Tabletop Warhammer?
- Thread starter Arcimbaldo
- Start date
I went and met up with some friends and had a great time.
4 of us went on to Brummyham and spent the day at Warhammer world and had a great time looking around at the museum, and then a good game on one of the tables (the first game for 3 of us under the 6th edition rules, and the first time I've had my Daemons out in 2-3 years).
A really, really good couple of days
I may post a few of the pictures up in the next few days once I've had a chance to recover, I think I ended up with 500+ snaps
(and a couple of videos of our game at different points).
[edit]
3 guesses which Games day special model I absolutely had to buy.
4 of us went on to Brummyham and spent the day at Warhammer world and had a great time looking around at the museum, and then a good game on one of the tables (the first game for 3 of us under the 6th edition rules, and the first time I've had my Daemons out in 2-3 years).
A really, really good couple of days
I may post a few of the pictures up in the next few days once I've had a chance to recover, I think I ended up with 500+ snaps
(and a couple of videos of our game at different points).[edit]
3 guesses which Games day special model I absolutely had to buy.
Soldato
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Ordered Dark Vengence box set over the weekend, will find all my old lead eldar some time this week at my folks house.
I assume one is still allowed to use kodels from twenty years ago?
How often do they update codex? I have ordered an eldar one, but fear it might be obselete soon, most codex seem to be fifth edition, it seems to be a fourth?
The main rule book is sixth edition now, with reportede differences for all armies, but where exactly do you find the updates? Are they in newly released codexes? Or is it the application of major game rules in general that have had the effect on armies?
I assume one is still allowed to use kodels from twenty years ago?
How often do they update codex? I have ordered an eldar one, but fear it might be obselete soon, most codex seem to be fifth edition, it seems to be a fourth?
The main rule book is sixth edition now, with reportede differences for all armies, but where exactly do you find the updates? Are they in newly released codexes? Or is it the application of major game rules in general that have had the effect on armies?
Codex's vary in when they're updated - some have been redone in the last couple of years, some like the Tau one are now two editions of the game old *grumbles*
You can't really predict when they'll do a new codex, so I wouldn't really worry about it becoming obsolete.
The errata and FAQ's for the 40k book and armies are generally here, however you'll find a list of basic stats for all unies in the main rule books now (which is new, and handy), and sometimes they'll do an update that is only available in White Dwarf or the Ipad for some insane and completely illogical reason (I only found out that my Flamers of Tzeench had been reduced in cost by about a third at the last minute when a friend mentioned it - it hadn't been mentioned in the recent update for the Daemon FAQ).
One tip, if you've got access to a laminator, print out the quick reference sheets (shooting to hit/wound charts, and the vehicle damage results, and desspstrike mishap table etc), and laminate them.
That way they'll last ages, be protected from spills, and you can prop them up
You can also do something similar for special rules for your force, or even a complete army listing if you are spending a weekend playing, or might use it for multiple games (one of my friends started doing that for our weekends of gaming and it's really handy).
You can't really predict when they'll do a new codex, so I wouldn't really worry about it becoming obsolete.
The errata and FAQ's for the 40k book and armies are generally here, however you'll find a list of basic stats for all unies in the main rule books now (which is new, and handy), and sometimes they'll do an update that is only available in White Dwarf or the Ipad for some insane and completely illogical reason (I only found out that my Flamers of Tzeench had been reduced in cost by about a third at the last minute when a friend mentioned it - it hadn't been mentioned in the recent update for the Daemon FAQ).
One tip, if you've got access to a laminator, print out the quick reference sheets (shooting to hit/wound charts, and the vehicle damage results, and desspstrike mishap table etc), and laminate them.
That way they'll last ages, be protected from spills, and you can prop them up
You can also do something similar for special rules for your force, or even a complete army listing if you are spending a weekend playing, or might use it for multiple games
(one of my friends started doing that for our weekends of gaming and it's really handy).
I'm very intrigued, what did you get?
Who are the necrons?
I played warhammer 40k a long time ago. The armies where released on white dwarf mags, then they brought out a pretty useless general blue compendium, then the first race specific compendiums which was great. Then they started doing the new compendiums one at a time, leaving the "new" ones overpowered. When they released the eldar compendium i stopped - New unit called wrathguard which was completely invisible and nobody could attack them.. very poor lol (I was tzeentch/nurgle, ally was khorne).
p.s. original harlequins where fantastic - death jester and solitaire!
I played warhammer 40k a long time ago. The armies where released on white dwarf mags, then they brought out a pretty useless general blue compendium, then the first race specific compendiums which was great. Then they started doing the new compendiums one at a time, leaving the "new" ones overpowered. When they released the eldar compendium i stopped - New unit called wrathguard which was completely invisible and nobody could attack them.. very poor lol (I was tzeentch/nurgle, ally was khorne).
p.s. original harlequins where fantastic - death jester and solitaire!
The Forgeworld Skin Wolf special edition model
I'm going to put one of them on my desk once painted.
Java33, the Necrons are basically a very old race that (from memory) decided to upload themselves into robotic bodies and went into hibernation effectively in underground catacombs, but ended up staying in hibernation for far longer than intended with the result that most of them view all life as bad, with only a few remembering what they were (again from memory).
Think Egyptian Pharaohs in highly advance metal bodies, with a downer on life
).They are also very hard to kill properly - their big thing is that a lot of them can be resurrected as long as the unit isn't wiped out, you have a chance to bring dead models back for many of the troop types.
Man of Honour
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Who are the necrons?
http://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Necron
Quite easy to paint and look tremendous.
One of the guys I was playing with yesterday did a large number of necrons in a day!
IIRC you can basically spray them black, then do several drybrush layers and get the bulk of the troops looking really good (or, I think my brother is planning on priming them, then spraying them with vallejo model air gunmetal or something for the basic colour before highlights).
Man of Honour
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It's easy to paint them in bulk Wolfy.
I haven't evolved to Vellejo but I spray Necrons chaos black on the moulding frame. I then paint them with leadbelcher then assemble. Wash with devlan mud then dry brush / highlight with runefang steel.
Shoulder plates based with balthasar gold then highlighted with gehennas gold. Gauss flayer I leave black but drybrush gold or bronze and the eyes get a dab of snot green or skarsnik green.
For the base I like dark ash or scorched effect so I dab PVA glue on then dip in model coal used in train sets which is about £3 or 4 for a bag from Modelzone.
I haven't evolved to Vellejo but I spray Necrons chaos black on the moulding frame. I then paint them with leadbelcher then assemble. Wash with devlan mud then dry brush / highlight with runefang steel.
Shoulder plates based with balthasar gold then highlighted with gehennas gold. Gauss flayer I leave black but drybrush gold or bronze and the eyes get a dab of snot green or skarsnik green.
For the base I like dark ash or scorched effect so I dab PVA glue on then dip in model coal used in train sets which is about £3 or 4 for a bag from Modelzone.
Soldato
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Wonder the same, having never airbrushed anything ever, what equipment are people using.
Von, aye, the necrons are probably the only army I could paint in a reasonable amount of time
County, to thin normal GW/acrylic paints you can use either water, or acrylic thinner.
Water if cheap, but you lose some of the adhesion with it, and Vallejo do big bottles (500ml) for under a tenner of proper acrylic thinner which doesn't affect the paint's adhesive qualities as much (although IIRC you can't use it with some metallics).
You can get cheap twin action brushes on ebay (often a pair of them with a small compressor for about £70-100), or you can pay more and get a named brand that you'll be able to get spares for (I use a Harder & Steinbeck Evolution).
The main thing is to get a top feeder twin action brush, as bottom feeder brushed tend to require higher pressures to work (they need to effectively syphon the paint up from the bottle), and can't get into close spaces (due to the large bottle under it), and twin action so you can start the air, then start the paint flowing, which gives you massively more control.
Ideally you also want to get a face mask (about £20), and you will need to allow for things like airbrush cleaner (about a tenner will get you enough to last ages).
We went over the top a bit with ours, going for a good brush at ~£140, a good smallish compressor at ~£200, and then a proper extractor at ~£250 (mainly because we were fed up of the haze spraying cans of undercoat created in the garage), but you can get set up for about £100 all in if you shop around, and don't worry about getting name brand stuff.
County, to thin normal GW/acrylic paints you can use either water, or acrylic thinner.
Water if cheap, but you lose some of the adhesion with it, and Vallejo do big bottles (500ml) for under a tenner of proper acrylic thinner which doesn't affect the paint's adhesive qualities as much (although IIRC you can't use it with some metallics).
You can get cheap twin action brushes on ebay (often a pair of them with a small compressor for about £70-100), or you can pay more and get a named brand that you'll be able to get spares for (I use a Harder & Steinbeck Evolution).
The main thing is to get a top feeder twin action brush, as bottom feeder brushed tend to require higher pressures to work (they need to effectively syphon the paint up from the bottle), and can't get into close spaces (due to the large bottle under it), and twin action so you can start the air, then start the paint flowing, which gives you massively more control.
Ideally you also want to get a face mask (about £20), and you will need to allow for things like airbrush cleaner (about a tenner will get you enough to last ages).
We went over the top a bit with ours, going for a good brush at ~£140, a good smallish compressor at ~£200, and then a proper extractor at ~£250 (mainly because we were fed up of the haze spraying cans of undercoat created in the garage), but you can get set up for about £100 all in if you shop around, and don't worry about getting name brand stuff.
Soldato
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Nice info, thx.
The Forgeworld Skin Wolf special edition model
I'm going to put one of them on my desk once painted.
oooooo very nice, please post some photo's when painted!!
That Mordheim board is so sweet and I really like your warband too! My friends and I played Mordheim on our apprenticeship, was such a fun game to play.
I had a Skaven warband which was cool, thinking about getting into it again!
Man of Honour
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What is the best way to strip paint off plastic models ? My eBay lot came through and while most are rescueable, a few have thick paint on and will need stripping.
Stripping plastic is a pain in the backside as the main thing that is needed is effort regardless of what product you use. Anything that will strip the paint fast always melts the plastic
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IWWPnMvNZLs