Tabletop Warhammer?

gradyhawks said:
@ Spuddy - As for colours, its as Mockingbird says, you can paint them however you like. GamesWork shop do paints, but they are £2.50 a pot, http://www.warcolours.com go for £1 a pot and they ahve them in dropper bottles as well which make things slightly easier.

In terms of Eldar starting forces, I would get the Codex first and read it all and see where you want to go with it. There are various ways of playing (jetbikes, foot armies, wraith bone armies etc) so you need to decide what looks the best for you.

EDIT: If you have the urge to "I really want to buy something now!" then get 2 x 5 man Dire Avengers, 2 Wave Serpents and a HQ of your choice (Maybe a Jetbike HQ).

Dire Avengers are your top teir "Troop Choice", have a better save, better weapons and better stat lines than the Guardians. Giving them each a Wave Serpent means they get to where they need to go and the Wave Serpent is no slouch either, has a lot of fire power. The HQ on a jetbike means they can jump around all over the place.

- I don't actually play 40k though... I just watch batreps and paint stuff. Get the codex first and read it through.
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I've got the codex coming, 6th edition. Presumed it was the latest one. Did have it in my head to have it painted a nice purply colour but now after seeing the colours on that war colours website Im thinking of emerald 2 as the final colour. I have no idea how to paint though and which colours I'll need to use to get that as my final colour regarding base paint coats and such like.

I didn't know that there were different armies/styles to play - e.g. jet bikes, foot armies and wraith bone armies.

All I know is that I NEED this in my army, so whatever fits in with it basically.

http://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Eldar-Wraithknight
 
@ Werewolf - Not only are they nice to look at, ingame they are utter demons in-game as well.

@ Spuddy - Most things fit in with a Wraith Knight, since its got a lot of fire power, can move all over the place and is tough as nails.

It all depends how you want to play OR who you are going to play against. Will it be a local club you will be playing at? Or is this all TBC?
 
Getting a bit bored of chaos especially with the somewhat under whelming codex, I really want to start a new army and i'm thinking possibly Tau.

Does anyone have recommendations of what should go into a 1250pts army?
 
gradyhawks said:
@ Werewolf - Not only are they nice to look at, ingame they are utter demons in-game as well.

@ Spuddy - Most things fit in with a Wraith Knight, since its got a lot of fire power, can move all over the place and is tough as nails.

It all depends how you want to play OR who you are going to play against. Will it be a local club you will be playing at? Or is this all TBC?
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I'll probably be popping in to the local games workshop to play, might try and see if there's a club/society at uni as well though when I go back in September /October.

I'm not sure of the different ways to play tbh?
 
@ lordhughes - Stick a riptide in there and you are 1/2 way there! Honestly though, not quite sure on Tau ... BUT I would hold off for at least a month, Tau is rumored to have a replacement in Codex come September.

@ Spuddy - As a rough outline, there are either Jetbike armies which have lots of jetbikes and such to shoot and then take cover, infantry focused armies which uses wave serpents and lots of aspect infantry to get around, wraith armies which use wraithguard mainly to get the job done and then there is a mix of all of them.

What is most competitive currently are the Jetbike armies as they have resilient, fast and pack one hell of a punch when equipped with scatter lasers. A min. squad of 3 costs 81pts and can shoot out 12 strength 6 out to 36". To that effect, here is a rough 750 point army that should be able to compete with everything else.

HQ
Farseer Skyrunner 135pts
- Singing Spear
- Spirit Stone

Troops
5 Windriders with Scatter Lasers 135pts
4 Windriders with Scatter Lasers 108pts

Elites
5 Fire Dragons 230pts
- Wave Serpent with Shuriken Cannon Transport

Fast Attack
1 Crimson Hunter with Bright Lances 140pts

Total: 748pts

Not many bodies at all, but you're packing 36 Strength 6 shots with your jetbikes alone to deal with troops. The fire dragons will eat a tank or two if you face heavy armour. The Crimon Hunter is there to deal with air and heavy armored targets. Your farseer with the spirit stone makes it easier to cast spells.

To upgrade it to 1250 points and to include your Wraith Knight I would add:

5 Dire Avengers 185pts
- Wave Serpent with Shuriken Cannon

1 Wraith Knight 310pts
- Ghostglaive and Scattershield
- 1 Scatter Laster

The dire avengers give you more objective power with the Wraith Knight wrecking face with its D strength sword. The scatter shield gives you a 5++ invulnerable save.

Now, if you don't fancy having all those bikes, simply swap them for dire avengers and serpents. You could also replace the fire dragons with wraithgaurd and there D-Scythes in a wave serpent.

Again, I don't actually play... so do some more reading for your army first. This is all theoryhammer.

Where abouts do you go to University?
 
It's been a year or so since I took out my Tau, but from memory Riptides were good, as is the Hammerhead BUT the hammerhead is surprisingly easy to get killed (it never seemed to last long in my games).

My typical force included 3-6 crisis suits equipped largely depending on what I knew I'd be facing (flamers are pretty handy if there is any chance they'll be assaulted, and burst cannons can get most mid tanks in the rear), a couple of squads of warriors and a bunch of drones*.

However whilst I'd be annoyed if there was a new codex out soon (I think the current one is less than three years old), it will hopefully help sort out some of the issues with the tau (IIRC a lot of tau stuff is/was over priced in points compared to a lot of other forces).


*Never under estimate gun drones, for their points values they are pretty fast, have half decent guns (STR 5/ AP5 so a team of gun drones can be a nice annoyance especially against guard tanks), and are actually better in close combat than the normal tau.
 
gradyhawks said:
Troops
5 Windriders with Scatter Lasers 135pts
4 Windriders with Scatter Lasers 108pts
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Confused by this bit as they appear to be the same thing ha? Thanks for all the info though, really loving the suggestions having just checked them out on GW website! Dire Avengers look amazing, doubt they'll look that good after I've painted them however :D

By serpent do you mean the Wave Serpent fast support unit?

Im at Hull Uni, checked the website and theres no mention of an official Warhammer club. Will have a good scout around though at the freshers fair.
 
Spuddy said:
Confused by this bit as they appear to be the same thing ha? Thanks for all the info though, really loving the suggestions having just checked them out on GW website! Dire Avengers look amazing, doubt they'll look that good after I've painted them however :D

By serpent do you mean the Wave Serpent fast support unit?

Im at Hull Uni, checked the website and theres no mention of an official Warhammer club. Will have a good scout around though at the freshers fair.
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Ah, this:

Troops
5 Windriders with Scatter Lasers 135pts
4 Windriders with Scatter Lasers 108pts

Means 1 squad of 5 wind riders and another squad of 4 wind riders. Just filled them to what the points allowed.

Yes as in Wave Serpent, it's only a fast attack choice if taken on its own. Most troop and elite choices state that you can take a Wave Serpent as a dedicated transport, that's what you are doing with the Dire Avengers.

Should be something at Uni, if not there will be at least 1 or two local gaming clubs that play it as well as the local GW store.
 
Ahh right thank you, that makes more sense! Gonna keep my eye on eBay for some cheap models to get me started. How do I remove their paint safely as I presume painting over the second hand models will a) be a pain in the posterior and b) reduce definition/detail of the model due to all the layers.
 
Spuddy said:
Ahh right thank you, that makes more sense! Gonna keep my eye on eBay for some cheap models to get me started. How do I remove their paint safely as I presume painting over the second hand models will a) be a pain in the posterior and b) reduce definition/detail of the model due to all the layers.
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I've used fairy power spray in the past, it'll fully strip metal models down to bare metal and it'll take plastic back to the undercoat, just plop the model/s in and leave for a day and then gently scrub with a soft old toothbrush to remove the loosened paint.
 
vincent1989 said:
I've used fairy power spray in the past, it'll fully strip metal models down to bare metal and it'll take plastic back to the undercoat, just plop the model/s in and leave for a day and then gently scrub with a soft old toothbrush to remove the loosened paint.
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+1 to power spray. it takes a little work with the tooth brush but its worth it. Use a tooth pick as well to get into the small parts.

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Thanks guys, glad you added that image because my next question was gonna be, "what is fairy power spray?" Haha. I'll keep a lookout next time I go shopping. Off to eBay I go!
 
For stripping paint we've recently converted to Biostrip (a friend who is a superb painter recommended it as he got a sample and was impressed).

Far far nicer to work with than powerspray, you basically paint a thick layer of it on, and then leave it for half an hour or so.

It's actually designed as a safe paint stripper for household paints of all kinds.
IIRC you can buy a 500ml tub for about a fiver or a five litre container for about £25, we bought two of the five litre containers (about £45 delivered) after my brother tried a bit of it on some tile, and gloss paint he wanted removed, the theory being that as we needed paint stripper for decorating we'd get some that would do the models as well*.



*moving modelling supplies onto the decorating budgets :p
 
Werewolf said:
For stripping paint we've recently converted to Biostrip.

Far far nicer to work with than powerspray, you basically paint a thick layer of it on, and then leave it for half an hour or so.

It's actually designed as a safe paint stripper for household paints of all kinds.
IIRC you can buy a 500ml tub for about a fiver or a five litre container for about £25, we bought two of the five litre containers (about £45 delivered) after my brother tried a bit of it on some tile, and gloss paint he wanted removed, the theory being that as we needed paint stripper for decorating we'd get some that would do the models as well.
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Is that with BioStrip 20 or 42?
 
Younger brother reckons it's the best stuff he's used, it's also much much nicer to work with.

Nikumba apparently it's the 20 version.
 
Will get some then, been using some Liberators to practise on and now after their third coating they are loosing detail.

Any other tips to help with getting paint off?
 
Erm I think he uses a toothbrush to help clean it up, and sometimes a toothpick.

I've not really stripped that many models as I'm a slow painter and tend not to buy used models on ebay, younger brother tends to be the one that strips them partly because he's always painting test models (I think he's got a rhino and wave serpent that have been painted about a dozen times each) and had to buy some stuff off ebay when failcast came in (he wanted some models that had gone to resin only).
 
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