Type R and VTEC owners

[TW]Fox;27662114 said:
What did Honda actually do to the car? Was it just a service, if so how could anything they done have caused the chain to go anyway?
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Valve Clearances, Oil + Oil filter. They took it for a test drive afterwards. The car prior to the service was fine, on the day of the service it failed. Quite a coincidence if you ask me. Some Valves were tight and some were very loose when I checked.
 
They are supposed to check the chain at the time of the valve clearances and advise on its replacement, otherwise it lives as long as the car does! That's part of the major service.

As for a misshift... they would be able to read the ECU at the point of failure and see the max rpm the engine reached. I remember one being posted on CTRO many years back where misshift blew an engine.

K20s aren't cheap sadly, but you might be lucky to find a replacement top end. Best asking TDi North etc to see what they have or what they can get.
 
Vita said:
Valve Clearances, Oil + Oil filter. They took it for a test drive afterwards. The car prior to the service was fine, on the day of the service it failed. Quite a coincidence if you ask me. Some Valves were tight and some were very loose when I checked.
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When you get the car back, just double check the filter is actually on correctly, as with the sump plug. As unlikely as it could be, if they were't tight and it seeped enough oil out, dropping the oil pressure enough would knacker the tensioner allowing the chain to slacken on the gear change...
 
Got 2 tyres ordered, going to see how much the garage charges for fitting brake pads before i get them.
got Kumho Ecsta Le Sport KU39 theyre reasonably priced. was going to go with Goodyears but just booked a holiday so skint for now

Looking at Brembo rear pads and Ferodo DS2500 for the front.
 
[TW]Fox;27661262 said:
lolllllllllllll spend it on a 10 year old S2000 instead!

Oh wait no you'd never even more for that :eek:
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Actually that's a fair point. If you do a search on AT for 10 year old or younger S2k's, this is the cheapest one:

http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classif...80uj/maximum-age/up_to_10_years_old?logcode=p

Surely a better buy than a Civic?

Anyway, shouldn't you be in the BMW thread, unveiling shock revelations such as the 530D having worse economy than a 320D, and winter tyres being loud on non-snowy surfaces?:p
 
S2k should have been a "red badge" Honda;)

I don't like a few things about the car, including the badly painted rocker cover, the gear gaitor, the painted calipers and of course pre-facelift alloys. It's still better than a Civic though.
 
I've had my FN2 CTR GT for a couple of weeks now and I absolutely love it.

They don't seem very popular on forums, but I think its great fun. I used to own a DC2 and it still has the same DNA and it is very clear to see. I've driven an EP3 at length and I prefer the FN2 in most respects. Nicer noise, better steering, MUCH better interior and the looks are marmite but I've always liked these. I do understand the argument that its beam setup is inferior to the independent setup on older models, but it doesn't seem to spoil Renaults in my experience, which are always pretty good to drive even if they do fall apart.

I've had quite a long car history that includes MR2s, MX5s various hot hatches and a 350Z but this is probably my favourite car of all. I've just demolished a tank of petrol on consecutive weekends and came back grinning from ear to ear, its that noise, just can't get enough of it, such a nice cammy sound. There won't be another hot hatch quite like this ever again and I'm quite sad about that.

It come with a "Hondata" and this seems to improve the car quite a lot - it should have been like that as standard IMO.

It certainly feels quite fast even compared with the 350Z (although my Z was a porky convertible with ridiculously large and heavy wheels so was probably thick end of 1800 kg), and it feels as though it would smoke my previous car, an E46 328, and probably also the DC2 - the K20 feels much stronger than the B18 and it seems to have more grip too.

I love almost everything about it. The brakes feel like they fade a little, but some decent brake pads and fluid should theoretically take care of that. The seat design is a bit stupid (where it loses where it was before if you let someone in the back) but the seats are very comfy. I kind of wish it had an LSD but that would just be the icing on the cake.

It's not quite as good handling standard as a DC2 to be fair, but its certainly not far off at all and I think I prefer it to the handling of the EP3, but that's just my opinion, for what its worth. However, it is faster in a straight, I personally think sounds better. I think it is an absolute hoot of a car and probably quite underrated. And I quite like that it has SOME creature comforts, as I would miss them coming from other cars.

Here's how it looked after a good spanking earlier today.

11000341_10153128341139859_1755344414046343232_n_zpsn4zo2esm.jpg
 
It's pretty obvious if you miss shift, the car will slow down a lot as you start raising the clutch, it's a very unnatural feeling. Pretty sure the ECU logs highest revs, so it's either a miss shift or not.
 
What's the FN2 like if you're not changing at 6-7,000 rpm? I've read it's peak power is at 6,800 rpm but does it have a decent amount of pull lower in the rpm range?
 
I'd be surprised if peak power was 6,800, probably more like 7,800. I find the low rpm ranges is fine. You don't get the shove like a turbo, but the gearing is very low and the engine is tractable so its fine. Hondata reduces the cam changeover to 3,800 rpm which makes it feel strong in the midrange. It's a great engine, probably one of the best 4-pots ever made.
 
AndrewNR said:
Surely you have to be pretty ham-fisted to slam it into 2nd from 6th gear (and also doing about 70 or so I assume?), and like you mention do some kind of millisecond-saving racing clutch-in-clutch-out job?
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No not really, it can be easily done especially when on track! A little easier in the K20 box over the F20 as the S2000 box does not like box shifts. I've mis shifted in my DC5 a couple of times, but you definitely know you've done it and you can get off the clutch quick enough. If you're giving it hell for leather you could easily go very high on the revs.

But it's digressing, I'm 99% sure the ECU logs an over-rev situation, the dealer will be able to see this using diagnostics, so I fail to see how they 'think' it's a miss shift.
 
Whilst buying an EP2, what mileage limit should I set myself? What is the engine lifespan like on these (rough idea)? I can see lots of ads with civic which have mileage of 120k+...

There's not a lot of decent civic's within 60 miles from my postocde...
I found these so far: http://www.gumtree.com/p/honda/hond...r-supplied-with-a-6-month-warranty/1101464472 and http://www.pistonheads.com/classifi...rt-3dr-manual-hatchback-petrol-manual/3640085

I would prefer to buy a car with a warranty, or get the car checked before buying it at Official Honda Mechanic. That's what we did whilst my dad's friend was buying a car and even thought the mileage was 85k the car was well-looked after.

Edit:

http://www.gumtree.com/p/honda/honda-civic-1.6-vtec-sport/1101394393
 
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