http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1998-R-Re...?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item4abbb4f3c8&_uhb=1
Maybe I should just buy this one and have done with it! £8k :/
Maybe I should just buy this one and have done with it! £8k :/
Type R and VTEC owners
- Thread starter ChrisD.
- Start date
Stop looking at ones with low mileage that look pretty, they just arn't worth spending that much money on. These cars are meant to be driven, not tucked away in a garage looking pretty.
And these fancy low mileage ones will still have shagged suspension bushes that will be nearly 14yrs old. Rubber just doesn't stay fresh no matter how they try and spin it.
Get a well used car that's had the work done, don't waste £7-8k, most of which you won't ever get back as you'd be a mug to pee that much money down the drain.
PRETTY!!!!!!
http://www.itr-dc2.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=101377
And these fancy low mileage ones will still have shagged suspension bushes that will be nearly 14yrs old. Rubber just doesn't stay fresh no matter how they try and spin it.
Get a well used car that's had the work done, don't waste £7-8k, most of which you won't ever get back as you'd be a mug to pee that much money down the drain.
PRETTY!!!!!!
http://www.itr-dc2.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=101377
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They will all rust, especially UK ones, they are getting old now. Unless they have been undersealed and had problem areas where rust can start sorted earlier in it's life then the rot will come.
Don't worry soo much about rust, a gearbox or engine rebuild will cost you a lot more. Then don't forget you NEED to buy a car that has had the suspension, all bushes, steering bushes/track rods done, or budget to do it yourself. I did all my new suspension and brakes and it came to over £2k for parts and not far off 3months up on axle stands in the parents garage.
Don't worry soo much about rust, a gearbox or engine rebuild will cost you a lot more. Then don't forget you NEED to buy a car that has had the suspension, all bushes, steering bushes/track rods done, or budget to do it yourself. I did all my new suspension and brakes and it came to over £2k for parts and not far off 3months up on axle stands in the parents garage.
One of my best mates is a honda mechanic and can also get trade price on parts. I'm also confident with most mechanical things apart from engine/gearbox internals.
But bodywork & rust is something I could never tackle myself and something I'm worried about being bodged by bodyshops. It's also one of the reasons I'm getting rid of my 99 UK MR2, its starting to creep in
But bodywork & rust is something I could never tackle myself and something I'm worried about being bodged by bodyshops. It's also one of the reasons I'm getting rid of my 99 UK MR2, its starting to creep in
After all the rattling and non starting of my brothers EP3, all is now well.
The garage changed the chain and tensioner, luckily no valve damage and hopefully he's learnt a lesson in the process.
His car does have a slight idle issue, the garage have diagnosed the Idle control valve, they've tried cleaning it but i think i'll give it a go too as its not helped. The garage said the IACV was a Honda only part at approx £200!
The garage changed the chain and tensioner, luckily no valve damage and hopefully he's learnt a lesson in the process.
His car does have a slight idle issue, the garage have diagnosed the Idle control valve, they've tried cleaning it but i think i'll give it a go too as its not helped. The garage said the IACV was a Honda only part at approx £200!
One of my best mates is a honda mechanic and can also get trade price on parts. I'm also confident with most mechanical things apart from engine/gearbox internals.
But bodywork & rust is something I could never tackle myself and something I'm worried about being bodged by bodyshops. It's also one of the reasons I'm getting rid of my 99 UK MR2, its starting to creep in
That's good to have/know.
Focus on a JDM car then as it will have had many less years on the salty/wet UK roads.
I love my UK car and am a UKDM'r at heart, but boy these 98 specs look stunning!
And that's the worry with a 14yr old engine that's clearly not been run very much. I'd take my 80k over one like that any day, at least I know it's been driven properly and has coped with it well!
I think the IACV is the same part as used by the DC5, and it is indeed a dealer-only part and when I replaced mine I certainly remember it being upwards of £100. They are pretty easy to swap though.
Soldato
- Joined
- 24 Sep 2005
- Posts
- 20,185
- Location
- Middlesbrough
So I'm probably going to go for the DS2500 pads on Friday when I get paid but I'm still shopping around for cheaper alternatives.
Saw this on ebay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-Civ...ivic|Cars+Type:2.0+Type-R&hash=item35b5e85516
Now Brembo are supposed to be a reputable brand but are these just more bling over function?
They seem awfully cheap.
Saw this on ebay. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-Civ...ivic|Cars+Type:2.0+Type-R&hash=item35b5e85516
Now Brembo are supposed to be a reputable brand but are these just more bling over function?
They seem awfully cheap.
Soldato
- Joined
- 24 Sep 2005
- Posts
- 20,185
- Location
- Middlesbrough
Yeah I'll give them a miss. Would rather buy something I trust 
/goes off to buy some MTEC Black Edition discs...
/goes off to buy some MTEC Black Edition discs...
I have Brembo OE spec pads on the front of mine at the moment. They are absolutely fine for normal driving, but will fade when pressing on hard, just like the Honda OEM pads will. I've just stripped and rebuilt a set of later calipers for mine as the pistons are quite corroded on the ones currently fitted and tend to stick. I'll be putting DS2500s on when I fit them.
I have standard discs on the front of my EP3 and bought some DS2500 pads to go with them for a track day at Snetterton.
The braking performance was awesome, no fade at all - definately gave you a good amount of confidence for upcoming corners.