Trading the stockmarket (NO Referrals)

Cashed out my S&P 500 ETF today as I'm wanting to buy a new car. 11% up after two years. Not bad. But now need to start again once I've bought my car!
 
NotAGolf said:
If you're investing in Vanguard trackers (S+S Isa), is the Vanguard platform cheaper than H&L?

I'm with H&L at the moment. When I opened it years ago, iirc the fees were pretty negligible unless you had 10's of thousands in. Is that still the case? If so, any idea where the switchover point is?
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slinxy said:
I can't see how not buying from Vanguard directly be cheaper than using a 3rd party to make the transaction.

from what I've seen of H&L as my nephew in law uses them, they are a bit of a rip off in fees.. some say the costs are covered if you trade enough as you get better prices but most of my funds just go into vanguard and I have a small amount into 212 as I think I'm the wolf of wallstreet... lol
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H&L is cheaper if you stick to ETF's not funds, it depends how many trades you make.

Essentially, on H&L within an ISA, the fee is capped at £10,000 balance, which is exactly £45 per year.

This is equivalent to holding £30,000 on vanguard.

You then need to calculate trading costs on top of this.

If we round H&L's trading cost to £12, the cost of 1 trade is equal to holding £8000 on vanguard (for 1 year)

Therefore, assuming you buy VWRL within an ISA on H&L exactly 4 times per year, this is equivalent to £62,000 on vanguard

If you buy it monthly, then this is equivalent to £126,000 on vanguard


If you are @ H&L you can trade a ETF/Fund which are the same thing, so buy vanguard fund, then, once you reach £10k in that fund, you sell it, and purchase the equivalent ETF.

The cost to hold that 10k for another year, will be £45 exactly, and the trade is £11.95, so you'll save £33 on that trade for the 1 year period.

You then purchase the fund monthly or whatever, and once again u reach £10k, or close ish, you repeat the process.

This allows you to do 1 trade per year, while not doing 1 trade, bringing it down to £38,000 per year equivalent. (well assuming you save 10k per year).
 
@platinum87 - I don't disagree with anything there - fee's are important to research and understand, but in reality have one less posh coffee from starbucks a month and your probably saving the same amount of money..... :cry: :cry:
 
200sols said:
The fee for certain investments including ETFs is capped on HL (£45 in ISAs, £200 in SIPPs) whereas vanguard charge a percentage fee so if you have a large amount invested vanguard is not always the cheapest.
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JunkBot said:
It’s cheaper to buy vanguard funds on T212 as there is no account fee which there is on Vanguard.
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platinum87 said:
H&L is cheaper if you stick to ETF's not funds, it depends how many trades you make.

<snip>
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It be interesting to see how the price spread affects the costs, from my experince with T212; the price at purchase is always higher and the price at selling is always lower than the markets.
 
slinxy said:
It be interesting to see how the price spread affects the costs, from my experince with T212; the price at purchase is always higher and the price at selling is always lower than the markets.
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Also no matter how good T212s rep is, it just feels like something that wont be here in 50 years (compared to Fidelities, Vanguards etc).
 
slinxy said:
It be interesting to see how the price spread affects the costs, from my experince with T212; the price at purchase is always higher and the price at selling is always lower than the markets.
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You can always set a limit order rather than market. If you are investing for the long term the spread probably doesn’t really matter anyway.
 
I keep trying to tell myself that I'm getting my shares cheap at the moment... but is anyone's portfolio in the green?
My work shares (single company) are down 17% percent, but they are heavily incentivise, some being free shares after a time period, some being pre-tax reduction, some being fixed priced at a set time.
My Vanguard is down 4% and my personal T212 is down 9%, I dare not loging to my penisons at the moment.. :(

Just need to keep on trucking...
 
slinxy said:
I keep trying to tell myself that I'm getting my shares cheap at the moment... but is anyone's portfolio in the green?
My work shares (single company) are down 17% percent, but they are heavily incentivise, some being free shares after a time period, some being pre-tax reduction, some being fixed priced at a set time.
My Vanguard is down 4% and my personal T212 is down 9%, I dare not loging to my penisons at the moment.. :(

Just need to keep on trucking...
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If you're in it for the long term, these short term movements don't matter. Just keep buying.
 
slinxy said:
I keep trying to tell myself that I'm getting my shares cheap at the moment... but is anyone's portfolio in the green?
My work shares (single company) are down 17% percent, but they are heavily incentivise, some being free shares after a time period, some being pre-tax reduction, some being fixed priced at a set time.
My Vanguard is down 4% and my personal T212 is down 9%, I dare not loging to my penisons at the moment.. :(

Just need to keep on trucking...
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Sticking mostly to trackers takes most of the worry out of it for me. In individual shares a 17% move is not uncommon at all.
 
I cashed out around 1st aug (I mentioned it on here) mainly because I can't see it as long term any more, it's worked out ok and I am just collecting Vanguard interest on cash (not the best rate but my plans are not clear at the moment)
Anyone drip feeding and in long term need not worry as said
 
As I'm a lot older now the accepted wisdom is to start pivoting much more in to bonds but the idea disgusts me. :p
I know I'll probably have to do it though.
 
Simon said:
Surely your discount and tax free exceeds the 17%
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yes... we get double shares that mature at a certain date and it helps me not to fall into the 40% bracket.
it's the shares packages that I that I pay into for a fixed price post tax that matures on a certain day, both are below the current market price at the moment but they don't mature till next year and the year after that, when I have the option to not buy them and get my money back.
 
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