Type R and VTEC owners

[-Ad-]

My Joy Machine

Works/Overhual
TGM Rebuilt Gearbox.
TGM rusty arches repaired.
OEM Engine Mounts.
Cambelt+bits.

Performance Autoworks - Fast Road Setup.
MesiterR Zeta-S Coilovers.
SPC Forged Alu front camber arms.
SPC rear camber arms.
Superflex bushes throughout.
OEM RTA bushes.
Inner/Outer TREs, OEM Drop Links, OEM Lower Ball joints.

Hankook RS2 tyres x4.
New calipers x4.
HEL Braided lines x4.
Carbone Lorraine RC5+ pads x4.
ATE Super Racing Blue Fluid.
Tegiwa brake stopper.

JDM Aesthetics y0
F+R New Honda Badges.
Tegiwa 3pt front brace.
Momo - late spec steering wheel.
Front Brace moved to rear.
Wrinkle Red sprayed cam cover and fancy earth strap.
Tegiwa Red stitched gearlever gater.
Tegiwa engine bay washers and bolts/nuts.


To Do
Momo Wheel re-trim in Alcantara/Perf leather.
Fit Comptech manifold.
Graeme Wight Racing - Full Custom SS Exhaust with repackable Carbon Silencer.
More undersealing.
General maitenance forevermore.

Kpr0 with 'Early Learning Centre' off shelf base remap

 

[sovietspybob]

nom Bride Seats.


looking at Gruppe M as a possible update down the line but have read that the Tegiwa offers identical performance for half of the cost, is there any truth in that?

The DC5 guys results seem to indicate that its pretty much identical performance. Seems the fit isn't quite as good i think but once you get it on its fine and is just as good as the real thing. I'd certainly get one over the genuine article if i ever end up in an EP3 or DC5 again.

 

[-Ad-]

The Tegiwa one should be the same.

But remember it isn't down to R&D, they just make an exact copy of other manufacturers stuff as best they can.

 

[Muffin`]

Better than the R1R I've used before, turn in is sharper with more feel and they should last a bit longer as they start with a few mm more tread.

Awesome

The Tegiwa one should be the same.

But remember it isn't down to R&D, they just make an exact copy of other manufacturers stuff as best they can.

After all 'TEGIWA' is Chinese for 'KNOCK OFF'

 

[Muffin`]

Currently driving a Renault Clio, FML

 

[rjk]

But remember it isn't down to R&D, they just make an exact copy of other manufacturers stuff as best they can.

assumed as much tbh. are the materials the same etc?
thought about a 2ns hand gruppe m but they are like hens teeth

am I correct in thinking that the tegiwa needs scuttleplate modifications?
from the reading I have done, a lot of people seem to suggest modding the scuttleplate anyway and disregarding the one included with the GM due to rattles in them midrange. any truth to that?

'TEGIWA' is Chinese for 'KNOCK OFF'

 

[Muffin`]

assumed as much tbh. are the materials the same etc?
thought about a 2ns hand gruppe m but they are like hens teeth

am I correct in thinking that the tegiwa needs scuttleplate modifications?
from the reading I have done, a lot of people seem to suggest modding the scuttleplate anyway and disregarding the one included with the GM due to rattles in them midrange. any truth to that?

Yeah I've heard the same, I've got a TEGIWA CAI for my DC2 and the quality is fine, not quite the same as the original but it's half the price

 

[bledd]

Meh, I've got the Tegiwa airbox, sounds great and fitted easily.

If I was buying suspension components, I wouldn't go with a 'copy' mind.

An airbox is just plastic/carbon/fibreglass, with a K&N filter (the same one Mugen use). Can't really go wrong

 

[-Ad-]

Meh, I've got the Tegiwa airbox, sounds great and fitted easily.

If I was buying suspension components, I wouldn't go with a 'copy' mind.

An airbox is just plastic/carbon/fibreglass, with a K&N filter (the same one Mugen use). Can't really go wrong

With you on this one, even though it is quite cheeky of them to do it. But in the end I'd rather pay under £300 and have quick delivery for essentially the same product as having to fork out double that for an official and 2nd hand most likely Mugen!

The thread on itr-dc2 about their billett suspension arms became a bit funny after myself and a few others questioned their Engineering Design and Calcs

 

[Muffin`]

The thread on itr-dc2 about their billett suspension arms became a bit funny after myself and a few others questioned their Engineering Design and Calcs

link!

 

[Relentless81]

Something that always makes me laugh is no one ever seems to be bothered about the quality of the cheap filters. Get an induction in an effort to increase power by letting more crap into the engine, seems a bit daft to me

 

[rjk]

Meh, I've got the Tegiwa airbox, sounds great and fitted easily.

If I was buying suspension components, I wouldn't go with a 'copy' mind.

An airbox is just plastic/carbon/fibreglass, with a K&N filter (the same one Mugen use). Can't really go wrong

ah, wasn't aware the filter was K&N will probably just go with that. I cant imagine that the carbon fibre bit and plasticy bits will be any different from the GM

But in the end I'd rather pay under £300 and have quick delivery

I noticed that they have GBP currency on their site, did a search on where they are based.

2 miles from my house

 

[Muffin`]

pm them on the forum and ask if you can pick it up to save on delivery

 

[rjk]

I will do, are they on Chris's forum at all?

cant see for looking

edit - I searched and found it but its on the old trader section. will use the contact form on their site.

 

[Seanoog]

I had my DC5 vtec @ 4350 and limit @ 8650 rpm - any higher limit = valve bounce.

This has always confussed me.

I am seriously considering a S2000 or MX5 2.5!
Favouring the S2000 for VTEC.

But with Tuning an Remapping the engines, how far can the VTEC range vary?
Is it possible to lower it to say, 2000rpm an raise idle to 1200RPM?

So ideally have standard map:
Idle: 800~
VTEC: 5000~
Limit: 8800~

Have ECU connected to switch, to activate Sport Mode.
Idle: 1200~
VTEC: 2000
Limit: 9200 (Or what's Safe for engine)

Just an idea?

 

[bledd]

You'd just be slurping through petrol at an alarming rate for little gain. The one thing every Type R I've driven could do with is a really long final gear, motorway driving feels really inefficient at 4krpm doing 70mph

 

[merlin]

You wouldn't want vtec engaging as you pootled around town - best to leave permanent vtec engagement for race cars.

 

[Simon]

This has always confussed me.

I am seriously considering a S2000 or MX5 2.5!
Favouring the S2000 for VTEC.

But with Tuning an Remapping the engines, how far can the VTEC range vary?
Is it possible to lower it to say, 2000rpm an raise idle to 1200RPM?

So ideally have standard map:
Idle: 800~
VTEC: 5000~
Limit: 8800~

Have ECU connected to switch, to activate Sport Mode.
Idle: 1200~
VTEC: 2000
Limit: 9200 (Or what's Safe for engine)

Just an idea?

Why would you drop VTEC to 2k rpm? the race part of the cam doesnt work there.

 

[ChrisD.]

I will do, are they on Chris's forum at all?

cant see for looking

edit - I searched and found it but its on the old trader section. will use the contact form on their site.

Yeah they are on there, but Jonny started to not respond to my emails.

Old traders bit should be hidden from Google, think I'll look at the settings again.

 

[sovietspybob]

You'd just be slurping through petrol at an alarming rate for little gain. The one thing every Type R I've driven could do with is a really long final gear, motorway driving feels really inefficient at 4krpm doing 70mph

If you stuff your gearbox and need it rebuilt a popular thing is to put in a taller 6th gear so you can cruise in comfort as you never need 6th on track anyway so its only ever a cruising gear.