Even the basic boys are a bit limited now, not as bad as the Khorne bezerker milking a cow pose but they are looking a little tired. If they don't drop with this release we'll almost certainly be waiting to a new edition which would probably prompt me to stay away from them.
Tabletop Warhammer?
- Thread starter Arcimbaldo
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Even the basic boys are a bit limited now, not as bad as the Khorne bezerker milking a cow pose but they are looking a little tired. If they don't drop with this release we'll almost certainly be waiting to a new edition which would probably prompt me to stay away from them.
That's true although I have a feeling they will leave those for as long as they can get away with but you never know. A few more customisable bits would be nice but GW seem to forget about troops in favour of the shinier toys.
Some of the older kits are terrible compared with the new ones. I've just been building my hexwraiths I've picked up and they are horrible when compared with the newer nighthaunt mounts.
Old Firewarrior sprues vs new ones are a good example of basically the same model but just having better moulds and a recut of the sprue making a huge difference.
I made up some of the new FW Strike/Breacher team models which are basically the old FW's with a second set of arms on the new sprues, and the difference is striking, even just the fact the arms are marked as A-H makes a big difference.
And completely new models are as you say often so much better to assemble than older kits - Although I have noticed since they moved to the CAD diagram instructions there have been some noticeable mistakes/problems with the instructions (the Skull cannon instructions are terrible in places*, and the Knight instructions have at least one or two instances where the parts are numbered wrong when you have a left and a right part).
On a totally different note, I bought our airbrush in and set it up in the spare room last night, I still need to do some tidying up and put down a put down some sheeting to protect the desk/floor in the event of spills but I should be able to push on with painting my riptide soon
I'm half considering buying a second Graphic Air extractor for the spare room, as we've got one in the garage but it's too big/hooked up to move easily (A3 front and full metal case) and the cheapy extractor we've got as a portable one is too small for larger models and I'm not convinced of it's extraction capacity and filter (the graphic air unit I'd trust to recirculate the air inside the room if needed, at least for airbrushing).
I'm also going to set up a really useful tower to hold the model parts during different stages of painting
*I had issues with it, and a friend who can assemble an army in a weekend had exactly the same issue and apparently only my warning about a bit further on saved him from having a second one.
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@Werewolf and Shadowman: Thank you. I will give those a try.
I forgot to say, one of the big things to remember with airbrushing is that the coats can be applied very thinly, so if you say put black in panel lines with the brush, then go over it with the next colour it can/wll show through as a shade (pre-shading), and with metallic paints if you use a gloss black under them it can make them much more effective
There are a few videos on Tested's youtube channel that whilst normally only very briefly touching on airbrushing have some interesting tips (there are a few that are much more airbrush orientated as well)
I tend to watch their videos almost at random as they have discussions and demos with all sorts of people including prop and model designers who all have slightly different ways of doing similar things which is handy for wargames, as some techniques work well on larger models and others on smaller ones or buildings vs men.
IIRC one where they are building and painting a rocket man has tips on metals and "burnt" metals (IE rocket exhausts/blow torches) and I just spotted this video which may or may not be of use
A general get started guide.
Whilst the metal tips are here
One of my friends has been popping round to use our airbrush gear for a while (every month or so), and his results are amazing, in the space of a day he can basically do most of the bulk painting on Knights now (including oil washes etc).
There are a few videos on Tested's youtube channel that whilst normally only very briefly touching on airbrushing have some interesting tips
(there are a few that are much more airbrush orientated as well)I tend to watch their videos almost at random as they have discussions and demos with all sorts of people including prop and model designers who all have slightly different ways of doing similar things which is handy for wargames, as some techniques work well on larger models and others on smaller ones or buildings vs men.
IIRC one where they are building and painting a rocket man has tips on metals and "burnt" metals (IE rocket exhausts/blow torches) and I just spotted this video which may or may not be of use
A general get started guide.
Whilst the metal tips are here
One of my friends has been popping round to use our airbrush gear for a while (every month or so), and his results are amazing, in the space of a day he can basically do most of the bulk painting on Knights now
(including oil washes etc).
Basically finished all my Grey Knights, I just need to base them all which I will do on the weekend/next week when I have some sand. Then I will post some pictures.
So below are my salvaged 2nd ed Tyranids, or what is left of them. Some of them need repairs/re-gluing. They definately all need repainting! I am going to re-build these guys, and buy some new ones to go in with them to build up a 2000 point army match play army.
Below: 10 Genestealers, 2 Hive Tyrants, 5 Tyranid Warriors, 2 (but enough to make 3) ripper swarms, 2 Biovores (with spore mines), 11 Hormogants (2 still in the packet), 18 Termagants, Lictor, Zoanthrope, and Carniex.
The Hormogants are an absolute nightmare as they are completely top heavy and basically impossible to make stand up, I will invest in some lead fishing weights I think. I will also rebase all of the square ones, technically the rules state the model can have the base it was supplied with, but I will get the round bases to the equivalent size the new models are supplied with. The Genestealers and Termagants are plastic, the rest are all metal.
So below are my salvaged 2nd ed Tyranids, or what is left of them. Some of them need repairs/re-gluing. They definately all need repainting! I am going to re-build these guys, and buy some new ones to go in with them to build up a 2000 point army match play army.
Below: 10 Genestealers, 2 Hive Tyrants, 5 Tyranid Warriors, 2 (but enough to make 3) ripper swarms, 2 Biovores (with spore mines), 11 Hormogants (2 still in the packet), 18 Termagants, Lictor, Zoanthrope, and Carniex.
The Hormogants are an absolute nightmare as they are completely top heavy and basically impossible to make stand up, I will invest in some lead fishing weights I think. I will also rebase all of the square ones, technically the rules state the model can have the base it was supplied with, but I will get the round bases to the equivalent size the new models are supplied with. The Genestealers and Termagants are plastic, the rest are all metal.
Thought I would share my good fortune.
Saw a 'warhammer tank' for sale on Facebook, bargin I hear you say? The description was that it was built wrong, missing parts and generally in a poor condition. The tank was an Imperial Guard Chimera... Challenge accepted! I saw in the back ground of the photo a box for imperial troops and asked the question "Does this sale include any troops?" And was told to come have a look because there were "some" troops.
On arriving and being shown what was for sale, I was not disapointed. Sale included a very sorry looking tank, that definatally needed a lot of love. Under the unused tank sprus were a whole bunch of Imperial Guard sprues. I didnt even look very hard at them, saw them and grabbed them (paid of course) and drove home like a mad man.
Upon opening the box and lifting the unloved tank and its unused sprues I found one complete sprue of 5 guards and about enough parts (still on sprues) to make another 10 maybe even 15 Guards men (Special weapons n' all!)
I thought about dumping the tank, but I cant. It needs love and its going to get it. I'll make a few parts and buy the ones I cant make, i.e. tank tracks. Its an old model tank (2003) so parts are a bit hard to come by which is why I'll have to be creative.
All this for £2. The seller looked at me like I was crazy for wanting it. Ha! Crazy alright, dang frigging oof me rocker.
The only trouble with this is that I have now even more things to paint. My Astra Millitaruim Kill Team was originaly going to consist of 5 Scions and a bunch of guards. I couldnt find guards on ebay that I could varifiy were not the easy to build ones, which, lets face it are usless for convertion. So I ended up buying another (again very cheap from facebook market) set of Scions. So now I have 10 Scions and about 20 guards. All for a 100 point Kill Team!
Saw a 'warhammer tank' for sale on Facebook, bargin I hear you say? The description was that it was built wrong, missing parts and generally in a poor condition. The tank was an Imperial Guard Chimera... Challenge accepted! I saw in the back ground of the photo a box for imperial troops and asked the question "Does this sale include any troops?" And was told to come have a look because there were "some" troops.
On arriving and being shown what was for sale, I was not disapointed. Sale included a very sorry looking tank, that definatally needed a lot of love. Under the unused tank sprus were a whole bunch of Imperial Guard sprues. I didnt even look very hard at them, saw them and grabbed them (paid of course) and drove home like a mad man.
Upon opening the box and lifting the unloved tank and its unused sprues I found one complete sprue of 5 guards and about enough parts (still on sprues) to make another 10 maybe even 15 Guards men (Special weapons n' all!)
I thought about dumping the tank, but I cant. It needs love and its going to get it. I'll make a few parts and buy the ones I cant make, i.e. tank tracks. Its an old model tank (2003) so parts are a bit hard to come by which is why I'll have to be creative.
All this for £2. The seller looked at me like I was crazy for wanting it. Ha! Crazy alright, dang frigging oof me rocker.
The only trouble with this is that I have now even more things to paint. My Astra Millitaruim Kill Team was originaly going to consist of 5 Scions and a bunch of guards. I couldnt find guards on ebay that I could varifiy were not the easy to build ones, which, lets face it are usless for convertion. So I ended up buying another (again very cheap from facebook market) set of Scions. So now I have 10 Scions and about 20 guards. All for a 100 point Kill Team!
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You can never have too many odds and sods that you've picked up cheap
If nothing else the tank can be used towards scenery, whilst other parts for scenery, basing and conversions.
One of the guys I play uses badly assembled vehicles that he's picked up cheap for things like destroyed tanks and scenery.
I've just managed my first bit of painting for a while, as I got the airbrush set up in the spare room (with a cheap extractor venting out the window, and a good daylight lamp for light), in a little over an hour I managed to do two base coats of The Fang on the Riptide and it's sub assemblies
The Fang Air seems to work quite well when thinned with 3ml of Vellejo thinner run through a .5ml airbrush at around 12-15psi
If nothing else the tank can be used towards scenery, whilst other parts for scenery, basing and conversions.
One of the guys I play uses badly assembled vehicles that he's picked up cheap for things like destroyed tanks and scenery.
I've just managed my first bit of painting for a while, as I got the airbrush set up in the spare room (with a cheap extractor venting out the window, and a good daylight lamp for light), in a little over an hour I managed to do two base coats of The Fang on the Riptide and it's sub assemblies
The Fang Air seems to work quite well when thinned with 3ml of Vellejo thinner run through a .5ml airbrush at around 12-15psi
Finished the tank. Spent £5 on parts and used my spare pot of deathguard green I got from Conquest. All was great until I decided to cover the whole thing in Camoshade. But I guess its got a diirty look to it now.
I think tanks definatally need to be sprayed, not painted. Although the paint job came out quite smooth with 4 coats of very thin green.
Back to painting my Ork Kill Team!
I think tanks definatally need to be sprayed, not painted. Although the paint job came out quite smooth with 4 coats of very thin green.
Back to painting my Ork Kill Team!
Thanks guys, I just got those from eBay search "lipped 40mm bases".
They really complement your models. They make them look more like chess peices. I must have them!
Thanks man.
I think I actually prefer the standard GW style straight edged ones, honestly ordered those lipped ones by accident but too lazy (cheap haha) to swap them over.
The decoration of the bases in mostly sand from a beach in Norfolk, mixed in the some Games Workshop "modelling gravel" which I had from way back when. I painted on a layer of PVA and dipped it in the mix, let it dry. I then mixed up some PVA with water to make it in to a milk consistency, then "washed it" in that to seal everything. The PVA water mix dries completely clear. Once that was done the little bushes came from ebay about £3, just search 2mm tufts.
I think I actually prefer the standard GW style straight edged ones, honestly ordered those lipped ones by accident but too lazy (cheap haha) to swap them over.
The decoration of the bases in mostly sand from a beach in Norfolk, mixed in the some Games Workshop "modelling gravel" which I had from way back when. I painted on a layer of PVA and dipped it in the mix, let it dry. I then mixed up some PVA with water to make it in to a milk consistency, then "washed it" in that to seal everything. The PVA water mix dries completely clear. Once that was done the little bushes came from ebay about £3, just search 2mm tufts.
I've always stuck my figures to the bases and stuck the sand or whatever around them, but this always gets sand stuck to their feet so is not ideal. What do you stick yours to the sand with? Do they break off easily?
EDIT : Or are yours stuck directly to the base as well? They look like they are on the sand. If they are, then kudos to you for being careful!
EDIT : Or are yours stuck directly to the base as well? They look like they are on the sand. If they are, then kudos to you for being careful!
Yeah they werre already stuck directly to the bases.
Just use a paintbrush to "paint" on the PVA, that way you can get right up to the feet. Provided you regularly wash the brush and thoroughly wash it after, you wont ruin it - that being said, dont use your best brush!
Just use a paintbrush to "paint" on the PVA, that way you can get right up to the feet. Provided you regularly wash the brush and thoroughly wash it after, you wont ruin it - that being said, dont use your best brush!
My parents came to visit me over the weekend and they'd decided to clear out the wardrobes at their place.. Bringing with them a load of my Warhammer stuff from about 20 years ago. I've got a fair bit to go through and it's a bit of a mish mash of things. Mainly 40k Blood Angels, but I've got a Mordheim Skaven gang and various other things.. Most of them are pretty badly painted or un-painted!
Next time I've got a quiet weekend, I'll have to go through it all and see what I've got!
Next time I've got a quiet weekend, I'll have to go through it all and see what I've got!