Yup got a Saturn 2 myself. It’s fantastic for printing 3rd party parts but depending on the angle I can still see tiny circles on some prints. The detail that that printer can output is phenomenal.Yes the AK filler primers work well on resin prints, they pong a bit and you need cellulose thinners to clean out your airbrush after use
I do a fair bit of resin printing (Saturn 2 owner here) I don't see many layer lines though on my prints
Tabletop Warhammer?
- Thread starter Arcimbaldo
- Start date
Cured the splattering on my Iwata Eclipse, stripped the brush right down and gave it a full clean and relube, the barrel seal was a bit gunked up once I managed to remove it with a small flat head jewellers screwdriver.
I normally remove and clean the nozzle and needle after use, but now I can feel a bit of resistance when I pull the trigger back so the barrel seal is now working as it should.
I normally remove and clean the nozzle and needle after use, but now I can feel a bit of resistance when I pull the trigger back so the barrel seal is now working as it should.
Good idea, it looks greatHad a brainwave last night. Slapped some Nazdrag Yellow on the 'mud'.
If you add Nazdrag Yellow over the top of silver you get a really good looking old tarnished gold
Interesting. I had best not slap it on the base of my dread then because that is all silver from when I did the metallic base.
Wee new supplies photo because I know some enjoy it: I put them in spoilers because I don't think they add much just on their own.
Had to get the 60ml primer as 200ml was OOS and it was just easier though obv I could have chosen any other white one.
I am venturing into oil recess washes, think I have some smelly white spirit I can use until I get the odourless one.
000 brush, Tamiya is sky grey and ocean grey 2.
Not sure if I'll use the DA Green contrast, I'm not sure I really like the finish from what I've seen but could be a quick way to base.
And here is the what was creased etc decal that sorted itself out. I assume the glossy patch will go when I do an all over matte varnish. That's a point. I'm confused why people add airbrush thinner when they are using varnish because it's already a liquid.
I am not too sure what I will do with the swords. I don't have the skill to paint them like I've seen countless tutorials where you do blending and stuff. I just cant get the paint right. So I will need to settle on somethin much simpler. I am thinking maybe using two closely match colours to just get a basic gradient on my airbrush and call it a day
@Dis86 funny enough it was the iron warriors style of played that made me want to paint the army. I know you can use any of the thingies but but because I'm special I've always just felt wrong say having my army painted Imperial fists but then using a stratagem? from a different chapter.
Same with dice! I insist on having chapters specific dice and actually one of the reasons I didn't carry on with my salamanders was because I did not like their style of play and the whole flamer stuff, again I know you can fit them however you want, but it just didn't feel right to me. I'm genuinely glad others don't have these hangups!
In the game I got annihilated in. I was playing with my mainly unpainted Space marine Army using chaos dice so obviously that was the reason I lost
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Yes a dull coat over the decal will flatten it right down, plus blend it into the surface and stop the decals edges from silveringInteresting. I had best not slap it on the base of my dread then because that is all silver from when I did the metallic base.
Wee new supplies photo because I know some enjoy it: I put them in spoilers because I don't think they add much just on their own.
Had to get the 60ml primer as 200ml was OOS and it was just easier though obv I could have chosen any other white one.
I am venturing into oil recess washes, think I have some smelly white spirit I can use until I get the odourless one.
000 brush, Tamiya is sky grey and ocean grey 2.
Not sure if I'll use the DA Green contrast, I'm not sure I really like the finish from what I've seen but could be a quick way to base.
And here is the what was creased etc decal that sorted itself out. I assume the glossy patch will go when I do an all over matte varnish. That's a point. I'm confused why people add airbrush thinner when they are using varnish because it's already a liquid.
I am not too sure what I will do with the swords. I don't have the skill to paint them like I've seen countless tutorials where you do blending and stuff. I just cant get the paint right. So I will need to settle on somethin much simpler. I am thinking maybe using two closely match colours to just get a basic gradient on my airbrush and call it a day
@Dis86 funny enough it was the iron warriors style of played that made me want to paint the army. I know you can use any of the thingies but but because I'm special I've always just felt wrong say having my army painted Imperial fists but then using a stratagem? from a different chapter.
Same with dice! I insist on having chapters specific dice and actually one of the reasons I didn't carry on with my salamanders was because I did not like their style of play and the whole flamer stuff, again I know you can fit them however you want, but it just didn't feel right to me. I'm genuinely glad others don't have these hangups!
In the game I got annihilated in. I was playing with my mainly unpainted Space marine Army using chaos dice so obviously that was the reason I lost
Just been thinking about your sword, have you tried chipping medium at all ?Yes a dull coat over the decal will flatten it right down, plus blend it into the surface and stop the decals edges from silvering
Put simply you use your base colour that's already on your sword, paint the chipping medium all over the sword blade, then paint a contrasting colour over the top, once its dry take a stiff paintbrush with water on it and start to agitate the last coat you put on.
What happens next is the paint will start to slightly crack & reveal the original colour underneath.
I have used it in the past and it works well, its around £2.75 a bottle.
To give you a better idea watch this video.
EASY GUNDAM TUTORIAL | HOW To Use The Vallejo Chipping Medium | Vallejo Colors | 2021
An 8 minute video on how to use our Vallejo Chipping Medium. An easy Gundam Gunpla tutorial for those who like to paint and use acrylics and weather gunpla o...
www.youtube.com
Just been thinking about your sword, have you tried chipping medium at all ?
Put simply you use your base colour that's already on your sword, paint the chipping medium all over the sword blade, then paint a contrasting colour over the top, once its dry take a stiff paintbrush with water on it and start to agitate the last coat you put on.
What happens next is the paint will start to slightly crack & reveal the original colour underneath.
I have used it in the past and it works well, its around £2.75 a bottle.
To give you a better idea watch this video.
EASY GUNDAM TUTORIAL | HOW To Use The Vallejo Chipping Medium | Vallejo Colors | 2021
An 8 minute video on how to use our Vallejo Chipping Medium. An easy Gundam Gunpla tutorial for those who like to paint and use acrylics and weather gunpla o...
Interesting thanks, I am getting new product fatigue though, always seems to be something else I need or would make a particular task easier. Really I should practice the blending/glazing more because I've only tried it like three times and I'm sure that's not enough. Just hate the waiting in-between stages to dry, never know how long is enough.
Ok I’m a sad sack lol both my orders turned up.
Infinity modified for better trigger response, 2ml cup, 0.2 needle and air control valve. Thought I made a big mistake as air was leaking and the trigger wasn’t springing back up as quickly. Wee clean and a bit lube and it’s perfect. The valve is great small twist and you can instantly cut the air pressure without even going near compressor. Handy for detailed work.
I must say the old Ultra really is a nice brush the new one must be fantastic for the price. Got it switched over to 0.4 and new aircap fitted. It will be the work horse. Just need the 5ml cup for it lol
Infinity modified for better trigger response, 2ml cup, 0.2 needle and air control valve. Thought I made a big mistake as air was leaking and the trigger wasn’t springing back up as quickly. Wee clean and a bit lube and it’s perfect. The valve is great small twist and you can instantly cut the air pressure without even going near compressor. Handy for detailed work.
I must say the old Ultra really is a nice brush the new one must be fantastic for the price. Got it switched over to 0.4 and new aircap fitted. It will be the work horse. Just need the 5ml cup for it lol
Bold Titanium White going strong in here. PS wtf is up with these bottles, there is a lid to unscrew, then a weird sticky up plastic thing I have no idea if I'm supposed to remove or not. Though I am thinking now you are supposed to unscrew the lid a wee bit and then the pointy bit helps control how much paint comes out the opening.
On a plus, an issue with my TTC is sometimes after shaking, as soon as I open the lid the paint starts coming out, and in some cases it is all over the nozzle and then the lid takes the nozzle off when you unscrew it. I think it was a known issue where some were overfilled.
On a plus, an issue with my TTC is sometimes after shaking, as soon as I open the lid the paint starts coming out, and in some cases it is all over the nozzle and then the lid takes the nozzle off when you unscrew it. I think it was a known issue where some were overfilled.
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I want to play the tabletop version. I play the PSP version of Warhammer 40k. I have yet to even make it to these guys.
Soldato
- Joined
- 26 Aug 2003
- Posts
- 24,267
@Noxia the lid is just like on a hot sauce bottle like sriracha or similar. You just open it as far as it goes and squirt the paint out through the gap.
They’re not my favourite lids as they’re a bit dribbly but they never clog to be fair.
They’re not my favourite lids as they’re a bit dribbly but they never clog to be fair.
Yup you just twist the nozzle to open the gap. Don't remove the washer from inside the lid just the seal.
That explains why I couldn't pull the plastic thingy off
I realised pretty quick something wasn't right. Going to fanny around now with some contrasts on the sword to see what I can fluke.
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First attempt at an Ultramarine, happy with the colours so far, got to do his head
needs some edge highlights plus decals etc.Any thoughts guys would be appreciated, contrast paint is a bit tricky on curved surfaces I may go over it with a Macragge Blue glaze, see what it looks like in daylight first.
I will start work up the other 9 tomorrow at some point
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@roman59 You painted a Salamander really well with contrasts, this one looks like how I'd expect it to look if I did it. I don't mean that to be rude, you're far more skilled than me but you nailed the green one so makes me think something very different with this paint compared to Warp Lightning or whatever it was you used. It has that trademark contrast patchy look in parts but tbh, at this point I don't know if that's just how it's supposed to look or not. Obviously we've seen War hipsters stuff where it's like he's using different paint entirely to what I get in the pot
Colour is great, just the weird contrast effect that I've not managed to counter myself despite seeing enough how to's. I honestly just think that SM's are not worth the hassle with contrasts.
I have not noticed this on any other model you've presented or scenery.
Colour is great, just the weird contrast effect that I've not managed to counter myself despite seeing enough how to's. I honestly just think that SM's are not worth the hassle with contrasts.
I have not noticed this on any other model you've presented or scenery.
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Thanks for that, maybe its down to the Vallejo primer I used yesterday, however its a bugger putting that blue contrast onto the model as I am used to surfaces that have loads of detail on them.
It was two shades of green contrast paint on the salamander, maybe I got lucky.
Maybe the AK white filler primer is better not sure, I could go down the layer paint route on the rest and apply nuln oil over the Macragge Blue.
Will see if the glaze fixes it tomorrow
It was two shades of green contrast paint on the salamander, maybe I got lucky.
Maybe the AK white filler primer is better not sure, I could go down the layer paint route on the rest and apply nuln oil over the Macragge Blue.
Will see if the glaze fixes it tomorrow
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