Type R and VTEC owners

Stuff to look out for on when viewing a UKDM DC2?

I've been doing a fair bit of looking around and I think I have a good idea, rusty arches caused by dat gap, watch for dodgy gears, bushes... anything else I'm missing?

Advice appreciated you smart motors type chaps.

:edit: Your car looks awesome -Ad-
 
Check it idles steady at 800rpm (turn air con off for this test), it may be around 1200 until it has warmed up.

Check for smoke on vtec (2nd or 3rd gear vtec)

Check the spare tyre well for any dampness, rear light seals will be leaking unless they have been replaced. £50 job

Check that it's had very regular oil changes, Honda's recommendation is every 3000-6000 miles depending on driving type

Check the Honda badges are nice and red, they're 40 quid each to replace!

May seem simple, but check that the VIN on the body, engine and documents match



I'd sign up to itr-dc2 forum and check the sales section
 
bledd. said:
Check it idles steady at 800rpm (turn air con off for this test), it may be around 1200 until it has warmed up.

Check for smoke on vtec (2nd or 3rd gear vtec)

Check the spare tyre well for any dampness, rear light seals will be leaking unless they have been replaced. £50 job

Check that it's had very regular oil changes, Honda's recommendation is every 3000-6000 miles depending on driving type

Check the Honda badges are nice and red, they're 40 quid each to replace!

May seem simple, but check that the VIN on the body, engine and documents match



I'd sign up to itr-dc2 forum and check the sales section
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Cheers dude, am all over itr-dc2 but thought I'd check with this place too. For some crazy reason I trust you lot :p
 
Seen! Seemed like there was enough there but I wanted to consult the Motors hivemind :D

The one I'm looking at is actually from a member on there, big work log thread so extra confidence there.
 
NathWraith said:
has relentless just bought a type r.

Oh the ironing.
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Not really, its not an EP3, the FN2 has a much nicer interior. I've owned plenty of cars with a high revving NA engine most of which were Honda's, seeing as though the FN2 is one of the only choices that isnt French this side of 2005 with a high revving petrol 4 pot then its no surprise
 
Zero Pope said:
If not and you own one, why not start one? I don't own any of the cars in these owners threads, although I have owned some. I still enjoy reading and if I ever have reason to share my little knowledge I'll post in them too.
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I probably will, I don't recall seeing one.
 
If it doesn't smoke that's a massive plus but It'll need a re-bush and that bubble on the rear arch is worrying considering it was ripped apart 12 months ago for a respray.

Re-bushing is by the by at this age, nice if done but not a necessity with the inclusion of overall costs. Rust and Smoke are the big factors that you want to walk away if there is any.
 
Muffin` said:
that bubble on the rear arch is worrying considering it was ripped apart 12 months ago for a respray.
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That's what I was thinking, I did ask about it and he gave all the right answers, but why would there be that bubble there otherwise?!

Seems to be no mention of a clutch either, would I be right in saying that it's on its last legs if it's the original?
 
pretty much

330 for the oem kit iirc - labour is four hours I think off the top of my head, also a good oppertunity to do the rear engine mount if it's not been done
 
Zefan said:
:edit: Your car looks awesome -Ad-
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Ta :D

Zefan said:
That's what I was thinking, I did ask about it and he gave all the right answers, but why would there be that bubble there otherwise?!

Seems to be no mention of a clutch either, would I be right in saying that it's on its last legs if it's the original?
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He's certainly spent some money on the car and looked after her which is a good thing. Lots of nice little bits done, tidying up and bits sprayed here and there.

But don't let your focus be drawn away from the mechanicals, it's the most important area of these cars and they are meant to be driven, not just oogled.

He's replaced some bushes an odd wheel bearing etc, but ideally everything should be done at once (if you can), so you have a well setup, essentially new suspensioned up car to drive around in. At this age all cars should be completely redone as a preventative meanurse, rather than just doing corrective bits here and there.

Still £3800 isn't bad, but for me the problem is that rust on the drivers side. That is terminal and will keep coming back unless every infected part behind there is cut out, 1yr for that bubble isn't very good at all. It's rusting from the inside out! My drivers side has a little bit of rust coming back, but I had my arches done not far off 3yrs ago.

Finally, if it's on the original clutch @110k then I'd change it anyway and whilst you're at it get a 'Competition Clutch' 3.4kg flywheel put in (~£190 for the part). It's a single material flywheel and should be better than the Alu/Steel Fidanza. You won't get charged any extra labour and it's imo one of the best things you can do to the car. It can take a little getting used to, but it really gives a good performance boost and much better than wasting your money on airboxes and exhausts chasing a few bhp.

Email my trust if you'd like any further help, I'll try to remember to check that email address.
 
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Rust mate..... My ITR got 3 spots nad each time it gets fixed it comes back. Same on my mates old ITR. Rear done them 2 times in 4 years. And It was back this year again... What -Ad- said. Once honda gets rust thats it. You need whole element replaced otherwise it keeps coming back.

Not oil smoking ITRs exist ??? Only if they had engine work done. When i was looking for ITR all 6 i seen smoked on vtec. All of them had over 90k miles on. Steve done 25k miles in hes oil eating itr same as mine 1l/1k. But damn he sold it with 190k miles done with no engine work done. And that Itr was around track 5 times each year. Only way to kill B18C is to run it with no oil or trash it while cold. So as long as you keep Oil above minimum at all time you are ok. Its around 900f job to get it fixed just so you know.

Lets Face it ITR are all 10+ years old. And since those cars ware build to last by this time. They need cash invested as most of owners just used to put petrol in and run it. Some of them not even bothered with proper oil changes.

If I would look for another ITR. I would try to find CHEAPEST one and drop 2000-3000 pounds on it. Respray + Engine work + Brakes + suspension. At lest you know what you got then. Not promises that it was driven slowly over. But thats me. I payd for itr 4k and invested another 2k and i got rust and smoke on it anyway :P
 
Thanks for the advice guys, certainly helps hearing a lot of different opinions.

So in reality, it doesn't matter how well scrubbed/treated the arches are, once they've started rusting they need to be totally cut back and redone? That sucks the major balls.

There's also the cracks in the back of the roof rubber rails, not sure how common or how bad this is really
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Reduced the price a month ago saying this...

price drop to £3200 offers! cant believe this has not sold yet havent even had one viewing!!
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Not one viewing since February!

Putting the rust issue to one side slightly for a second I think that given what he's said there, as well as other things I can potentially bring up, he'd probably take £2700 for it. Is it worth that though...? My mind is le blown.
 
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Exactly the same issue on the Insights with caulking shrinking and cracking over time.... leads to a water leak.

Odd that it wasnt rubbed out and new caulking put in on the respray though!
 
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