Road Cycling

Where is the best place to sell a road bike?

I have only sold mountain bikes / parts before through pinkbike. I was surprised to see 600 road bikes on there for sale but I have had no luck with my advert so think it might be best to try elsewhere!
 
Scorchio today. I got out at half seven and it was toasty even then. Only a short one for me, 28 flat miles. Takes me to 175 for the week which I think is enough!
 
Has anybody tried insulated cycling water bottles before? Froze my second water bottle but it was still warm by the time I needed it. :(
 
Thinking of treating myself to a road bike and a friend at work recommend the Btwin Triban 520.
Reviews seem good for a entry level bike.
But how do you determin which size to get?
 
Anyone know anything about using 15mm thru axels?

Having issues with the bearing tension being far too high on my front wheel. It's a hunt 4 seasons disc and am using their adapter:
https://www.huntbikewheels.com/pages/frequently-asked-questions#title10

It says:
"The 15mm axle cup will be held within 0.5mm of the bearing hole and inserting and tightening your bolt thru axle will apply the correct amount of preload tension to securely hold all parts in place."
If I secure the axel in place so it's reasonably tight the wheel barely spins. I would have to slacken it off to the extent that there is virtually no resistance when closing the lever :(

I wonder if it's to do with where you screw in the threaded lock rings but I haven't got them on that tight
 
DEL 707 said:
Thinking of treating myself to a road bike and a friend at work recommend the Btwin Triban 520.
Reviews seem good for a entry level bike.
But how do you determin which size to get?
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If you've got a store near you then go in and ask to try them! If you're ordering online, they have suggested sizes based on height. That's usually accurate enough, unless you're at the borders between two sizes, in which case you have to have a think about how long your arms and torso are relative to your legs.

Good bike, btw.
 
dan1987 said:
Where is the best place to sell a road bike?

I have only sold mountain bikes / parts before through pinkbike. I was surprised to see 600 road bikes on there for sale but I have had no luck with my advert so think it might be best to try elsewhere!
Click to expand...

http://webuycycle.co.uk/ If you don't want the hassle of advertising, time wasters etc.

They bought 2 of my bikes this year, very, very good service and almost completely hassle free.
 
dan1987 said:
Where is the best place to sell a road bike?

I have only sold mountain bikes / parts before through pinkbike. I was surprised to see 600 road bikes on there for sale but I have had no luck with my advert so think it might be best to try elsewhere!
Click to expand...

bikeradar forum too, but you need to post a little until the admin let you see. Its a very good forum in my opinion.
 
Vonhelmet said:
Snip.
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Ta, I think it will come with some persuasion, will find out this evening. Tapping in craft knife blades as 'spacers' alternating sides and stacking on top of one another is probably going to be the first angle of attack. Alu fork & tube so not concerned about slicing through carbon :p

One of 'those' rides yesterday...

TL : DR - decent human beings do still exist! :)

Spotted a slow flat late yesterday evening so, removed the stone, trimmed a tyre boot to put inside the tyre and fitted a new tube. First of the year after 3,700 miles. No issues this morning, still holding pressure. So set off early morning whilst it was cooler for my metric & then some.

8 miles in, flat rear. *Sigh*. On investigation it looks like the new tube I fitted yesterday has failed along one of the forming lines. C'est la vie. Out comes the CO2, which goes off in my hand :rolleyes: Erghhh. Mini-Pump to the rescue. 80 PSI later and having sweat plenty. I'm off again.

(Last time I used my current Lifeline Valve, 2 canisters went off in my hand and bugger all went in to the tyre. Turns out having now tried at home the newer version accepts the canister and then has a threaded collar to open/close flow. Where as the previous version accepts the canister and disperses once pressed on to the valve stem which was much simpler.)

So being extra cautious and feeling a little concerned with 60m to cover and only 1 tube remaining, I ride 'carefully'. 10 miles later. Rear flat again. FML. Exactly the same place and what looks like a failed tube along the same form/mould line, ***** :confused:. Then I realise the boot I fitted, which I wouldn't normally and in hindsight not sure why I did... is actually cutting the tyre and what I thought was a form/mould line is actually just an impression of the boot :o Last tube in and 70 PSI with the mini-pump and I'm rolling again. (3 ***** ride past ignoring a shout for a spare CO2/tube if they had surplus).

My faith in humanity was restored about 10 miles later when I came across a middle aged chap and his daughter (no pics :p). I asked if they could spare a tube or CO2 and turns out they'd just finished their ride and lived a mile down the road. 'Clive' my knight on a shining Pinarello chucks me a spare tube, top up of water and a track pump to boost the rear.

After that I didn't really care about the relatively crappy start to the ride anymore :) I managed not to go full ragequit at the roadside, I'm pretty well tempered generally and worse things can happen than having to call a cab but was just really made up that people in this world do still exist. Will drop something through his letterbox (not poo) as way of a 'thank-you' and return his tube this week.
 
Roady said:
I'd choose the Fulcrum's. Very well reviewed and well regarded wheelset. Like you say, the 3T is more of an unknown!

3T's are quite heavy for the money, nice and wide at 25mm - good for 25 or ideally 28mm wide tyres. A little more of a do it all wheelset and better if heading off road (due to width), but with low spoke count they're not really aimed as a CX wheelset.

Quattro LG are a little lighter, a little deeper but not as wide (23mm). Probably slightly quicker (aero) & road orientated than the 3T.
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Thanks for your opinion, I think you're right, I've had my eye on them for a while and really need them, I've no confidence in my current wheels over short or long distance's and I'm off to France soon and am hoping for better luck than in the Peak District.
 
Dogs haircut got cancelled so I (last minute) got out on a social ride saturday morning. 17 riders out but we lost 2 soon after the start, one being a slow lady I spent 20 miles towing a few weeks back. Wasn't going to volunteer again! I don't mind doing it but twice in a row would've been grating on my patience a little too much. Rest of the ride mostly unevenful, fairly boring flat route and easy pace with only a couple of efforts. Cultivating tanlines. Just as well really, I was well over quota at ~150 miles for the week and ~200 miles up on pace for the year. May break 5000 miles this year at this rate! :o :D

Pretty much decided on the only planned 'sportive' ride this year being a 100 to at least get that crossed off. Determined to get out for some TT's and do the Tumble before the end of the year so even if I only do 1 sportive (did about 5 or 6 last year) at least I'll have nailed my other goals.
 
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.:SAmSuNG:. said:
Ok took it to Decathlon and got them to have a go adjusting it. Not tested it but i imagine its helped.

Here is a pic of my front rings and a photo of the jockey wheels that looks abit worse for wear.

20170616_102022.jpg


20170616_102055.jpg


20170616_102119.jpg
<snip>

Also does anyone know what jockey wheels i need to order?
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As mentioned they seem ok, just need a good clean! Jockey wheels are a false economy, I know because I bought some - £14.99 and within a month one of the springs within my RD had broken and I had to replace the whole thing, found one S/H for £22! Probably only worth buying them if running Di2/DA etc.

Steedie said:
Took the headset apart, cleaned the bearings and greased everything back up, bolts and all. I don't think whoever put the bike together put any grease on at all, there wasn't much in the way of grease to clean off at all.
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Well done, a good first step in self maintenance. You have just discovered some of the easiest to replace bearings too! They do tend to be exposed to more water than others so grease washes out easy and they'll tend to rust before they ever wear out. :cool:

SoliD said:
Like buses.... Punctures are. Not had 1 for ages and now I'm walking to be picked up. 3 this morning first on front hitting a hole. Second in the rear and third also in the rear. All within a mile or so... Oh well better to get them out the way than be stranded in France in 2 weeks.
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Rubbish luck! Like you say - at least they're out of the way and you weren't stood waiting in the wind & rain.

FrenchTart said:
Are there any decent road-specific framesets with thru axles and discs yet?
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https://www.specializedconceptstore...works-venge-vias-disc-sagan-edition-frameset/

Too much? :p

There is a 'disc module' Tarmac too ;)

ShiWarrior said:
on other news, looks like my cycling career is now over, coming to the end of these tablets and no change still, so all my stuff will be going up for sale sometime, hopefully not yet, but i dunno :(
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That's utterly rubbish to hear mate, sounds like it's not stopping you doing other things, thankfully! Who knows, you may be able to revisit some very casual riding in the future. Just not now.

Cliff bars are awesome! Get a 'club discount' on them at my LBS (which only really brings them down to Wiggle bulk purchase prices but nevermind). I'm finding these Trek flapjack's a quite good cheaper substitute.

Vonhelmet said:
Any cycling dads get anything good today? I got a cycling cartoons book which is pretty funny, and bicycle top trumps :D
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Maybe next year! :D
 
oli collett said:
Anyone know anything about using 15mm thru axels?

Having issues with the bearing tension being far too high on my front wheel. It's a hunt 4 seasons disc and am using their adapter:
https://www.huntbikewheels.com/pages/frequently-asked-questions#title10

It says:
"The 15mm axle cup will be held within 0.5mm of the bearing hole and inserting and tightening your bolt thru axle will apply the correct amount of preload tension to securely hold all parts in place."
If I secure the axel in place so it's reasonably tight the wheel barely spins. I would have to slacken it off to the extent that there is virtually no resistance when closing the lever :(
Click to expand...
Sure the thru axle is the right length and not a few mm short? If you're screwing it in and it's overloading the bearing I would think it wasn't long enough or your end caps are slightly too short...

Speaking about end caps & axles... I have badly marked my axle's thread and bent/broken one end. Have also quite marked the inside of an end cap... All from trying to remove the freehub on my Specialized AXIS 4.0 wheelset. Saw a mention on Specialized zendesk forum thing which said the caps pull off... When in fact they UNSCREW. FFS!

Really annoying Specialized don't seem to do service manuals for their kit. Guy from the LBS said he thought the freehub might be 'sealed' too? (but he wasn't sure). Got it apart and it's the usual spring and pawls setup with cartridge bearings. Cleaned it out and regreased it. Working perfectly now but my freewheel is almost silent, should sort itself out over a week or two I'm sure. Crunchy sounds and 'tingly' engagement noises are gone.

In other news, pulled one of the internally routed cable outters out of my frame, left the cable in, promptly snagged the cable and pulled that through too... NIGHTMARE! GCN 'hack' of using a vacuum cleaner to suck some thread through SAVED MY BACON! :cool:
 
Can anyone recommend a road bike for me please?

I've been driving to work for 6 years which is only 1.2 miles away and I've decided to stop being lazy and cycle to work.

Doesn't have to be majorly expensive, just a bike that isn't going to need working on every few weeks.

Cycling to work is all down hill and vice versa so I'm hoping it'll help me get into shape too.
 
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