Tabletop Warhammer?

@PardonTheWait
got sorted. Just ordered the H&S service kit. it has 3 needle and nozzle seals, H&S tool, brushes, microfiber and a case also picked up the chrome air valve so you can go from 20% pressure to 100% on the brush.

The only difference in the CR model's is they are coated in chrome. The Cult of Paint Infinity has a aluminium body to reduce the weight and Gold and chrome coatings so the CRplus spares match better. (I think)
 
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Bigpig said:
@PardonTheWait
got sorted. Just ordered the H&S service kit. it has 3 needle and nozzle seals, H&S tool, brushes, microfiber and a case also picked up the chrome air valve so you can go from 20% pressure to 100% on the brush.

The only difference in the CR model's is they are coated in chrome. The Cult of Paint Infinity has a aluminium body to reduce the weight and Gold and chrome coatings so the CRplus spares match better. (I think)
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Gotcha, I remember now reading/hearing that it's that instead of the nickel plating on the others but didn't realise that was specifically what the CR plus meant. My Ultra has tarnished a bit as it's nickel.

You can apparently fit that triple seal to any of their brushes as well.
 
Man wish I used the Redgrass gaming wet pallet two earlier. Can’t believe I threw it in the drawer and forgot about it. I got the red one and there’s so much space. Can’t imagine how much space on the blue one. It also seems to be keeping my paint good for longer. Still on my first sheet and have washed it 3 times now :D

Almost finished my repaint on Haldor Icepelt. Just got to do the metallics and his base. Really pleased how’s he’s turning out. Almost got enough courage to paint the Blade guard and maybe even Ragner!!

@PardonTheWait Yup that air-craft-net as the 3 seals and screw for 7 quid but out of stock. I soon find out if the valve fits it’s for the CRplus. Trying to find the Ultra 0.4 air cap in stock. It offers a bit more protection. So I don’t have to be as carful priming and varnishing multiple models.
 
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Put together the Ballistus Dreadnaught yesterday, got 4 sub assemblies to paint then assemble.

Finally finished my 10 Primarus Intercessors that I bought just before Christmas, I really hate purity seals such a pig to glue onto the figures :(

Currently 3d printing a painting fork so I can hold and prime 6 minis at once which should help a lot.

Cheers All
 
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I bought more paint when I ordered the 0.4 air cap!! It seemed a shame paying P&P on just the air cap and can’t have it travelling by its self!

Pro Acryl Titanium White, Burnt Red and bold pryo red. The reds I have from Ak don’t seem to pop and might as well see what all the fuss is about on the Titanium white.


RobHu said:
Anyone else get stuck in the infinite loop of highlight -> touchup -> highlight -> touchup? :D
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hate edge highlighting but it’s the biggest bang for your buck.

@roman59 what glue are you using? Plastic glue with a brush is a god send!!
 
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Bigpig said:
I bought more paint when I ordered the 0.4 air cap!! It seemed a shame paying P&P on just the air cap and can’t have it travelling by its self!

Pro Acryl Titanium White, Burnt Red and bold pryo red. The reds I have from Ak don’t seem to pop and might as well see what all the fuss is about on the Titanium white.


hate edge highlighting but it’s the biggest bang for your buck.

@roman59 what glue are you using? Plastic glue with a brush is a god send!!
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I am using the standard Citadel glue and also some of the Tamiya thin cement in the square bottle with the little brush inside the cap.

I have resorted to using a cocktail stick with a little blob of white tack on the end to hold the small parts that I have been sticking on, tried tweezers normal and locking ones but what I am tried to hold 9 times out of 10 always goes ping then I spend 10 minutes trying to find it ;)

What I do find is the Tamiya thin cement is great to use as a filler due to its capillary action.
 
Bigpig said:
hate edge highlighting but it’s the biggest bang for your buck.
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It's a really satisfying result when you get it right, I just find doing it with multiple shades to be hard. I guess I could just drybrush instead but I want that GW 'eavy metal look!
 
Normally I'd prime based on the colour, so I woudknt do black if I was doing imperial fists etc.
However, until my delivery comes I only have black, but as I'm using an airbrush I'm guessing it will probs be not much effort to cover it, it's for my Deathwing. Or I can just wait until my white one arrives.
My tech marine seemed fine over black wine the red so probably answered my own question.
 
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RobHu said:
It's a really satisfying result when you get it right, I just find doing it with multiple shades to be hard. I guess I could just drybrush instead but I want that GW 'eavy metal look!
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I agree but the one thing I’ve learned is Eavy Metal is a lie. It’s sold as base coat, shade the recesses, then edge highlighting. Watch a few videos from infernal brush to see how much work goes into box art. I just do one edge highlight now and call it done!
 
10 spaces marines, one Ballistus Dreadnaught & 2 flesh eaters all primed this afternoon :)

My Iwata Eclipse started splattering so decided to use the H&S Infinity with a 0.4 needle, perfect priming with it especially one those flat panels on the Dreadnaught.

Need to strip down the Eclipse and see if the seal in the barrel needs adjusting as I cant feel hardly any resistance when I slide the needle through it, needle and nozzle are both clean.

Looks like I will be building a Space Marines Devastator Squad tonight (only 5 of them plus a cherub thingy ;)
 
roman59 said:
10 spaces marines, one Ballistus Dreadnaught & 2 flesh eaters all primed this afternoon :)

My Iwata Eclipse started splattering so decided to use the H&S Infinity with a 0.4 needle, perfect priming with it especially one those flat panels on the Dreadnaught.

Need to strip down the Eclipse and see if the seal in the barrel needs adjusting as I cant feel hardly any resistance when I slide the needle through it, needle and nozzle are both clean.

Looks like I will be building a Space Marines Devastator Squad tonight (only 5 of them plus a cherub thingy ;)
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Have you done the trigger mod?
 
Given that priming is just for a sticky layer for other paint, is this enough? Unsure if I need to bother fully coating so there are no speckles or its fine as is.

Seem to fly through that Vallejo primer but doesn't translate to what appears on my model lol.

 
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Noxia as long its covered the model that's the main thing in my book ;)

The results of this afternoons priming session, just for a change I tried some Vallejo USN light ghost grey polyurethane primer, through the H & S airbrush straight out of the bottle, bought the bottle just before Christmas.
 
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@Noxia From what i seen on videos just as long as there enough primer for base coat to grip. doesn't have to be completely covered. Saying that I make sure every mm is covered just to be sure lol as long as it is smooth.

@roman59 I got a bottle of that. Thought it be close to grey seer but think it was quite a bit off.
 
Bigpig said:
@Noxia From what i seen on videos just as long as there enough primer for base coat to grip. doesn't have to be completely covered. Saying that I make sure every mm is covered just to be sure lol as long as it is smooth.

@roman59 I got a bottle of that. Thought it be close to grey seer but think it was quite a bit off.
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I don't think its too bad, impressed with the finish, plus very little smell as opposed to other primers and yes I went for it as a grey seer alternative too.

Owning an airbrush was to save money on rattle cans silly prices for what you get plus so much overspray, I used wraitbone gw primer on my Krondys and a couple of drakes, but I still think I lost a fair bit of detail on the models using it, also I don't think the contrast paint went on any better than a 3rd party primer.
 
Unfortunately no pics but not a good experiment on the deathwing. The highlight colour in the triad I was using was way too bright, almost like white which meant it made my model look weird.
I think it might work if I mix it with the base colour.
 
I just couldn’t get on with can sprays at all. Lots of waste and like you say ended up filling in a lot of detail. Fantastic durability as I tried to strip a few models that I had over done with wraithbone and by gosh that took some scrubbing. Took ages to get it to a state were I could re-prime.

Vallejo airbrush primers i find pita to use but again tough as old boots and can paint over in a few hours. They actually pretty useable with a normal brush also! Definitely the primer I use if I was stripping models and getting ready to repaint.

Pro Acryl is the complete opposite. Super smooth and a dream to use but it really needs time to cure 24hours at minimum!!

I notice AK have a primer range. I wonder if the filler one would be good on resin prints to fill in layer lines!

The airbrush primers are extremely good value. Doubt I see an empty bottle for years lol
 
Bigpig said:
I just couldn’t get on with can sprays at all. Lots of waste and like you say ended up filling in a lot of detail. Fantastic durability as I tried to strip a few models that I had over done with wraithbone and by gosh that took some scrubbing. Took ages to get it to a state were I could re-prime.

Vallejo airbrush primers i find pita to use but again tough as old boots and can paint over in a few hours. They actually pretty useable with a normal brush also! Definitely the primer I use if I was stripping models and getting ready to repaint.

Pro Acryl is the complete opposite. Super smooth and a dream to use but it really needs time to cure 24hours at minimum!!

I notice AK have a primer range. I wonder if the filler one would be good on resin prints to fill in layer lines!

The airbrush primers are extremely good value. Doubt I see an empty bottle for years lol
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Yes the AK filler primers work well on resin prints, they pong a bit and you need cellulose thinners to clean out your airbrush after use ;)

I do a fair bit of resin printing (Saturn 2 owner here) I don't see many layer lines though on my prints :)
 
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