Split Air con

Interesting that they will be powering it from a 13amp socket, do you know what the system power draw is?

I was going to run a dedicated 20amp line to mine, but now having second thoughts.
 
it's ok just have the tweeter at ear height when in your listening position.

Yeah it's not far off, pretty good height on those vs where the sofa is. Ideally I'd have the rear speakers actually be a bit behind me, but trying to fit it all into the layout of the lounge is the challenge + sofa positions, and doors and things!

Interesting that they will be powering it from a 13amp socket, do you know what the system power draw is?

I was going to run a dedicated 20amp line to mine, but now having second thoughts.

I'm running the same outdoor unit as @fobose - we are both running off a 13A socket as well.

It's the MXZ-3F54VF which, from what I can see, has a max draw of about 1.6kw's under full load. This should be under the 10A draw value, but not by loads.

They did recommend a separate 20A feed as best practice, but said this should work.

Unit should be under full load much as it will slow down once temps are hit, so little and often may be better than binge cooling or heating.

If I get power issues I can run a new feed from my fusebox just means paying a sparky some cash and having it run all the way around the edge of my house, not ideal, but not impossible either.

How much would this type of a project cost?

I'd guess based on quotes I've had + seen, that you'd be looking at around £1K per room you do, depending on extra work required. The higher tier units like mine and the Zen ones that @fobose has may up that cost a bit, to maybe £1.3~K per room instead of £1K.

I had a couple of quotes back in this thread for public viewing:

https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/threads/split-air-con.18876112/page-5#post-33678297
https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/threads/split-air-con.18876112/page-6#post-33688983

Eventually went with this one, but the units I wound up with were the LN25's which are 2.5kw instead of the 1.8kw LN18's. The extra cost for that was about £100 more on top overall.

https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/posts/33692778

VAT should be 5% on these rather than the usual 20%.

As an interesting side point, the cheapest I can see the LN25's for online without install is about £1.1K each, so if I really could not source them cheaper then I think my approx £4k installed quote isn't bad.

They'll warranty them for 5 years if I get them to do the servicing, or probably only 3 years if I use someone else.
 
You got any pics going of your install yet?

Here we go... (apologies if I mess up with the forum rules, I don't post images often)
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I think it's a pretty neat job really... couldn't be bothered to go up in the loft to take pics of that part but it's also very neat up there. RecoAir in the South West (https://www.recoair.co.uk/) if anybody down this way is wanting a recommendation of a good company - they were really great :) The electrics (including extra cable for future car charging point) were done by G&R electrical who were recommended/work with RecoAir
 
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Yep echo @fobose nice install, very neat! :)

I'm also really jealous as I guess you've been enjoying using it in the recent heat!

Your rendering looks exactly the same as mine, I like it but it's tough to hide things like cabling with. I'd prefer standard brickwork on balance, less maintenance required as well. Is yours reasonably new? mine is a Taylor Wimpey house from 2012 ish.
 
I'm running the same outdoor unit as @fobose - we are both running off a 13A socket as well.

It's the MXZ-3F54VF which, from what I can see, has a max draw of about 1.6kw's under full load. This should be under the 10A draw value, but not by loads.

They did recommend a separate 20A feed as best practice, but said this should work.

Unit should be under full load much as it will slow down once temps are hit, so little and often may be better than binge cooling or heating.

If I get power issues I can run a new feed from my fusebox just means paying a sparky some cash and having it run all the way around the edge of my house, not ideal, but not impossible either.

This is interesting, the datasheet i have for mine is 14 amp, but looking at your page for my unit i'm seeing significantly less max starting current.

Will see what official documentation turns up, but if i can take a spur from the downstairs ring-main, that would be neater, though might stick to the 32amp dedicated circuit i have, just means more cable runs.
 
It looks great @uncle_rufus ! Your internal units look quite interesting too.

Cheers!

Yep echo @fobose nice install, very neat! :)

I'm also really jealous as I guess you've been enjoying using it in the recent heat!

Your rendering looks exactly the same as mine, I like it but it's tough to hide things like cabling with. I'd prefer standard brickwork on balance, less maintenance required as well. Is yours reasonably new? mine is a Taylor Wimpey house from 2012 ish.

Yeah it's been great :) we are having a baby imminently which was the main motivation for getting it - can't be dealing with a newborn in a 30+ degree house!

I agree about the render, it looks fine but I worry what the maintenance on it will eventually be. It's a Barratt house from 2014
 
Been speaking with a Friend and he installs Panasonic due to the warranty and reliability.

Hopefully he will give me a quote for a install.
 
@RJC keep prodding him for the quote. I expect to see install pics in the next few weeks... :p

I will, depending on price I will do it my self or it may more cost effective to him to install as I don’t get any discounts from the suppliers (whether I could use the company account and pay cash hmm) :D:eek:
 
Morning chaps,

This has been installed just in time for the weather to turn bad! :)

Pretty neat job overall, units look good inside. Would have been nice to use slightly smaller trunking but the challenge with that was probably having to run 3 sets of pipework out from the outside unit.

For the 3rd image, it may have been preferable to run the trunking around the corner instead of channelling the condensate around the corner on it's own, but by the time I realised that it was basically too late to do much with it without causing extra work for the installers.

Still working out how best to use the units. Is it best to leave them on all the time ticking over, or best to only turn them on when I need heating or cooling?

External unit is reasonably loud when the demand on it is high, but seems to quieten down when that drops. Quite a bit of background noise here as the road nearby is quite busy, so hopefully the road will drown the unit out :)

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Morning chaps,

This has been installed just in time for the weather to turn bad! :)

Pretty neat job overall, units look good inside. Would have been nice to use slightly smaller trunking but the challenge with that was probably having to run 3 sets of pipework out from the outside unit.

For the 3rd image, it may have been preferable to run the trunking around the corner instead of channelling the condensate around the corner on it's own, but by the time I realised that it was basically too late to do much with it without causing extra work for the installers.

Still working out how best to use the units. Is it best to leave them on all the time ticking over, or best to only turn them on when I need heating or cooling?

External unit is reasonably loud when the demand on it is high, but seems to quieten down when that drops. Quite a bit of background noise here as the road nearby is quite busy, so hopefully the road will drown the unit out :)

Overall a very neat install. I would be really happy with that. I don't think the master bedrooms condense looks too bad, and it is on the side of your house out of sight for the most part of your patio (it's not like most people naturally look up that high either). Is the white bit of trunking above the black condense pipe just for condense too? If so it is a shame it could not have just been the smaller black pipe for the whole run IMO.

The only slight negative I would have to say about your install is the feet the unit are sitting on. Are they anti vibration do you know? The ones I was quoted to have would have raised the unit 100mm off the ground which I think helps aid air flow but I could be talking rubbish.

With regards to what is best on how to run the units, I am not sure tbh. It is an inverter so it should only use what power it needs to keep on top of the cooling and not just be running flat out all the time. The last 3 days I have left mine running a lot but I turn the downstairs off when I go to bed and only run the master bedroom. I turn that off when I wake up as it's normally a bit cooler outside and I can open the windows downstairs to drop the temp.

I left work at 3pm yesterday and I set the master bedroom (top of my house with bedroom door open) to come on 30 mins before. When I got home I turned on both the other two rooms, but leaving all rooms doors open to attempt to combat the heat throughout the house. I took a video about 4pm (40mins of running at this point) and it sounds really quiet, I was standing about 1m away. I've put up a bit of shade by my unit as its in the sun from 1pm.

https://imgur.com/a/PJi6AxX

*edit* not sure how to get sound through imgur. The file on my desktop plays sound, that link is not playing sound for me though. if I save the imgur file to my desktop there is no sound on that. Weird. Any pointers... ? :D

double edit.. figured it out. Had to create a 'post' then it let me chose to 'keep audio'. That above link should now work.
 
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I'd say that's a good result @HungryHippos you have 3x as much AC compared to 99% of houses, and the compressor is very discrete for its size, wall mounting it would have been a bit too conspicuous in that situation.

The mismatch of white trunking and black condensate pipe is an odd choice by the installers though, seems like a case of that's all they had on the van?

I'm going to be making a start on my install tomorrow mounting the evaporator and core drilling a route for the line set.

@fobose could I pose a question to you, do you know if the evaporator in your master bedroom did the installers connect that via flare nuts or did they braze the lines (hotter version of soldering)?
 
@norm I remember the installer mentioning over the phone that he would be brazing the pipe work to the internal units in their work shop before they got to site as they prefer to do that. They walked past me on two of the units with about 1-1.5m of pipe sticking out the unit which they poked through the wall. I think you can see the pipe work sticking out my house in one of my pics . Having said that I don't know for sure if that is what he did or not. I think brazing it would probably be the better option for less chance of leaks but I am not sure if it makes it a chore to remove the internal unit if it needs replacing in the future.

Actually I didn't post the picture, here it is.

I mentioned earlier in one of my posts that it didn't quite go to plan for my trunking. Originally I wanted the trunking from the room on the right to go above the window and join on to the vertical drop on the far left. This wasn't possible due to the condense line so it ended up coming out lower down. If it could have gone above the window, my master bedroom could have also joined on to it which would have made it so much less obvious. :)

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Overall a very neat install. I would be really happy with that. I don't think the master bedrooms condense looks too bad, and it is on the side of your house out of sight for the most part of your patio (it's not like most people naturally look up that high either). Is the white bit of trunking above the black condense pipe just for condense too? If so it is a shame it could not have just been the smaller black pipe for the whole run IMO.

The only slight negative I would have to say about your install is the feet the unit are sitting on. Are they anti vibration do you know? The ones I was quoted to have would have raised the unit 100mm off the ground which I think helps aid air flow but I could be talking rubbish.

With regards to what is best on how to run the units, I am not sure tbh. It is an inverter so it should only use what power it needs to keep on top of the cooling and not just be running flat out all the time. The last 3 days I have left mine running a lot but I turn the downstairs off when I go to bed and only run the master bedroom. I turn that off when I wake up as it's normally a bit cooler outside and I can open the windows downstairs to drop the temp.

I left work at 3pm yesterday and I set the master bedroom (top of my house with bedroom door open) to come on 30 mins before. When I got home I turned on both the other two rooms, but leaving all rooms doors open to attempt to combat the heat throughout the house. I took a video about 4pm (40mins of running at this point) and it sounds really quiet, I was standing about 1m away. I've put up a bit of shade by my unit as its in the sun from 1pm.

https://imgur.com/a/PJi6AxX

*edit* not sure how to get sound through imgur. The file on my desktop plays sound, that link is not playing sound for me though. if I save the imgur file to my desktop there is no sound on that. Weird. Any pointers... ? :D

double edit.. figured it out. Had to create a 'post' then it let me chose to 'keep audio'. That above link should now work.

Good stuff matey!

For the bit on the side of the house, the trunking is connecting the loft refrigerant + power in the top hole, and then feeding those down into the unit below via the hole lower down (top and bottom connecting parts of the trunking shown). The condensate pipe needs to follow gravity for the escape, so the plan with that was always to have the condensate part connect like it is the pic.

The bit that changed a bit from original spec was my request not to feed the master bedroom unit via trunking in the room. I didn't quite realise this but their original plan was to chop a hole into my ceiling in the master bedroom, and have the trunking be internal into the roof space. That would have worked, but the trade off would be having to look at the internal trunking vs that trunking on the external side wall above my garage I have now. I still think avoiding internal trunking was the better choice.

That outside bit might have looked a bit neater though if the colour of the condensate pipe was matching the trunking, although doing so would mismatch the guttering/down pipe, or even if the trunking just branched horizontally to carry it around the corner there, bit overkill but perhaps would look a bit more consistent.

It's possible I could ask them to do something with it, either to carry the trunking on to extend it, or to change the colour of the condensate pipe to better match the trunking?

Your unit sounds a bit quieter than mine at full tilt, I could do your experiment by trying to tax the units by setting them all to like 16 degrees and getting a recording in. Does your noise increase if you set them all to stupidly low values to make them work harder? think you can set the internal fan speed to faster or slower as well, what settings are your units normally on?

They have put mine on anti-vibration pads, but they are certainly not 100mm high, more like 10mm. Original plan was to wall mount but low down, I think being floor mounted was the right choice, but they didn't buy the larger floor feet mounts as a result. Instead looks like they used what would have originally been a larger pad, but cut down to fit under the feet. Using the pads they have done at least keeps the unit lower down on the floor.

I wonder if having thicker anti-vibration feet would really make any difference, or indeed if it would be just as loud on the wall if I'd done that, and it's got more to do with load and occasional differences in how these compressors work/mine hasn't been "worn in" yet?

For your location of the unit I'd definitely have been wall mounting like you did though, floor mounting is a bit of a pain for changing other stuff, eventually I will want to do something with this patio but it will be a while away I suspect.

I'd say that's a good result @HungryHippos you have 3x as much AC compared to 99% of houses, and the compressor is very discrete for its size, wall mounting it would have been a bit too conspicuous in that situation.

The mismatch of white trunking and black condensate pipe is an odd choice by the installers though, seems like a case of that's all they had on the van?

I'm going to be making a start on my install tomorrow mounting the evaporator and core drilling a route for the line set.

@fobose could I pose a question to you, do you know if the evaporator in your master bedroom did the installers connect that via flare nuts or did they braze the lines (hotter version of soldering)?

Yep I agree that wall mounting mine there would have been a mistake for sure.

As above in response to @fobose is it worth asking them to modify at all, or is it just a case of live with it is fine? I don't want to appear unreasonable :)
 
@HungryHippos when you come to paint the render on the house, I guess you could paint the plastic AC ducting and it will be even less obvious? Its quite a close match so certainly doesn't stand out as much as being white or black for example.
 
My friend installed a network cable from my lounge to my living room on my old house, simply run a cable up the outside wall and drilled through to each room (well his dad drilled through for us). The network install was all new to me, I watched a video on how to crimp the connectors etc and away I went. I bought a cable tester to make sure everything was working correctly.

I should have done this ages ago too but here is the second stage network cable install to my office: https://imgur.com/a/bt5E4j0

I had toyed with the idea of getting a data point in every room in the house but I don't plan to have more than one main desktop and a 3-4 wifi devices in the house so it would be a lot of effort for no reward for me.

I've been considering the networking situation a bit, and I think I might have an idea on how I can do it without making a mess of things too badly.

My FTTP and NAS and things all live in my understairs cupboard as I think I mentioned before, which looks a bit like this (excuse the mess inside, I am using it as a bit of a dumping ground for stuff!).

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My lounge is on the other side of the wall to the right there, I would definitely want at least one or two ports in the lounge, my TV and AVR and things are just on the other side so not a long travel distance.

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For those ones I think I could basically punch a hole through the understairs cupboard, into the void under the stairs, then back out into the lounge.

For the upstairs rooms (study + main bedroom), my plan would become a bit more elaborate.

I think I could run CAT5E or CAT6 out of the back of the cupboard, along the outside of the house (the networking stuff would be relatively near to where the red line goes at the bottom right of the pic below). Literally clip it to the gutterpipe going up, and punch it through where the red X is.

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This would then give me an Ethernet line into the loft space. Run that to be near to the loft hatch.

Attach a POE switch to that line (assuming such a thing exists?), then run the ports for the bedroom and study from the POE switch and drop them down into the wall from the loft space. The POE switch would be within arms reach of the loft space in case I needed to reset it.

If I wanted a wireless AP, that could also attach to the POE switch, which itself can be powered using that? the AP could then be located reasonably centrally on the ceiling in the landing.

Does this sound bonkers?

For the lounge I could also do the same trick of going out and back in again along the side wall from the understairs cupboard, which might be easier than going under the void in the stairs.
 
@HungryHippos when you come to paint the render on the house, I guess you could paint the plastic AC ducting and it will be even less obvious? Its quite a close match so certainly doesn't stand out as much as being white or black for example.

Yes not a bad shout indeed, although I really want to avoid having to paint the render for a long time! I guess eventually it might need doing...
 
@HungryHippos That is handy your TV is right behind that wall. Yeah you could go straight through the wall there then and not need to remove skirting at all. It might be a little fiddly trying to fish the cable from the lounge side to the back wall of the cupboard though but my install was all fiddly as I was doing it on my own. If you made a back box size hole on each wall you could have someone shine a torch and maybe reach in to grab the cable rod or cable. My cable rods have a magnet you can attach to one end which is really handy with some of the other gadgets in the set.

With regards to getting the cable to the loft, that is a good idea to run it externally like that. Most of it will be completely hidden too. I think I understand what you want. A switch in the loft that takes its power from the ethernet cable itself? You can get such a device but I must say I don't know much about them so hopefully someone else can chip in and answer that (or you might need to ask outside this thread). I think a netgear GS105PE is the device you need but I am not 100% sure.

I have a switch with 4x poe ports that can power devices such as my AP in my office. My switch needs power though but if you could get power in your loft you could just use that to power your wireless AP.

I am not sure if it's within regs to do but you could take power from a light pendant from one of the bedrooms and put a single plug socket in the loft. It's not like the switch is going to be going above the 6A light circuit. I am sure someone will correct me shortly :D

*edit* Actually on second thoughts you should be able to use a switch like mine to power a switch over POE. Maybe the one I mentioned (GS105PE ) is such a switch that can be powered that way. I will have a read up.

*2nd edit*

This is what it states on netgears website

'The GS105PE is a PoE passthrough switch which can only be powered by Power Over Ethernet (does not accept AC power).'

So in theory you could have it powered by a switch like mine (or a POE injector), then plug your wifi AP in to it too. You would need to do a bit of research though to make sure it can power the wifi AP. I personally would still prefer power in my loft.
 
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