***The Vapers Lounge*** 2.0

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Ah right, well then it looks the part, only worry with it so far is that the 510 is Brass... and not the + pin, that actual threading is brass, so would be worried about it lasting with SS atties being screwed on and off, i would not worry about lipo's too much, the Istisck and MVP's and eVic's and eGrip's all have lipos and for the most part have been safe, even your mobile phone uses a lipo...
But for battery life, a dual or tipple 18650 DNA200 will outlast the 1300mAh lipo in the VT200 mod. thats why i built my own. And building your own will cost no more than the VT200 if you have the right tools already, or access to them..
 
Finally fitted the dual coil deck to my cthulhu v2...Rilot, the positive post on my deck is also bent, looks like the insulation (peek?) Hasn't formed evenly under it, will get a pic up shortly and will get in touch with the vendor to see if they can sort out a replacement deck.
 
My money for a lipo DNA200 would be on teh Efusion at the moment, but if you want a dual 18650 then hold ona few more weeks, Lost Vape are working on one, i have it on good authority from Lost Vape. I sent them details and spec for mine as an example of how small it could be and they were keen and said they were hoping to release one in 30-45 days time... that was a week ago...
 
pgi947 said:
It's subjective really, just check mix ratios before buying, usually the higher the PG content the worse the liquid will be (in my experience)60-PG is about my limit. From there I usually just hunt around and see who has a nice discount code going and stick an order in.
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Haven't gone crazy with the first order due to not entirely sure what nicotine strength will suit in my new vaping device but decided to order some Monkey Jizz 12MG for mouth to throat vaping and Lime Slime 3MG for sub ohm vaping (Perhaps not the best choice as apparently it has a slight menthol note we shall see) from Vaping King both liquids are 50%VG 50PG.


Today I received some vaping goodies! A Sigelei 75W aslong with a Kanger Subtank Plus Hybrid which seems to be the same as the Subtank mini but with extra juice capacity.

Just waiting on my batteries and charger which should be arriving on Thursday.

Which is what leads me to this post being a beginner and taking into consideration of what my box mod is capable of firing and the tank I have choosen what wire material and gauge should I be looking to be buying ready for when I have to wrap myself a new coil.
 
So a 75w temp control mod and a sub tank with the RBA?
I would go with 6 wraps 28awg kanthal on a 2.5-3mm Diameter and do a single coil at around .5-1ohm...
or
24awg Titanium and 4-5 wraps 2.5-3mm diameter, about .2ohms and temp control :)

The latter being my preferred choice. Assuming you have ordered a Good High drain battery for your mod!!
 
jesus2nd said:
PHP:
So I'm making most of this closing down sale on vapeescape to jump into vaping.

If I buy this:

http://www.vapeescape.co.uk/Vaping-...nnokin-ITaste-VV4-M-1000mAh.Html?cPath=66_100

What tank do I go for? And another other accessories/maintenance bit n' bats that I should grab?

Cheers
Sam
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£23 for the VV4, for an extra £12 you should consider:
http://www.vapeescape.co.uk/MODS-Advanced/Innokin-Mods/Innokin-MVP-3-30W.Html?cPath=66_100

At least then you have Much more battery life and a mod that Should you choose to, can fire much better tanks.
 
UKDTweak said:
My money for a lipo DNA200 would be on teh Efusion at the moment, but if you want a dual 18650 then hold ona few more weeks, Lost Vape are working on one, i have it on good authority from Lost Vape. I sent them details and spec for mine as an example of how small it could be and they were keen and said they were hoping to release one in 30-45 days time... that was a week ago...
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I've found my first annoyance with the DNA200 in dual 18650 config, although the issue is more surrounding the batteries.

I thought I'd give mine a bit of a torture test and throw an RDA on with a build that could take plenty of power. The batteries are sagging extremely hard at 100w. Resting they we're showing 3.7v on both cells and while firing they're dropping to 3.11v and 3.15v
 
Well 3.7 is nominal voltage for an 18650, they will always say but at 100w its going to sag sadly more so as your pulling more volts, a Lipo would sag too but not as much, but if your batteries are decent then your safe down to about 3v, Escribe actually lets you set the per cell cut off, default is 3.09v (some batteries are safe down to 2.8v), ive set mine to 3.2v and ive managed well over 500 puffs before getting Weak Battery at around 40w.
To be fair its nothing new, a sigelei or IPV would be doing the same, just you dont have the software too see it like you can with the DNA200..

When mine registers Weak Battery, i find the resting voltage to be around 3.45-3.54v per cell.. dropping to 3.2v under 40w load...
 
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UKDTweak said:
Well 3.7 is nominal voltage for an 18650, they will always say but at 100w its going to sag sadly more so as your pulling more volts, a Lipo would sag too but not as much, but if your batteries are decent then your safe down to about 3v, Escribe actually lets you set the per cell cut off, default is 3.09v (some batteries are safe down to 2.8v), ive set mine to 3.2v and ive managed well over 500 puffs before getting Weak Battery at around 40w.
To be fair its nothing new, a sigelei or IPV would be doing the same, just you dont have the software too see it like you can with the DNA200..

When mine registers Weak Battery, i find the resting voltage to be around 3.45-3.54v per cell.. dropping to 3.2v under 40w load...
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This is with a pair of LG HE4s

When I got home and plugged it in rest voltage was ~3.9v with ~380 Puffs using an Atlantis V2 with a nickel coil. (470F 100w preheat) Charge was apparently 61% so this really is a single charge from waking up to going to bed for me
 
Well a lipo of 1300mAh might not last any longer, ive yet to hear how many puffs anyone has managed on a 1300mAh lipo yet, but i know the 900mAh wont even last a day and in Watt Hour terms, 2x 18650 beats the 1300mAh but at least you can safely carry spares to swap out if needs be.. so i think its a good trade off.

900mAh lipo = about 10wh
1300mAh lipo = about 14wh
2x 18650 of 2600mAh or higher is going to be Over 18wh...

So allowing a lipo has less sag.. a 1300mAh may be equivalent in puffs/life to 2x18650... but you cant easily swap out your lipo on the move can you.
 
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jesus2nd said:
Cheers buddy, any tank recommendations?
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well if your new to vaping, then a clearomiser is a best starting point... but the best they have is:
http://www.vapeescape.co.uk/Deluxe-...Kit/Aspire-K1-BVC-Glassomizer.Html?cPath=7_88

If you want Much better and to get into rebuilding then this is the best they have:

http://www.vapeescape.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=66_101&products_id=1056

To be honest, for a beginner, the MVP and Zephyrus are probably too much... but if you get serious the Zef is a great tank. The store does not have much decent stuff left..
 
UKDTweak said:
So a 75w temp control mod and a sub tank with the RBA?
I would go with 6 wraps 28awg kanthal on a 2.5-3mm Diameter and do a single coil at around .5-1ohm...
or
24awg Titanium and 4-5 wraps 2.5-3mm diameter, about .2ohms and temp control :)

The latter being my preferred choice. Assuming you have ordered a Good High drain battery for your mod!!
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Okay great I will have a shop around and get some on order so it's ready for me when required. Thank you

I went for two Efest Purple 18650 2500mAh 35A IMR High Drain with a Nitecore Intellicharge i4 V2 rather than using the USB cable how does all that sound?

Will have to look into what temperature to set and what factors to take into consideration as I am sure dependent on type of liquid preference etc this all differs but a good base line to work up from should be the best start point I would imagine.
 
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The Efest 2500MAh 35amp if authentic are very good batteries, i use them myself and the Nitecore is a decent charger so all good.

The Sig 75w has the TCR for NI200 only, not Titanium wire, so you will have to make allowances for the NI200 TCR it will use, this means lower temp settings to get the same result, id start at around 300F/150c and work from there.

Make sure the Titanium is Grade 1 ...
 
Been having issues since upgrading to the Mod. Not getting the hit and a nasty burnt taste after a draw! I'm still new to this so popped into a store opposite my house and they completed some tests on the 2 tanks I had. While the Pro Tank 3 (v2) had a "new coil" it wasn't great.

Thankfully I had a spare coil for the Nautilus Mini and immidiatley saw a difference in the draw and hit (forgot I actually had one to be honest). While I was there they tested a sub ohm tank on my battery and WOW - I think that's my next upgrade :D

Feeling better about buying the mod now, it's working as I expected, just a pain it wasn't from the offset.
 
UKDTweak said:
The Efest 2500MAh 35amp if authentic are very good batteries, i use them myself and the Nitecore is a decent charger so all good.

The Sig 75w has the TCR for NI200 only, not Titanium wire, so you will have to make allowances for the NI200 TCR it will use, this means lower temp settings to get the same result, id start at around 300F/150c and work from there.

Make sure the Titanium is Grade 1 ...
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The batteries are from a reputable seller with a ton of positive reviews with "genuine" in the name and finally the price reflecting the authenticity :p so should be okay!

When it comes to wire I have had a quick google search and hope I am not being an idiot but I have no problem finding the correct AWG you suggested but the diameter values in which keep cropping up for Titanium are 0.5MM and 0.32MM for Kanthal? Sorry to be a pain. Appreciate the advise going to be watching plenty of youtube videos and reading up on the rebuilding side of things so I'm more prepared.
 
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UKDTweak said:
The Efest 2500MAh 35amp if authentic are very good batteries, i use them myself and the Nitecore is a decent charger so all good.

The Sig 75w has the TCR for NI200 only, not Titanium wire, so you will have to make allowances for the NI200 TCR it will use, this means lower temp settings to get the same result, id start at around 300F/150c and work from there.

Make sure the Titanium is Grade 1 ...
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I'm not a great fan of the Efests tbh.

I've got one of the "35"amp 2800mah batteries and it definitely didn't last as long as a Samsung 25R. It also got a little warmer when pushing a bit with a Mech
 
I have 3 2500mAh and 4 2800mAh, all bought from Torchy and they all outlast my 25r's, its the 2800mAh i use in the DNA200. Never felt any of them getting warm.
There are dodgy ones out there though and they dont perform like they should and should be binned...
 
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