The Tesla Thread

Chris1712 said:
How often are you using said buttons and levers? Might adjust the climate control temperature a couple times a year but that’s about it for me.
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I mean, most times I drive I would say. Heating I usually only fiddle with on long drives or if my wife has used the car, but heated seats pretty much every time. Windscreen wipers when it rains. Volume on the stereo quite often. Cruise control multiple times every time I go out.

The model 3 just has indicators on a stick, right? Everything else is on the central panel?
 
Mr Jack said:
I mean, most times I drive I would say. Heating I usually only fiddle with on long drives or if my wife has used the car, but heated seats pretty much every time. Windscreen wipers when it rains. Volume on the stereo quite often. Cruise control multiple times every time I go out.

The model 3 just has indicators on a stick, right? Everything else is on the central panel?
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Sort of. The two buttons/wheels on the wheel are context sensitive. Wipers and lights are auto, cruise is auto dependant on speed limit (you can set an offset if you wish), volume is on the steering wheel and you can have cruise on the steering wheel if you don’t want auto. Heated seats will be through the touch screen though.
 
Another thing to try if you're finding the autopilot behaviour a bit erratic and jerky would be to increase the follow distance, if you can put up with that.
 
PCM2 said:
Another thing to try if you're finding the autopilot behaviour a bit erratic and jerky would be to increase the follow distance, if you can put up with that.
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yeah - cheers - had it set on 3 today which was fine but it was also pouring down as well which might have caused a few little glitches.

No idea whats going on with my rolec charger - currently having to charge from 3pin plug (UMC) @ 10amps.

Rolec keeps tripping the circuit breaker and even when it doesn't do that it's not charging at 32A, dropping to 16A all the time. Installers and Rolec are calling me back tomorrow. Might see if I can get it switched out for another different unit.
 
booyaka said:
Rolec keeps tripping the circuit breaker and even when it doesn't do that it's not charging at 32A, dropping to 16A all the time. Installers and Rolec are calling me back tomorrow. Might see if I can get it switched out for another different unit.
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The regs changed for charging EVs and strictly speaking any modern house should have a separate earth stake for the charging circuit along with a separate isolation switch. Then I assume installers found problems getting sufficient earth readings from various locations and they relaxed the regs. So now I believe it's much easier to just ignore the separate earthing requirements. That's a very rough laymen s interpretation of the situation.

Anyway I was also having some issues getting the full 32A on my Tesla via a Rolec wall box. Eventually it tripped the RCBO in the unit. I did some research realised it was easy to swap out and thought I'd try a new one. However I also noticed my power clamp meter was reading erratically and so I moved the clamp from cable to cable and noticed a slight buzz depending on the orientation of the clamp. On closer inspection it appeared the Ferrite clamp was cracked and so causing some feedback? Not an electrician. So new clamp and new RCBO fitted and no charging problems since. Old RCBO kept as spare.

That's a long winded way to say the charging circuit might benefit from being on a separate earth connection if possible while they're diagnosing the issue.
 
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bimbleuk said:
The regs changed for charging EVs and strictly speaking any modern house should have a separate earth stake for the charging circuit along with a separate isolation switch. Then I assume installers found problems getting sufficient earth readings from various locations and they relaxed the regs. So now I believe it's much easier to just ignore the separate earthing requirements. That's a very rough laymen s interpretation of the situation.

Anyway I was also having some issues getting the full 32A on my Tesla via a Rolec wall box. Eventually it tripped the RCBO in the unit. I did some research realised it was easy to swap out and thought I'd try a new one. However I also noticed my power clamp meter was reading erratically and so I moved the clamp from cable to cable and noticed a slight buzz depending on the orientation of the clamp. On closer inspection it appeared the Ferrite clamp was cracked and so causing some feedback? Not an electrician. So new clamp and new RCBO fitted and no charging problems since. Old RCBO kept as spare.

That's a long winded way to say the charging circuit might benefit from being on a separate earth connection if possible while they're diagnosing the issue.
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Excuse my maybe crude understand of what was done but I think this is what they did. - They did install on a completely separate circuit with it's own RCB (trip switch)/Mains isolater and also an earth rod. He spoke to me and said something about the readings from the earth rod being 120ohms (??) which is well below the max 200 ohms(??)

Don't quote me on the ohms - i think that was the measurements. He also said about the earth readings can change depending on weather etc. So when he left on Friday after the install I didn't get the car till saturday so unable to test.

I am in communication with installers/ev.energy at the moment, just a little frustrating as I need to currently use UMC/public chargers as the Rolec just isn't reliable at this time.
 
booyaka said:
Don't quote me on the ohms - i think that was the measurements. He also said about the earth readings can change depending on weather etc. So when he left on Friday after the install I didn't get the car till saturday so unable to test.
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Sounds like you did get a full install then and the variability on the earth rod is why they may have backed down on the requirements in general. I'd read that some installations required 8 foot plus poles to achieve the required ohm readings! Hopefully it's a simple component failure in this case and a unit swap will fix the issue.
 
I have a rolec charger and SR+ model 3.

had one proper charging session so far and to start with that did drop to 16A when initially started at 32.
i then set the car to 16 and it was stable for an hour.
then started increasing car limit to 20, 24, 28 and 32.
all remained stable but i was monitoring the voltage in the car and with a simple plug in power meter.
the charger is on its own circuit directly off the 25mm feed in our house distribution block, not quite the power network feed but jut a few meters off. its then an original 6mm cable to the garage on a run of ~25m

even during charging the voltage drop between the house circuit and the garage is 2-3v so I think fine.

no load i have 238v everywhere when i tested last week
16a charging voltage drops to 232
28a charging voltage drops to 226 in garage and 229 in house
did not record numbers at 32, i think it was 224 ish.

when i stopped charging voltage jumped back to 238v.

given that target voltage in uk is now 230 i think this is probably within tolerances for the power network but it suggests the house cable is dropping voltage when under sustained load. we do have along drive of maybe 70m so that above average i woudl suspect.

anyway, cars charge is at 30% today and Im going to test a local free 7kw charger at the superstore and then maybe another home session as well.

at full rate i should need ~4-5h charging a week but may keep at 24A for regular use and see how i go.

Dan
 
in terms of AP - yea the speed control is a bit jerky if it sees traffic it does not like! On a country road with oncoming traffic then heavy breaking does happen sometimes.
but on dual carriageways its very nice - in the rain this morning I set follow distance to 5 and it did better than i think i might have for lane keeping.

hopefully v10 software will be another nice improvement and I might consider the fsd price if its looking good as I hope to have the car for 10+ years.

https://youtu.be/4ivK-akwgeQ?t=925
 
For the AP (non FSD) users I worked something out the other day. I noticed that when you indicate to change lanes, the AP disengages, sometimes...

Turns out it's based on steering wheel torque. If you are applying light right pressure and indicate right, AP will disengage. If you are applying light left pressure and indicate right, it will not disengage AP. Visa versa for indicating left.

Minimal effect as AP will disengage anyway when you begin to steer, but knowing this has made motorway driving a little more comfortable for me.
 
I'm really struggling with the adaptive cruise control. Sometimes it thinks a car is over the line in an adjacent lane when it clearly isn't. This causes the car to immediately come off the accelerator and regen brake. It will also auto adjust the speed when changing between roads. This has meant that moving between two motorways it has rapidly decreased in speed to some random speed that the map must have had. Really wish it would just set to current speed and not change. The driver should be the one in control of that. It's a real pain when driving on the variable speed limit motorways too. Tap the brake - resets to 70...
 
yea, i TACC i think has a way of setting at the current speed rather than the limit. its not great when on a b road with 60 limit but 45-50 is the right speed to be setting. I have not managed it in a repeatable way yet - need to re-read the manual again as Im clearly not doing the right action.
 
Still having issues with my Rolec still so nipped up to try local Instavolt 50kwh CCS terminal up the road.

A bit expensive for regular charging, but added 50 miles in under 20 minutes for £4...nice and quick speed.
 
Tesla back to their old ways of working over the last couple of days it seems. No doubt they are crazy busy delivering cars but after a very easy call to Delivery team on Tuesday to rearrange car collection from Sunday to Monday, no response on email in 3 days and their phone system now just hangs up on me after 15 minutes. Slightly worrying as car collection is due Monday, still have no idea how much money I need to pay them (via bank transfer which isn't always reliable over the weekend) and no sign of the requested finance documentation for SWMBO to sign as she will not be present at collection.

Fingers crossed!!
 
BigglesPiP said:
For the AP (non FSD) users I worked something out the other day. I noticed that when you indicate to change lanes, the AP disengages, sometimes...

Turns out it's based on steering wheel torque. If you are applying light right pressure and indicate right, AP will disengage. If you are applying light left pressure and indicate right, it will not disengage AP. Visa versa for indicating left.

Minimal effect as AP will disengage anyway when you begin to steer, but knowing this has made motorway driving a little more comfortable for me.
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Ah! I’d been trying to figure out why that was happening, AP would only disengage 2/3rds of the time and it was quite annoying.

I’ve done a few long journeys and for the most part AP is great, except the jerkyness - the steering part is rock solid. I’ve found that phantom breaking is often when passing a lorry, for some reason it picks up the lorry to the left of the car and brakes for it, before changing its mind and carrying on, quite scary!

The only problem with the lack of buttons is the wipers, the auto wiper is absolutely rubbish and in changeable weather, downright dangerous. I do not want to be looking at a touchscreen when it’s suddenly gone from light rain to torrential and the wipers have decided they should turn off. Odd as my 15 year old Lexus gets it perfect every time!
 
DiG said:
I’ve done a few long journeys and for the most part AP is great, except the jerkyness - the steering part is rock solid. I’ve found that phantom breaking is often when passing a lorry, for some reason it picks up the lorry to the left of the car and brakes for it, before changing its mind and carrying on, quite scary!

The only problem with the lack of buttons is the wipers, the auto wiper is absolutely rubbish and in changeable weather, downright dangerous. I do not want to be looking at a touchscreen when it’s suddenly gone from light rain to torrential and the wipers have decided they should turn off. Odd as my 15 year old Lexus gets it perfect every time!
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The TACC is certainly less good than competitors at the moment. V10 definitely classifies other vehicles much better so hopefully it stops thinking they've drifted into your lane and it improves.

My wipers have been flawless, just as good as any other auto-wiper system I've used. They all occasionally leave you feeling like you want a wipe sometimes and there is a physical button for that.

The auto high beams are rubbish, I turned that off.
 
Walked behind one of these parked on the street last night. As I went between it and another car, it turned its lights on until I walked away from it. Do they do this because it's dark and it thinks I might be its owner? Didn't do it when I was on the pavement, just when I walked behind it.
 
Ryan-3 said:
Walked behind one of these parked on the street last night. As I went between it and another car, it turned its lights on until I walked away from it. Do they do this because it's dark and it thinks I might be its owner? Didn't do it when I was on the pavement, just when I walked behind it.
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Sentry mode sometimes flashes the lights when it begins recording. I do not know why.
 
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