Tabletop Warhammer?

[Shamikebab]

Shamikebab is possibly the best painter here, or at least active, so I'd wait for him to say anything before you buy anything but I tend to paint, and the GW guy in the local shop advised, to have 3 colours for each colour you want to paint. A base, a highlight and an extra highlight. With that you can do your 3 colours or go up to 5 quite easily (mix between).

I'd go blue 4 as your base coat, mix blue 3 with blue 4, then blue 3 for highlights. Maybe Marine 2 for highlights.

As for golds, this company is releasing their golds in a months time or so .. but you could Games Workshop for them, so base in Bathasar gold, shade with Agrax Earth Shade, Highlight with Ghennas Gold then final highlight with auric armour. Could even then go for runefang steel after that.

I'm flattered but that is definitely not true

I generally don't like giving advice on specific colours, I find it is much better just to experiment and find out what works. The 'GW way' is to use a base tone, shade with a wash then layer on highlights. This is because they can sell 3/4 paints for each bit of model you paint. It's far from the only way to paint though. The danger in picking a dark, mid and light colour for an area is that the tone of the three colours does not match so you end up with an unbelievable scheme.

If I wanted to replicate that paintjob using the War Colour paints (which I've not tried myself yet but have heard good things) I would base the mini with Blue 5. Use Blue 5 with a little black and a dark red to deepen the shadows (a little red mixed into the blue will give much richer and more believable shadows) Then edge highlight with the base mixed with increasing amounts of white.

For golds I really recommend the Scale 75 metallic sets, they're excellent quality. I do use a few GW metallics on occasion, Balthasar Gold is a really nice base colour for gold. I've not used Auric Gold (I still have a pot of the last range to go through) but you could use that to highlight. Purple or red (or both) glazes into the shadows will help increase the contrast and tie it in with the shadows of the blue.

 

[Kobi]

Ah ok, i did think that. Wonder if i should buy some cheap ebay models and practice on them, finding out what works and what doesn't. I'm not saying its a competition against my mate, well not officially. But deep down we both want to have the best looking one. He's got at least some experience and a brother to get tips off of.

In other news, dad said the air brush is easily cleaned so i'll get primer for that.

You've not heard the last of me!

 

[Tummy]

Sham's painting is utterly fantastic, but there are several on here who are also excellent painters (puts me to shame, I will put up pictures when I've actually finished models I promise). Sham's advice is excellent incredibly helpful .

Also; the method of painting a 'base', then a highlight, then a wash then a further highlight is also an easy money maker (as mentioned) for Games Workshop, but it's also a good 'basic' building of technical painting.

In reply to your answer about Golden Demon, that's farcical, how could a company so big be ran at certain levels so poorly?!

Staggering. I actually, now I'm older, see such missed opportunities and misplaced focus at Games Workshop.

My local 'Warhammer' shop is good though, smaller than it used to be, but the manager is fantastic. A lovely, helpful bloke.

 

[Tummy]

Honestly, Sham's 'attempt' at gold painting similar to the Painting Buddah (spelling) video was just mind blowing, as was that video.

I've never, ever, 'got' gold right but god that gold Sham painted was incredible.

 

[Shamikebab]

Cheers Tummy

You can put 90% of GW's questionable decisions down to one thing, everything is about selling models. You can bet that a Golden Demon entirely for tanks was motivated by the number of very expensive Forge World tank kits they want to promote. Even their game rules are written with sales in mind. In the past they have alternated what models are good each codex so that people have to change their armies. Take the last Eldar codex, Wave Serpents were almost required in every Eldar army....Wave Serpents that they also made a GW store exclusive item at the same time. They're panicking because their sales keep falling. They have a new guy in charge now so we'll see if things will change.

 

[Kobi]

Well, stage one done. Bought some vallejo black primer and some Vallejo air thinners too. Just to cover all bases really. Paint scheme will deffo be Night Lords.

 

[gradyhawks]

Sham's painting is utterly fantastic, but there are several on here who are also excellent painters

Totally agree on both parts... and on the third, I am totally to shame against them, going to take a long time for me to catch up!

Wondering if anyone has any tips for staying in the lines? I am having to repaint 3 or 4 times over the course of a model and after shades and such it is never the same colour. How can I have it so it looks better where two colours meet? I've tried shading, but you can still see that its not a good job... practise?

Cheers,

 

[Shamikebab]

Just take your time, find a comfortable painting position where you can hold the model and brac your hands against each other to reduce shaking. Also make sure your paintbrushes have a good tip before painting with them.

 

[gradyhawks]

Just take your time, find a comfortable painting position where you can hold the model and brac your hands against each other to reduce shaking. Also make sure your paintbrushes have a good tip before painting with them.

Actually, need an opinion on my brushes... I bought a #2 and a #00 "Winsor & Newton Series 7 Kolinsky" .. now when i got them they tips were off at the top slightly and I have had, since getting them a week ago, around 4 or so hairs that have come away from the main brush when they are dry. I've looked after them and not got any paint in the metal part... I'll post some pictures when I am home, but they don't seem to be as "pointy" as the website picture.

 

[clockwork.satan]

That looks brilliant! Especially the face mask on the left.

Wow, that's outstanding! I've not played or done anything WH40K for ages now other than read the odd Black Library book, but I always had a soft spot for the space elves... Uh, Eldar.

 

[JHeaton]

For those who have some of the new AoS minis, what's the quality like? Kinda fancy painting a couple myself, though I'm not so keen on the colour schemes GW came up with (mainly looking at the Space Mar-...sorry, Stormcast ones), so I would have to figure out an alternative.

Aside from that, I finally got round to pulling all of my stuff out of storage and wow, I have a lot of stuff still to go, so this will all be done first anyway:

10 Dire Avengers
5 Wraithguard
6 vintage Swooping Hawks
Farseer and 3 warlocks
Bonesinger (this guy)
8 Guardians and weapon platform
Wraithknight
Crimson Hunter/Hemlock Wraithfighter (haven't decided which yet)
5 Rangers
Vintage Tactical Squad
Previous edition Tactical Squad
Vintage Devastator Squad
Vintage Assault Squad
6 Tyrannic War Veterans
Honour Guard Champion and Standard Bearer
Vintage Ultramarines Captain (needs a really good strip and repaint)
Necromunda Escher Gang (something like 15 models)

Blimey.

Kinda thinking I'd just airbrush them all, but my regular brushwork really needs a lot of work and this would be a good chance to practice that. Seems like someone has chucked my wet palette though.

 

[gradyhawks]

For those who have some of the new AoS minis, what's the quality like? Kinda fancy painting a couple myself, though I'm not so keen on the colour schemes GW came up with (mainly looking at the Space Mar-...sorry, Stormcast ones), so I would have to figure out an alternative.

The models are really well made and are great sculpts, even if you don't like the style, the detail in them is fantastic. Also very easy to paint compared to other units. I guess this is GWs idea, keep maries and sigmarines easy to paint as an easier way into the hobby.

I've gone for a Silver, Gold and Blue scheme. THe gold was just too much all as one.

 

[Mockingbird]

Wondering if anyone has any tips for staying in the lines? I am having to repaint 3 or 4 times over the course of a model and after shades and such it is never the same colour. How can I have it so it looks better where two colours meet? I've tried shading, but you can still see that its not a good job... practise?

I've taken to hot-gluing minins to the top of an old paint pot or large cork - make keeping a steady hand SO MUCH easier than when I used to hold by the base.

If you do find the line between two beigbouring bits is a tiny bit rough, one option os to run a very fine line of watered black wash between them - gives a different look, almost cartoony with the separating lines, but can look great and hides a multitude of sins.

Another thing is to paint inside outwards - paint the deepest recesses first (e.g. faces, innermost layer of clothes) - that way if you spill over you can just over-paint it on the next layer, and you are less likely to accidentally get stuff on the more protected inner layers later.

Finally, thinning paints a bit can make for less harsh transitions between 'mid' and 'shade' on one surface.

 

[ShadowMan]

Off to WHW on Sunday for a few games with some friends. After that I have decided to thin out the collection of Tau I have. Over 8k points and the biggest games we play are 2k so just no need to keep them.

Anyone have thoughts on prices at the moment? How are the markets? Everything is painted to a good standard and won 2 awards for Best Army @ WHW. Can't decide between listing models individually or trying to bundle it off as a working army.

I'll be keeping a lot of the Forgeworld stuff and enough to leave me a workable force.

 

[gradyhawks]

Off to WHW on Sunday for a few games with some friends. After that I have decided to thin out the collection of Tau I have. Over 8k points and the biggest games we play are 2k so just no need to keep them.

Anyone have thoughts on prices at the moment? How are the markets? Everything is painted to a good standard and won 2 awards for Best Army @ WHW. Can't decide between listing models individually or trying to bundle it off as a working army.

I'll be keeping a lot of the Forgeworld stuff and enough to leave me a workable force.

Don't list it as an entire army, you won't get the cash it deserves or you will set a reserve on it that will turn people off. My advice would be to sell them in squads or "boxes", so 3 broadsides, 10 fire warriors, 20 kroot. if it is painted well, pictures please (!), it will sell for more or less what you paid for it. Even though they are not, stick the words "Pro Painted" in the title when you sell it ... it just attracts more people to it. Some people have actually listed pro painted stuff, most of the times "pro painted" on eBay just means a base, a highlight and a wash...

Another tip, make a small light box and take the pictures with a decent camera with a white background. Half of my dads business profits come from taking poorly taken picture items off ebay, polishing them up and selling them back on with a proper camera set up. Ends up more than doubling his money each time.

Good luck!

 

[ShadowMan]

I won't be using the phrase pro painted as despite being paid to paint models I am not a pro and merely a hobbyist.

I'll go through my cabinets tonight and see if I can box up items into smaller batches and how it works out.

Example of my XV-109..



There are more in the album if you click the pic. I have actually bought a lightbox and have a queue of stuff that needs pics retaking.

 

[gradyhawks]

Well good on you for not doing the "pro painted" title, just don't want it getting drowned in all the other "pro painted" stuff out there.

Riptide looks good to me! Do like the weapon glow. Your entire army painted this way?

 

[ShadowMan]

Thanks. Yes the entire army is painted and based to match. Kept the theme simple to make it easier to match over time.

Just added up the RRP of my Tau and cried at little when it cross over £2k... So much money unused lol.

 

[gradyhawks]

Thanks. Yes the entire army is painted and based to match. Kept the theme simple to make it easier to match over time.

Just added up the RRP of my Tau and cried at little when it cross over £2k... So much money unused lol.

Well if the entire thing is the same, might be worth adding a little "fluff" to the description. Just might make other Tau players feel that adding a small regiment of "SHADOWMAN TAU SEPT" to their armies is a good thing to do. Or they might just see it as a "Time to get out the basecoat brush". Also adding a link that states that you are open to offers for the entire army.

 

[Brabbinho]

To be fair with that standard of painting you should be looking for at least retail prices when you sell.