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I'm guessing this might be a bit of basic kit to some of you guys, but yesterday I picked myself up a Kangertech Subox Mini Starter Kit after using a Pro Tank II for nearly 2 years and I am super impressed! I was working in London yesterday so got it from the new Vape Emporium shop that's just opened in Richmond. The guys were really helpful and told me all about the basics, but to be honest I'm still a bit confused by it all and most of what they said went straight over my head haha! If you guys could give me any hints and tips like what are the best liquids to use, what the difference is between OCC SUB's and Ohm's are and stuff like that I'd really appreciate it :)

Thanks.
 
NeoReloaded said:
I'm guessing this might be a bit of basic kit to some of you guys, but yesterday I picked myself up a Kangertech Subox Mini Starter Kit after using a Pro Tank II for nearly 2 years and I am super impressed! I was working in London yesterday so got it from the new Vape Emporium shop that's just opened in Richmond. The guys were really helpful and told me all about the basics, but to be honest I'm still a bit confused by it all and most of what they said went straight over my head haha! If you guys could give me any hints and tips like what are the best liquids to use, what the difference is between OCC SUB's and Ohm's are and stuff like that I'd really appreciate it :)

Thanks.
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ohms-law-illustrated.jpg


The volts is the amount that is being pushed.
The ohms is the resistant, the less resistant the more power, the getting though the hotter it gets.
The amps is what gets pushed.

most regulated devices deals in wattage, which is the output at the end.

It's amp(erage) that normally kills, not voltage.. always check the amps that you need and that the batteries can handle it. good mods (battery devices) will stop before the volts are to low (flat battery); when they can't push the needed amps.., or when your trying to use too much amperage to fire your coils.
 
IPV D2 - when fully charged and using a Ti coil, what kind of temp offset should I be using? Getting dry hits, I've also set the temp at rom temperature.

When using the exact same setup and temp on my I stick 40w, having no issues what so ever and able to chain Vape it. It's baffling me!

If I set it to anything below 310, the Vape is pathetic, setting it to 320+ it's ok with a sweet spot at 330, but after 2/3 drags in close succession it's dry hitting. All at 20J.
 
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TommyV said:
IPV D2 - when fully charged and using a Ti coil, what kind of temp offset should I be using? Getting dry hits, I've also set the temp at rom temperature.

When using the exact same setup and temp on my I stick 40w, having no issues what so ever and able to chain Vape it. It's baffling me!

If I set it to anything below 310, the Vape is pathetic, setting it to 320+ it's ok with a sweet spot at 330, but after 2/3 drags in close succession it's dry hitting. All at 20J.
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Have you tried the dry cotton test to see when the cotton starts to burn?

With Ti on my 75w Sigelei the cotton started to burn around 340F
 
triggerthat said:
So that takes a single 18650. How does that compare to the iStick 30w?
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Depends what battery you use and at what wattage, the 30w istick is 2200mah, you can get anything upto 3000mah 18650 batteries, so if vaping at the same wattage you should get more life from the D2.

TommyV said:
IPV D2 - when fully charged and using a Ti coil, what kind of temp offset should I be using? Getting dry hits, I've also set the temp at rom temperature.

When using the exact same setup and temp on my I stick 40w, having no issues what so ever and able to chain Vape it. It's baffling me!

If I set it to anything below 310, the Vape is pathetic, setting it to 320+ it's ok with a sweet spot at 330, but after 2/3 drags in close succession it's dry hitting. All at 20J.
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This might be a dumb question but i'll ask it anyway...have you set the D2 to Ti01 mode? As long as wicking can keep up, with my RBA+ I can easily chain vape max VG at 500F 50J on a Titanium build (0.21ohm).

Have you made sure the coil is nice and snug in the posts? If its slightly loose it can throw the resistance readings, messing up your vape in the process :)
 
Different devices with different chips so settings are not 1000% the same across them, so expect to make adjustments, but as PG said, check you have ti set or the TCR will be out and that will drastically effect the vape..
 
Good Morning Everyone

I am pleased to announce that the Cthulhu RTA V2 is on its way!
I had an email from Josh at Cthulhumod this morning to confirm that they have been shipped.

Based on previous shipping times from Cthulhumod, we are looking to have these arrive towards the end of the week. We will sent a further email to confirm when we have them in our hands, and you let you know your orders have shipped.

I've extended the discount code to add items to your order (cthulhuv2 at checkout) until Wednesday when we will prepare all orders to ship as soon as the Cthulhu RTA v2s arrive.

Anything we can do between now and them arriving, please let me know

Happy Vaping!



Tony
VapourDepot, Web Team
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:)

E: dual coil Ti build in the Goliath V2, 1.0 ohm on the nose, blasting it at 75J, 400F, WOW! What a vape. I think I just retired my subtank mini.
 
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I only started using the RBA on my subtank mini this last week, .2ohm TI coil and i love it... such a great flavour and clouds from it, i was surprised.

However, right now im running a .22ohm TI coil on my Lemo 2 and my home made DNA200... had some issues with it at first but now i think ive sorted them and loving the vape...

249Rd5Y.jpg
 
I normally switch off my mods before i go to bed & noticed the IPV Mini 2 screen was on but dim ,i had used it earlier in the night & had double clicked the fire button to see the battery life(was about a 1/3 life left).
None of the buttons or combinations would get it to fire or clear the screen.
Removed battery & inserted fresh 1 & all good.
Checked the batteries voltage & it was 2.8v :eek:
Had this happen before & i discarded battery thinking it was faulty.
Now not so sure it is the batteries , this battery is a Samsung 25R from Torchy & i have used it for months without issue.
Battery is now in charger & is charging fine.
I wonder if double clicking the fire button to keep screen on has some how kept screen on continuously & drained battery.
Most strange.
 
I had an SX350 chip that would do that sometimes, you would fire the mod to take a vap and the screen would stay on... would have to fire it a few more times or pull the battery to sort it.
 
I feel this thread is lacking gennies and mechs...

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Origen Genesis V2 MkII sat on an Atmizoo Lab 18500. 0.9ohm coil with SS rope and SS mesh wick.

Excuse the crappy telephone photos.
 
Goliath v2 is going in the bin, what a pile of garbage, assemble as directed, the chimney blocks the juice channels, slacken it back and it floods and leaks everywhere, pathetic product.
 
Spotted something posted somewhere and finally decided what I'm going to do as far as a DNA200 mod.

I've been put off Lipo packs and so dual 18650 power is going to plenty and I'm going to build an enclosure from Mahogany, Walnut or Kingwood
 
Ooh sounds interesting Frozennova, hopefully you take pictures of the build for us...
Im running dual 18650 in my DNA200, had over 970 puffs so far and still got battery life.. vaped over 40ml easy...
 
Will be plenty of photos.

I'm hoping I can find a company that can CNC the enclosure for me for a reasonable price rather than doing it by hand. I can do it but I know that I the fit an finish will be so much better.

Will use a Varitube 28.5mm 510, the DNA200 mounting kit stealthvape do, Keystone battery holder and probably Vamo buttons
 
I used the Stealthvape Fitting kit, its rather handy, though i had to grind down the stand offs a little as room was so tight in the 1550p.
I also used the Vamo buttons for the up and down, i got mine from modmaker but used a fire button from a Cloupor mini with a plastic washer to pad it out.
I also got the 806024 CNC box from mod maker, so may well make a second DNA200 in the future as its a lovely box and slightly more room in it than the 1550p, but would rather get the cut outs done professionally as my handy works a bit rough lol
 
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That's why I'd like to go down the CNC route, itll also be easier to get things look neat in hardwood if I have go do it by hand as well.

Decided on Santos Rosewood, such a rich colour with really lovely grain

Edit: I can hopefully have some proper CAD drawings ready in about a week once I'm back from Spain and have a chance to sit down and get them done.

After that I'll be able to get them sent off and find out if having it CNC'd is viable from a cost perspective
 
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