Type R and VTEC owners

-Ad- said:
Why on earth do you do that? :p

My Way
1. Ensure engine has been on for a short while.
2. Jack up car, put on axle stands.
3. Get under with your drip tray, take out sump plug and drain oil.
4. Jack up car a little, pull out axle stands and lower car as required to get as much oil out.
5. Jack back up onto axle stands and fit sump plug back in, remove drip tray.
6. Untighten oil ftiler by hand, or if tight ram a screwdriver through and loosen.
7. Take off filter, put some new oil on seal, install tight be hand. Check tightness again.
8. Complete oil change as normal.
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You forgot to turn the engine off first ;)
 
Muffin` said:
do what?
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Roll bar off! No need and it's a lot of hassle.

Jonnycoupe said:
Plug out whilst you take filter off aswell, lets all the oil drain back assuming you have a proper not return valve in the filter....!

I have an Aldi rubber band wrench, its awesome. Biggest pain on my insight is getting the aero undershields off.
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Cheers, will do that. Every little helps.

ci_newman said:
You forgot to turn the engine off first ;)
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Won't do any harm leaving it on, it's a Honda after all :D:D
 
sods law...

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I had HAMP filters on my EG6 and ITR. I can confirm that it DOES rise oil pressure while idling according to my defi oil pressure sensor vs standard filter that i got now. So with next oil change i am going back to hamp. But i can try that k&n one for fun of it :D
 
Dup said:
MX5 and K20 have the filter in a tough place but I managed on both. Access through the wheel arch much easier than from the top! :)
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Exactly. If you don't have limp wrists you can undo it by hand (wearing rubber gloves for grip) provided it wasn't fitted by a gorilla.
 
Ordered 20mm H&R Hubcentric Spacers from Larkspeed.

Box turns up today, from Euro Car Parts, bottom of the box is hanging open. Mum has accepted the parcel but not signed for it. Driver even said 'This feels very light'

Box is empty.

Turns out Larkspeed order their stuff from Euro Car Parts, as they're the H&R Suspension distributors for the UK.

I'm now trying to get my spacers. Best 25th Birthday Ever.
 
Finally my parts came after what has been ages! Can't wait to get the new sump on/camend seals/gasket etc. Should stop the leaks! Will get all the fluids changed too. Unsure about doing VC's at the moment has it did have them done 7 months ago. May get them done and EGR cleaned. New ARB bushes and drop links and the car should be ok.

EDIT: Cl_newman how much do TGM charge you for a service, and what does it involve?
 
just pricing up a new T304 centre section as mine's rusted through on one of the bends before the back box.

I think I'll just make them extend the pipe so it mates right up to the manifold, the less joins the better amirite? Don't need a cat on a 1990 :p

just wondering if it'll be too loud without any silencers. Might be an idea to ask them put a box in the middle.
 
Vita said:
Finally my parts came after what has been ages! Can't wait to get the new sump on/camend seals/gasket etc. Should stop the leaks! Will get all the fluids changed too. Unsure about doing VC's at the moment has it did have them done 7 months ago. May get them done and EGR cleaned. New ARB bushes and drop links and the car should be ok.

EDIT: Cl_newman how much do TGM charge you for a service, and what does it involve?
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Depends what you want doing at the service mate? Oil change I think is sub £100. I think I paid around £250 or so for a major service less valve clearances, ie all fluids changed etc. This is all off the top of my head so you'd be better off phoning up.

I'd look into getting your injectors cleaned by the way, lads on the ATR forum are seeing good results by doing them as well as the EGR.

EGR can be done yourself, will take a few hours to do but it's fairly easy.
 
MilanoChris said:
Depends what you want doing at the service mate? Oil change I think is sub £100. I think I paid around £250 or so for a major service less valve clearances, ie all fluids changed etc. This is all off the top of my head so you'd be better off phoning up.

I'd look into getting your injectors cleaned by the way, lads on the ATR forum are seeing good results by doing them as well as the EGR.

EGR can be done yourself, will take a few hours to do but it's fairly easy.
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Injectors in mine have been ultrasinically cleaned and flow matched and VC's done in August last year. Major headache at moment is the oil sump leaking. I'm unsure on whether to do them again or just leave it. Engine is quite tappaty at moment but I'm thinking thats because of the oil leaking. I'm going to get all the fluids changed for piece of mind, bushes done should be ok then hopefully.

EGR I will attempt myself then, but I thought with the car at a garage may as well do it all at once. Going to give them a call tomorrow and see what they quote me.\

EDIT: Forgot to ask Chris was that including parts+labour or just labour?
 
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screwdriver + hammer is easy and costs nothing and is better than any of those tools as it it will fit anywhere. if you have to get one though the chain ones seem the best. I made one out of a old cam chain and jubilee clip and it worked wonders. Only problem it was useless where access was tight.
 
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adam cool dude said:
screwdriver + hammer is easy and costs nothing and is better than any of those tools as it it will fit anywhere. if you have to get one though the chain ones seem the best. I made one out of a old cam chain and jubilee clip and it worked wonders. Only problem it was useless where access was tight.
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Yeah and you get oil everywhere as you split the filter. Amateurs use bodged methods.
 
I tried to get the filter off a K20 with a chain and it just wouldn't budge. Ended up getting it off with the screwdriver method. It's a right ****.

I will buy a proper removal tool for next time though :p

Simon said:
Yeah and you get oil everywhere as you split the filter. Amateurs use bodged methods.
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You always learn for the next time though :D
 
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