Tabletop Warhammer?

For plastics it's either fairy power spray or dettol for me. Brake fluid works on metals but melts plastics. I find dettol needs a little less work than power spray but you can't rinse the paint off in water. It needs to be fully clean before water touches it or you get a sticky goop.
 
Brabbinho said:
Pretty easily. I took some scrubbing on a 15yr old Leman Russ, but it's not bad
Click to expand...

ShadowMan said:
For plastics it's either fairy power spray or dettol for me. Brake fluid works on metals but melts plastics. I find dettol needs a little less work than power spray but you can't rinse the paint off in water. It needs to be fully clean before water touches it or you get a sticky goop.
Click to expand...

Cheers for the advice :)
 
Although I don't play this game, I do find the lore very interesting!

I'm reading through the Horus Heresy at the moment, here, and I think it's an amazing story (even if I don't know who anyone is)!
 
Shamikebab said:
There is nothing wrong with GW paints really, like all ranges there are some colours better than others. Otherwise why do so many top painters still use them?
Click to expand...

Because they are easily available for most people. And it takes a little time that pros probably don't have to tweak using a new paint system and as most commisions seem to be GW models, they would have to spend time using conversion charts.

I use GW foundation paints and washes and silver, but everything else Vallejo. To me they are (90% of the time)better, to others they are not. GW spray paints are absoutely abysmal compared to say Halfords primer which costs 40% less and has much better coverage and goes much further - if you remember to spray from a further distance to avoid sending models flying :D
 
40k 6th edition rule book no longer availabel for purchase (hard back), could we be on the verge of 7th? will they fix the rules so whenever I go to play a game im not against nothing but MC's. I doubt it :(
 
Been reading the rumours about that on Dakka, speculation that it will just be 6.5 with a few changes and Escalation/Stronghold rolled in.

Also a rumour of a new starter set with BA and Orks, but some saying no full mini rulebook in it.

My guess is that either way, they are not going to "fix" the rules so that we don't have 2++ re-rollables or spammed riptides etc.
 
didn't rick priestly have a kick starter for a new game system last year?

but yeah GW need to get some of their old veterans back in and give us rules that make us want to play, OMG they might see an increase in model sales if people actually enjoyed playing the game :O

What is fantasy like at the moment, are the rules good or horribly broken like 40k?
 
Trouble is that games are only worth playing if you have people to play against. I'm personally not very interested in playing strangers, so 40k is my only real choice as it's the only thing my friends and the school club I run play.

So it's 40k or bust for me. I'm surprised the community haven't come up with a decent ruleset which either sorts out all the issues or rips up the rulebook and starts again already. Or maybe they have and I just haven't heard about it?
 
Can anyone give me their opinion on this airbrush and compressor, please?

Neo for Iwata CN gravity feed airbrush - £55
Here

Iwata Studio Series Silver Jet compressor - £145
Here

I have no airbrushing experience but fancy a go doing some 40k vehicles and don't want to splash out too much to begin with...

Also, a few pointers on the best paints for these things and/or how to prep them; do they need thinning prior to use and if so, with what and how much? Ta
 
Last edited:
chriscubed said:
So it's 40k or bust for me. I'm surprised the community haven't come up with a decent ruleset which either sorts out all the issues or rips up the rulebook and starts again already. Or maybe they have and I just haven't heard about it?
Click to expand...

There are a few out there on DakkaDakka and the like.

I love the lore (even though the lack of any kind of movement is frustrating) and they still make some great models but the rules are basically at the worst state they've ever been. I'd love to try something else if there were some good modules on Vassal for them (or games like Infinity would remotely work over Vassal :()
 
If you use standard paints like Citadel, Vallejo Game/Model Color, P3, Reaper etc. then yes, you will need to thin them before you can put them through the airbrush. There are different things you can use, all of which have different results. Personally, I use Liquitex Airbrush Medium for the job, but you can also use thinning solutions available from Vallejo, or even just water. The alternative is to buy paints intended to be used as they are without thinning, such as Vallejo Model Air and Badger Minitaire, although you will find your choice of colours much more limited.

In terms of equipment, I use the compressor from an £80 airbrushing kit on eBay, which works rather well. The one you've got there only goes from 0-18psi, which is a bit on the low side. I would suggest looking for something that can do 0-30, and if you can get one with a tank then it would be a slightly better option as you don't have to have the compressor running constantly and you get a more consistent airflow.

This is pretty much what I started out with, then shortly after I got a Harder & Steenbeck Evolution Silverline brush with 0.2mm and 0.4mm needle/nozzle kits, which pretty much covers everything I have wanted to do so far. I would definitely consider the above compressor, as it would be more suited to the kind of work you would be doing with models (some paints and primers really need a higher pressure to get working properly).

I think that may be the first significant contribution I've made to this thread in the best part of a year. :o
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom