The MSI Neo2 Platinum Owners Help Thread
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AC Power
1st off, I just read this entire thread! 2nd, I hope some ppl can help me and 3rd, er, just help TIA!
@MAllen
Could u please elaborate as to how you sorted yer freaky mains power up issue as I have a similar problem. Mine acts similarly to a server board in that u can power up by either holding the soft power on or pressing it after mains power up, either way the PC springs to life when mains is supplied.
@Ali_Longden
Did u get yer issues resolved as your 'Problem2' is again similar to my issue.
@Everyone
Does anyone else have this power issue or is it RMA time?
[Edit] Apologies! The board appears to run ok once I press the soft power button and I even managed to Winflash the BIOS from the supplied 1.4 up to the 1.5. Its just that in my experience, this type of power up usually means a ******* board.
1st off, I just read this entire thread! 2nd, I hope some ppl can help me and 3rd, er, just help TIA!
@MAllen
Could u please elaborate as to how you sorted yer freaky mains power up issue as I have a similar problem. Mine acts similarly to a server board in that u can power up by either holding the soft power on or pressing it after mains power up, either way the PC springs to life when mains is supplied.
@Ali_Longden
Did u get yer issues resolved as your 'Problem2' is again similar to my issue.
@Everyone
Does anyone else have this power issue or is it RMA time?
[Edit] Apologies! The board appears to run ok once I press the soft power button and I even managed to Winflash the BIOS from the supplied 1.4 up to the 1.5. Its just that in my experience, this type of power up usually means a ******* board.
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Hi Joey,
My Power Issue was nothing to do with the MSI motherboard. In my situation I had an eight month old Tagan 480W PSU which had been working fine for months in my other motherboard. But when I tried to use it on the MSI it caused problems. These problems were traced down to a fault in the PSU's 12V P4 connector (that small four pin square one). The place I bought it from has RMA'd it and confirmed the fault in their test.
As my old motherboard did not use the 12v P4 connector, it wasn't an issue before.
I don't think you are seeing the same issue I did. Mine issue totally ignored the ATX power switch. No matter when or how it was pressed in. Wouldn't even turn off when held in for 20 secs. All that occured was an instant starting of all fans as mains lead attached. Borked PSU.
So - to solve it I simply got hold of another power supply and used that instead. Absolutly no troubles at all once the new PSU was used.
IMPORTANTLY: your PSU MUST supply at least 20A on the 12volt rail. Too far below this and you could hit problems. The MSI is a quality board, so needs lots of quality power.
So, to repeat, my issue was purely with a broken power supply. The MSI board was not at fault. In your case I would ask - what is your power supply? And what kind of amps are available? There will be a little chart on the side of the PSU and it is advised to have "At least 20Amp on the 12Volt rail."
My Power Issue was nothing to do with the MSI motherboard. In my situation I had an eight month old Tagan 480W PSU which had been working fine for months in my other motherboard. But when I tried to use it on the MSI it caused problems. These problems were traced down to a fault in the PSU's 12V P4 connector (that small four pin square one). The place I bought it from has RMA'd it and confirmed the fault in their test.
As my old motherboard did not use the 12v P4 connector, it wasn't an issue before.
I don't think you are seeing the same issue I did. Mine issue totally ignored the ATX power switch. No matter when or how it was pressed in. Wouldn't even turn off when held in for 20 secs. All that occured was an instant starting of all fans as mains lead attached. Borked PSU.
So - to solve it I simply got hold of another power supply and used that instead. Absolutly no troubles at all once the new PSU was used.
IMPORTANTLY: your PSU MUST supply at least 20A on the 12volt rail. Too far below this and you could hit problems. The MSI is a quality board, so needs lots of quality power.
So, to repeat, my issue was purely with a broken power supply. The MSI board was not at fault. In your case I would ask - what is your power supply? And what kind of amps are available? There will be a little chart on the side of the PSU and it is advised to have "At least 20Amp on the 12Volt rail."
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Why so much current. Well, the Thermaltake PSU I have only has 18A on the +12V rail. However, the SilenX one I have HAS 20A on the +12V rail so how come it does exactly the same thing when connected to that?
[EDIT] Jeez, I just reread this post and realised it comes across as quite cheeky, my sincere apologies to anyone who may have been offended.
[EDIT] Jeez, I just reread this post and realised it comes across as quite cheeky, my sincere apologies to anyone who may have been offended.
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Well, I am going on the recommendation of "at least 20A". And I have always noticed a difference using a quality PSU with pleanty of jucie to spare. Espcially with the power requirements on these new processors.
To be brutally honest though, the Thermaltake PSU that I have installed at the moment also has 18A. It is probally the same as yours - "Silent PurePower 480W W0100"? Seems to do the job well enough as I have had no crashes so far.
But when my Tagan arrives, that is going back in.
As to your problems, I am not clear on what is happening to you. Have you checked the power settings in the BIOS? i.e. what is it set to do when you press the button?
To be brutally honest though, the Thermaltake PSU that I have installed at the moment also has 18A. It is probally the same as yours - "Silent PurePower 480W W0100"? Seems to do the job well enough as I have had no crashes so far.
But when my Tagan arrives, that is going back in.
As to your problems, I am not clear on what is happening to you. Have you checked the power settings in the BIOS? i.e. what is it set to do when you press the button?
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Whats the onboard sound like on the Neo2 ? I have soundstorm at the moment on my NF7-s v2
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@ jaqdabadman
The OB sound is crappy AC97, although as I haven't had my board up and running properly yet, I can't attest to its audio quality!
@ MAllen
It is pretty much the same PSU its the silver Xaser one without the lights! Since December I was running it with an ASUS A8V Deluxe, an ASUS GeForce 6800GE (with the pipes unlocked) 2x Maxtor 200Gb, one Maxtor 120Gb w/8Mb cache, Soundblaster Audigy 2 oem, 1Gb of really bad Adata 3200 RAM and an Athlon 3000+ Winnie, with an incredibly bad week, ie. week 41! 
I could get 2200 out of it prime stable and 2400 3DMark stable but I'd still get occasional irksome crashes from time to time at that speed. However, thats still doesn't explain why the board does the same thing with the 460W SilenX Luxurae. Is it possible to have damaged the board by not having just enough juice? I didn't even OC or have all these things connected as I was just testing it out! I have organised an RMA and will be shipping it tomorrow, I will keep yous posted if it defo is a fault.
[EDIT]
Tagan TG420-U01 420W ATX2.0 Silent PSU (CA-002-TG)
Is this the PSU you guys are on about? Whats the deal with 24/8 pin ATX, is there an adapter to take it back down to 20/4?
The OB sound is crappy AC97, although as I haven't had my board up and running properly yet, I can't attest to its audio quality!
@ MAllen
It is pretty much the same PSU
its the silver Xaser one without the lights! Since December I was running it with an ASUS A8V Deluxe, an ASUS GeForce 6800GE (with the pipes unlocked) 2x Maxtor 200Gb, one Maxtor 120Gb w/8Mb cache, Soundblaster Audigy 2 oem, 1Gb of really bad Adata 3200 RAM and an Athlon 3000+ Winnie, with an incredibly bad week, ie. week 41! I could get 2200 out of it prime stable and 2400 3DMark stable but I'd still get occasional irksome crashes from time to time at that speed. However, thats still doesn't explain why the board does the same thing with the 460W SilenX Luxurae. Is it possible to have damaged the board by not having just enough juice? I didn't even OC or have all these things connected as I was just testing it out! I have organised an RMA and will be shipping it tomorrow, I will keep yous posted if it defo is a fault.
[EDIT]
Tagan TG420-U01 420W ATX2.0 Silent PSU (CA-002-TG)
Is this the PSU you guys are on about? Whats the deal with 24/8 pin ATX, is there an adapter to take it back down to 20/4?
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My Tagan was the 480W model. On my one there is a chunky connnector attached to the 24pin (server) plug to convert it down to a 20pin (normal) plug. Though, from what I have read, they have now changed this to a new connector where you "clip on" the extra four pins when you need them.
As to the 4pin P4 connector, there is also a 8pin server connector as well. Both of these are availble. Basically you can use Tagan PSUs on servers or desktops.
As to the 4pin P4 connector, there is also a 8pin server connector as well. Both of these are availble. Basically you can use Tagan PSUs on servers or desktops.
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MAllen said:
Off topic here but I have a problem with a Tagen psu, I have e mailed the service dept 3 times now the first time being 2 weeks ago, how did you go on with the service dept.
Thanks and sorry for going off topic.
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JoeySchmidt said:@Ali_Longden
Did u get yer issues resolved as your 'Problem2' is again similar to my issue.
No this mobo is pap!
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My PC wouldn't boot into windows earlier. Tried all the usual suspects, then plugged in the D-Bracket. Told me the Floppy Drive wasn't working or couldn't be found. Plugged in different floppy and cable. Same problem. So how did I get it working? Plugged a fan onto the Northbridge fan header! The D-Bracket is very useful. 
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@kimandsally
Its not off topic, I thought u had the same mobo. But anyway it save starting a whole 'How do get on with the Tagan helpdesk' thread! Don't fret!
@Ali_Longden
Now this isn't off topic but its entirely counter productive to this thread as its completely useless info. You could've just said, 'No I don't own that board anymore, I got a new one'. That would've sufficed instead of taking ONE bad experience and writing them off. The things is, these things are mass produced so theres bound to be a small percentage of them that go a bit awry. It seems that if you get one you think they're all the same. Not a great attitude. Just look at the forum title and decide what you type before you do so. It says 'help forum' not '**** MSI off forum'. OK, rant over!
@onemoresolo
Can't u stop the NB Fan connector from detection in the BIOS? Just so u can unplug that again if need be.
Its not off topic, I thought u had the same mobo. But anyway it save starting a whole 'How do get on with the Tagan helpdesk' thread! Don't fret!
@Ali_Longden
Now this isn't off topic but its entirely counter productive to this thread as its completely useless info. You could've just said, 'No I don't own that board anymore, I got a new one'. That would've sufficed instead of taking ONE bad experience and writing them off. The things is, these things are mass produced so theres bound to be a small percentage of them that go a bit awry. It seems that if you get one you think they're all the same. Not a great attitude. Just look at the forum title and decide what you type before you do so. It says 'help forum' not '**** MSI off forum'. OK, rant over!
@onemoresolo
Can't u stop the NB Fan connector from detection in the BIOS? Just so u can unplug that again if need be.
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You need to read the whole thread, Solo. A mere 29 pages 
The "Floppy fault" on the d-bracket seems to be a little bit of a catch all for disk problems. Hard disks (well my Maxtors at least) require to be placed on Cable Select before they'll consider working. Also, my Neo2 doesn't like working with SATA converters.
You may have a fault with the Floppy though.
Remove connections to the CD-ROM. Strip out any extra hard disks, switch the remaining disk to CS. Double check the floppy connection. Also notice the shoddy placement of the IDE headers (with respect to the ATX power one). This can make possible that one end of the header may have come adrift. Something to check anyway.
Once you've got it booting start putting the disks back, one at a time (all of them on Cable Select).
The "Floppy fault" on the d-bracket seems to be a little bit of a catch all for disk problems. Hard disks (well my Maxtors at least) require to be placed on Cable Select before they'll consider working. Also, my Neo2 doesn't like working with SATA converters.
You may have a fault with the Floppy though.
Remove connections to the CD-ROM. Strip out any extra hard disks, switch the remaining disk to CS. Double check the floppy connection. Also notice the shoddy placement of the IDE headers (with respect to the ATX power one). This can make possible that one end of the header may have come adrift. Something to check anyway.
Once you've got it booting start putting the disks back, one at a time (all of them on Cable Select).
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AAARRRGGGHH!! The dreaded cable select. 
Is that ABSOLUTELY necesssary? Please tell me its not true!
Is that ABSOLUTELY necesssary? Please tell me its not true!
Just use CS as part of an experiment. Sometimes getting a machine right is a bit of Black Magic and breaking of known good rules. Personally I always avoid CS as it slows things down and some drives don't like it. (Though I am using SCSI with this board, so have all of the dozens of IDE, RAID and SATA controllers turned off. Whole swathes of unused silicon....)
When things are going wrong for me, I try every option. Then, when I get it working, I go back through my list of changes and see if I really needed all of them. Removing those that didn't actually have any effect.
Once all options have been tried, including swapping with alternate components and underclocking, then it may be time to blame the board.
When things are going wrong for me, I try every option. Then, when I get it working, I go back through my list of changes and see if I really needed all of them. Removing those that didn't actually have any effect.
Once all options have been tried, including swapping with alternate components and underclocking, then it may be time to blame the board.
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I just got my replacement board back and I'm basically looking for a bit of advice.
Should I use the Thermaltake 480W PSU or should I wait and get a Tagan or OCZ?
Should I use the Thermaltake 480W PSU or should I wait and get a Tagan or OCZ?
Well, the Thermaltake I bought as a temp stand-in for my RMAing Tagan is doing a fine job. Nice and quiet, and even though it is rated at 18A on the 12volt rail, it hasn't failed me yet. I would recommend it, and if you already own one - then try it out before dishing out extra cash on something new.
Look at my sig and you'll see chunky kit in this box. Specifically those two 10,000rpm SCSI drives and it's SCSI card. In total there are two fast hard drives, a CD-Writer, DVD player, cooldrive with it's fan and LCD screen, four case fans, one CPU fan, one graphics fan, one SCSI fan, and the Northbridge fan. That is on top of normal things like graphics card needing it's own molex connector....
Oh... and the neon light and leds on the fans....
In fact, I now have a brand new Tagan PSU sitting here and I am wondering if I can be arsed to swap out the Thermaltake for it. Especially as this one has pesky sheilded PCI Express connectors instead of a sheiled standard molex I need for my GeForceFX 5900XT.
[Edit...] LOL funny how my advice has changed over this single page. One minute I am saying "20A" then I go on about my "18A" Thermaltake. Key thing here is that it is working fine. Though I don't know what the difference will be once I start pushing harder into the overclocking.
Look at my sig and you'll see chunky kit in this box. Specifically those two 10,000rpm SCSI drives and it's SCSI card. In total there are two fast hard drives, a CD-Writer, DVD player, cooldrive with it's fan and LCD screen, four case fans, one CPU fan, one graphics fan, one SCSI fan, and the Northbridge fan. That is on top of normal things like graphics card needing it's own molex connector....
Oh... and the neon light and leds on the fans....
In fact, I now have a brand new Tagan PSU sitting here and I am wondering if I can be arsed to swap out the Thermaltake for it. Especially as this one has pesky sheilded PCI Express connectors instead of a sheiled standard molex I need for my GeForceFX 5900XT.
[Edit...] LOL
funny how my advice has changed over this single page. One minute I am saying "20A" then I go on about my "18A" Thermaltake. Key thing here is that it is working fine. Though I don't know what the difference will be once I start pushing harder into the overclocking.
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Right, I know everyone goes on about the SATA 1&2 not being locked. How is this possible and is there a way around it to OC a system with more than 2 SATA drives in it?
If it requires a BIOS flash then lets all shout at MSI!
The reason I'm asking is that I got my replacement board thru and SATA 3 doesn't work and I just bought a week 46 oem 3200+ from OcUK and was hoping to OC my system. However, if this not possible then I'm at a loss as I cannot afford to reRMA the board.
If it requires a BIOS flash then lets all shout at MSI!
The reason I'm asking is that I got my replacement board thru and SATA 3 doesn't work and I just bought a week 46 oem 3200+ from OcUK and was hoping to OC my system. However, if this not possible then I'm at a loss as I cannot afford to reRMA the board.