Lies!
My calipers are red, well the carrier is. Need to do the new calipers all around to match the seats
Type R and VTEC owners
- Thread starter ChrisD.
- Start date
Lies!
My calipers are red, well the carrier is. Need to do the new calipers all around to match the seats
Soldato
- Joined
- 1 Oct 2006
- Posts
- 14,070
VHT Satin black going on mine when I get the new wheels/arches cleaned and sealed.
If it ever stops bloody raining.
Agreed. I'm super dull as the Type R stickers and badges have already fallen off mine; my only reservation about getting a Type R was it was a bit to shouty for me.
Soldato
Was going to paint mine silver to offset the (soon to be) dark wheels. But possibly considering blue as well.
Lies!
My calipers are red, well the carrier is. Need to do the new calipers all around to match the seats
In which case they've been painted.
This is how they look out of the factory.
So no, not lies at all.
TBH i thought the premier editions had all read calipers. the two that i looked at both did. must have just been coincidence.
in my case it was more about protecting them and stopping any rust tbh. seeing as the work is being carried out I thought I may as well brighten them up, but as Chris says, they aren't uprated so could come off as looking a bit silly.
I reckon some gloss black would look decent on there anyway.
I have some DS2500s at home but I think I will wait until my current pads are on their way out. That way I can chuck my money into a bit of an overhaul for it and get braided lines and high performance fluid done at the same time as the pads.
All my discs are pretty much new so I reckon I will just keep it like that.
TegiwaM coming next month, I have had my scuttle panel modded already so it should be fairly easy to sort out. looking forward to seeing the difference between the K&N Typhoon and the TegiwaM.
Then I have to look at getting the FRSU sorted. Bolts, Camber Arms and JDM ARBs are on the cards but this will happen when the PPI claim for my credit card comes through
in my case it was more about protecting them and stopping any rust tbh. seeing as the work is being carried out I thought I may as well brighten them up, but as Chris says, they aren't uprated so could come off as looking a bit silly.
I reckon some gloss black would look decent on there anyway.
I have some DS2500s at home but I think I will wait until my current pads are on their way out. That way I can chuck my money into a bit of an overhaul for it and get braided lines and high performance fluid done at the same time as the pads.
All my discs are pretty much new so I reckon I will just keep it like that.
TegiwaM coming next month, I have had my scuttle panel modded already so it should be fairly easy to sort out. looking forward to seeing the difference between the K&N Typhoon and the TegiwaM.
Then I have to look at getting the FRSU sorted. Bolts, Camber Arms and JDM ARBs are on the cards but this will happen when the PPI claim for my credit card comes through
IMO brakes and suspension should be sorted before any power upgrades. 
That's just me though.
I also think the whole high performance fluid thing is a bit of a con, I've got 5 year old fluid in mine and I didn't get fade once around the 'ring or Spa with everything OEM bar the pads (2500's). I also brake late and hard.
I'll be getting the fluid changed soon though as it's gone from looking clean to a little gunky in recent weeks.
That's just me though. I also think the whole high performance fluid thing is a bit of a con, I've got 5 year old fluid in mine and I didn't get fade once around the 'ring or Spa with everything OEM bar the pads (2500's). I also brake late and hard.
I'll be getting the fluid changed soon though as it's gone from looking clean to a little gunky in recent weeks.
the way I was thinking is that I can easily get £100 on the bay for my typhoon, should offset the price of the new intake a little.
I want to do the FRSU and brakes at around the same time so it will be costing me circa £600
I know what your saying but financially it makes the most sense.
I want to do the FRSU and brakes at around the same time so it will be costing me circa £600
I know what your saying but financially it makes the most sense.
I think there is a set on the DC2 forum, but I've had feedback from one user that they arn't the type of thing you'd want on the road and might not even last too well.
Great for a Hill Climb, but not soo much for the road.
Anyway, for a normal road going Teg the OEM Calipers are more than good enough if you use some good pads (CL RC5+, DS2500 etc) and good fluid. I use blank discs and at £50 a pair they are nice and cheap and work well!
But even for an EP3 just try some new pads, get some fluid in there and the system bled properly, then get your suspension spot on with a nice FRSU from Performance Autoworks/TGM etc and then learn how to drive it properly!
Soldato
Mine were fine on the DC2, you just need to clean and inspect them every so often. If you can avoid salty roads it makes a difference!
Willwood dynalite billets with 310mm x32mm rotors
Plenty of Wilwoods with seals aswell.
Willwood dynalite billets with 310mm x32mm rotors
Plenty of Wilwoods with seals aswell.
You probably don't. They are pretty good calipers for the price (i.e. very cheap compared to Brembo/AP etc.) and they are nice and light, but they aren't the most rigidly constructed items (esp. the cheaper ones) and many of them don't have dust seals which is a must on a regularly used road car IMO. Loads of kit cars use them, mianly due to cost and weight, but they don't tend to get the miles a tin top does.
Soldato
I am looking at buying a Honda Type R. The same car as above.
A few questions. Am i right in thinking the above car is the "FN2" ?
Are there different types of these "FN2's"? If there is different types, what are the differences?
Last but not least, what would i be looking to pay for one of these?
Many thanks
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Good call. Ensure you get one with round wheels. The example in the picture above has a square wheel but this is usually a result of Andrew Moore driving it into a pothole at irresponsible speeds.
The above car is an FN2. A decent 06 model will be in the range of £7000+
Obviously, later and better examples will command more of a premium.
They have the same engine as the EP3 (older model, see my sig) and generally have the same performance figures for 0-62.
The handling is regarded by many as being superior in the older model as the FN2 uses a torsion bar at the rear.
The FN2 is a little heavier than the EP3 so in order to combat this, they lowered the vtec crossover point to make the car feel more responsive.
FN2 has many more modern luxuries and gadgets than the EP3 but in fairness, if you want a hot hatch there are many options I would take over the FN2 and I am a big Honda fan.
The mesh grill at the front of the car is for the intakes, this is a type r and type s feature I believe, the lower performance and derv models have the headlight bar across the whole front of the car like you mention. A red Honda badge is the giveaway that it is a type r.
Other than that, running costs will be about 27-30mpg on longer journeys and 15-25mpg if you thrash it. They like higher octane fuel and high quality fully synthetic oil.
£260ish per year on road tax and reasonable servicing costs if you find a good specialist.
Hope that helps
The above car is an FN2. A decent 06 model will be in the range of £7000+
Obviously, later and better examples will command more of a premium.
They have the same engine as the EP3 (older model, see my sig) and generally have the same performance figures for 0-62.
The handling is regarded by many as being superior in the older model as the FN2 uses a torsion bar at the rear.
The FN2 is a little heavier than the EP3 so in order to combat this, they lowered the vtec crossover point to make the car feel more responsive.
FN2 has many more modern luxuries and gadgets than the EP3 but in fairness, if you want a hot hatch there are many options I would take over the FN2 and I am a big Honda fan.
The mesh grill at the front of the car is for the intakes, this is a type r and type s feature I believe, the lower performance and derv models have the headlight bar across the whole front of the car like you mention. A red Honda badge is the giveaway that it is a type r.
Other than that, running costs will be about 27-30mpg on longer journeys and 15-25mpg if you thrash it. They like higher octane fuel and high quality fully synthetic oil.
£260ish per year on road tax and reasonable servicing costs if you find a good specialist.
Hope that helps
Soldato
Many thanks.
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classif...e/1/postcode/ws31bf/keywords/type_r?logcode=p
So the car in the link above is not a type-R? I guess the only difference in the above and a type R is the power and price?
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classif...e/1/postcode/ws31bf/keywords/type_r?logcode=p
So the car in the link above is not a type-R? I guess the only difference in the above and a type R is the power and price?
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No definitely not. There are many styling differences between a Type R and standard. Obviously power too.
Soldato
ohhh okay. Obviously im new to these cars, the only difference i can see so far is the front lights. Type-r seems to have the mesh / red badge. Can't see much interior difference?
Is there a list of some kind i can scan through?
Woah. I think you are missing the point of a type r. Even the relatively watered down FN2 is much more handling focused than any other civic of the same shape.
Type r's are designed to handle well. Civics/tegs etc. there are many more differences than just the front grill and size of the alloys.
Perhaps take a look at some forums and videos online and it will start to make more sense.
That aside, the non type R variant tha you linked is not a bad car at all if you want a good reliable hatch and don't really care all that much about performance or handling.
They are very comfortable and not a bad place to be at all.
I just personally don't like the FN2 Type R.
Go and test drive some, will give you much more of a feel for them
Type r's are designed to handle well. Civics/tegs etc. there are many more differences than just the front grill and size of the alloys.
Perhaps take a look at some forums and videos online and it will start to make more sense.
That aside, the non type R variant tha you linked is not a bad car at all if you want a good reliable hatch and don't really care all that much about performance or handling.
They are very comfortable and not a bad place to be at all.
I just personally don't like the FN2 Type R.
Go and test drive some, will give you much more of a feel for them