While you're here... Any suggestions on a spacer to move a crankset 'outwards' to help chainring alignment? BB30 Praxis crank spider with my Powertap C1 rings... Ring clearance to frame is tight & FD cage clearance is VERY tricky leading me to some very exact indexing. So 'EXACT' that any high wattages causing chainring/frame flex cause a distinctive 'knock' as some of the chainring has lumps/raised parts (to aid big ring shifting) which catch/rub on the cage.
Too many wattage^bazookas? It's 'only' 500/600W (and higher)
Pressfit you *might* get away with a collar on the BB axle between crank and bearing. It'd have to be slim otherwise you'll not have enough engagement for the left hand crank. Threaded systems you can accomplish this with BB spacers like the MTB boys use, but since cranks started having the axle bonded in, this is very limited (in the good old days you'd just have used a longer BB axle)
if it's the inner chainring, chainring spacers will do no good, the opposite in fact. The outer, you could use chainring spacers but you don't have a lot to play with before you ruin shifting entirely.
Going to give some serious thought into ditching Garmin for cycling. My Edge 200 is too limited for me now not having ANT+, using my fenix 3 feels a bit of a bodge on the bike even with a proper mount and I keep reading about "occasional" crashes with most modern Garmin units. My 200 has never crashed... ever and maybe I'm expecting too much but well, that's what I'd expect
Now last time I asked this I got a lecture about riding without a phone and I can't remember actually getting an answer but can the Wahoo units run while not tethered to a phone? I understand the need to setup them and up/down load etc. but if I just want to track a ride I want to have the ability to do so without my mobile on me.
So these turned up on Monday, picked them up from my neighbour today. That is one quick turnaround. All running true and weigh as described at around 1660g. May give them a run out on Saturday.
Now last time I asked this I got a lecture about riding without a phone and I can't remember actually getting an answer but can the Wahoo units run while not tethered to a phone? I understand the need to setup them and up/down load etc. but if I just want to track a ride I want to have the ability to do so without my mobile on me.
Gah. Got ready to ride home this evening and as I was getting my bike out of the rack I found I had a flat tyre. It took me forever to even get the tyre off the rim. Bit of an odd puncture, as it's on the inside of the tube, rim-side. If it happens again I'll have to change the rim tape or something. Then when I was putting the wheel back on I managed to put it on the wrong way round, fixie sprocket side, so I had to wrestle it out again. Rubbish.
Now last time I asked this I got a lecture about riding without a phone and I can't remember actually getting an answer but can the Wahoo units run while not tethered to a phone? I understand the need to setup them and up/down load etc. but if I just want to track a ride I want to have the ability to do so without my mobile on me.
Pretty sure the RLFKT requires phone as that effectively acts as it's computer. I'd imagine you weren't considering that one anyway but worth mentioning so no one gets confused
While you're here... Any suggestions on a spacer to move a crankset 'outwards' to help chainring alignment? BB30 Praxis crank spider with my Powertap C1 rings... Ring clearance to frame is tight & FD cage clearance is VERY tricky leading me to some very exact indexing. So 'EXACT' that any high wattages causing chainring/frame flex cause a distinctive 'knock' as some of the chainring has lumps/raised parts (to aid big ring shifting) which catch/rub on the cage.
Too many wattage^bazookas? It's 'only' 500/600W (and higher)
Are you sure the front mech is lined up properly? Often too low a front mech the back of the cage will catch on top of the chainring itself, you would have to have the front mech at an angle or high screw too far out for the inner face of the chainring to hit the inner mech plate.
Pretty sure the RLFKT requires phone as that effectively acts as it's computer. I'd imagine you weren't considering that one anyway but worth mentioning so no one gets confused
Nope, just the ELEMNT units. Thank you both for the clarification.
I've got a birthday coming up so I'll have a think in the mean time whether I value the smaller size (and £50 saving) over the bigger screen, extra row of info LED's and marginally better battery life.
I dont agree with that at all. He made a suggestion, it was then pointed out that it wasnt a great idea, he accepted that it wasnt a good idea and moved on.
I can quite easily image some politicians in this country having a similarly bad idea, then pushing that idea through just to avoid admitting they had a bad idea.
I dont agree with that at all. He made a suggestion, it was then pointed out that it wasnt a great idea, he accepted that it wasnt a good idea and moved on.
I can quite easily image some politicians in this country having a similarly bad idea, then pushing that idea through just to avoid admitting they had a bad idea.
Just as long as Royal Parks Police don't start looking at it... They have 'closed' the cycle path in the middle for no apparent reason. Still at least 200 cyclists using it a day.
I dont agree with that at all. He made a suggestion, it was then pointed out that it wasnt a great idea, he accepted that it wasnt a good idea and moved on.
I can quite easily image some politicians in this country having a similarly bad idea, then pushing that idea through just to avoid admitting they had a bad idea.
Can I get some guidance on bike sizing? I'm looking at frames for my cx/winter/crap weather bike. I had been eyeing the mango point ar, but it looks like that isn't going to be back in stock until the 12th of never, but I've now seen the Dolan rdx which looks good and is only a bit more expensive. Dolan don't give any guidance on sizing - I think they're hoping you'll go along and pay them for a fitting - and they only give basic geometry, with some angles, seat tube, head tube and effective top tube.
My Planet X rt-58 fits me pretty well and that has a 520mm seat tube and 535mm effective top tube. The Dolan rdx extra small has a seat tube of 500mm and effective top tube of 535mm, while the small has a seat tube of 520mm and effective top tube of 555mm. There are also differences in head tube, but I'm less worried about that as I can cut the fork as I see fit and use spacers if needs be. So, do I go smaller to match top tube and adjust my seatpost length up, or go up to match seat tube and then have to use a shorter stem to match reach? I'm concerned about going too long on reach as I expect I'll want to be a bit more uptight for this type of riding and a tiny weeny stem could muck up the handling.
Any thoughts?
I suppose I should check seat angle as well as that will affect saddle position fore and aft which will also affect reach...
Pressfit you *might* get away with a collar on the BB axle between crank and bearing. It'd have to be slim otherwise you'll not have enough engagement for the left hand crank. Threaded systems you can accomplish this with BB spacers like the MTB boys use, but since cranks started having the axle bonded in, this is very limited (in the good old days you'd just have used a longer BB axle)
The inner is fine, it's just the inside of the cage on the inside of the outer chainring & limit screw is all the way in! There's already a 'wavy washer' between the spider arm and bearing cover but it's not a very thick one (and I don't have one thicker to replace it with). There's more than enough engagement/thread to account for a few mm.
Thanks for the links, perfect info & a 'collar' on the axle is what I'm after, I'd really struggled to figure out what they were called lol
Praxis Works TURN Zayante, listed as 30mm I think - "The Zayante combines the benefits of a wide outboard bearing stance with a 30mm aluminum spindle."
Praxis use the 'M30 system' (which makes them compatible with almost all BB sizes/standards) and I think all the axles are 30mm. The fact mine is also BB/PF30 confirms this too... Now to find a UK supplier/cheaper source of one...
Going to give some serious thought into ditching Garmin for cycling. My Edge 200 is too limited for me now not having ANT+, using my fenix 3 feels a bit of a bodge on the bike even with a proper mount and I keep reading about "occasional" crashes with most modern Garmin units. My 200 has never crashed... ever and maybe I'm expecting too much but well, that's what I'd expect
Now last time I asked this I got a lecture about riding without a phone and I can't remember actually getting an answer but can the Wahoo units run while not tethered to a phone? I understand the need to setup them and up/down load etc. but if I just want to track a ride I want to have the ability to do so without my mobile on me.
I ride everywhere with one but I have BT disabled (to save battery) so mine hardly ever communicates with my ELEMNT. The only times I sync it is when the ELEMNT hasn't been able to connect to Strava to auto-upload (away from home & work wifi), it then takes a little while to sync the huge number of rides (like maybe 5 mins) I clock up (3 per day commuting + anything else!). I've found it's much easier to browse and select a route to follow from the mobile app, rather than directly on the unit, but it's not something I use very frequently - if it's a planned club/group ride I'll just select it on the unit for ease as I know the name.
Gah. Got ready to ride home this evening and as I was getting my bike out of the rack I found I had a flat tyre. It took me forever to even get the tyre off the rim. Bit of an odd puncture, as it's on the inside of the tube, rim-side. If it happens again I'll have to change the rim tape or something. Then when I was putting the wheel back on I managed to put it on the wrong way round, fixie sprocket side, so I had to wrestle it out again. Rubbish.
Are you sure the front mech is lined up properly? Often too low a front mech the back of the cage will catch on top of the chainring itself, you would have to have the front mech at an angle or high screw too far out for the inner face of the chainring to hit the inner mech plate.
Yup fairly sure it's totally lined up, if I tweak the HL screw the whole inner plate of the mech cage rubs the chainring, not just one side or the other. Fairly sure I've got the mech aligned ok as did need to move it out when changing rings and have 'redone' it a couple of times since to try and eliminate.
Slowtwich has a road database with frameset measurements and geometry, see if you can find them to compare? (must have other databases for different disciplines).
I could well be wrong but from what I've learned, with TT bikes at least, stack & reach are more important than the length of particular tubes. Seat tube angle will of course affect your position over the BB with saddle fore/aft adjustment on top of course.
Why are a frame’s stack and reach potentially helpful numbers? If you know the stack and reach requirement of your riding position (acquired by working with a bike fitter who uses a sizing cycle that will provide the measurements or measuring these distances on an existing bike that is properly set-up for you and fits you well), you can look at the stack and reach dimensions on a frame sizing chart and know whether the bike will fit you well before you buy it.
The potential benefits of a stack and reach based system compared to traditional bike size listing (Medium, 54cm…) is multi-fold:
It standardizes bike geometry/sizing between brands and models as it transcends the limitations of looking at just a single size related variable (top tube length, seat tube length…) on a bike. Stack and reach dimensions consider a number of key variables in relation to each other and thus offer significantly more insight into how the frame actually fits than any other two measurements on the bike.
It stresses the importance of rider first bike selection by placing the most important part of the bike selection process – the rider’s position – first. In order to use stack and reach well, you need to know the stack and reach coordinates of your riding position too.
It is not unheard of for bikes from two manufacturers that are both called the same size (Medium or 54cm, for example) to actually fit up to 2cm (a full size different) than each other. Stack and reach shows how the frame actually fits/sizes and thus allows it to be compared to other bikes on the market accurately and relatively easily.
It distinguishes between sometimes confusing and inter-related frame dimensions. For example, it can be easy to confuse seat tube angle (the angle a frames’ seat tube is actually built to) and seat angle (where the rider’s seat should actually be placed in space in relation to the bottom bracket). Stack and reach virtually eliminate this confusion by simply showing how the frame actually fits.
Stack and reach is a significantly improved standard than the traditional sizing methods that are based on effective seat tube length and other outdated frame dimensions that are virtually irrelevant when it comes to how the bike actually fits. Stack and reach is not without challenges though, and it is important that you understand what the dimensions do not provide.
Frame stack and reach dimensions do not take into account handlebar shape or stem length/angle and spacers. The size cycle based stack and reach template we use in our fittings can take this into account and there are other systems available that do as well. Regardless, you must know what handlebar your stack and reach coordinates were based, and how those dimensions relate to the dimensions on the handlebar that either comes with the bike or that you will be using, as these can vary significantly and directly affect fit.
Stack and reach does not include headset type. There can be up to 3cm of effective stack difference between internal and external headset frames. If you are considering a frame with an external bearing headset (some custom and specialty brands) make sure to add in the headset you will be using to the listed stack dimensions.
Stack and reach does not consider potential seat angle limitations on the frame. For example, if you ride a 75 degree seat angle and are considering a frame based on a 73 seat tube angle, make sure that there are seatpost options for the frame that will allow the seat to be set to 75 degrees. This can be a problem, especially with frames that use integrated seat masts or a proprietary seatpost design. Even if the stack and reach dimensions look fine on paper, you need to be sure that any frame you are considering offers a configuration that will allow your saddle to be set to your riding position.
100% Don't need a phone to ride with an Element. You only need it with you if you want to allow someone to track you live. Then it needs to be connected. Not sure where the idea comes from that you need the Elemnt to be connected to the phone when riding. It's a standalone unit, GPS etc all built in.
Of course, phone is required for setup. The Elemnt can actually upload via your home wifi, without being connected to the phone. That's how mine syncs to Strava.
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Any suggestions on a spacer to move a crankset 'outwards' to help chainring alignment? BB30 Praxis crank spider with my Powertap C1 rings... Ring clearance to frame is tight & FD cage clearance is VERY tricky leading me to some very exact indexing. So 'EXACT' that any high wattages causing chainring/frame flex cause a distinctive 'knock' as some of the chainring has lumps/raised parts (to aid big ring shifting) which catch/rub on the cage.
They have 'closed' the cycle path in the middle for no apparent reason. Still at least 200 cyclists using it a day.
