Tabletop Warhammer?

Another tip for dry brushing, make sure the brush is dry before you start... seems silly but if you've just washed your brush and go to do some dry brushing, you'll get a crap finish if there is still some water left in your brush.

But between drybrushing and washes you can get a really easy tabletop standard!
 
gradyhawks said:
Another tip for dry brushing, make sure the brush is dry before you start... seems silly but if you've just washed your brush and go to do some dry brushing, you'll get a crap finish if there is still some water left in your brush.

But between drybrushing and washes you can get a really easy tabletop standard!
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I'd whack what I have on the tabletop and be happy enough but yeah, still want to improve. Just irritating I have a very, very busy week at work and won't get a chance to pick up the paint. Will just finish the base on both and shade ready for the rest but then it's my daughter's birthday at the weekend so probably won't get a chance then either :(

What impact does a glaze have on a model? It makes out although it's useful to use post layering to smooth the layers. Any truth to that if they just want you to buy more paints?
 
Nitefly said:
Speaking of moderation, I couldn’t decide whether I wanted my space wolf dreadnaught to be:

Murderfang
Bjorn the Felhanded
Blizzard shield

So I bought three for one of each.

Maybe I’ll get round to them this year?

:o :o :o
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This year?

I've been saying that for models for ages, although "This decade" may be more accurate ;) (I've got the last 3 or 4 40k box releases to paint, a Fantasy Empire and Skaven army, loads of Tau and marines).

I've just received my "start collecting" Tzeench and Khorne (which reminds me I have a FW daemon prince and two Brass Scorpions to do) as well, so I'm going to try and get on with them for my yearly weekend of fun and (war) games :)


Woogie, I tend to use a mix of Vallejo model/game air and GW paints, although for my screamers of Tzeench I am considering some of the new colour change technical paints (they're sort of iridescent).
I'll often do the basecoat/colour as an airbrush one especially for horde type armies as it's really fast to do.
I largely stopped using Vallejo game colour as I found they tended to clump in the pots (not dry out, but separate and clump).
 
Werewolf said:
This year?

I've been saying that for models for ages, although "This decade" may be more accurate ;) (I've got the last 3 or 4 40k box releases to paint, a Fantasy Empire and Skaven army, loads of Tau and marines).

I've just received my "start collecting" Tzeench and Khorne (which reminds me I have a FW daemon prince and two Brass Scorpions to do) as well, so I'm going to try and get on with them for my yearly weekend of fun and (war) games :)


Woogie, I tend to use a mix of Vallejo model/game air and GW paints, although for my screamers of Tzeench I am considering some of the new colour change technical paints (they're sort of iridescent).
I'll often do the basecoat/colour as an airbrush one especially for horde type armies as it's really fast to do.
I largely stopped using Vallejo game colour as I found they tended to clump in the pots (not dry out, but separate and clump).
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You are probably right :D

Doing decorating this weekend so painting and modelling is a write-off again... :(

Found a local gaming club that looks quite fun so hope to get stuck in early this year :)

My 2000 pt army looks so good on paper... wonder if it’ll be naff in reality :D
 
Werewolf said:
Woogie, I tend to use a mix of Vallejo model/game air and GW paints, although for my screamers of Tzeench I am considering some of the new colour change technical paints (they're sort of iridescent).
I'll often do the basecoat/colour as an airbrush one especially for horde type armies as it's really fast to do.
I largely stopped using Vallejo game colour as I found they tended to clump in the pots (not dry out, but separate and clump).
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Interesting. Thanks Werewolf. I will wait for a bit before ordering something as I am about to move house and my wife will Lynch me.
 
I ordered the project paint set, which seemed good ‘value’ to get started and then topped up (quite substantially / overkill) with specific paints. The case is actually really handy for putting them away tidily. It’s far too much for what I use it for (so in many ways a silly purchase) but I’m many ways I’m quite glad to have all colours in various shades for ad mech, space wolves, Eldar and harlequins (the latter two of which ms. Nitefly is painting).

iQxkhFo.jpg

Not cheap mind. Again, terrible reckless spending! :o
 
Done some work on Archaon last night. The wings are ginormous and normally put me off the idea of picking him up! This must be almost two hours of work just blocking in the base coat on his wings, and it still needs the edging doing on one side! :(

KmFOrCX.jpg

czdKpUg.png
 
Large sections like that are the main reason I use an airbrush now although I am trying to get better with it to do smaller and smaller sections.

Just painted up a set of relic (the boardgame) busts for a friend to copy the character cards. Also working on my IronJawz, Tau and a friends Imp Guard. Painting queue is getting bigger but making progress.

I'll post a pic later of some finished ones as need to get out the lightbox. Not happy with how they look when just iPhone photo on a dirty cutting mat!
 
Managed to get into the games workshop last night on the way back and picked up some dry paint and a glaze, hopefully have a chance Sunday to work on my next marines, made no progress this week!
 
I have FINALLY finished the base colours on my Predator, well just the main body of the tank still have the turret and sponson weapons to do but those shouldn't take to long.

Warptsone glow isn't a nice colour to use IMO, it takes multiple coats to get a nice even layer as it goes on so thin. Painting things like tanks is taking me forever to get a nice solid base colour down and the predator is the biggest one I've done so far, the Spartan and Fire Raptor are going to be interesting.....
 
I'm not massively sold on the Dry technical paints. Sure they work, but it's a bit like reinventing the wheel to me.

@Spuj what was your base/primer colour?

Done some more work on Archaon last night, thin wash over the wing membranes to add some depth. Now that I've done most the hard work on the wings, I'm starting to enjoy painting this model a lot more.
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MoNkeE said:
I'm not massively sold on the Dry technical paints. Sure they work, but it's a bit like reinventing the wheel to me.

@Spuj what was your base/primer colour?

Done some more work on Archaon last night, thin wash over the wing membranes to add some depth. Now that I've done most the hard work on the wings, I'm starting to enjoy painting this model a lot more.
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The wings are coming on nicely, he is a very cool model. I really like the blend you've done on the tail with the reds and oranges, that looks really nice.

I've used Chaos Black, Castellan Green and a Halfords Grey primer all from spray cans and it is the same over all 3 from my experience.
 
Spuj said:
I have FINALLY finished the base colours on my Predator, well just the main body of the tank still have the turret and sponson weapons to do but those shouldn't take to long.

Warptsone glow isn't a nice colour to use IMO, it takes multiple coats to get a nice even layer as it goes on so thin. Painting things like tanks is taking me forever to get a nice solid base colour down and the predator is the biggest one I've done so far, the Spartan and Fire Raptor are going to be interesting.....
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It sounds unfortunately like a lot of the yellows and the old fiery orange (just doing the sept markings on my Tau annoyed me with that).

Depending on how much you paint and how much spare cash you have something like a Harder and Steenbeck Ultra (around £60) and cheap tanked compressor (from around £60 for a cheap chinese one or keep your eyes on ebay and gumtree) may save you a lot of time and heartache when doing vehicles.
 
Werewolf said:
Depending on how much you paint and how much spare cash you have something like a Harder and Steenbeck Ultra (around £60) and cheap tanked compressor (from around £60 for a cheap chinese one or keep your eyes on ebay and gumtree) may save you a lot of time and heartache when doing vehicles.
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The ultra is a great airbrush I can recommend it. Also recommend the relatively cheap ebay compressors with tanks, add a water trap and these are great. I tried 3 cheapo ebay airbrushes before the h&s ultra, the cheapo ones are definitely a false economy.

If possible get the ultra 2in1 for an extra needle set. Only negative, and this isn't a massive gripe considering the cost, is the nozzle design is such that its a pain to clean the needle tip mid paint job. You cant take the needle protection part off (mid paint job) and the design has annoying gaps in it so its almost impossible to cover the end and use air pressure to 'back wash' any blockages. This just lt means you need more regular breaks to clean it. I tend to use an old brush, wet, to clean the tip mid paint job, and blowing through plain water regularly helps.

Considering how much the hobby costs overall, a good basic airbrush set up is a good investment, even if used only for priming and bascoats
 
Werewolf said:
It sounds unfortunately like a lot of the yellows and the old fiery orange (just doing the sept markings on my Tau annoyed me with that).

Depending on how much you paint and how much spare cash you have something like a Harder and Steenbeck Ultra (around £60) and cheap tanked compressor (from around £60 for a cheap chinese one or keep your eyes on ebay and gumtree) may save you a lot of time and heartache when doing vehicles.
Click to expand...

uk_unbeliever said:
The ultra is a great airbrush I can recommend it. Also recommend the relatively cheap ebay compressors with tanks, add a water trap and these are great. I tried 3 cheapo ebay airbrushes before the h&s ultra, the cheapo ones are definitely a false economy.

If possible get the ultra 2in1 for an extra needle set. Only negative, and this isn't a massive gripe considering the cost, is the nozzle design is such that its a pain to clean the needle tip mid paint job. You cant take the needle protection part off (mid paint job) and the design has annoying gaps in it so its almost impossible to cover the end and use air pressure to 'back wash' any blockages. This just lt means you need more regular breaks to clean it. I tend to use an old brush, wet, to clean the tip mid paint job, and blowing through plain water regularly helps.

Considering how much the hobby costs overall, a good basic airbrush set up is a good investment, even if used only for priming and bascoats
Click to expand...

I've been toying with the idea for a little while of a basic airbrush setup if only to get the basecoat of green down as it would honestly save me a monumental amount of time, especially on the bigger models. The thought of hand painting the basecoat green on Land raiders and bigger vehicles and flyers isn't something I'm looking forward to, although once the green is down I'm more than happy to do the rest by brush.

Thank you both for the recommendations, definitely something I'm going to look in to and sounds like a really good place to start.
 
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