Type R and VTEC owners

Something is wrong yeah lol will find out tomorrow hopefully.

3k to be fair includes stuff like tyres (6 so far lol), wheel refurb, some audio and interior bits, oil changes quite regularly 6k but I'm doing about 17k a year so it mounts up with good oil, I had a broken window regulator which was a pig and worked out expensive, valve clearances, pretty much everything servicable has been serviced... but I have spent a lot, I am a bit mad. Only things left to change are aux belt and fuel filter but not too desperate.

750 inc's eibach sportline springs, camber bolts @ front, camber arms at rear, superpro caster increase polybushes, track rod ends, labour to fit, FRSU, think thats most of it so it mounted up a lot. I've ran it lowered for about 2000 miles since mid nov and it's been sound, only this weekend has it made the noise after collecting it friday. But I did have it waxoiled at the same time as drivers new ball joint, the exhaust was removed for this and arch liners so hopefully it's something simple but if not...

2 new ball joints on between sept and now so hopefully they haven't failed.

Will let you guys know what we find.
 
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Well, my hubs split and the ball joint had fell out of it!

Great :( Need to source a second hand one asap, stupid money from honda, couldn't have happened at a worse time (nowhere open, no couriers working) when I need my car most now.

Was trying to get covered on a spare car the garage has but their insurance is closed and my insurance wont cover me on it as it's not insured already nor owned by me, not taking no risks with insurance.
 
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Stormster said:
Well, my hubs split and the ball joint had fell out of it!
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Is this on the side you just had the ball joint replaced? If so this is hardly a random event, the upright (which is the bit that holds the ball joint) has clearly been damaged at some point (during ball joint fitting most likely), there is simply no way it should have failed in that manner otherwise.
 
I don't know what to think really.

The guys are new in business and have been great to deal with and I do trust their work, they were both shocked and apologetic and couldn't realise why it'd happened. They're completely knowledgable and I've seen some of the race cars they've built, also one worked for a very well respected mini tuner for many years nearby in Eccleshall, basically they're really caring about their work and I believe their workmanship is good. They really were shocked to see a split hub where the ball joint sits.

I don't know what to do really... if it can be sorted cheaply thats great, they've offered labour @ a VERY VERY reduced rate and if we can get a hub with abs sensor, wheel bearing etc all fitted from a breaker then it wont cost a lot, they've got me a replacement ball joint FOC, full alignment again FOC so in reality about £30 quid in labour and whatever the hub costs but... I really do think they're sound guys and I wouldn't feel right in pushing complete blame and thus cost onto them if I am honest.

But what I will do is try and get them to sort me a car to drive as I mentioned above, as I am gonna be stuck relying on taxis at silly cost.
 
I think they are taking you for a mug tbh, if they changed the ball joint it's definitely their fault. Hub knuckles simply do not just split and fall apart.
 
my VTI had its MOT today and looks like 165k is as high as its going to get to :(

worst/most expensive failure - unexpectadly (as it stops on a 2pence) - was on rear brakes effeciency, I knew the handbrake was dodgey, but assumed it was just adjustment needed :(

in total car needs

2x rear calipers
1xdrop link
1x rear door handle

total £520 - still in 2 minds - but really its too much to pay for a car thats prob at the end of its useful life unfortunately

I'd sort of set a limit of £350

I've dumped the car (just up road from garage) in work carpark (private carpark) - whilst I ponder whether to go for repairs or call in a scrappy merchant

:(

now got a week (and use of my wifes car) - to decide whether to go for the CW FN2 I saw or a 330i, heart says the CW FN2, practicality (2 kids) says the 330
 
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Stormster said:
They're completely knowledgable and I've seen some of the race cars they've built, also one worked for a very well respected mini tuner for many years nearby in Eccleshall
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Off-topic to a degree but if the Mini tuner is the one I think it is begging with an 'L' then it's hardly a plus point. They fitted new springs to my car and in the process destroyed one of the CV boots with their sloppy work and expected me to pay for it and also lied to me about welding my exhaust due to a mistake they made. Only saying as the work might not been up to the standard you are being led to believe. He may not have even been there when the work was carried out but it is just something to consider.
 
Buckster said:
my VTI had its MOT today and looks like 165k is as high as its going to get to :(

worst/most expensive failure - unexpectadly (as it stops on a 2pence) - was on rear brakes effeciency, I knew the handbrake was dodgey, but assumed it was just adjustment needed :(

in total car needs

2x rear calipers
1xdrop link
1x rear door handle

total £520 - still in 2 minds - but really its too much to pay for a car thats prob at the end of its useful life unfortunately

I'd sort of set a limit of £350

I've dumped the car (just up road from garage) in work carpark (private carpark) - whilst I ponder whether to go for repairs or call in a scrappy merchant

:(

now got a week (and use of my wifes car) - to decide whether to go for the CW FN2 I saw or a 330i, heart says the CW FN2, practicality (2 kids) says the 330
Click to expand...

Drop links are £20 a pair and exchange calipers ( if really needed ) are £100 each
 
Have made it quite clear I want my car spot on upon receipt, it will be next week now as waiting for a replacement hub to be delivered in the hope its ok with hub carrier, drive flange, wheel bearing, abs sensor etc... I aren't one for second hand bits but I can't afford brand spanking at the mo.

So, fingers crossed it'll come good, they've lent me a car and wont be charging me anything now. I've said I want it properly tested before I get it back as I don't want it rushed for me and to have more bother. I'm fine aslong as I can get about.

It's just one of those things, I am giving them the benefit of the doubt, just hope the car is fine after it all.

The MOT fail above, 520 is loads! I've not been paying those kinda prices for some of the work I've been having done lately so I think a couple hundred inc labour MAX and you're set if you wanted to keep it :)
 
Buckster said:
my VTI had its MOT today and looks like 165k is as high as its going to get to :(

worst/most expensive failure - unexpectadly (as it stops on a 2pence) - was on rear brakes effeciency, I knew the handbrake was dodgey, but assumed it was just adjustment needed :(

in total car needs

2x rear calipers
1xdrop link
1x rear door handle

total £520 - still in 2 minds - but really its too much to pay for a car thats prob at the end of its useful life unfortunately

I'd sort of set a limit of £350

I've dumped the car (just up road from garage) in work carpark (private carpark) - whilst I ponder whether to go for repairs or call in a scrappy merchant

:(

now got a week (and use of my wifes car) - to decide whether to go for the CW FN2 I saw or a 330i, heart says the CW FN2, practicality (2 kids) says the 330
Click to expand...

Calipers, look on brakesint and also try wanapart (phone or email them)

Mine were 70 quid for oem integra rears from brakesint on exchange basis.

Drop links are roughly 20 quid if that.

Door handle, breakers? Tenner max

90s Honda cars are known for having bad calipers, I just never leave the handbrake on now
 
first one looks like a tidy example bar the rubbish looking wheels and questionable aftermarket exhaust would put me off.

second one, is it a JDM? the carpets and seats dont suggest so but maybe someone like Chris with a bit more knowledge can say yes or no. K&N typhoon is a downside, but it comes with the OEM airbox. looks tidy, scene points for Championship white but depends if it is the original colour. I would personally have a lot of questions about this car.

third is arguably the best of the three. reasonable mileage, paint looks very clean, OEM fit nav unit, prem edition is a bonus, you get the nice seats and momo wheel. pre lowered on the 'go to' lowering springs for the car [may be worth getting a FRSU done for peace of mind if you were to purchase?]. only downside i can see is the price, but im sure you could get a few hundred off that.
 
bledd. said:
Calipers, look on brakesint and also try wanapart (phone or email them)

Mine were 70 quid for oem integra rears from brakesint on exchange basis.

Drop links are roughly 20 quid if that.

Door handle, breakers? Tenner max

90s Honda cars are known for having bad calipers, I just never leave the handbrake on now
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thanks gents - I've been not relying on the handbrake for a long time ...

the car did fail on a bit more than I'd said - it also failed on emissions andlights (failure list was 2 pages long !)

in total they were going to fix:

engine cleaner to get through CO emissions test (currently at 0.4, 0.2 is a pass)
2 bulbs
replace 2 rear callipers
replace handbrake cable
replace door handle

parking brake had been measured at 9% efficiency ...

the £520 quote included parts and labour, unfortunately I don't have the skills to repair myself

problem is the door window doesn't work (failed ages ago), the car has done 165k miles, and its due an oil change, and tyres are at 3mm

so I can see in next 1-2 months I will have to spend in total £700 ish - on a car with no sell-on value

its tempting to do the work - I just think its wasted money probably

that said the cars I'm looking at are all >10k, so relatively getting the car fixed is the cheap option!
 
Muffin` said:
Not a factory one
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thought not.


in other news, anyone able to shed any light on this for me?

Got my HIDS4U 35w kit today and whilst fitting it i noticed that the power cables for the ballasts dont fit into the connector block well enough to be tight.

they are very loose and i am concerned that it could damage my new and very expensive HID kit.

does anyone have any tips or links to an adaptor or thicker spade fittings that would mean i can plug the power cable straight into the power connector for the bulbs?

looking into it further, the h1 bulb appears to go into a H4 holder with one of the prongs missing? is this a H7 fitting?

20130103_132902.jpg


also, the ballasts make a slight buzzing sound, is this normal?
 
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