Tabletop Warhammer?
- Thread starter Arcimbaldo
- Start date
Soldato
Practice on your death guard then give him a go yourself. Death guard are really forgiving as they are "dirty" so a bit of a slip can be easily covered
Soldato
I will hopefully finish my spectral dragon and converted mage rider tonight, just need to do the base and the rider so determined to plough on and finish.
Commissario
I'm hoping to get out to garage tonight or tomorrow to do a load of undercoating (22FW strike team guys, 10 FW breachers, various drones and a riptide), I've spent the last week running around after extended family so all I've managed to do is glue the arms on the FW Strike team, and put all the firewarriors onto magnetised bases.
The magnets are because 3x2mm n48 (or better) will hold them to a "paper metal" sheet in a 4l really useful box for storage and transport, it'll also hold them to a strip of steel sheet that I use to assist with spraying
My stormsurge arrived this morning, nearly a week late but i'm not going to complain given I picked it up for £67 vs the 90rrp, I've been thinking I might call the crew Schwarz and K'opf
The magnets are because 3x2mm n48 (or better) will hold them to a "paper metal" sheet in a 4l really useful box for storage and transport, it'll also hold them to a strip of steel sheet that I use to assist with spraying
My stormsurge arrived this morning, nearly a week late but i'm not going to complain given I picked it up for £67 vs the 90rrp, I've been thinking I might call the crew Schwarz and K'opf
Soldato
I have wondered about magnetised bases.
I do have some little magnents but they are rediculously strong, I would be worried that they would rip off the bases, or stick to each other etc. I also thought about having a sheet of metal under a game mat for your game board, to make your entire game board magnetised, but you run in to problems once any terrain is included.
I have lots of metal minatures, so would be handy. I also thought about buying the little split shot type fishing weights that are made of lead, bash them down a bit and hot glue them under the bases just to weigh them down. Guess you'd have to be a little careful as those are made of pure plumbum (lead), so its pretty toxic. Quite a few of my metal minatures also contain lead though!
I do have some little magnents but they are rediculously strong, I would be worried that they would rip off the bases, or stick to each other etc. I also thought about having a sheet of metal under a game mat for your game board, to make your entire game board magnetised, but you run in to problems once any terrain is included.
I have lots of metal minatures, so would be handy. I also thought about buying the little split shot type fishing weights that are made of lead, bash them down a bit and hot glue them under the bases just to weigh them down. Guess you'd have to be a little careful as those are made of pure plumbum (lead), so its pretty toxic. Quite a few of my metal minatures also contain lead though!
Commissario
The n48-52 magnets I use* seem to be fine on the bases with a little bit of superglue control gel (one of my friends uses several in his Knight bases), I suspect you'd have to be very careful with putting them if the model is already on the base and avoid putting them in a box or whatever for a while (as I've noticed the bases seem to get a bit of an uneven white coating, which i suspect is the superglue outgassing, when i put them into a box soon after fitting the magnets (it normally seems to wipe off the bare plastic, I think it's basically doing what the police do for some fingerprints where they use superglue fumes to get the prints to show).
For most miniatures I've found a single 3mmx2mm disc magnet seems to work well with "paper metal" and extremely well with actual metal.
One tip I always give in regards to using magnets, is make sure you stick to the same orientation on them
Most obviously if you're doing interchangeable weapons, but also bases, that way you can use the magnets to stack spare bases and use any base to hold the magnets you're using for weapons (and to help make sure the magnet is flush in the weapon/option which is very handy for Tau drones**).
IIRC a couple of my friends tried things like metal washers and coins in the bases for metal miniatures, which can help with counterbalance, but you usually can't put enough weight into the base, although it can certainly help a bit.
*Spider Magnets on Ebay are my normal supplier as they have a good range, clearly marked and usually ship same/next working day from inside the UK.
**Most of my drones are magnetised as it makes it easier to store/transport them and the flying base pegs are so brittle they often break if you know the drone over anyway.
For most miniatures I've found a single 3mmx2mm disc magnet seems to work well with "paper metal" and extremely well with actual metal.
One tip I always give in regards to using magnets, is make sure you stick to the same orientation on them
Most obviously if you're doing interchangeable weapons, but also bases, that way you can use the magnets to stack spare bases and use any base to hold the magnets you're using for weapons (and to help make sure the magnet is flush in the weapon/option which is very handy for Tau drones**).
IIRC a couple of my friends tried things like metal washers and coins in the bases for metal miniatures, which can help with counterbalance, but you usually can't put enough weight into the base, although it can certainly help a bit.
*Spider Magnets on Ebay are my normal supplier as they have a good range, clearly marked and usually ship same/next working day from inside the UK.
**Most of my drones are magnetised as it makes it easier to store/transport them and the flying base pegs are so brittle they often break if you know the drone over anyway.
Soldato
Dragon finished with modified rider. It was a Knight of Shrouds but used a bell from the Grimghast Reapers and some green stuff to create the flame. The one thing missing from the photo which I forgot to do (but have since added later that evening) is the scabbard now has a sword hilt appearing from it.
Went for a spectral theme (the greenish colour) with the bones being "real" and being what binds the spirit to it. Pretty happy with it, not perfect but feel like my painting is getting better.
Soldato
Yea it's really bloody good man, even passes the super zoomed in photo test in most places, bet it looks great in person.
Managed to get some more painting done on commission for a friend of mine. I did a fully IG/AM army for him recently and he has asked to add some more firepower. Nothing over the top and mainly just getting colour onto models to make them look on on the table. Added some weathering and mud effects to keep it interested (did on the rest of the AM tanks too). Everything still WIP with details and crew to do to finish them off.
Only one of the fliers had an internal cockpit with pilots so had to get creative with the 2nd. Came out OK for now. Not sure how it will look once sealed.
Only one of the fliers had an internal cockpit with pilots so had to get creative with the 2nd. Came out OK for now. Not sure how it will look once sealed.
Soldato
Cheers, it looks good in person just a bit annoying seeing the odd grey spot on the picture I will catch but it's invisible to the naked eye.
@ShadowMan I think I'm making progress and pictures like that show me how far I still have to go
It's all about practice. Take your time and things improve slowly. Yours are looking good and its easy to criticise your own models, especially in photos.
The ones I did aren't actually that much work. Mainly airbrush work, Flory model washes and some metals with drybrushing. Its all about building layers.
The weathering is all Tamiya weathering kits and Forgeworld powders. Needs a good sealer but I love using powders as its easy to build texture and be subtle. I have done some oil runs using a GW wash but its very limited.
The ones I did aren't actually that much work. Mainly airbrush work, Flory model washes and some metals with drybrushing. Its all about building layers.
The weathering is all Tamiya weathering kits and Forgeworld powders. Needs a good sealer but I love using powders as its easy to build texture and be subtle. I have done some oil runs using a GW wash but its very limited.
Always good to see examples to aim towards and pick up some hints and tips. The weathering and scenery elements can truly make a model and make small imperfections in the paintwork almost vanish. I have a load of scenery stuff (gravel / sand / grass etc) from years ago and its been great using it to build up the bases for the models.
Soldato
I finished the last of my Stormcast Eternals last weekend, so this week I've started on my Blades of Khorne. The sheer number of Bloodreavers is a bit daunting, but I'm going to paint Shadespire warbands in-between batches!
Associate
- Joined
- 12 Oct 2008
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- 281
Can anybody point me towards good airbrushing tutorials, please?
Thank you.
Thank you.
Commissario
Harder & Steenbeck have a few you youtube (they also do an introduction DVD for a couple of pounds), my brother watches a lot of videos by buypained on youtube (I think it is).
I'm still at a fairly basic level with my airbrushing despite having had the kit for about 8 years now, mainly because I rarely get the time and energy to work on anything big enough to need anything more advanced (although once I start doing my Adeptus Titanicus, and Knights that'll probably change).
I'm still at a fairly basic level with my airbrushing despite having had the kit for about 8 years now, mainly because I rarely get the time and energy to work on anything big enough to need anything more advanced (although once I start doing my Adeptus Titanicus, and Knights that'll probably change).
Soldato
Half way through my last 3 Grey Knight paladins then I am done.
Well, I say that, I need to base all 35 models and paint the blades of the force weapons on, mmm, about 20 or so models, I didnt have the right paint colours before for those. That is going to be arduous.
Well, I say that, I need to base all 35 models and paint the blades of the force weapons on, mmm, about 20 or so models, I didnt have the right paint colours before for those. That is going to be arduous.
Check out Next Level Painting on youtube. His style is quite bright and fantasy ish and he prefixes every video with a huge plug for his subscription service but his tips can be quite good. Just get past the mannerisms and the americanisms...
Soldato
Anyone know when the new Ork's codex is due?
I read lots of romours about it being soon, or any day now?
I read lots of romours about it being soon, or any day now?
Soldato
It's just been formally announced but I didn't see s release date attached to it. Apart from the buggies it seems although there will be no models accompanying release which, if true, would be disappointing.
I believe pre-order will be this Saturday for release the following Saturday.
I was talking to my friend who is an Ork player the other day about this. Orks did get some nice new kits a couple of years ago however there are still a number of kits that could really do with updating. Agree that if there weren't some other kits it would be a bit disappointing. There were rumors of a new warboss (which might be the guy on the trike thinking about it) and Ghazgul model coming however kits like Tankbustas, Kommandos, lootas and the Deffkoptas could really do with updating amongst others.