Type R and VTEC owners

rjk said:
You still got yours Simon? What you in now if not?

I got lucky on the labour in fairness then. Around £650 all in which I didn't think was too horrendous. That was from TI Motorsport (part of tegiwa)

Really changed my opinion of them if I'm being honest, one of the best garages I have dealt with.
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I know I recommended them, but they really impressed me again, they did my BMW's M3 Inspection 2 service, I supplied oil and filter, but they still had to do valve clearances and other parts of the service. They also found an oil leak, luckily just rocker cover gasket and head was off to do valve clearances and my electric cooling fan had burnt out so they fitted a new one. Total bill was £366 which for the amount of work done was superb, also no idea if they did something but my brakes just feel so much sharper and better, or its just a case of the Golf having totally woeful brakes (worn out) that the M3 is such a big improvement, whereas the Mustang like the M3 also had fantastic brakes. But yeah the Ti Motorsport (tegiwa) guys need to given credit, as its due for the quality of work at very fair pricing.

Should pop down on Saturday for dyno day Rich, even if not running for a catch up. I shall be there around 9:30-10:00am
 
Headlight motor started making loud noises so unplugged it and masked up the plug.

Can someone point me in the direction of a replacement? 2005 EP3.
 
Had a tyre on my EP3 decide to give up on life yesterday evening, luckily a rear tyre whilst at low speed. Switching to the spare was fun in the dark, especially as I managed to spill engine oil all over everything in the boot :mad:
https://imgur.com/a/J58NA

I had Bridgestone Potenza re050a 205/45r17s all around so plan on sticking with this. Got two questions on this....

1) I know it's recommended to always swap tyres in pairs... Is there a point where it's ok to ignore this? With it being the rear I'm wondering whether I've got any wiggle room... From googling around the new tyres would be around 8mm tread depth, I don't think the ones on the car are a huge way off that... If I just have to stick with buying a pair so be it, just annoying!
2) Are the RE050As run flats? I've seen some things saying they are and others not. But no clear signs of 2 versions of them?
 
That's a PITA!

Measure the other tyre and see what the depth is across the whole width.

I'd personally change the pair as you'd hopefully get 2 with a manufacturing date close together and be sure they are the same tread depth.

Or just change the one and be done with it, you'll unlikely see any issues (unless the other one blows up).
 
In the end I just went and ordered a pair yesterday afternoon as I need a properly usable car at the weekend. Don't fancy deliberately driving down a motorway with a loaded car on a skinny little space saver... £230 I didn't want to have to spend this month, but oh well - **** happens!

The tread on the old tyre is around 4-5mm so I'll ask to keep it but put a fresh set on the back. That way if I'm unlucky and another tyre goes in the future I could use this part worn tyre, alternatively I can put it on ebay or something... Looks like others are selling them for £40+
 
jaffveyda said:
My light for engine oil blinked this morning, does anyone have any idea what oil should i get for Honda accord 2004 2.0 petrol vtech?
I don't know where my manual is after house move.
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http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/22697-confused-about-oil-spec/

0-20 is apparently being recommended a couple of threads I've found. Otherwise 5-30 is within spec. You'll find dealers will put anything from a range of grades in regardless of the manual, and what Simon says is pretty much bang on. Running on low is not a good idea, any oil will be better than none. You'll need a litre of it at least too (that's usually the gap between low and max on most cars, certainly Hondas).
 
Got caught in the my first traffic jam with my 56 Civic ES (1.8).

It was OK for the first 30 minutes or so. After a bit of crawling we came to a standstill. After a while it became apparent that we weren't going anyway (accident caused road closure on the A14 last night), I noticed the temp. was creeping up (normally sits happily at 1 quarter even in traffic) so switched the engine off as others had done.

Problem came when traffic started to move, and I didn't. The car just didn't want to start, turning over OK and on the press of the button sounded like it was going to come to life. Luckily I was next to the end of a lay-by at the time so managed to push it in to let it cool down. The temp. gauge was at about 3/4's at this point (don't know what temp. that equates to, sorry). Let it go back down to just under half and after a bit of coaxing with the accelerator and clutch in first it came back to life. Shouldn't have pumped the accelerator I know but I was desperate.

As you can imagine I didn't want to switch the engine off again after this, however after a bit of start stop it was nearing red so I had to. Again managed to cool to about half before traffic started moving, again didn't want to start. Luckily it did after some goading.

I was pretty much at the red-line when I got off and managed to get some air flowing over the radiator, got it back down to the usual temp by the time I got home, started again fine at that temp.

Is this a known issue with petrol Civics?

There was also a weird gurgling/ suction noise emanating from the rear of the car, sounded like the petrol tank area, although I had 3/4 of a tank.

Going to check both the radiator fans are working.

Side note, checking the coolant is a pig in these!!! I've tried to, however couldn't get my torch near enough to see. Going to have to try and fashion some kind of dip stick.
 
Mines never had temp issues in 4.5 years and many miles (1.8 Type-S).

The fans on these are silly loud, can you hear it kick in when the climate control is off (air con fan also silly loud).

Petrol tank is under the front seats so that suction noise really cannot have come from that area, unless maybe your petrol cap isn't on properly.

I suspect there's a small leak somewhere given the sound you're hearing. Let the car cool and just use the radiator cap at the front to check the level. It should be right to the top. Possible issues could be water pump, thermostat or a leak.
 
Dup said:
Mines never had temp issues in 4.5 years and many miles (1.8 Type-S).

The fans on these are silly loud, can you hear it kick in when the climate control is off (air con fan also silly loud).

Petrol tank is under the front seats so that suction noise really cannot have come from that area, unless maybe your petrol cap isn't on properly.

I suspect there's a small leak somewhere given the sound you're hearing. Let the car cool and just use the radiator cap at the front to check the level. It should be right to the top. Possible issues could be water pump, thermostat or a leak.
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Yep the fans were definitely running, as you say they're silly loud. You can feel the car vibrate physically a lot more when they're on.

Didn't realise that, thanks for the info. Cap seems to be on fine, I should also mention the noise went away when it cooled..

Thanks for the tip, I'll have a look this afternoon when it's cooled from this morning.

Currently living in abject terror of getting caught in a jam now.

With regards to possible issues, do you mean with the temp. creeping up or not starting when hot? I assume the former just want to check.
 
TacticalFish said:
Yep the fans were definitely running, as you say they're silly loud. You can feel the car vibrate physically a lot more when they're on.

Didn't realise that, thanks for the info. Cap seems to be on fine, I should also mention the noise went away when it cooled..

Thanks for the tip, I'll have a look this afternoon when it's cooled from this morning.

Currently living in abject terror of getting caught in a jam now.

With regards to possible issues, do you mean with the temp. creeping up or not starting when hot? I assume the former just want to check.
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I highly suspect the starting issue was the ECU preventing it becasue the temp was too high. For safety reasons I wouldn't expect this to happen if the car is already running. That's a guess though.

The obvious symptom is the temperature, so that list are the main culprits. The only other thing could head gasket failure. You'd really hope that's not the case, especially with the R18 engine. You'd have to be really unlucky for that to be the case.

You can obviously top up the coolant with water to get it home or a garage to get it looked at, but the temps are dropping so I wouldn't do that lightly as that freezing could cause more issues.
 
Dup said:
I highly suspect the starting issue was the ECU preventing it becasue the temp was too high. For safety reasons I wouldn't expect this to happen if the car is already running. That's a guess though.

The obvious symptom is the temperature, so that list are the main culprits. The only other thing could head gasket failure. You'd really hope that's not the case, especially with the R18 engine. You'd have to be really unlucky for that to be the case.

You can obviously top up the coolant with water to get it home or a garage to get it looked at, but the temps are dropping so I wouldn't do that lightly as that freezing could cause more issues.
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Good point, that would make sense. I did manage to start it again at about 1/2 temp. so it could be bamboozled in some way to start. I did wonder if high pressure somewhere could be a cause as well. But yeah, I'd be devastated if it was HGF. Main reason I bought the Honda was reliability.

I would've thought the coolant is low, as when I managed to get air in the coolant system of an old Rover, the sound it made was very similar.

However, just took the radiator cap off and could touch coolant with my pinky. However the liquid was clear and didn't smell of anything. I might pipette some out to get a better look...
 
Dup said:
http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/22697-confused-about-oil-spec/

0-20 is apparently being recommended a couple of threads I've found. Otherwise 5-30 is within spec. You'll find dealers will put anything from a range of grades in regardless of the manual, and what Simon says is pretty much bang on. Running on low is not a good idea, any oil will be better than none. You'll need a litre of it at least too (that's usually the gap between low and max on most cars, certainly Hondas).
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yeah i got the 5-30 but like an idiot I chucked 5l in one go. Never top up before. I had to go to garage to suck it out.
 
TacticalFish said:
Is this a known issue with petrol Civics?
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I have the same model Civic and engine as you but thats not the reason for my post. A previous 1.8 VTI Civic I owned many moons ago had very similar symptoms, if you get caught in that situation again put the fans on as hot and as fast as they will go to help get some of the heat away. It turned out to be the thermostat on mine, it was stuck shut/open cant remember which, once replaced it was fine. Can also be caused by a blockage of gunk.

I'm sure it'll be fine, never heard of head gasket failure on a petrol Civic, at least not a standard one and I've owned a lot of Civics and known a lot of people who have owned them too through forums and owners clubs etc
 
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