Tabletop Warhammer?
- Thread starter Arcimbaldo
- Start date
Yea was this : https://spikeybits.com/2020/01/all-the-new-grey-knight-40k-rules-from-ritual-of-the-damned.html
So im guessing it was ritual of the damned. I used to watch Winters SEO and he was going on about this but basically the time I had major burn out so thought I CBA and lost interest in the whole thing.
I'm trying to get back into it again but from what I can tell 10th edition is a bit meh, and so was 9th? And I have all the rule books etc for 8th already and only really play in house so might just stick with it. Hopefully those rules will buff Grey Knights a bit as they were truly awful in 8th.
I already have painted up 2k armies for Grey Knights, Tyranids and Chaos Space Marines.
I've literally just started on an imperial guard army, no idea points wise but I have at least 50 models to paint, all of which will be approx 15 years old and have been stored away. I've literally done 5 guardsmen so far.
Here:
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Associate
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- 16 Sep 2008
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Currently you can get the rules for 10th for free, including the army Index which will eventually be replaced.
I started playing again in 9th edition, having last properly played around the end of 3rd and have really enjoyed the experience. 10th so far has been even better so I would say it's worth at least trying the ruleset.
I started playing again in 9th edition, having last properly played around the end of 3rd and have really enjoyed the experience. 10th so far has been even better so I would say it's worth at least trying the ruleset.
It was psychic awakening.
Hmm need some help. For my storm speeder I’ve made a river/stream bank base. Got the texture paste down and primed but I’m unsure which colours to use on the banks. Thinking brown for the bottom of the stream.
Would you do the banks in a lighter brown than like patches of green over the top? Grass tuffs on top then
Would you do the banks in a lighter brown than like patches of green over the top? Grass tuffs on top then
Hope this works. It's a 12s video of my first (bad) magnetisation attempt. I know where I went wrong so will be spot on next time.
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Associate
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Magnetisation is much easier if you do the entire arm. There is then a lot more space to play with (and its easier to hide stuff) in the shoulder joint.Hope this works. It's a 12s video of my first (bad) magnetisation attempt. I know where I went wrong so will be spot on next time.
I drill 2 holes slightly bigger than I need. Fill them with green stuff (dont over fill) and then press the magnet in flush.
You can then prime and paint over the top.
I don't think I have enough arms for the weapons though. I've only done it for one particular marine that can have Melta/plasma/plague belcher.
Will be handy on the vehicles for sure and seemingly easier.
I don’t see the value in magnetising infantry. Just pick a load out you like and live with it 
if you’re desperate, buy a single model somewhere and use that for your second option.
I fully magnetised a Sentinel once because I wanted to paint one. It was great fun, but it then sat there on the shelf surrounded by a bunch of painted pieces
if you’re desperate, buy a single model somewhere and use that for your second option. I fully magnetised a Sentinel once because I wanted to paint one. It was great fun, but it then sat there on the shelf surrounded by a bunch of painted pieces
I don’t see the value in magnetising infantry. Just pick a load out you like and live with it
I fully magnetised a Sentinel once because I wanted to paint one. It was great fun, but it then sat there on the shelf surrounded by a bunch of painted pieces
Because I don't want to stick with one loadout if there is a WYSIWYG rule for the game. Nor do I want to spend another £30 to buy more just so I can equip with other bits + paint them etc. Like I said, I've only done this for the two marines that have a choice of 3 weapons all of which I intend to use in games to test tactics. The others I just live with!
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There is a WYSIWYG rule when playing tournaments. If you’re playing with friends - even at a local GW store, there wouldn’t be any issues at all with saying you’d like to substitute the melta with a flamer for instance.
Magnetising weapons can be awkward as the gun is heavier than the magnet can support. This can result in it either rotating round at the slightest touch, or at worst falling off.
Nobody wants your to see your Plague Spewer fall off.
e: I’m absolutely not criticising anything you’ve done; if you enjoy magnetising, then magnet until your fingers fall off! Your hobby is for you to enjoy the way you find it enjoyable. I’m just suggesting you don’t make a huge unmanageable backlog for yourself but over engineering this which ultimately aren’t required. Focus your time on the parts of the hobby you want to progress on, regardless of what others (including me) think
Magnetising weapons can be awkward as the gun is heavier than the magnet can support. This can result in it either rotating round at the slightest touch, or at worst falling off.
Nobody wants your to see your Plague Spewer fall off.
e: I’m absolutely not criticising anything you’ve done; if you enjoy magnetising, then magnet until your fingers fall off! Your hobby is for you to enjoy the way you find it enjoyable. I’m just suggesting you don’t make a huge unmanageable backlog for yourself but over engineering this which ultimately aren’t required. Focus your time on the parts of the hobby you want to progress on, regardless of what others (including me) think
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There is a WYSIWYG rule when playing tournaments. If you’re playing with friends - even at a local GW store, there wouldn’t be any issues at all with saying you’d like to substitute the melta with a flamer for instance.
Magnetising weapons can be awkward as the gun is heavier than the magnet can support. This can result in it either rotating round at the slightest touch, or at worst falling off.
Nobody wants your to see your Plague Spewer fall off.
e: I’m absolutely not criticising anything you’ve done; if you enjoy magnetising, then magnet until your fingers fall off! Your hobby is for you to enjoy the way you find it enjoyable. I’m just suggesting you don’t make a huge unmanageable backlog for yourself but over engineering this which ultimately aren’t required. Focus your time on the parts of the hobby you want to progress on, regardless of what others (including me) think
Not at all, I didn't take it as criticism. It just placates the anxiety of making a bad choice*, and I just prefer WYSIWYG, especially as I find it hard to keep track of what is going on anyway in a game, so if I am having to deal with proxies as well then people could potentially take advantage of that, or simply lose track their selves. As said, was mainly for the vehicles, just I thought I'd try on that one model
*Outside of choosing death guard in the first place lol.
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My friends and I generally push for wysiwyg but we have a guy that plays using original (80s) eldar so it's just not possible for him. It's really not a problem as long as you don't take the **** with what something is and make it clear at the start of the game.
There's one guy who none of us really like to play as he tries to get away with ridiculous proxies and has a nasty little habit of either not telling you something is different or changing it half way through a game.
There's one guy who none of us really like to play as he tries to get away with ridiculous proxies and has a nasty little habit of either not telling you something is different or changing it half way through a game.
Associate
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Slowly replacing my ancient citadel paints a couple at a time, mainly with vallejo's but grabbed some MonumentHobbies Pro Acryl paints. Not properly used them yet but the colours look good, they do flow a bit more out of the bottle but still need some thinning. Strangely matt vs the gw stuff that'll take a little to get used to but I think looks good. Undecided about the bottle tops though. They're sealed when new which is great however I don't think you get as much control over the amount of paint vs the 'normal' dropper bottles.
Started painting the crons tonight in my chosen color scheme.
1 model in and I absolutely hate it as the zenithal undercoat on crons just makes the contrast *way* too dark due to how deep some of their recesses are when assembled.
Deciding now to either give them another light dusting of white and try again, or, pivot over to a more traditional "silver" crons scheme.
1 model in and I absolutely hate it as the zenithal undercoat on crons just makes the contrast *way* too dark due to how deep some of their recesses are when assembled.
Deciding now to either give them another light dusting of white and try again, or, pivot over to a more traditional "silver" crons scheme.
Soldato
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Finish the test model first, recesses should be nice and dark and I find often when I think my dark bits are alarmingly dark, once highlighted it makes them pop nicely. Often things that look like you’re over doing when you’re 9 inches away look perfect at three feet, and if it looks nice and subtle up close it can often look flat further away.
I got it to near finished and unfortunately even with the highlights and a lot of drybrushing to try and bring out the edges and lighten things up, it was just too much dark on dark on dark.
Chucked it in a tub of IPA to melt the paint off over night, will going to give it another go on a pure white primer.