Type R and VTEC owners

I always stuck Pro S 5w40 in my Civic, I've actually got 2 left over 1L bottles of it, no use with the MX5! Anyone want to collect it, you are welcome to it :)

I always gone with fully synthetic stuff for my cars...

Fiesta ST - Motul Ford 5w30 913C Specific oil (won a load of free motul oil in a magazine competition, got a cars worth of motul coolant, engine oil, PAS fluid, gearbox oil... :D)

Civic Type R FN2 - 5w40 Fuchs/Silkolene Pro S

MX5 - Whatever Mazda stuck in when they serviced it.
 
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I always found Pro S to burn quickly and make my engine noisy. I didn't do track days so started using Shell Helix 5w/40 and it didn't drink as much nor sound as noisy. Cheaper too. But Pro S is well regarded so it can't be too shabby :)
 
MilanoChris said:
No idea to be honest. I'm genuinely curious about this, not trying to be a pain.
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I think we have to give Simon some slack, he works for a big company with Social Media guidelines. I know personally when working at smaller company's I wasn't allowed to talk about the company's projects at all, so I'd assume he's constrained in what he can say about his employers products and competitors.

Catrol, Mobil and Shell all make oil for engine manufacturers and as far as I can tell the usual Oipe Oils Specials don't (Honda in this case). We the public lack any ability to scrutinize the oil manufactures claims but the engine manufacturers don't, so I say we just go with what they recommend and leave the magic beans to the Jacks of this world.
 
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I don't know why you would use oil that doesn't meet the manufacturers spec, most people on these forums (meaning car specific forums etc) don't really know much and the fact it doesn't burn doesn't mean it's doing the engine any good. Same with the ***** on the Civic forums that go on about Syon tyres.
 
Simon said:
Sorry my bad, thought your meant the Nano stuff.

Yeah that's a decent oil for the EVO running high power (Fuel dilution can be pretty high on these)
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Milano chris has linked to the Nanodrive stuff.

As for the manufacturers using certain oils. Maybe Castrol pay them to push the stuff?
 
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TaKeN said:
I asked the chap at Opie Oils what the difference is between edge and the fuchs titan oil.

Edge is a group iv

Fuchs is a group v

See here >> http://www.civinfo.com/forum/1736505-post37.html
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What is the difference on a K20 between and Group 4 and a Group 5?

Is this interpretation not too dissimilar as brake fluid classification? e.g. When we see DOT 3, 4 and 5 we presume the higher the number the better but there's actually more to it than that. Also the possible serious consequences if you put DOT 5 in an incompatible system :eek:
 
The impression I got is that the Fuchs can cope with higher temperatures better.

That alone is the reason I want it. The oil gets a hammering on track as you know. I see where you're coming from with the brake fluid comparison. But I can't see it causing damage! Surely if there was a problem we'd have K20 engines failing all over the Internet.. with owners pointing fingers?
 
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TaKeN said:
I asked the chap at Opie Oils what the difference is between edge and the fuchs titan oil.

Edge is a group iv

Fuchs is a group v

See here >> http://www.civinfo.com/forum/1736505-post37.html
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Fuchs isn't all group V. That is salesman fluff.

Related to that post. Castrol are now Hondas Europe lube partner and the products have to meet specifications set by Honda. These aren't available in public domain and Honda don't have their own specifications yet.
 
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TaKeN said:
The impression I got is that the Fuchs can cope with higher temperatures better.

That alone is the reason I want it. The oil gets a hammering on track as you know. I see where you're coming from with the brake fluid comparison. But I can't see it causing damage! Surely if there was a problem we'd have K20 engines failing all over the Internet.. with owners pointing fingers?
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It technically has no reason to cope with high temperatures. In fact some of the VW approval tests do a lot more to the oil that anyone could do in their own car. 150c+ oil temperatures. Yet it only see the large oil companies with products capable of these difficult specs

A lot of the 'pro ester nano tech' stuff has very basic specs. FWIW anything below 100microns is 'nano'. Diesel soot is a nano particle.
 
K20's do blow up but there's too many variables to know if it is the oil. If the engine is standard then why wouldn't a to specification oil be not up to the job of temperatures? If it is getting too hot then look at the cooling system IMO.

edit* 2 slow
 
TaKeN said:
Milano chris has linked to the Nanodrive stuff.
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I have linked the oil which is in my Evo and according to the spec on the page it meets the following:

API: SM, CF
ACEA: A3 / B4
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I asked the retailer that I bought it from and he linked me to the page above asking what I was talking about. :confused::D He is under the impression that oil cannot be sold unless it meets some of those specs. He's from GB Enterprises.

As above, I'm not trying to be a pain. I just want to ensure that I am running the correct oil for my car, however I do admit that I find it frustrating that Simon cannot allude to which oils to use. Nevertheless I understand his reasons as has been posted in this thread and I think I can read between the lines.

It does raise interesting questions, do manufacturers use certain oils (that meet specifications) because of cost based reasons or because of longevity and/or performance reasons? I'm guessing that those know can't divulge this information based on disclosure agreements etc.

I guess what I am getting at personally is if I can run an oil that is half the price of what I am currently using then I'm all ears. The reason why these oils mentioned sold by the likes of Opie Oils and GB Enterprises are raved about on forums are because they are marketed well by the retailers on said forums. Does someone that posts 'this oil is great' base that post on oil usage and the fact that their engine hasn't gone bang since it was put in? Probably. Does this mean the oil marketed is bad for our performance cars? Probably not. Does this mean that there may be oils out there that are theoretically better and cheaper? Well, this is what I'd like to know, by someone know knows rather than someone on a forum that put it in his EP3 and feels the need to say 'yeah bruv it's an ace oil, nice packaging'.

Rant? I don't think so, just felt I'd elaborate what I've been thinking about.
 
Grant was running some of my development oils in customers Evos last year for a project we started and I have lots of used oil analysis from these and hence why I like thick oils in some of these Japanese turbo engines. Fuel dilution can hit 7%.

Grant and I go back a long way from the Rover days. He came to a RR years ago when we disappeared for a bit to map the DTA Ecu on my old Rover turbo.

As to oils. If I said use Castrol all the time people would accuse me of being bias, this is why I try and provide enough information for people to come to their own conclusion. I do find if difficult to provide any more information on a public forum though.

I also provide oils to an S2000 in the VTEC challenge. Even after 1000 race miles the oil still looks great and has stayed in grade with minimal wear metals. I have comparisons to other popular oils too...
 
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Thanks for the replys Simon. I've read the above and tried to take it on board! After a day of farm work that's slightly difficult!

is the Fuchs on a par with the Castrol edge? (in terms of engine protection)

I'm slightly confused as to whether I'm being advised not to use the Fuchs as it will cause engine damage? or if it's because it's overkill for my engine and therefore a waste of money?
 
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TaKeN said:
Thanks for the replys Simon. I've read the above and tried to take it on board! After a day of farm work that's slightly difficult!

is the Fuchs on a par with the Castrol edge? (in terms of engine protection)

I'm slightly confused as to whether I'm being advised not to use the Fuchs as it will cause engine damage? or if it's because it's overkill for my engine and therefore a waste of money?
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I think others experience would suggest no damage would occur. But I see no reason why you need to pay a premium over something like EDGE (which is obviously the best oil ever :p )
 
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