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The Pascal Titan X and XP Owners Thread

thing is with a high fpi rad like his and 3000 high pressure fans his 240 rad will probably dissipate as much heat as your complete loop.

Care to make a 2k wager (GBP, although it is not worth much) on that assertion? I am always keen for BS bingo, even if I lose, horses for courses, money where your mouth is, come on Greebo, I know you are keen :)
 
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Care to make a 2k wager (GBP, although it is not worth much) on that assertion? I am always keen for BS bingo, even if I lose, horses for courses, money where your mouth is, come on Greebo, I know you are keen :)

Why would i wager 2k on something that isnt my build? :p I was just giving an opinion based on the maths. Plus you gave no info on the make or size of your rads (they might all be 80mm thick) or their fpi so I can't give an exact answer on your cooling power. I only said his "might" give more cooling. ;)

Agreed its not the most ideal setup and he is going to be running at 3000rpm most of the time but it should work.

After all an AIB for a 1080 comes with only a 120 rad and you can buy AIB for cpus with a 120 rad as well.

Neither of those will be high fpi or have such extreme fans yet people are using them all over the world.
 
Sent a webnote to EKWB. They say due to the massive demand it will take them 5 more days to clear all the pre orders on the Titan waterblocks on a first come first served basis.

No idea where I am in the queue so hopefully everybody should have a block by next week.
 
thing is with a high fpi rad like his and 3000 high pressure fans his 240 rad will probably dissipate as much heat as your complete loop.

Potentially depending on exact fan and rad choice he is looking at 300 to 400W of heat per 10c water delta so not bad.

if hes happy with 20C water delta then he will have 600 to 800W of heat capacity which should be more than enough for an overclocked cpu and titan.

Okay they wont be running as cool as normal people's loops so his titan max temp might end up being in the 60s rather than the 50s etc.

Some people go for excess rads and quiet fans, other people dont.

In theory with my new build my fans should never go above 800 rpm even when gaming due to the excess of rads. Similar build buy im using a 420, 360, 280 and 240 rad for a cpu and a titan.

Horses for courses.

240 is likely not enough. And 3000rpm fans would be far from acceptable.

Currently 2 x 480 (1 60mm, 1 25mm) and a single 25mm 240. Both 1080's can still hit 45c with fans at 60-70%. About 12-1400rpm.

Even a single card with all 10 rad fans at 700rpm can still hit 53-55c.

There just isn't enough pressure to take away that much heat at 700rpm.
 
Might be useful...

GTX1080 Founders Edition Heatsink Removal (is tricky business) - Practical Demostration
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GscQPI7ALwA

Pretty sure everyone who bought the Titan XP and is water cooling it knows how to undo some screws carefully. :)

@Greebo, pretty sure I read somewhere the pads are thicker than the skinny pads on the older blocks but can't find the article.
 
Anyone have any blocks on yet? What's the sort of general performance over 1080 at same clocks?

Currently have my TXP at home as couldn't cancel it in time. But contemplating keeping it/sending it back. With current block availability I'll be waiting until next month for back plates anyway and the second card. Don't mind waiting though.
 
I will be overclocking my titan, the EKWB will be arriving soon - and their blackplates aren't in stock until the end of the month...

But I want to get my cooling loop setup - can I add the backplate later if required?
 
I will be overclocking my titan, the EKWB will be arriving soon - and their blackplates aren't in stock until the end of the month...

But I want to get my cooling loop setup - can I add the backplate later if required?

You can add one later, it's relatively easy to add one in the case... although you may need to find something to support the block or have the case on its side while you do it.

You just need to take a number of screws off the back of the card connecting the main block, stick the backplate in place and screw it on.

I'm doing something similar... although I'm sure I've read that someone has managed to get the stock TPX backplate to work with the EK waterblock as long as you use the Nvidia screws or something... so I think I might try that.



Just got notification of shipment of my two waterblocks :)
 
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