Tabletop Warhammer?

Spuj · 24 Jul 2012 at 12:11

Von Smallhausen said:
SNIP

Seems a lot has changed since I was last painting then. Thanks for the tips really appreciate it, will look at picking up some of these colours for the marines. Would you happen to have any pointers for orcs as I have a bunch of those to paint as well?

gilljoy said:
Why not check out the army painter sprays? Get a nice dark blue one and your sorted for ultramarines?

Only downside is that its not as versitile as a black white or grey spray

I was thinking about it, but I have a bunch of orcs to paint, some Imperial Guard and I would like to pick up some Tyranid at some point so thinking of keeping to just paints for the time being! It may be something I consider later on as I have more marines than anything else.

ShadowMan said:
The foundation paints still need to applied on top of primer.

Will definately have to pick up some new paints then, thanks very much!

Von Smallhausen · 24 Jul 2012 at 12:22

Spuj1988 said:
Seems a lot has changed since I was last painting then. Thanks for the tips really appreciate it, will look at picking up some of these colours for the marines. Would you happen to have any pointers for orcs as I have a bunch of those to paint as well.

Orcs aren't my area of expertise tbh but they should be chaos black primed.

Basecoat the skin with waaagh flesh, wash with biel-tan green and layer with war boss green and skarsnik green.

Basecoat teeth with zandri dust and layer with ushabti bone and screaming skull.

Memphiston red is good for the eyes and for clothing, armour and weapons there are numerous ways online when googling how to paint Orcs / Orc armour / Orc weapons.

Kavalree · 24 Jul 2012 at 12:23

I used 1 part bleach, 1 part nail varnish remover and 1 part flash oven cleaner...does not smell good at all! I left 5 metal models and bases in the mixture for 3 days, the bases melted into nothing and the paint started melting...the metal models now look new...

Spuj · 24 Jul 2012 at 13:29

Von Smallhausen said:
Orcs aren't my area of expertise tbh but they should be chaos black primed.

Basecoat the skin with waaagh flesh, wash with biel-tan green and layer with war boss green and skarsnik green.

Basecoat teeth with zandri dust and layer with ushabti bone and screaming skull.

Memphiston red is good for the eyes and for clothing, armour and weapons there are numerous ways online when googling how to paint Orcs / Orc armour / Orc weapons.

And you said that they weren't your area of expertise

Loads of info, thanks very much!!

simon.deighton · 24 Jul 2012 at 13:33

In terms of undercoats:

In my experience working at GW, 9 times out of ten undercoating black is the best way to go for a higher quality finish, even on models which require a lor of light areas.

You gotta balance the light and shadows!

If you have time, giving your model a very light undercoat by doing a few very fine passes from distance allows you to get the very best detail possible as you retail all the sharpness of the model.

Also undercoating in a very cold area is bad, as you get graining. Shake that can well too!

/* */

On a side note

washes = awful, highlighting for the win.

simon.deighton · 24 Jul 2012 at 13:35

I used to facepalm when people would come in and ask for help with a model which looked literally like it had been dipped head first into a full pot of paint and left to dry :'(

Von Smallhausen · 24 Jul 2012 at 14:23

I'm not that good by highlighting alone, especially with Orks so I use a wash to highlight the muscle ridges.

Highlighting alone is for the real experts.

simon.deighton · 24 Jul 2012 at 14:38

Maybe get one a seperate model away from the army to practice highlighting?

feriso · 24 Jul 2012 at 15:31

I find highlighting not that difficult; bit of dry brushing (usually build it up in layers depend on the area) though it takes a bit of practice. Saying that its been about 5yrs since I last did any.

Need time to get back into it but struggling with two young kids and life

Von Smallhausen · 24 Jul 2012 at 21:02

simon.deighton said:
Maybe get one a seperate model away from the army to practice highlighting?

I can highlight stuff like armour plates and weapons but more advanced highlighting such as Ork muscle is harder to get the same effect.

simon.deighton · 25 Jul 2012 at 08:55

I kinda wish I still had my paints, I could do tutorials

I'd dread buying all the paint range again, it was nice having acces to the whole range for free in the shop

Ork skin can be quite easy if you get the shading right, but it does take a lot of practice. I was really kinda obsessed by highlighting from the really dark green, shades right up to a very light colour on muscle edges.

For kinda extra credit, adding really really fine lines along the length of the main muscle groups made them look bulging and really bring them to life.

Would only do thay on commanders etc tho, Id dread spending that amount of time of a full mob >_<

gilljoy · 25 Jul 2012 at 08:59

simon.deighton said:
I kinda wish I still had my paints, I could do tutorials

I'd dread buying all the paint range again, it was nice having acces to the whole range for free in the shop

Ork skin can be quite easy if you get the shading right, but it does take a lot of practice. I was really kinda obsessed by highlighting from the really dark green, shades right up to a very light colour on muscle edges.

For kinda extra credit, adding really really fine lines along the length of the main muscle groups made them look bulging and really bring them to life.

Would only do thay on commanders etc tho, Id dread spending that amount of time of a full mob >_<

Why not try vallejo paints? Getting the whole game colour range would be a hell of a lot cheaper than the new citadel range + the colours are the same / very similar to the old GW colours.

simon.deighton · 25 Jul 2012 at 09:09

Good idea, I think if I do get back into it thats would be the way to go, the full citadel range is like £330 >_<

I used to have one of the big plastic army cases just for the paints, perfect fit in the red foam inner part!

Von Smallhausen · 25 Jul 2012 at 09:40

GW prices are extortionate. It's over £60 for a large case with foam inserts that house paints or figures.

You can buy an aluminium case with inserts cheaper elsewhere.

gilljoy · 25 Jul 2012 at 09:53

Von Smallhausen said:
GW prices are extortionate. It's over £60 for a large case with foam inserts that house paints or figures.

You can buy an aluminium case with inserts cheaper elsewhere.

Or for that price you can get 2 custom cut card cases from KR multicase

Von Smallhausen · 25 Jul 2012 at 10:01

I've looked at them but I'm not sure how long a card case would last.

The inserts for drop pods, bikes, troops or monoliths, destroyers and Necrons look really good.

ShadowMan · 25 Jul 2012 at 10:03

If you are looking at the KR ones then the card cases are actually really good. I have one currently and have just ordered 2 today for a friend.

Another in our gaming group has one aswell and has never had problems. For £23 including the foam and delivery it is much cheaper than anything else we have found.

Another of our group is looking at Battlefoam as he does not think his Brettonians will fit mounted in a KR. We are trying to prove him wrong at the moment.

Von Smallhausen · 25 Jul 2012 at 10:06

I just paint and don't play so for storage alone the card cases are good enough ?

Nikumba · 25 Jul 2012 at 10:08

gilljoy said:
Why not check out the army painter sprays? Get a nice dark blue one and your sorted for ultramarines?

Only downside is that its not as versitile as a black white or grey spray

This is what I have started to do with my Lizardmen, undercoat in black then spray with Army Painter Alien Purple.

I know the purple is a primer according to the can, and yet to try spraying a model straight purple without the black, but should work ok.

Kimbie

Nikumba · 25 Jul 2012 at 10:09

Von Smallhausen said:
I just paint and don't play so for storage alone the card cases are good enough ?

Should be more than good enough, the card is pretty sturdy from looking at it. I would say the card is more rigid and thicker than a typical Amazon delivery box.

Kimbie