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How much of a difference is there between the MPS4 and MPS4S?
How much of a difference is there between the MPS4 and MPS4S?
Michelin recommend you do not change the tyres at 3mm. They recommend that you run them down to 1.6mm before changing them, and that modern tyre technology allows them to work as intended right until the end of their life. Michelin say that the 3mm "recommended" tread depth only ever occurred because manufacturers perpetuated this myth because it's profitable. A tyre with 1.6mm will feel better, handle better, have better dry performance, have better wet performance, will use less fuel and generate less noise.
Aquaplaning resistance (which is *not* the same as wet weather performance) is the only area where the drops are more noticeable.
I would replace them at 2mm. However if yours are wearing on the shoulders you need to get your alignment done or you'll be through to the cords before the main tread of the tyre is worn
A tyre with more tread only becomes relevant when it's driving through sufficiently deep water that the tyre can't clear the water quick enough because of the speed the car is doing - ie. you're driving through a big puddle at speed, or the entire road is flooded and you want to drive quicker. Aside from this - having tread on your tyres is a burden to performance, longevity, efficiency etc.
Whilst the tread depth will be a big factor (probably the biggest) in aquaplaning resistance this must be considered against the fact that it only happens very rarely that you go through very deep puddles at high speeds. That's not to say that you should drive around on slicks, because you still need to prevent against aquaplaning, but the tyre is going to spend infinitely more time driving around dry and wet roads than it will crashing through deep puddles. Also, contrary to what you're saying, the vast majority of people who crash on wet roads do so as a result of losing grip in the wet, not because they have aquaplaned from hitting a big puddle. Tyre technology now allows higher levels of grip in these everyday conditions. It is for this reason why two major studies have found there is no correlation between tyre tread depth and the number of accidents - and its probably going to be because of what i've just said - the scenario of hitting a body of water at sufficiently high speeds to completely lose control is a comparatively rare one. The 1.6mm that most countries have come up with as being the minimum safe depth have done so as a result of the testing, accident data and input from experts.
The whole thing is a balance, which nearly every country has agreed on 1.6mm being the limit. Sure you could replace your tyres at 3mm and be able to hit deep puddles quickly without aquaplaning, in the same way you could replace them at 5mm and be able to hit even deeper puddles at even quicker speeds.
Michelin have come up with well reasoned arguments about why we should use our tyres down to 1.6mm, backed up with science and evidence. The other tyre companies seem to show over simplified posters, that are suspiciously similar to the ones where they compare "Winter tyres vs Summer tyres", and claims like "below 3mm the performance drops off" which is a great soundbite, but has no substance.
Michelin recommend you do not change the tyres at 3mm. They recommend that you run them down to 1.6mm before changing them, and that modern tyre technology allows them to work as intended right until the end of their life. Michelin say that the 3mm "recommended" tread depth only ever occurred because manufacturers perpetuated this myth because it's profitable. A tyre with 1.6mm will feel better, handle better, have better dry performance, have better wet performance, will use less fuel and generate less noise.
Aquaplaning resistance (which is *not* the same as wet weather performance) is the only area where the drops are more noticeable.
I would replace them at 2mm. However if yours are wearing on the shoulders you need to get your alignment done or you'll be through to the cords before the main tread of the tyre is worn
I've heard good things about the Toyo R888 and the Federal 595RSR, might be worth giving them a look too?
e; Never mind, the AD08R is probably better than both of those anyway. I thought you were looking for alternatives.
@Frozennova runs them on his car and speaks highly of them. Not sure if anyone here has the PS Cup 2's.
What are people's thoughts on Yokohama V105's?
I can get them much cheaper than Eagle F1's etc and they seem generally well reviewed...
Road legal track tyres, talk to me.
I'm currently running Nankang NS2R on my Clio 200 Cup and while it's an exceptional track tyre for the price I've found that I felt them starting to 'go off' after about 6 laps on my last track day despite keeping an eye on the pressures all day, also they are a nightmare to balance which is to be expected from a brand like this, when they fronts are dead which'll be soon I plan to replace all 4.
I'm currently torn between the Yokohama AD08R and the Michelin PS Cup 2. Yoko is £350 a set and the Michelin is £500. (215 45 17).
I had the AD08R on my old Fiesta ST and found it very good but just wondering if the Michelin is worth the increase in price? If anyone's had experience with this tyre especially on track please let me know
Gaygle,
Have a read of this. Not sure if you have to be registered on LinkedIn though.
There are substantial increases in dry braking distance let alone wet.
My rear CSC6s are on 3 or 4mm at the moment, have not noticed their wet grip get any weaker though. Been driving a bit harder just to get them worn down faster so I can replace them with PS 4S! The CSC6 has been far more composed in the wet than the PSS were. Just a shame they wear really quick.