Type R and VTEC owners

rjkoneill said:
so muffin, is your teg dead then?
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If it needs another x grand of work, then yes :(

Guy is too busy to look right now but I will find out in due course.

Sounds like this, no idea how long it ran like this I heard it as I came into the pits, then shut it off as soon as I realised it was the engine.


 
bledd. said:
Get a new engine from r-motion, they're not far from you
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He's already spent a lot on his engine rebuild last year :(

Not liking the sound of that knocking, although I'm an engine noob anyway :(


On my plus side, I've just found out that my new job offer car allowance doesn't have any restriction other than the car being roadworthy, so my Teg will get a monthly cash boost :D
 
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Muffin` said:
Going rate is 2k, not sure I can stomach it. I'll wait to see what caused it, oil usage seems way too high again. 1L in 30 mins? Doesn't seem right :(
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Sure your seals haven't gone? My h22 in the Accord spunked all it's oil out via the crank seal. I didn't get any knocking from what I remember, however it did seem like my release bearing was rattling inside the gearbox housing, and my gears did go stiff.

Wasn't worth fixing the car, and it I think my engine did need a rebuild. £2k was the cost. You could always go k20 swap.

This is what puts me off old Hondas, most seem to be headaches unless you spend a lot of money on one, and even then you could quite possibly purchase a better car.

Really sucks.
 
K20 swap, new mounts, K20A2 + Box from a breakers, work + additional parts (gear stick, cables, drive shafts etc etc) will put you in at around £3k inc the work probably more as youll also need ECU, mapping, kswap manifold etc etc

Hopefully it will be big end bearings so you can get it fixed. New crank may be in order though if its been thrashed around track.

Good luck with it mate, fingers crossed here too!
 
probably big end from the sound of it. my ST sounded the same when it starved itself.

gutted for you mate, hope you can get it sorted quick/cheap

could always K20 swap?
 
K20 or K24 with and R head is the holy grail but a lot of time and money. 5k minimum and I don't have a healthy engine to sell on to fund it :p

I've got to wait to see what the garage says, it did go in in December 2011 for a rather expensive rebuild to get rid of oil consumption issues.
 
imho its the gearbox. a k20 wuld probably be sub 1k if you look around but a diff equipped gearbox is going to be 600+

that doesn't include the ancillaries either. would just be such a shame to scrap it :(
 
Muffin` said:
K20 or K24 with and R head is the holy grail but a lot of time and money. 5k minimum and I don't have a healthy engine to sell on to fund it :p

I've got to wait to see what the garage says, it did go in in December 2011 for a rather expensive rebuild to get rid of oil consumption issues.
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What did they find out in December 2011, as in why was it drinking a lot of oil?
 
Muffin` damn man... This is ****.. How much did that engine rebuild cost You ?? You had any warranty on it ??
If bottom end is dead got for B20 frankenstein :) I was thinking about that option for ages.

My Crazy mates stripped GTRs engine apart last week to put upgraded rods in.
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If they get it to 720hp like they plan without blowing it up. I will let them change my Piston Rings and stem seals. That should get oil consumption down to sensible level heh...
 
Vita said:
What did they find out in December 2011, as in why was it drinking a lot of oil?
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Remove engine and gearbox
Strip engine block and cylinder head assemblies. Hot tank components to clean thoroughly.
Block sent to engineering works (see below*)

Install oversized pistons to conrods
Rebuild engine block with new bearings, pistons, rings and new gaskets and seals
Rebuild cylinder head with new gaskets and seals
New camblet, tensioner, water pump and aux belts

Install customer supplies clutch and fly
Renew engine oil, filter, coolant and gearbox oil
install customer supplied mugen airbox
road test -ok

*Engineering work
Re-bore and fine hone cylinders
Reface block deck -005"
Polish crank journals
Renew valve guides and ream
Re-cut valves and valve seats
Re-face cylinder head -003"
 
FAO Valkia, still around? If so is your Accord lowered and if it is did you need camber adjusters?

Reason I ask is the FL Type-S is 15mm lower than the previous models which do need camber adjusters so I'm wondering if the facelift doesnt need them

Thanks
 
Muffin` WTF this looks like proper job. I would take it back to chaps that did the job and ask WTF is this. Or You did not had any Warranty on it ??

If i will be fixing oil drinking i am just going for new rings and seals. Cheap option but at lest when engine blows up i get another one heh.
 
Relentless81 said:
FAO Valkia, still around? If so is your Accord lowered and if it is did you need camber adjusters?

Reason I ask is the FL Type-S is 15mm lower than the previous models which do need camber adjusters so I'm wondering if the facelift doesnt need them

Thanks
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Valkia is still alive.

I'm facelift with just Eibach pro-springs - no adjustment.
 
Sounds like a catastrophic failure of something to lead to that consumption considering the work on the engine. Sump plus/oil filter in place?
 
Pistons and rings match the bored head properly? oil pressure is much higher in vtec than none vtec, this could have forced the oil in to the chamber to burn perhaps?
 
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