The Indoor Riding/ Zwift/ TrainerRoad etc. Thread

If you need any help just let us know. Someone recently posted a picture of their MTB with a road wheel on it to use a trainer? Which trainer did you get? A new cassette shouldn't be £100 at any rate.

As to the training program, what is your FTP and what is your height / weight? Is it the 6 week FTP builder?
Hiya - greatly appreciated

The zwift hub is a direct drive trainer so no wheel needed. The cassette on my MTB is a Shimano Deore, 10-51 - I have only seen them for around the £90 online. It's a 12 speed, and the cassette on the zwift is 11 which is why I suspect there's some alignment issues. Fortunately with ERG mode, I don't need to change gears so I can leave it on one that sounds smooth :)

FTP is currently set to 116 (did a lite ramp test), 176cm, 120kg and it's the 6 week builder yes.
 
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Hiya - greatly appreciated

The zwift hub is a direct drive trainer so no wheel needed. The cassette on my MTB is a Shimano Deore, 10-51 - I have only seen them for around the £90 online. It's a 12 speed, and the cassette on the zwift is 11 which is why I suspect there's some alignment issues. Fortunately with ERG mode, I don't need to change gears so I can leave it on one that sounds smooth :)

FTP is currently set to 116 (did a lite ramp test), 176cm, 120kg and it's the 6 week builder yes.
Any 12 speed cassette will be fine, doesn't need to be exactly the same one just need to have the same amount of gears to prevent alignment issues.
 
Hiya - greatly appreciated

The zwift hub is a direct drive trainer so no wheel needed. The cassette on my MTB is a Shimano Deore, 10-51 - I have only seen them for around the £90 online. It's a 12 speed, and the cassette on the zwift is 11 which is why I suspect there's some alignment issues. Fortunately with ERG mode, I don't need to change gears so I can leave it on one that sounds smooth :)

FTP is currently set to 116 (did a lite ramp test), 176cm, 120kg and it's the 6 week builder yes.

Ahh OK, 12 speed is still quite expensive. I don't think there is a good way around that honestly. Potentially you could run a 12 speed shimano road cassette on the trainer (about £60) but it still wouldn't change happily due to the mech being designed for a large spread of gears 11-51 and the road one being for 11-34. Might work OK but to save £30 probably not a good enough solution to make it worthwhile. Just checked and I can't actually see a way to mount 12 speed shimano cassettes onto the zwift hub. You need a microspline freehub body which they don't sell from what I can see. Shimano road 12 speed uses the standard freehub interface but their MTB uses microspline.

Just be a little careful as apparently you can run into issues with a 12 speed chain and 11 speed cassette. Check that the chain is sitting nicely on the cassette and in all the teeth evenly as it does when you have the proper rear wheel/cassette in there.

As to the FTP builder, its a good start for sure. At the moment you are probably more concerned with general fitness and weight loss I assume so there is no real benefit to specific training. Once you get a bit fitter you might want to look at some programs that are more targeted to your goals on the bike. If you are doing MTB you might want more short punchy power vs being able to put down a steady amount over a few hours.
 
Ahh OK, 12 speed is still quite expensive. I don't think there is a good way around that honestly. Potentially you could run a 12 speed shimano road cassette on the trainer (about £60) but it still wouldn't change happily due to the mech being designed for a large spread of gears 11-51 and the road one being for 11-34. Might work OK but to save £30 probably not a good enough solution to make it worthwhile. Just checked and I can't actually see a way to mount 12 speed shimano cassettes onto the zwift hub. You need a microspline freehub body which they don't sell from what I can see. Shimano road 12 speed uses the standard freehub interface but their MTB uses microspline.

Just be a little careful as apparently you can run into issues with a 12 speed chain and 11 speed cassette. Check that the chain is sitting nicely on the cassette and in all the teeth evenly as it does when you have the proper rear wheel/cassette in there.

As to the FTP builder, its a good start for sure. At the moment you are probably more concerned with general fitness and weight loss I assume so there is no real benefit to specific training. Once you get a bit fitter you might want to look at some programs that are more targeted to your goals on the bike. If you are doing MTB you might want more short punchy power vs being able to put down a steady amount over a few hours.
So much useful info! Thank you!
I think it's ok in some gears as like I said it feels smooth and quiet. In other gears there's a definite "lumpiness" to the drive which translates to a lot of noise being transmitted down into the floor via the trainer - not sure if this would address your concern, I honestly don't know enough about this stuff.
Good to know about the splines issue - defo won't be buying that 11-51 for this then :D
Aim is just general fitness, endurance. I'm not looking to do any really crazy MTB stuff, just ride along with friends along trails without dying on the uphills - and use this as motivation to get fit and lose weight in general.
 
I think it's ok in some gears as like I said it feels smooth and quiet. In other gears there's a definite "lumpiness" to the drive which translates to a lot of noise being transmitted down into the floor via the trainer - not sure if this would address your concern, I honestly don't know enough about this stuff.

If you are using ERG mode all the time then you just ned a single cog. Bare in mind that the cog you use all the time will get worn quite quickly as the load isn't being spread between them like normal. As to whether thats OK, just have a look at the chain as it wraps around the cassette and if it sits nicely and evenly in the valleys of all the cogs equally then its probably OK.

Your other option if you have the space is to just get a cheapo road bike that fits you and works and stick that on the trainer permanently. As long as its the right size and shifts gears OK it will work. You never know, you might even like it and start to venture out onto the road and lust after a more figure hugging attire...

Aim is just general fitness, endurance. I'm not looking to do any really crazy MTB stuff, just ride along with friends along trails without dying on the uphills - and use this as motivation to get fit and lose weight in general.

General fitness is good but you will come to a point where perhaps you still get gassed on hard uphills because you need a little power and a fatigued set of legs won't appreciate that no matter how good your general fitness is. That is probably a way off though so I wouldn't worry.
 
Early on it is best just to do anything that will give a large number of cyclists at your level. The zwift tour would work well.

Training programs will help when gains stagnate, but really the more you ride the better. So best to just enjoy it.
 
Early on it is best just to do anything that will give a large number of cyclists at your level. The zwift tour would work well.

Training programs will help when gains stagnate, but really the more you ride the better. So best to just enjoy it.
To be honest I'm more motivated by gamification and measurable improvements than by group work, so the program is right up my alley - especially as it doesn't allow me to overtrain as I would probably try to push too hard in a group.

I've compared my first foundation ride (last week monday) to yesterday's foundation ride, which was longer and higher cadence requirements but mostly the same power.
Last week: 41 minutes, average power 70W, HR max 161 average 147, 40% in zone 4
This week: 54 minutes, average power 73W, HW max 156 average 146, 21% in zone 4

Looks like progress in terms of heart rate there :) Shouldn't be in zone 4 at all on this particular ride, but it's getting better.

Or am I oversimplifying things?
 
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Or am I oversimplifying things?

You're overcomplicating things :p

At this point you will get quick gains. Understanding zones, heart rates etc requires quite a bit of knowledge and more importantly, you have to have accurate data to be able to use it. For example, if your max heart rate is wrong then your zones will be wrong. If your FTP is wrong then workouts will be too hard or too easy and you won't get the correct training effect from them.

At this point, just ride. Do what you fancy. Follow and program and you will get those noob gains. I'm still very much in the same arena of getting gains and losses quite quickly and I'm trying not to get stuck in the weeds too much. Time in the saddle will benefit you massively. Micromanaging won't do you any good. Once the weather gets nicer, get out on the trails as much as possible.
 
Are dd turbos harder to cycle on? Or is it just me being weak? I swear I really have to concentrate to maintain a decent cadence and my power output feels like it’s more work.

Impressed with the Zwift hub though, nice bit of kit.
Yes they are. There's 'nowhere to hide' with a DD, no easy miles as gotta keep that chain tight! ;)

The Vortex (like any other Wheel On) are not accurate. I know they quote accuracy levels like 5%, but that is taken at a steady state over a long period. Without being able to quantify/measure it otherwise you can't compare. My experience on the Vortex for example I could do massive 800-1000W surges by spinning it up and overpowering the resistance unit, then while the thing tried to catch back up it kept the power up probably quite a bit higher than I was putting out. Hardly anyone on a DD could match it (racing Cat B early days). My FTP was around 270-280W on it. When I came to a DD my FTP was 240W and my sprints not much over 650W... But your YMMV!

I guess so I just, wan to know :p. I've done FTP tests with a power meter (borrowed) and am reasonably confident my FTP is right, I think I'll borrow a pwm to just try and compare numbers.

I still feel like vomiting after a race, so I think its working :p.
A Stages crank arm, or some pedals are quite an easy thing to borrow and verify against.

Can confirm, vomit feeling does not go away. Won TTT in part of the 'ZRL Finals' and had to do height & weight verification for WTRL last week. Passed it so have a cool 'ZRL Winner' helmet in my wardrobe. :cool:

As you say, gaining power and losing weight is a bugger of a combo!
Definitely, almost impossible to do both as a 'leisure' cyclist like us (unless using some specific focussed training for it)...! Yourself excluded @Shadowness as I consider you a semi-professional ;)

Surely the point if W/kg is the weight is less important. In fact, if we was really heavy it would surely be more impressive than if he was very light? Someone weighing 50kg pushing 125W all the way up a climb surely isn't impressive. Someone weighing 140kg pushing 350W all the way sounds better I would say :p
Someone at 50kg outputting 125W may take marginally less 'effort' than someone 140kg outputting 350W, but it is marginal and the energy required should be considered equal. The two 'ends' of the spectrum like those, things do tend to 'muddy' - just as you saying not a really 'heavy' rider where 125W seems far less than 350W, for you, because it is. But 375W (3.75w/kg) for someone at 80kg, should be a similar 'effort' as 262W for someone at 70kg (3.74w/kg).

I regularly TTT with a guy weighing 53kg. He's a monster, as he's able to sustain some good power and even stay with us heavier 70kg+ guys when sprinting. His climbing is impressive - but equally I only find it impressive as largely the stuff he's riding in TTT's is not sustained long gradient stuff where his low weight gives him a massive difference to the rest of the team. It's all mostly 'power' climbs - short steep ramps and the momentum heavier riders have compared to him, he is able to match. But I still need to call him back sometimes as he just floats away up anything without really 'attacking' it like heavier riders need to. His ~200W off the front (3.77w/kg) and holding himself back is fairly equal to my ~300W chasing (3.94w/kg) in a climbing situation on TT bikes...

Pre-baby I was up to 2.8 but now I'm at 2.4. Hoping now I can get more regular cycling in I can get close to 3 again. I'll never be racing but I just want to be competent.
Finding a 'level' and being consistent with performances, nailing your recovery and having repeatable efforts is a big thing. That doesn't have to be a high level - you don't need to be pushing big number or high W/G. The numbers will come back with 'training' but as for anything prior to that riding regularly and 'finding the level' you're at should be the biggest aim/concern. When you are, do a Ramp/FTP test to get a number (or a maxed out 20+ minute effort somewhere) if you 'need' one. Then figure out what you wanna do with it! :D;)

A word of warning about Best 100 Climbs #89, the section https://www.strava.com/segments/32769421 is brutal, while using my easiest gear (34/34) an awful lot to take it almost as easy as possible it was a nasty ~10mins https://www.strava.com/activities/7742432671/analysis/5031/5647 ... The good news is that after this most brutal section you have ~1 mile of descent including a crossroads where you don't have way as the road levels out before you need to find your legs and lungs again.

The Rouvy AR version is pretty decent, a fraction easier than the real thing, but good for recce and training https://my.rouvy.com/virtual-routes/detail/36075
Tenuious link, almost thought you'd got the wrong thread! ;)

It looks a good climb, but doesn't look that tough in isolation, but when you consider it as part of this segment ('road to hell') it's quite well known as a tough combination of climbs and route.

The top of the belt on my Kickr 2018 seems to be wearing. Is this normal?
Replacing belts on the KICKR is not uncommon. I've not dug into it yet but looks easier to do than on the TACX Flux I had. There must be guides and sources online, usually my first port of call is trawling FB 'owner' groups.

Saw this fluid turbo trainer on sale so thought i'd give Zwift a go, had to build up a rear road wheel to use it but it's working well now, just did a 20k ride on it and felt like i was going to die and i have never sweat so much in my life :D

Only issue is im just out of gear to hit anything over 350w


Welcome! Sweet setup! :D

My only comment would be using 'off road gearing' on Zwift which is largely road focussed. The drivechain you're using just lacking the 'speed' of a road groupset. So you're unlikely to use 75% of your gears and finding you've 'not got enough' when things get faster. It really only matters when not using ERG and gears more, so really when you try to compare to others on the platform - group rides & racing, you'll come up against it.

Just did a ramp test before I start a zwift training program and got and FTP of 241. Much higher than I expected. Was expecting 210-220. Unfortunately I am about 85kg so not particularly impressive. Just in time for a couple of babies to turn up and ruin everything! :p

Hows your FTP doing these days @Junglist ?
Nice work and good number to work from. Hell I don't mean that as a silly comment either - I've barely increased my FTP the last season - 255W ish to around 265W so not massive. But I am probably at a power level now I've not seen since 2016-17 when I was quite new and the powermeter possibly not that consistent, nor the smart trainer I also measured against. BUT the level I'm at now is at 76kg. Around 5+kg lower than back then, with a much more rounded 'power profile' I'm finding it lots of fun racing at around 3.4w/kg. My efforts are very consistent now and seem to be Recovering properly, feel that matters quite a lot too.

Seems silly to say but I think I'm at 'the best I've ever been', but that is largely Zwift based comparisons. Need some work to find my climbing legs outside, but I always do this time of year...

Also, saddles. Jeeeeeezus, my poor nether regions! Does it get better?
Yes, but the saddle and shorts combo you'll find the 'best' is quite unique to you. Padded shorts (no underwear under them!) is probably the first massive revelation to new riders & comfort.

You're overcomplicating things :p

At this point you will get quick gains. Understanding zones, heart rates etc requires quite a bit of knowledge and more importantly, you have to have accurate data to be able to use it. For example, if your max heart rate is wrong then your zones will be wrong. If your FTP is wrong then workouts will be too hard or too easy and you won't get the correct training effect from them.

At this point, just ride. Do what you fancy. Follow and program and you will get those noob gains. I'm still very much in the same arena of getting gains and losses quite quickly and I'm trying not to get stuck in the weeds too much. Time in the saddle will benefit you massively. Micromanaging won't do you any good. Once the weather gets nicer, get out on the trails as much as possible.
^^^ This is quality sound advice for anyone starting out!

'Newbie gains' are massive. You'll get them regardless of what you're doing, providing you settle into riding fairly regularly and for the 'right reasons' you'll find them. So just have fun, do what riding makes it fun and repeatable, at least until you want different challenges or find yourself not improving (plateaux) then focus on more structure and specifics (if that's what you need).
 
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I regularly TTT with a guy weighing 53kg. He's a monster, as he's able to sustain some good power and even stay with us heavier 70kg+ guys when sprinting. His climbing is impressive - but equally I only find it impressive as largely the stuff he's riding in TTT's is not sustained long gradient stuff where his low weight gives him a massive difference to the rest of the team. It's all mostly 'power' climbs - short steep ramps and the momentum heavier riders have compared to him, he is able to match. But I still need to call him back sometimes as he just floats away up anything without really 'attacking' it like heavier riders need to. His ~200W off the front (3.77w/kg) and holding himself back is fairly equal to my ~300W chasing (3.94w/kg) in a climbing situation on TT bikes...
Personally, I think that agrees with what I'm saying. The original point was 2.5 w/kg isn't a lot unless you're light. I'm saying if you're light it's actually even less (125W is definitely less than 300W :p)

I think I would bet if you checked pros, the lighter guys FTP's would be higher as W/kg than the heavier guys, who would maybe have higher W/kg for shorter times, but probably not as their FTP. Some interesting graphs here.
 
Ahh OK, 12 speed is still quite expensive. I don't think there is a good way around that honestly. Potentially you could run a 12 speed shimano road cassette on the trainer (about £60) but it still wouldn't change happily due to the mech being designed for a large spread of gears 11-51 and the road one being for 11-34. Might work OK but to save £30 probably not a good enough solution to make it worthwhile. Just checked and I can't actually see a way to mount 12 speed shimano cassettes onto the zwift hub. You need a microspline freehub body which they don't sell from what I can see. Shimano road 12 speed uses the standard freehub interface but their MTB uses microspline.

Just be a little careful as apparently you can run into issues with a 12 speed chain and 11 speed cassette. Check that the chain is sitting nicely on the cassette and in all the teeth evenly as it does when you have the proper rear wheel/cassette in there.
Just to close the loop on this one i found a recommendation on a Zwift forum to use a Sram NX eagle 11x50 12 speed cassette - compatible with my drivetrain and with the zwift freehub.
A brief lesson in "holy crap, these things are actually made out of a lot of pieces not at all attached together in any way" later, I have smooth shifting and running all the way through the gear range :)
 
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So had a bit of a cycling hiatus through the summer but now the weather is turning I'm getting back into zwift. Bodyweight up and power down so Zwift has let me back into cat D for enforced events, previously rode in C, had a few podiums and even won one on Monday! Been great for the self esteem.
Actually as I type this I am looking at the events page and seems I am again unable to compete in D. Oh well, fun while it lasted.

Anyway.. I'm level 30 with almost 6,500km done so not a noob as such but how do you send a ride on to everyone all at the same time? It's been bugging me for years. I zwift through Apple TV and always have the companion app open on my phone which I keep on my bike. On the app there are a few icons including a ride on thumb but pressing it seems to do nothing.

Also I was racing the other day, got pipped to the win by a guy who made up 45 metres on me in 150m. I looked for him on Strava after via the manage group link and he had a video uploaded of him overtaking me rather than a static screenshot. How would he have done that?
 
how do you send a ride on to everyone all at the same time?
On the map view, just double tap yourself. I think it gives the nearest 5 people a Ride On.
I looked for him on Strava after via the manage group link and he had a video uploaded of him overtaking me rather than a static screenshot.
I think Zwift just takes select moments and offers them up, like it does some stills. I'm not sure though, this is quite new and I don't even know if I've Zwifted since they added it.
 
Also I was racing the other day, got pipped to the win by a guy who made up 45 metres on me in 150m. I looked for him on Strava after via the manage group link and he had a video uploaded of him overtaking me rather than a static screenshot. How would he have done that?
I think the new video clip thing has been introduced for some iOS and Mac users first, with Android/PC/Apple TV to follow.
https://zwiftinsider.com/video-snippets/ gives an explanation of how it works/will work
 
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