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The Pascal Titan X and XP Owners Thread

Plot twist, the PC is off :)

Got confirmation on the block for tomorrow, just in time for the weekend. Then on to bending a few pieces of PETG for the GPU loop and then this build is finally complete.
 
Combat Fighter said:
You sure about that?

Different card I know but my 980Ti EK backplate got red hot, hot enough it was uncomfortable to touch. Definitely hotter than 40c more like double that easy!

Can't say I share your confidence with this one. . .
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Same mate, they get VERY hot... Having said that in SLI the top card actually cools the bottom card backplate without water. If you have a strong airflow through the cards I think they sit significantly cooler so this could be a reason why... I'm planning to attempt some sort of fan mount gently cooling them with some direct air flow when my 1080 blocks are out. (And yes OR Titan if I cave :P )
 
Silent_Scone said:
EK backplate is more for aesthetics. Most will hinder temps. Always find it better to either use active airflow or not bother. A full cover block is sufficient for VRM cooling. The Titan X is like all other reference designs since 780Ti, in that the board supplied by Flextronics limits voltage at resistor level to 1.25v. You're not able to push it enough to test tolerances, and performance should be relatively unaffected.
Click to expand...

Pretty spot on imho, I've always bought backplates before but after reading a fair bit it seems that either make very little to zero difference or even make things worse by trapping heat?

Interested to see if the active jobbie is any good though certainly looks the part.

Going to try a wee project with mine, I have an AW17 laptop with graphics amp that doesn't get much use.

Going to put the TXP in the amp and water cool it using a 240 predator custom mounted to the top.

If works may flog my 900d and get half my desk back ;)
 
I got the 14W ones because I didn't fancy spending the extra for 17W... 14W will be more than good enough and a big improvement over the standard ones.

I got mine from the rainforest... but there is another supplier of watercooling parts in the UK who are a competitor of OcUK who sell them.

You haven't configured your trust settings so I can't email you either :p
 
crinkleshoes said:
I got the 14W ones because I didn't fancy spending the extra for 17W... 14W will be more than good enough and a big improvement over the standard ones.

I got mine from the rainforest... but there is another supplier of watercooling parts in the UK who are a competitor of OcUK who sell them.

You haven't configured your trust settings so I can't email you either :p
Click to expand...

Thanks I found some :D
 
My TXP - now with EKWB and shuntmod. Runs great.
Still testing but 2050 are solid and don't run into the power target so far. Will go for 2100 tonight.

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Edit: Added die pic and shunt mod pic for those who did not stumble over the guide yet.
I have used Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra.
 
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Greebo said:
Did you put the nvidia backplate back on mustrum or just left it off?
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I just left it off. I might put the EK one on at some point but i think i might just not be bothered. Optics used to interest me but nowadays I am only looking for maximum performance. Putting that piece of plastic (original backplate) serves no purpose.
 
mustrum said:
I just left it off. I might put the EK one on at some point but i think i might just not be bothered. Optics used to interest me but nowadays I am only looking for maximum performance. Putting that piece of plastic (original backplate) serves no purpose.
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Didnt realise the nivida backplate was plastic, had assumed since they had put thermal pads on the back of the card that it was actually metal :o

Any guide to the shunt mod please or could you highlight in your pics which ones you do please?

Also with the liquid ultra, does that "dry" and set? I thought it staying liquid until it got heated up?
 
Greebo said:
Didnt realise the nivida backplate was plastic, had assumed since they had put thermal pads on the back of the card that it was actually metal :o

Any guide to the shunt mod please or could you highlight in your pics which ones you do please?

Also with the liquid ultra, does that "dry" and set? I thought it staying liquid until it got heated up?
Click to expand...

Here is a tutorial:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1608437/...nt-mod-for-titan-x-and-many-other-nvidia-gpus

The Liquid metal stays liquid. The Ultra is supposedly better than the other because it is not as fluid. It does stay in place, it might be problematic for cases where the graphics card is upright.

The upside is that you can simply wipe it away to remove the mod. It might dry out a bit over time though.

It does not flow away though because of surface tension. If you apply it right it is like a waterdrop on glass.
 
Looks like no block today.:(

My DHL express shipping left LJUBLJANA yesterday afternoon and then went to Austria then Germany and then ended up in Brussels last night.

Today it is saying it arrived in the wrong country and is now being sent to the correct destination. :o:(
 
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