Type R and VTEC owners

rodenal said:
They're pretty good on fuel really, knock 10-15% off that and you won't be far away.

Driven appropriately of course
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Sounds great. Thanks

When I was looking for them on another forum, I did see your car up for sale too (/stalker). Looks very nice but out of my budget

Good luck with your sale :)
 
mccarf said:
Sounds great. Thanks

When I was looking for them on another forum, I did see your car up for sale too (/stalker). Looks very nice but out of my budget

Good luck with your sale :)
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Thanks, tbh I've made zero effort to actually sell it just left it on there really to see if there's any interest!

They're (fn2) no good if mpg or comfort is of any real concern anyway
 
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rodenal said:
Thanks, tbh I've made zero effort to actually sell it just left it on there really to see if there's any interest!

They're (fn2) no good if mpg or comfort is of any real concern anyway
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I can swap you a semi broken octavia vrs for your good condition, more valuable CTR ;)

Well I'm mainly looking for reliability over my octavia vrs, which lead me to hondas. I would like a type R but they seem to have held their value much better than my octavia, so I'm just looking at the 1.8s now. The mpg seems nice on them (the 1.8) too which is useful since my job entails a lot of town driving.
 
My brother has got an EP3 04 Civic Type R and needs some work done, which I'll be doing.

1. Change drivers side wing - Is this a nightmare? Side skirt looks to be bonded on as well as screwed. Tiger seal sufficient? Does the front bumper have to come off?

2. Service - I've heard the fuel filter is a nightmare to do, is this true? The rest of it should be straight forward (Oil, Oil Filter, Air Filter, Pollen Filter, Spark Plugs, etc). Anything that's awkward out of this?

3. His rear pads are very low, particularly on the drivers side. Are the calipers known for sticky pistons/sliders? I'm hoping they aren't seized and I can free them off but are there known issues with them? I'd like to avoid replacing them if possible.

Cheers.
 
Not too sure about 1 and 3 but the fuel filter is not really on as a servicable item. It's about 40-50 quid and within the tank so I'd leave it to be honest and spend the money on doing the gearbox oil also.
 
Matt-Page said:
My brother has got an EP3 04 Civic Type R and needs some work done, which I'll be doing.

1. Change drivers side wing - Is this a nightmare? Side skirt looks to be bonded on as well as screwed. Tiger seal sufficient? Does the front bumper have to come off?

2. Service - I've heard the fuel filter is a nightmare to do, is this true? The rest of it should be straight forward (Oil, Oil Filter, Air Filter, Pollen Filter, Spark Plugs, etc). Anything that's awkward out of this?

3. His rear pads are very low, particularly on the drivers side. Are the calipers known for sticky pistons/sliders? I'm hoping they aren't seized and I can free them off but are there known issues with them? I'd like to avoid replacing them if possible.

Cheers.
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1. Side skirt is not bonded on but needs to be removed to take the wing off. Two bolts in engine bay under the plastic cover, 2 more bolts behind the plastic cover (Clips off) next to the side mirrors and one more bolt right at the bottom behind the side skirt and it comes off, takes around 15 mins to do.

2. Fuel filter is bit of a nightmare and can be done but to be honest, they don't need doing, I dont think I've ever heard of Type R's having fuel problem due to a bad or dirty filter and I go through tons of these cars. The rest is very easy to do.

3. Seizing or sticking calipers is a common fault with all EP3 Type R's especially the rear ones as people over look them compared to fronts. You can get replacement pistons, seals and all for not a lot of money although I would spend a tiny bit more and just get replacement calipers. I think a front caliper is around £70 each with your old one in return from Euro car parts and rear around £60. Quite simple to swap around aswell if you know what you're doing.

Hope that helps, anything else, Just ask :)
 
If anyone ever has a non-volatile EPS fault code logged, don't bother buying an iCarsoft i990 or a Creator C330 (same system, different case). Despite claiming to erase the fault codes, they simply don't.

I rebuilt a late model EP3 rack a while back, and converted a worm gear from an old scrap rack into a cutting tool in order to relieve the tight spots on the plastic worm wheel (which is what causes the tightness in the EP3 racks, not the plastic slide bush as some claim). This worked very well indeed, the rack was so free I could turn the input shaft by hand with ease, unlike any EP3 rack I'd had before.

Unfortunately when I installed it, it seems the torque sensor connection wasn't clicked fully home, so though it worked initialy, the next day it stopped working and flagged a torque sensor circuit fault code. Unlike many EPS codes which will be automatically reset when either the fault clears or by disconnecting the battery, this fault is stored in non-volatile memory and has to be cleared before the EPS can start working again.

I just managed to do this using a built in fault code clearing method, which is described in the manual. This requires the SCS (Service Check Signal) pin in the OBD2 connector to be grounded (pin 9) but for some reason my OBD connector had no pin in this position (possibly country specific?). I had to pull the carpet up, unbolt the EPS control unit and ground pin 8 of the white 20 pin connector (brown wire). For anyone that might need this, the sequence is:

Don't jack the car up, the front wheels must be on the ground as we need to operate the torque sensor.

1) Start with steering pointing straight ahead
2) Ground SCS pin
3) Ignition on
4) EPS light will be on. Within 4 seconds, turn the steering about 45 degrees to the left.
5) Wait for the EPS light to go out.
6) Turn the steering wheel straight again, don't leave any tension on the steering (hands off)
7) Wait for the EPS light to come on.
8) Within 4 seconds of the light being on, turn the steering about 45 degrees to the left again.
9) Wait for EPS light to go out
10) Turn the steering wheel straight again, don't leave any tension on the steering (hands off)
11) EPS light will flash twice. Codes are now erased.
 
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on their way to dealers then.
 
Is it just me that thinks those new Civics were designed by a 5-year old? The concept looked so good in-comparison to what they've actually produced...

Not a big fan of the spaceship Civic before this, but it looked better. I still think they should have done a Civic with nice squarey curves like the newer Accord or a facelifted version of EP series. :)

Edit:

Isn't Ford Focus RS a big competition to this Civic because its;
- Cheaper
- More Powerful
- AWD

?
 
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Soul.Survivor said:
1. Side skirt is not bonded on but needs to be removed to take the wing off. Two bolts in engine bay under the plastic cover, 2 more bolts behind the plastic cover (Clips off) next to the side mirrors and one more bolt right at the bottom behind the side skirt and it comes off, takes around 15 mins to do.
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Ta. Looked at his new wing which look like it had glue/bonding where the side skirt met it. Glad we wont have to do any of that.

2. Fuel filter is bit of a nightmare and can be done but to be honest, they don't need doing, I dont think I've ever heard of Type R's having fuel problem due to a bad or dirty filter and I go through tons of these cars. The rest is very easy to do.
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He's already bought this along with everythng else for a service. I may have a quick look at it, but will convince him we don't beed to do it!

3. Seizing or sticking calipers is a common fault with all EP3 Type R's especially the rear ones as people over look them compared to fronts. You can get replacement pistons, seals and all for not a lot of money although I would spend a tiny bit more and just get replacement calipers. I think a front caliper is around £70 each with your old one in return from Euro car parts and rear around £60. Quite simple to swap around aswell if you know what you're doing.

Hope that helps, anything else, Just ask :)
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Well he called me to say his brakes were making a horrid noise last week. Had a look and he was down to the metal on the pad!! Stripped it down and had a look. Sliders seemed alright, the seals were still good and moving the sliders were nice and easy and feltlubed up so I left well alone. Free'd the piston up by winding it in and out a few times and it didn't seem bad after a few winds.

I changed the pads (new anti sequel plates wouldn't fit with the caliper, it wouldn't go over the pads at all even with the piston wound right in, so I just copper greased the rear touching point of the pads) and the discs (Disc locking screws were seized so I had to drill the heads off. Swines. He needs some new ones of those but I can't see a major use for them other than to hold them in place when you take the wheel off.

Is filling the gearbox easy enough? I haven't got a pump for it so i assume I'll have to make a Ribena bottle funnel or similar.

Thanks again for your comments. :)
 
I was at a Honda dealer at the weekend and they're are getting theirs in this weekend, most dealers are only getting one apparently so it'll have to come out of the show room for test drives

I should be a Civic owner again as of tonight, Corolla's been traded in against a 1.8 ES MY2010 - Looking forward to having dual zone climate control, auto wipers and lights again and the pan roof
 
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