I don't remember sorry. Engine seemed fine.
Type R and VTEC owners
- Thread starter ChrisD.
- Start date
I don't remember sorry. Engine seemed fine.
Soldato
Ok, I'll have to wait and see.
I've had a bit of a look about and the current local market for ATR, Accord Type-S and ST220 is frankly appauling
I'm in no hurry though, so I'll keep lookingDamn the monies are burning a hole though!
Octavia vRS? I love mine
Yup, it's certainly a pricey service. You either need to get bent over by a main dealer, go to a good independent or do most of it yourself. I did most of mine myself as well and didn't need air or cabin filters so it didn't work out so bad.
In other news, I washed my EP3 yesterday and looking out the window at it I can't help but think a DC5 would look better parked there.
Soldato
In other news, I washed my EP3 yesterday and looking out the window at it I can't help but think a DC5 would look better parked there.
I have the same thing with my FN2
Crank pulleys are often a solid metal centre (where it bolts to the crank) a big thick rubber ring and then the outer pulley bonded around that.
The rubber is in place to act as a vibration damper, harmonics etc. so when people replace these with solid aftermarket stuff they end up with trouble
The rubber part in the middle CAN fail which is what i suspect yours has.
Old age, damage when removing/refitting or simply having an ancilliary on too tight can do it.
i just hope that the nose of your crank (ie where the pully bolts on) is still good. if thats damaged then you have a big headache on your hands
Sell those EP3 and FN2 and buy a DC5 then
Would have looked at yours if I had the cash, looked like a cracking example.
Soldato
That is is exactly what I'm worried about. The nose of the crank. If that's bent then It'll be a replacement engine. Something which I'm not prepared to pay for. What worries me more is the crank pulley didn't fall off it just stayed bent like in the picture.
To be honest the few issues it has, oil leak at sump and cam end seal I have the parts for and will fix. After that I'll just sell it. I've had the experience and it's not a bad car when working right. Just fed up to be honest.
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Soldato
Have you whipped it off yet? Get some pics up, then you could have the collective might of ocuk to find you a new car, tell you what you need to replace and give you internet mechanic advice
Haha.
It's at the mechanics, I thought I'd let the fully qualified handle this as I'm not really knowledgeable on that subject.
I am in two minds but think I'd rather let it go tbh. It's a great car, great engine, but I'm just worried that it may end up costing me more to maintain then I have budgeted so it makes sense for me to let it go. That could be the case with any car though, depends on what you purchase.
Pulls really well in all gears and sounds awesome at the same time. Once I have the issues fixed then I'll make a final decision. It may end up to be fine for 2-3 years. I do not know and I'm unsure if it's a risk I'm willing to take.
I am veering back to Subaru ownership, but a classic wagon turbo now. Something which has been looked after and not at the cheap end of the market. I need a practical estate type car, I prefer the boot space. With the Subaru I have the option to remap/4wd/bigger boot. The only downside is the loud exhaust option which most seem to have. On long journeys it does end up getting annoying. But what can I say, the ATR isn't exactly sound proofed.
The ATR has a big boot, but no roof rails/foldable seats - I'd like to have those. It's something which I can't seem to live without. Growing up with estates in the family I think I'm too used to having those options in a car.
I really did purchase it on the VTEC Experience/needing 5 doors. So it ticked the boxes. I should have anticipated more about how the car would end up and read much more into it. A mistake which won't occur again.
I'm going to look into it more and look at a few examples before I purchase. Always have made the mistake of purchasing the first car I view. Something which has kicked me in the teeth afterwards.
wheels/tyres experts
I have a set of AD08 tyres in 215/45/17 on my car.
plan is to move them to a second set of alloys and run potenzas on the other set.
the problem i have is that i cant find a nice set of OEM alloys to put them on.
I am currently considering EVO 9 wheels as i have seen some on an EP3 in this thread.
http://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/s...smic-Ep3-Type-R-K100-RBC-Fitted-new-pix/page2
my car is not lowered so I know they should fit the car fine, the guy in this thread is running 205/45 tyres
what i need to know is, will my AD08s fit the EVO wheels?
the evo is an 8 and the ep3 is a 7 i believe
if they do fit, will they be stretched and will this compromise the performance of the tyre?
these are for track work so i want them to be 100% perfect & reliable.
if its a stupid idea, let me know so i can move on and forget about it
I have a set of AD08 tyres in 215/45/17 on my car.
plan is to move them to a second set of alloys and run potenzas on the other set.
the problem i have is that i cant find a nice set of OEM alloys to put them on.
I am currently considering EVO 9 wheels as i have seen some on an EP3 in this thread.
http://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/s...smic-Ep3-Type-R-K100-RBC-Fitted-new-pix/page2
my car is not lowered so I know they should fit the car fine, the guy in this thread is running 205/45 tyres
what i need to know is, will my AD08s fit the EVO wheels?
the evo is an 8 and the ep3 is a 7 i believe
if they do fit, will they be stretched and will this compromise the performance of the tyre?
these are for track work so i want them to be 100% perfect & reliable.
if its a stupid idea, let me know so i can move on and forget about it
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sorry, what i meant was, they will be used on track as well as the street, but i wanted to make sure they would be fine handling the extra demands of track use.
aye, saw your reply Chris, thanks for that. i think i am going to leave it and carry on waiting for a decent set of OEM wheels to crop up.
AD08 is an ultra performance road tyre. It's not an outright track tyre or semi slick, though it is advertised as a street and track tyre IIRC.
It's generally a bad idea to get a semi slick tyre for track use till you are used to the car. Also K20 will suffer oil starvation with a semi slick as will many other engines without a baffled sump if the driver has the ability to corner to the tyres full ability.
It's generally a bad idea to get a semi slick tyre for track use till you are used to the car. Also K20 will suffer oil starvation with a semi slick as will many other engines without a baffled sump if the driver has the ability to corner to the tyres full ability.
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Soldato
Random question how - much oil does an fn2 k20 need for an oil change? I've read everything from 4.4 to 5.2l. Just dictates if I need to buy an extra litre!
I do not possess these abilities
get 6 Will
the engine takes 5 but you will want an extra litre to play with if you want to fill it up to the top marker on the stick.
Associate
I'm sat waiting for a kind Civinfo forum member who lives locally come to take me out for a spin. He has a Champion White FN2 with various mods, including Martelius exhaust and GruppeM induction. Both of which are mods I plan to buy myself so will be good to see/hear/feel them first hand.
It always make me feel warm inside that there's good, honest people kind enough to offer. I've had various people take me out over the years from owners clubs, all great guys and it really does help to aid you in your decisions.
I know I'll be jealous from the offset as I love the CW editions, but didn't want to spend the extra £3-4K for a CW.
It always make me feel warm inside that there's good, honest people kind enough to offer. I've had various people take me out over the years from owners clubs, all great guys and it really does help to aid you in your decisions.
I know I'll be jealous from the offset as I love the CW editions, but didn't want to spend the extra £3-4K for a CW.