The Vapers Lounge 2.0

robnut · 15 Sep 2015 at 12:38

Subtank mini is great, so is the RBA once you crack the wicking.

UKDTweak · 15 Sep 2015 at 12:42

If you want a better range out of the DNA 30, go for at least a 1 - 1.6 ohms coil.
A 1ohm coil at 4v will only take 16w and the DNA30 can go to 8.3v/30w.
A 1ohm at 30w will only need 5.48v, so loads of room.
A 1.6ohm at 4v will take 10w and at 30w will only need 6.9v.

pgi947 · 15 Sep 2015 at 12:53

Subtank is a solid investment tbh greg, the rba+ deck is superb and wicking it is very very easy to master.

Have you thought about trying nickel or titanium given that you've just purchased another tc mod?

UKDTweak · 15 Sep 2015 at 13:00

Another vote for the Subtank Mini and its RBA deck, only started using the RBA a week ago and with a Titanium coil, its a great flavour atty with the RBA deck in it.

Gregster · 15 Sep 2015 at 13:31

Subtank Mini and Titanium coil it is

Cheers guys

Edit:

Changed from Titanium to Nickel seeing that there is some issues with dry hits and flames and I am experienced but still mess up, so will go with the safer Nickel

UKDTweak · 15 Sep 2015 at 13:42

If you are getting flames then you have too high a temp or a hot leg in your coil... I know some build contact coils in TI wire, but I have always stuck with spaced, and if your mod does not have the correct TCR for TI wire then you will need to set the temp limit much lower than if you were using NI200, for example, on my DNA40 I have the temp limit set to 170c for TI wire, no dry hits and clouds and flavour are fantastic on the subtank mini.

EDIT: to be honest, if you can handle NI200 coils, TI should be a breeze...

Gregster · 15 Sep 2015 at 15:00

UKDTweak said:
If you are getting flames then you have too high a temp or a hot leg in your coil... I know some build contact coils in TI wire, but I have always stuck with spaced, and if your mod does not have the correct TCR for TI wire then you will need to set the temp limit much lower than if you were using NI200, for example, on my DNA40 I have the temp limit set to 170c for TI wire, no dry hits and clouds and flavour are fantastic on the subtank mini.

EDIT: to be honest, if you can handle NI200 coils, TI should be a breeze...

I have only used Kanthal wire in all my previous builds and not tried Titanium or Ni200 but the first thread I came to and read up on Titanium put worries on me, so decided to try the Ni200. Not to say at a later date I won't try Titanium and my rDNA40 does have temp control (which works a treat), so it shouldn't be an issue but for now will stick with the Nickel and see how that vapes.

I always welcome advice though and even though I have been vaping for close to 2 years, I still am pretty clueless when it comes to new things.

pgi947 · 15 Sep 2015 at 15:01

For the price of wire ni200 is a safe place to start getting used to tc though, especially if your mod doesn't natively support titanium. I like both wires tbh, currently using a 0.08ohm nickel coil at 35J 410F with some max vg frozen forest, lovely vape

UKDTweak · 15 Sep 2015 at 15:07

Well Greg at the end of the day, its what you are happy with and it keeps you off the stinkies, so that's the main thing, I used NI for months, but I always found it a bit of a weak vape unless I turned the temp limit past cotton burning temp at which point id get a chemical taste, seams im one of those weirdos that has a problem with NI200 lol, I find NI200 far too fiddly to be working with as I like to re wick every two weeks or less...
TI has got some scare stories but then so does NI200, but in a working temp control mod, you should never get either of the wire types anywhere near hot enough to produce anything bad or dangerous.
But each to their own

Gregster · 15 Sep 2015 at 15:14

I rewick every 3 days. I found day 2 to be the best for flavour but day 4 starts to taste a bit off. With pre built coils, I generally go for roughly 2 weeks before switching and yer, lots of this is subjective.

Ohhh and ordered some more juice (and hopefully my last)

Once those are gone (or gone in the bin), I will be mixing my own up. Watched a couple of vids and looks easy enough and will save some cash for more tanks/mods

UKDTweak · 15 Sep 2015 at 15:18

I think your right about day two.. or at least tank two with a new wick... it takes a tank to get the wicks run in I guess, or its the build up on the coils, and two weeks it me pushing it, normally I find after a week things are not as good, but im too lazy to re wick or I forget and re fill the tank etc lol

Gregster · 15 Sep 2015 at 15:22

UKDTweak said:
I think your right about day two.. or at least tank two with a new wick... it takes a tank to get the wicks run in I guess, or its the build up on the coils, and two weeks it me pushing it, normally I find after a week things are not as good, but im too lazy to re wick or I forget and re fill the tank etc lol

I have used the same coil in my Kayfun for roughly 3 months. When I change cotton, I give it a proper good clean and just re-wick. Takes about 5 mins from stripping, cleaning and re-wicking. Not sure how long coils last with sub-ohming?

UKDTweak · 15 Sep 2015 at 16:00

Ive had weeks from coils, in fact bar one or 2 that broke, ive changed only cause I can and fancied building lol

pgi947 · 15 Sep 2015 at 17:10

Aromamizer rdta is here, some nice freebies from creme de vape (formerly cloud9). Got a vape band and an led torch keyring thrown in.

Tank looks a lovely bit of kit, build deck a little on the small side but I'll manage until I get the two post velocity style deck from the states next month

I'm a bit of a clean freak with my coils and tanks, I change wick twice a week, coil once a week along with a complete soak and clean.

TommyV · 15 Sep 2015 at 18:05

Gregster said:
I rewick every 3 days. I found day 2 to be the best for flavour but day 4 starts to taste a bit off. With pre built coils, I generally go for roughly 2 weeks before switching and yer, lots of this is subjective.

Ohhh and ordered some more juice (and hopefully my last)

Once those are gone (or gone in the bin), I will be mixing my own up. Watched a couple of vids and looks easy enough and will save some cash for more tanks/mods

If you're spending that much, the sooner the better

For that price, you could mix yourself up a couple of litres of juice easy!

pgi947 · 15 Sep 2015 at 18:26

Pestilence said:
Let me know how it is. I have the V2 RDA, which is great, and have been eyeing up the RTA due to that.

What problems have you had with the Goliath, btw?

As an aside, I have a friend who's decided to make the switch. I'm handing him down my old Lavatube, but need to figure out a suitable tank for him. Can't be sub-ohm, as the LT won't fire that.

Any recommendations on a tank these days that suits the ol' mouth to lung and sits somewhere in the 1.2-2.0ohm range for pre-built coils?

Sweet ******* Jesus it's good! The flavour from it is like nothing I've used before, it's quite probably better then any drippers I've used before. Big clouds, big airflow, big flavour, bit of a sod to build on but the newer deck will cure that, wicks perfectly with max vg. For £30 you'd be a fool to not invest in one. Actually, I might grab the 6ml version and new deck for $50 when I go to Texas next month as well.

Cthulhu v2 has some big boots to fill now

Frozennova · 15 Sep 2015 at 21:18

Done some thinking and I've decided against Hardwood for a DNA200 mod.

I just don't think any material is going to be strong enough at the sort of wall thickness I'm going to be working with so I've gone for a ModMaker wideboy. So that and mg DNA200 board are on their way.

Pestilence · 15 Sep 2015 at 21:56

pgi947 said:
Sweet ******* Jesus it's good! The flavour from it is like nothing I've used before, it's quite probably better then any drippers I've used before. Big clouds, big airflow, big flavour, bit of a sod to build on but the newer deck will cure that, wicks perfectly with max vg. For £30 you'd be a fool to not invest in one. Actually, I might grab the 6ml version and new deck for $50 when I go to Texas next month as well.

Cthulhu v2 has some big boots to fill now

SOLD!

I love the juice feed mechanism in it.

Any issues with leaks so far if left on its side or carried in a pocket? That's my main big issue with tanks... can't walk around with them in hoodie pocket without risking leaks.

pgi947 · 15 Sep 2015 at 22:34

Pestilence said:
SOLD!

I love the juice feed mechanism in it.

Any issues with leaks so far if left on its side or carried in a pocket? That's my main big issue with tanks... can't walk around with them in hoodie pocket without risking leaks.

I'll tell you tomorrow as I plan to use it at work (RIP my batteries!!) but if you move the vape band type air flow control ring to closed theirs pretty much no where for juice to leak from. Even the drip tip is an anti-spitback thing so partially blocked but doesn't take anything away from the airflow.

I would strongly advise getting the 6ml tank (i've got the 3ml). I've smashed over 2 tanks of it already this evening.

Oh and if you want the velocity style (2 post 4 hole) deck by the time I head to the states let me know, as it stands I can't see anywhere in the UK stocking them, or at least offering them up for pre-order, direct from SC is around $15.

UKDTweak · 15 Sep 2015 at 22:56

Frozennova said:
Done some thinking and I've decided against Hardwood for a DNA200 mod.

I just don't think any material is going to be strong enough at the sort of wall thickness I'm going to be working with so I've gone for a ModMaker wideboy. So that and mg DNA200 board are on their way.

Is that the 806024 based on the 1550p or have you gone for the taller one based on the 1590?

I have the Modmaker CNC 806024, gonna have a go at cutting the button and windows holes this weekend and see if i can do a tidier job than i did on my proper 1550p.. if it work ill order a chip and fitting kit and keystone as i have everything else.. it feels a bit bigger than the 1550 but is still very comfy in the hand and still small enough but a bit more room to manoeuvre.

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