Type R and VTEC owners

Normal hardtop looks pretty excellent, the spoon or mugen roofs look the 'tagged on' extras that they are, trying hard to ape the Z4 coupe rear end but somehow not looking quite right. That two tier boot above is just awkward as anything.
 
NathWraith said:
I'd just stick with the normal.hard top for winter months and have the roof down as much as possible any other time
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I quite like the mugen roof. Not keen on the dual boot thing going on with that spoon one.

And Nath. By the time I get an S2000 you will have enough time to grow your hair long again. We can have the roof down all the time and you can wave your straighteners in the air whilst we VTEC our way to the salon.
 
bledd. said:
Whilst firing off a jdm flare
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Ie17FZ6.gif
 
Mugen suspension fitted today...needs a proper alignment now (I had the garage fit with camber bolts and the kit they have isn't sophisticated enough to do a proper setup).

Ride is improved, firm still but not as crashy. Will need a proper setup before I want to push it properly though...but I can tell its going to be good :D

Also done some datalogging, getting a guy called Vitviper to do me an 'E-Tune' - he seems rated as one of the best K20 Flashpro mappers, and is based in America. The Flashpro seems a great bit of kit, being able to properly record up to 7.5 hours of data makes an E-tune a viable option and nowhere near as dodgy as it seems as a concept:

1) Load base map supplied by Vit (based upon your car and mods)
2) Use datalogging function to record a 20-25 minute drive using the flashpro handset plugged into OBD port
3) Email datalog to Vit
4) Get tweaked map to upload again...go back to part 2 (sometimes with specific requests e.g. he will request a 3rd gear pull from 1500rpm to 5500rpm to be included)

I'm on my fourth map revision and its already better than the Group N map, way smoother. From reading around most people get over 20 map revisions before Vitviper is happy with the map....it costs me ~£111 to get the car mapped like this.

Now for a map from one of the established tuner, its £250 for maybe 4-5 dyno runs to get a map sorted, maybe 2 hours on the dyno? I know there are advantages to using a dyno for mapping (checking specific load sites under relatively controlled conditions etc) but unless you spend hours and hours on a dyno I can't see how its a better approach than datalogging and mapping 'on the road'?
 
why have you got 17s on an FN2. surely they will look lost in the arches?

you could always add tyres with a massive sidewall and be heavily criticized by 90% of Motors

'because draghybrid' :p
 
ci_newman said:
Dare I ask how much you've spent on the car since buying it? Every day you seem to be adding more things to it..
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Too much probably. But wont be changing it for at least 4 years.

I have bought most of my mods second hand this time around - airbox, exhaust and wheels were all less than half the new retail price, and the garage I am using for fitting anything i havent done myself is very cheap indeed.. So not quite as silly in cost terms as you might think from reading.. Andrew Moore has spent eleventy billion pounds more on his fn2 I'm sure :D
 
rjkoneill said:
why have you got 17s on an FN2. surely they will look lost in the arches?

you could always add tyres with a massive sidewall and be heavily criticized by 90% of Motors

'because draghybrid' :p
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I wanted a set for Track. I might drive around on them until I wear the current tyres out :p

Stock are 225 40 18 (7.5" Rim ET 55)

Evo 8 are (8" Rim ET 38) tyres I plan to go for are 225 45 17. Which is £50 less per tyre than the 18s!

Handling I expect to be similar or better, I believe the Enkei are a kilo or so lighter, I'll put up some pics when I get them fitted.
dessimpson said:
I gave a set of those away. With tyres when I sold my Evo 8.
Kinda beginning to wish I hadn't :)

I think I've got 2 full sets of nuts in the garage too.
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They're very popular with the Honda EP3 crowd.
 
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I'm not sure tbh. I've never really looked into it. They should JUST about fit my FN2.

The Evo rims will stick 23mm out further than stock.

At the moment I have stock rims, with 15mm spacers at the front, and 20mm at the rear. So I'll remove those, and I should be good to go :)
 
I hated them at the time. I replaced them after about a month and left them in the garage the whole time I owned the car.
Don't know why though as I don't mind them now and even looked at buying a set.
 
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