Tabletop Warhammer?

simon.deighton · 20 Jul 2012 at 16:51

shaank said:
PIIIIIICSSSSSS

I think all I have left is one case of random stuff

Theres a converted original emporers champion plus the Eldar striking scorpion guy Karadras?

Also got the female necromunda escher gang that all have leopard print stockings and short tops lol

snave · 20 Jul 2012 at 20:08

I'm looking into getting back into warhammer, can anyone recommend me some starter sites or general tips?

Von Smallhausen · 20 Jul 2012 at 23:34

What army do you want ?

uk_unbeliever · 20 Jul 2012 at 23:43

gilljoy said:
Thought I'd chip something into this thread.

Been playing 40k for just over a year now after a 5 or so year gap.
This is one of my WIP space wolves rune priests.

Also going to be starting a nice Voystron army soon cant wait. And entirely metal army mostly

Nice non-metallic metal on the axe. I like the high contrast look

Swi1ch · 21 Jul 2012 at 07:39

Could anyone explain the new paints to me please? When I last painted there were metallic paints, paints, inks and foundation paints. Now there's base, shade, layer and all sorts of stuff. Are they actually different, or are the new labels just a guide or something?

Also, I know that some people use non-citadel paints for their warhammer figures, anyone have any recommendations? Especially if they're any cheaper, as the full citadel paint set is now £330!

Kiyoshi · 21 Jul 2012 at 08:30

I use Vallejo paints almost all the time, unless there is a specific colour equivalent they don't make: http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/gb/game-color-gb.html

You can use any of these for miniature painting, the Game Color line just matches the Citadel line in that almost each paint has an equivalent Citadel colour. But you can also use Model Color or Model Air.

I prefer Vallejo paints because you get 17ml a pot rather than the 12ml from Games Workshop. The main reason I prefer them though is that they come in an eye-dropper pot which helps stop your paints drying out hugely. I also avoid snapping the lid off as I used to do with the Citadel paints after too much opening and closing.

You can buy the paints from Wayland Games or Dark Sphere, or maybe another game/hobby store you know of. They're still not 'cheap' as you might pay almost £2 a pot but I think they are cheaper (and better in my opinion) than the Citadel pots.

Von Smallhausen · 21 Jul 2012 at 09:54

Swi1ch said:
Could anyone explain the new paints to me please? When I last painted there were metallic paints, paints, inks and foundation paints. Now there's base, shade, layer and all sorts of stuff. Are they actually different, or are the new labels just a guide or something?

Also, I know that some people use non-citadel paints for their warhammer figures, anyone have any recommendations? Especially if they're any cheaper, as the full citadel paint set is now £330!

Base is your old foundation. This includes some metallic colours.

Layer is the new name for the colour range. This also includes metallic.

Shade paints are washes which are very thin and good for highlighting recesses, for example in space marine armour or Ork flesh and muscle.

Dry is a thicker paint which is better for drybrushing. The range is limited but they are very good.

Glaze helps to pull colours together. Very good if used right but I think there are only 4 colours.

snave · 21 Jul 2012 at 10:27

Von Smallhausen said:
What army do you want ?

I was looking at Tyrannids but with the new rules coming out I'm not quite sure. Probably Tyrannids TBH I love those guys,

Von Smallhausen · 21 Jul 2012 at 10:31

Go and get some. Lads at the shops are very friendly and helpful.

I fancy buying a couple of Tyrannids just to paint as they look good.

Swi1ch · 21 Jul 2012 at 12:42

Von Smallhausen said:
Base is your old foundation. This includes some metallic colours.

Layer is the new name for the colour range. This also includes metallic.

Shade paints are washes which are very thin and good for highlighting recesses, for example in space marine armour or Ork flesh and muscle.

Dry is a thicker paint which is better for drybrushing. The range is limited but they are very good.

Glaze helps to pull colours together. Very good if used right but I think there are only 4 colours.

Thanks. I assume Layer 1 and Layer 2 are just for ease of browsing rather than any difference in paint?

I wish they hadn't changed the names so much. If they had the old names I would know off the bat which paints I want but this way i'm gonna have to gamble, or fork out on the entire set.

Edit.

And I just realised they have a colour chart for matching with the old range.

Kiyoshi · 21 Jul 2012 at 12:51

Or just buy an alternative make.

Von Smallhausen · 21 Jul 2012 at 18:55

Pretty much sw1ch. That's how I see it anyway.

gilljoy · 24 Jul 2012 at 11:16

Anyone have any tips on stripping plastic models? I've tried dettol on other plastics and it end up with the paint stripped but a lovely greasy finish to them

Messed up a few space wolves and I dont want to melt them

Spuj · 24 Jul 2012 at 11:20

Von Smallhausen said:
Base is your old foundation. This includes some metallic colours.

When I was painting a few years ago, I would use a chaos black spray to base my models before applying the main armour colour (ultramarine blue).

If I were to do it now, would I be best of buying some foundation paints?

Von Smallhausen · 24 Jul 2012 at 11:33

Spuj1988 said:
When I was painting a few years ago, I would use a chaos black spray to base my models before applying the main armour colour (ultramarine blue).

If I were to do it now, would I be best of buying some foundation paints?

I still use chaos black to undercoat marines but I have started cheating a bit and got some ultramarine spray for the armour as a second coat.

I then highlight recesses with drakenhoff nightshade wash and edge armour with a lighter blue. Gold shoulder edges are gehennas gold highlighted with auric armour gold as are imperial eagles. You can highlight with a 1/1 mix of gold and silver instead if you want a lighter highlight.

The new paint range is usually macragge blue as a base coat after the chaos black and highlight with what Ultramarines blue is called now. Aldorf or Calgar blue maybe.

gilljoy · 24 Jul 2012 at 11:41

Why not check out the army painter sprays? Get a nice dark blue one and your sorted for ultramarines?

Only downside is that its not as versitile as a black white or grey spray

ShadowMan · 24 Jul 2012 at 11:55

gilljoy said:
Anyone have any tips on stripping plastic models? I've tried dettol on other plastics and it end up with the paint stripped but a lovely greasy finish to them

Messed up a few space wolves and I dont want to melt them

Try using Flash floor cleaner. Works surprisingly well.

For the harder to clean ones I have used DOT4 brake fluid which makes a mess of your hands but leaves the mini's easy to clean off with a cheap toothbrush.

Used the above on both metal and plastic without an issue. Not tried it on finecast yet as I am refusing to buy any after hearing horror stories!

The best one I have heard of using is however IPA (Alcohol). Get the pure stuff from ebay and dilute down to your requirements. Its the IPA in most cleaners you are after anyway to soften the paint and lift it clear.

gilljoy · 24 Jul 2012 at 11:59

ShadowMan said:
Try using Flash floor cleaner. Works surprisingly well.

For the harder to clean ones I have used DOT4 brake fluid which makes a mess of your hands but leaves the mini's easy to clean off with a cheap toothbrush.

Used the above on both metal and plastic without an issue. Not tried it on finecast yet as I am refusing to buy any after hearing horror stories!

The best one I have heard of using is however IPA (Alcohol). Get the pure stuff from ebay and dilute down to your requirements. Its the IPA in most cleaners you are after anyway to soften the paint and lift it clear.

any particular type of floor cleaner? I've heard fairy power spray is meant to be good too

ShadowMan · 24 Jul 2012 at 11:59

Spuj1988 said:
When I was painting a few years ago, I would use a chaos black spray to base my models before applying the main armour colour (ultramarine blue).

If I were to do it now, would I be best of buying some foundation paints?

The foundation paints still need to applied on top of primer.

First steps for me are always assembly (leave of parts that cover others), clean up flash and molding lines. Undercoat in Chaos Black spray (3 very light coats).

Once the above is done I start on the paint proper working from inside areas to out.

ShadowMan · 24 Jul 2012 at 12:02

gilljoy said:
any particular type of floor cleaner? I've heard fairy power spray is meant to be good too

I am currently using the Flash All Floors with added Febreze simply because the Mrs bought it and left in the cupboard.

The one usually recommended is Simple Green but I think that might be an American brand.

Check the blog below for more tips. Its not my blog but their stuff is quite helpful!

http://blog.brushthralls.com/?page_id=4093