You said it was the VRM's getting hot, any way to fit a thin 12mm fan behind the heatsink over the VRMs? Or not enough space?
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The RX Vega 64 Owners Thread
- Thread starter Kaapstad
- Start date
You said it was the VRM's getting hot, any way to fit a thin 12mm fan behind the heatsink over the VRMs? Or not enough space?
Morpheus II is too short for Vega 64, to the point half the chokes cannot have heatsink on. Also has so many fins to cool the block, that not much air is allowed to flow through without good static pressure fans like the NF-F12. However if someone wants a quiet system, sub 1800rpm even the NF-F12 doesn't manage to pass enough air, and the whole area is warm between the heatsink and the VRMs. And if you push them to >2000 RPM there is cooling however there is noise also. Making something like the V64 Nitro a better solution. Because the latter has a whole heatsink plate covering all VRMs, and not relying on some tiny aluminium pieces.
Hell from my experience even the reference blower makes better job cooling the whole card, at low rpm and noise.
My Nitro arrived yesterday. Massive thing that I am hoping fits in the Corsair 240!
Anyway, I notice it has two 4 pin fan connectors on. I may use these for the front intake fans (they are 3 pin however) as my Ryzen sits around 50 Celcius gaming, and this would allow them to spin up with the GPU fan when it gets hotter.
Sound like a good plan?
Anyway, I notice it has two 4 pin fan connectors on. I may use these for the front intake fans (they are 3 pin however) as my Ryzen sits around 50 Celcius gaming, and this would allow them to spin up with the GPU fan when it gets hotter.
Sound like a good plan?
Soldato
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How are you finding the card @Space Monkey ?Thanks, looking forward to getting it
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Can anyone recommend a custom fan curve for an undervolted V64? (Sapphire Nitro)
Last edited:
Well, I only just managed to fit the Vega 64 in due to the backing plate. I've had to leave 2 screws out the motherboard as I had to fit the GPU and slide it into the rear slots to get it to fit
The carbide 240 sits flat so the screws do not support any weight so I will be fine (GPU also sits upright)
Drivers installed. Going to play some PUBG shortly to ensure everything is running fin .
The carbide 240 sits flat so the screws do not support any weight so I will be fine (GPU also sits upright)
Drivers installed. Going to play some PUBG shortly to ensure everything is running fin .
Soldato
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- 6 Feb 2010
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The cooling on the Nitro+ is no joke.Loving this already. Playing at 1080p @ 75hz on PUBG Ultra, locked at 75 FPS on power saving. Around 50 Celcius, the fan is not even running
My 290x was hitting 75 Celcius on medium settings so an impressive upgrade.
Also, you can get the temp even lower if you undervolt the card. By default the 1200mV is overkill...I can keep my card stable running with Wattman and the P7 state at 1632MHz (and set as maximum state) using just 1050mV.
I have used the undervolt option in the latest driver. I am still getting my head around all the option in Wattman, specifically what P7 etc means. Even with the extreme heat we are having, it is sat at around 55 Celcius with the fan barely spinning
The only issue I am having is the following:
"Default Radeon WattMan settings has been restored due to unexpected system failure"
This occurs on boot, however as soon as I set the GPU to auto undervolt again, it runs fine until reboot.
If you have your notifications turned on, it will show a "Wattman settings have been reset". This is often caused by your computer fastbooting and causing a mismatch with what Wattman expected. The way to fix this is to turn off Windows fastboot.
How you do this is:
1. Windows settings
2. Power & Sleep
3. Additional power settings
4. Choose what the power button does
5. Change settings that are currently unavailable
6. Untick "turn on fast startup"
7. Save changes
Thanks, will give it a try
Thanks, this worked, and Windows does not seem to boot any quicker
Hi,
I picked up the cheap MSI blower card a couple of weeks back and it's now in my loop with an EK block.
Slightly odd behaviour when undervolting
With core at 1150mV, and target 1720 it holds a verry stable 44C @ 1700 after repeated 20min 3dmark stress tests. Loop fans on low for near silence.
With 1100mV and the same 1720 target it drops to a steady 42C @ 1660 actual. The frequency result is very stable and I get 99.7% in the 3dm stability tests.
Is there some sort of current limit where lower voltages can't provide enough power for higher boost clocks?
If it makes any differnce, memory at 1100MHz, floor voltage at 1050mV.
Just looking for to optimise the frequency without lots of extra heat for no gain so was looking for the max frequency at 1100mV.
I think it was firestrike pulling 280W in Wattman, even at 1100mV, so definitely a warm card!
I picked up the cheap MSI blower card a couple of weeks back and it's now in my loop with an EK block.
Slightly odd behaviour when undervolting
With core at 1150mV, and target 1720 it holds a verry stable 44C @ 1700 after repeated 20min 3dmark stress tests. Loop fans on low for near silence.
With 1100mV and the same 1720 target it drops to a steady 42C @ 1660 actual. The frequency result is very stable and I get 99.7% in the 3dm stability tests.
Is there some sort of current limit where lower voltages can't provide enough power for higher boost clocks?
If it makes any differnce, memory at 1100MHz, floor voltage at 1050mV.
Just looking for to optimise the frequency without lots of extra heat for no gain so was looking for the max frequency at 1100mV.
I think it was firestrike pulling 280W in Wattman, even at 1100mV, so definitely a warm card!
You can lower to 1080s, just make sure P5-6-7 have 10mv difference. If it crashes lower the clock from 1720 to 1680.
In firestrike GT1 you will observe the clocks are lower and the power consumption is higher, where in Gt2 the card boosts to where it should be with reduced power consumption. Anything over 1.155 on the held p-state and you will see the clocks decrease in Gt1.
Really for finding the optimum settings for your card, I would concentrate on a few real game engines rather than Firestrike.
You can modify powerplay tables in overdrive for power limit and current limiters, but it won't gain you much.
Hi, I can get as low as 1070mV, crashes at 1060mV, however at 1080mV the core only boosts to around 1625Mhz and even lower at 1070mV so I assume there is a maximum clock it will try an achive for any given voltage irrespective of temperature. At 1080mV, my hotspot is ~+18C delta under load which seems quite reasonable from what I've read. It's the reduction in boost I wasn't expecting, I thought it will try to hit the target boost clock as long as it wasn't thermally throttled, however seems that isn't the case.
On part of firestrike, I am bumping into power limits @ 330W when I run 1150mV, even at 1120mV and 1720MHz target in some parts of the test though I'm not intent on pushing that hard in real time for marginal gains. I'm mainly using firestike stability test for the heat generation while optimising the fan curve for the rads. In most games I seem to be nearer to 200-220W actual in Wattman.
Overall I'll see how 1080mV @ 1700Mhz target holds out, fortunately I have dual screen so can keep a data window open in game
Thanks