The official Philips BDM4065UC thread

If 'Fast' does indeed increase conventional trailing (that is to say slow some transitions down) then that is a Philips issue. I had expected this panel to be particularly slow natively and to respond poorly to grey to grey acceleration as it's an Innolux panel I believe. Definitely not AUO or Samsung at any rate.
 
from my tests so far the response times are actually best with "smart response" set to Off. they average about 8ms G2G from a small sample set (let me confirm from bigger sample later) which is actually very good for a VA panel. All the other settings including Fast, faster, and fastest introduce progressively larger amounts of overshoot. so thats what users are seeing when they say they actually show more ghosting. the response times are sped up, but the overshoot is horrendous as you get up to the higher settings. even at the first "fast" setting, it's pretty high. I think sticking with off is actually preferrable but let me run some more tests later

and for those who have spotted the plastic wrap on the lower bezel behind the philips plastic section, you can quite easily remove it. if you unscrew all the screws on the back of the screen the back literally just comes off, no plastic clips or anything to pop out. so if you take that off you can remove the front philips plastic section and then remove the plastic wrap easily :) not hard to do at all
 
Baddass said:
from my tests so far the response times are actually best with "smart response" set to Off. they average about 8ms G2G from a small sample set (let me confirm from bigger sample later) which is actually very good for a VA panel. All the other settings including Fast, faster, and fastest introduce progressively larger amounts of overshoot. so thats what users are seeing when they say they actually show more ghosting. the response times are sped up, but the overshoot is horrendous as you get up to the higher settings. even at the first "fast" setting, it's pretty high. I think sticking with off is actually preferrable but let me run some more tests later

and for those who have spotted the plastic wrap on the lower bezel behind the philips plastic section, you can quite easily remove it. if you unscrew all the screws on the back of the screen the back literally just comes off, no plastic clips or anything to pop out. so if you take that off you can remove the front philips plastic section and then remove the plastic wrap easily :) not hard to do at all
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Very interesting. Sounds like a not so smart response setting then. Really looking forward to your full review next year. :)
 
Baddass said:
from my tests so far the response times are actually best with "smart response" set to Off. they average about 8ms G2G from a small sample set (let me confirm from bigger sample later) which is actually very good for a VA panel. All the other settings including Fast, faster, and fastest introduce progressively larger amounts of overshoot. so thats what users are seeing when they say they actually show more ghosting. the response times are sped up, but the overshoot is horrendous as you get up to the higher settings. even at the first "fast" setting, it's pretty high. I think sticking with off is actually preferrable but let me run some more tests later

and for those who have spotted the plastic wrap on the lower bezel behind the philips plastic section, you can quite easily remove it. if you unscrew all the screws on the back of the screen the back literally just comes off, no plastic clips or anything to pop out. so if you take that off you can remove the front philips plastic section and then remove the plastic wrap easily :) not hard to do at all
Click to expand...

ok Thanks. is it possible to remove the front Phillips permanently ? but it got LED light which i don't know if it is possible or not.
 
Baddass said:
from my tests so far the response times are actually best with "smart response" set to Off. they average about 8ms G2G from a small sample set (let me confirm from bigger sample later) which is actually very good for a VA panel. All the other settings including Fast, faster, and fastest introduce progressively larger amounts of overshoot. so thats what users are seeing when they say they actually show more ghosting. the response times are sped up, but the overshoot is horrendous as you get up to the higher settings. even at the first "fast" setting, it's pretty high. I think sticking with off is actually preferrable but let me run some more tests later
Click to expand...

I agree with this, not from any scientific point of view but I was playing a game last night and with smart on at the various settings I found some textures on buildings had a very strange appearance come over them as I moved past them quickly.

It was so noticeable that I've turned it off permanently.

Using the screen last night for gaming I certainly noticed the deep blacks and rich colours that others have talked about but in FPS's I did seem to have problem tagging people in close range (you know the little gun firing circle dance), it just didn't seem smooth enough to hit people properly.

I was on UHD resolution (constant 40-50fps) but I'll try it again tonight after I've installed a 970GTX and see what that does to help!

I also need to colour calibrate it today to see how it is for accurate colour, we'll be printing later today so I'll compare it then (assuming we have good enough daylight to check the prints).

I have the plastic wrap around mine as well, I haven't tried to remove it yet, hopefully it'll be easy enough, thanks for the tip Baddass! :D

Oh, I also experienced the not waking up from hibernation this morning, switching it on and off didn't help but pressing the joystick at the back seemed to wake it up and it was fine then. :)
 
studulike said:
ok Thanks. is it possible to remove the front Phillips permanently ? but it got LED light which i don't know if it is possible or not.
Click to expand...

i dont believe so, as a couple of screws from the back go through to hold that in place. will take it apart again soon and check
 
So is the smart response stuff something they could possibly address in firmware update?

Not too fussed either way, as I find it good enough for me, but if it's something we can get improved, well, I am never one to complain about something being better :)
 
possibly fixable in future releases i suppose if they tweak the overdrive control. whether they would is another question really. i doubt they can really drive response times down much without introducing overshoot on this kind of panel tech. the "off" setting probably delivers response times about as good as you can get from the panel, and then each additional fast setting just pushes overdrive progressively further to try and reduce them more, but at the cost of overshoot.

also, if they did update the model later on i doubt very much there'd be any process for existing users to be able to update their original versions
 
One thing I was wondering about was screen burn.

When you switch the monitor on it flashes up with a warning about screen burn if a static image is left on for 30 minutes, seems mad on an LCD and not something I thought I had to worry except for plasma screens.

When playing games with a HUD the same pixels are going to be illuminated for potentially hours, is that something that's going to cause a problem? Are we likely to start seeing cross-hairs in the middle of our screens constantly?
 
Thank you Baddass. I am looking forward to your review .

my current setting are

Brightness 30
Contrast 60
Sharpness 60
SmartResponse Off
SmarContrast Off
Gamma 2.2
Pixel Orbiting Off
Over Scan Off
Colour Temperature 6500k Mode ( as sRGB mode fixed Brightness at 100 which too bright for me )
 
TheBigCheese said:
One thing I was wondering about was screen burn.

When you switch the monitor on it flashes up with a warning about screen burn if a static image is left on for 30 minutes, seems mad on an LCD and not something I thought I had to worry except for plasma screens.

When playing games with a HUD the same pixels are going to be illuminated for potentially hours, is that something that's going to cause a problem? Are we likely to start seeing cross-hairs in the middle of our screens constantly?
Click to expand...

that and the pixel orbitting function confused me too. thats normally something used on plasma screens. this is supposed to be LED backlit so shouldn't experience the same problems. maybe it's a software OSD hang over from some TV models which were plasma backlit and they've just moved the same software over for this LED backlit monitor? to be safe, i'd set windows to turn monitor off after 10 mins of inactivity i suppose (for power saving too).
 
Baddass said:
from my tests so far the response times are actually best with "smart response" set to Off. they average about 8ms G2G from a small sample set (let me confirm from bigger sample later) which is actually very good for a VA panel. All the other settings including Fast, faster, and fastest introduce progressively larger amounts of overshoot. so thats what users are seeing when they say they actually show more ghosting. the response times are sped up, but the overshoot is horrendous as you get up to the higher settings. even at the first "fast" setting, it's pretty high. I think sticking with off is actually preferrable but let me run some more tests later

and for those who have spotted the plastic wrap on the lower bezel behind the philips plastic section, you can quite easily remove it. if you unscrew all the screws on the back of the screen the back literally just comes off, no plastic clips or anything to pop out. so if you take that off you can remove the front philips plastic section and then remove the plastic wrap easily :) not hard to do at all
Click to expand...

thanks for the info Baddass - respect your reviews and trying to decide if this is what I want for my christmas/birthday present :)

curious if I can drive this with 1 970gtx even with all settings on low but 4k (if that makes sense).
 
Baddass said:
that and the pixel orbitting function confused me too. thats normally something used on plasma screens. this is supposed to be LED backlit so shouldn't experience the same problems. maybe it's a software OSD hang over from some TV models which were plasma backlit and they've just moved the same software over for this LED backlit monitor? to be safe, i'd set windows to turn monitor off after 10 mins of inactivity i suppose (for power saving too).
Click to expand...

Long term image retention/burn in happens to LCDs too, it's not just plasmas though obviously they are much more susceptible to it.
Have a Samsung TV that is LCD (not LED) with screen burn sitting right by me now. :)
 
Think too tired to enjoy this at all much tonight... Might get it put on arm, and connect up the ps3 and try a bluray.

May not even bother with the arm and go straight to bluray...

Imagine it will have a bit of judder as doubt it handles 24 fps properly.
 
Hello all,

I am following this topic with a lot of interest because I am thinking of buying 2 of this screens for a dual-monitor configuration, mainly for work (work that involves having over 10 different windows open at the same time, most of the time).

Looking forward to the review from tftcentral.co.uk but before I am a little worried about the 'burn-in' effect (in my configuration the second display would mostly display static windows for long periods of time, sometimes even over a couple of hours).

I red in-deed that normally it shouldn't be an issue for LED displays but from the feedback here it seems it is. I also found this in the manual:

Important information for Burn-in/Ghost image

Always activate a moving screen saver program when you leave your Display unattended. Always activate a periodic screen refresh application if your Display will display unchanging static content. Uninterrupted display of still or static images over an extended period may cause “burn in”, also known as “after-imaging” or “ghost imaging”, on your screen.

“Burn-in”, “after-imaging”, or “ghost imaging” is a well-known phenomenon in LCD panel technology. In most cases, the “burned in” or “after-imaging” or “ghost imaging” will disappear gradually over a period of time after the power has been switched off.

Warning
Failure to activate a screen saver, or a periodic screen refresh application may result in severe “burn-in” or “after-image” or “ghost image” symptoms that will not disappear and cannot be repaired.The damage mentioned above is not covered under your warranty.
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(by the way, I didn't even know that there were "screen refresh applications", and didn't find any on Google...)

It seems very strange for a monitor as there is no way to avoid this (thinking of the OS bar, menus etc.)... And maybe this could hide an even bigger danger on the long run as the warning shouldn't apply to this technology?

On the bright side, I am on a Mac and with all the transparency stuff and the possibility to change the desktop picture every 30 minutes, it should do the trick but it still remains a concern as I do not understand why this is happening... and it makes me wonder if this is a good buy on the long term...

Tudor
 
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Ok, just stumble on this article, and it seems Philips has an obsession for this kind of effect on LCD screens, which makes me wonder if it is a Philips issue (from http://www.tweakguides.com/HDTV_8.html):

Contrary to popular belief, LCD-based TVs can also suffer from temporary image retention, and even a form of permanent image retention similar to burn-in. As we discussed earlier, LCD panels consist of a grid of liquid crystals which change shape to allow light from their backlight to filter through. If a static image is shown for sufficiently long periods with no rest, these crystals can retain a charge in such a way as to keep their twisted shape and not return to their natural rest state. Although usually temporary, in extreme cases it can become permanent, leaving a fixed image much the same as burn-in on plasmas. On an LCD this burn-in phenomenon is known as Image Sticking, and is described in more detail in this Philips White Paper. An example of severe LCD image sticking is shown here.
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The link for the Philips White Paper: http://www.business-sites.philips.c...echnology_and_image_retention_white_paper.pdf
 
Decided I needed to get it on the arm, and it looks much better, and leaves my eyes more in line with middle of screen. Will post some photos when I got things tidied a bit.

Also connected up the PS3, fired up avatar and it looked great. Obviously doesn't run 24fps as well as my tele with a bit of judder, but watching movies is an occasional thing.

I love using it as a 38 inch 21:9 screen for bf4 though.

Possibly the only thing I don't like is the connections all the way over on the left. Would rather they were further down, facing down, cause I am going to have to get a longer DisplayPort cable.
 
Still playing around and finding what works best for me.

I do leave pixel orbiting on, but still undecided whether to leave smart response on lowest or off. Probably leaning to off.

Smart contrast or whatever is called is off.

Colours, bright essential and contrast I won't list as these I am constantly playing with.

Going to leave on 100 brightness for now and just make sure am never playing without some ambient lighting.

I do however find I tend to keep red and green a bit lower than blue, as I like my white white, and otherwise they have a slight colour cast.
 
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