the mech again and noticed that the outside of the cage was a bow shape rather than flat and angled outwards slightly (pic makes it look less extreme)

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And then I thought I'd have a look from the bottom and there was a massive gap which even though the cage at the top was 1mm away from the chain, I could quite easily take the chain off because of that gap at the bottom.

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So I've pushed it back into place; rather easily which is concerning - thought it might be a bit harder given it's supposed to be a somewhat rigid structure. I'll see how I get on with it next ride hopefully that'll stop it falling off each time I move to the big ring.

Thanks for mentioning taking a pic! I wouldn't have noticed the shape otherwise!
 
Edit: Just had a look at the FSA installation instructions and it says that "shims" may be used to stop "side play". I don't think there is any side play. Does anyone know of any adverse effects on the bike if I got one to put on the drive side to test my theory?
If there's no side play then a 'wavy washer' type isn't going to make much difference... Equally, if there's space for one there WITHOUT causing additional crankarm rub on the frame/BB cups then it could be worth a try.

I rode my FSA HTII 5800 setup without one and it was terrible, moving from side to side every pedal stroke. I rode it on a 90km Sportive with a wavy washer which wasn't big/strong enough and it was better but still not a long term 'fix', I wouldn't recommend this! I had metal 'shavings' showing on my chain from all the rub. My chain didn't jump off at any point (but I'm fairly lucky as I've only ever had 1-2 dropped chains). I guess I'm saying - if you had any side play you'd certainly have noticed it! :eek:

Edit: Doh! Beaten to it! Wonder if the side plates are interchangeable with a mechanical FD as a cheaper repair option than a whole new Di2 one...! :o
worth noting that the cheapest campag 11 speed cassette is about £70-80
And dare I say it... The money might be better spent converting the freehub to Shimano...

Edit: Depending on the saving... Is the worse case scenario cost+faff/hassle of switching out the freehub worth the savings? It sounds like you can run it happy enough with just a slight reindex, but if you were looking to regularly swap wheels/cassettes around consider the cost of swapping out the freehub as part of the purchase price. You'd also have a 'new' campag freehub & cassette to sell on of course...
 
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Another pointless day at the fracture clinic where they demonstrated that they didn't listen to me when I told them that I needed to see an upper limb specialist. End result...I was told I need to see an upper limb specialist :rolleyes: Third fracture clinic appointment booked in for Thursday...

Back in work today too, which was an interesting way to put myself through pain all day.

On a brighter note, jumped on the turbo trainer to try and keep fitness ticking over. Had to sit bolt upright though interestingly I noticed I could reduce my HR by 5 by putting my right hand on the bars.
 
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