What did you do to your bike today?

IC3 said:
I was riding behind a R35 in grey gun metal today, that thing is a beast. So much torque, although is it normal that it was leaving massive piles of black smoke behind?
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Yeah they look like diesels with the catalysts removed.

I had a full 4" system on mine and it was pretty embarrassing when you floor it and leave a black smoke cloud behind you.
 
Basically, re-decaled bike, checked fluids then realised because I've got new Delvovic downpipes that this has now thrown the carbs out of balance and got a horrible flat spot between 6900-7100 where I spend a lot of time and will be in Spain which I go to 5:30pm Monday evening. So, Monday morning, going to call a place in Ellesmere Port and beg them to sort... praying theyve got a couple of hours free... but not hopeful tbh!
 
Went from Southampton to Salisbury to Yeovil and back yesterday. Great ride and was awesome weather for it.

Decided that I want to change the plugs on the SV and starting to see how it's going to spiral out of control.

The change the plugs I've got to take front fairing off, bleed coolant and disconnect rad hoses and push rad forward to access first plug.

2nd plug needs me to take off the tank, air filter and front seat to access it.

At this point I'm thinking I might as well do the air filter....and at that point I might as well do the oil and filter to make it a service.

Then I realize that some of the fairing hex bolts are rounded off as some fool as over tightened them. I recon I can get them out with torque bits but just have to find replacements now.

I've got a tool kit coming for the bike so I have a spark plug removal tool. Now I just need a torque wrench and some feeler gauges .
 
You sure about all that?

"Rear plug: Remove*seat, unbolt front of gas tank, tip tank upwards (make sure not to have it full of gas or it will leak out the top) and use a rod (one comes in the tool kit) to hold it up. The rear cylinder is right at the base of the tank. Pull the wire + plug out of the top of it, remove the spark plug with a spark plug socket on an extension. I believe there is a spark plug tool in the toolkit as well.

Front spark plug: Remove any necessary bodywork if a S model, unbolt the 3 bolts holding the radiator in place. Push radiator forward, there is the top of the front cylinder. Remove the plug and wire and then remove the spark plug with a spark plug socket. The factory tool does a good job of getting in there, as it is a tight space with the radiator there.

To install new plugs: put a dab of anti-seize on the threads, turn plug in by hand, once it is tight by hand, tighten with a wrench another 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Make sure it is snug but not overly tight, as you can strip the threads.

When putting the plug back on the front spark plug, put some dielectric grease in the plug boot, will help protect against water"
 
Took a ride over to Northfield this morning, booked 6 tattoo sessions, filled the tank which cost me £6 and had a nice ride back in the lovely sunshine! :)

Need to put some grease on the chain as it feels quite dry, also need to get the jetwash out and give it a quick blast! :)
 
Tefal said:
You sure about all that?

"Rear plug: Remove*seat, unbolt front of gas tank, tip tank upwards (make sure not to have it full of gas or it will leak out the top) and use a rod (one comes in the tool kit) to hold it up. The rear cylinder is right at the base of the tank. Pull the wire + plug out of the top of it, remove the spark plug with a spark plug socket on an extension. I believe there is a spark plug tool in the toolkit as well.

Front spark plug: Remove any necessary bodywork if a S model, unbolt the 3 bolts holding the radiator in place. Push radiator forward, there is the top of the front cylinder. Remove the plug and wire and then remove the spark plug with a spark plug socket. The factory tool does a good job of getting in there, as it is a tight space with the radiator there.

To install new plugs: put a dab of anti-seize on the threads, turn plug in by hand, once it is tight by hand, tighten with a wrench another 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Make sure it is snug but not overly tight, as you can strip the threads.

When putting the plug back on the front spark plug, put some dielectric grease in the plug boot, will help protect against water"
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So apart from the total removal of the tank its pretty similar. The guide I read must be going a bit further so you have more space to work with.

I've posted in the SV forums to get some info on the fairing bolts as I dont want to buy a whole set of 2nd hand ones, just a few new ones
 
if you can get a fairing bolt out take it to local bike shop,they should have a few,

you usually have to take the tank off on all big bikes,just remember to turn the fuel tap to off position first if you have one and pull off the fuel hose/lift tank away

you can also wash out your air filter in a petrol bath and re oil it
 
fair enough I'll try a few and see what they say. Closest Suzuki dealer is on the Isle of Wight though....

Looks like a leisurely ride to Ringwood it is!
 
Today I hit a kerb with my back wheel as I lost traction on sand during breaking... I saved it, but nearly ***** myself...

Any recommendations on headphones? They can be bluetooth but can't be big as my helmet ear space is very limited... 1 thing for sure, they need to stay in my ears. My current in-earphones come out as soon as I put my helmet on...

BTW is Muc-Off chainwax better than WD40? The guy over at halfords said that their muc-off stuff gets sold more often...
 
MowyTone said:
So apart from the total removal of the tank its pretty similar. The guide I read must be going a bit further so you have more space to work with.

I've posted in the SV forums to get some info on the fairing bolts as I dont want to buy a whole set of 2nd hand ones, just a few new ones
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And not having to completely dismantle your cooling system lol. Just hang the radiator down.

Probolt?
 
IC3 said:
Today I hit a kerb with my back wheel as I lost traction on sand during breaking... I saved it, but nearly ***** myself...

Any recommendations on headphones? They can be bluetooth but can't be big as my helmet ear space is very limited... 1 thing for sure, they need to stay in my ears. My current in-earphones come out as soon as I put my helmet on...

BTW is Muc-Off chainwax better than WD40? The guy over at halfords said that their muc-off stuff gets sold more often...
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Best I've found are the cheapest in ear ones you can find that are "flat" ie no ear bud that gets stuck inside the just sit inside your ears.

The cheap ones tend to be the flat style rather than the rubber bud.

They will break they will wear out after a year or so of flapping about around your shoulder a when you decide to just ride with one etc.

But at something like 3 quid a pop it's not an issue lol.


When putting your helmet on pull the straps as far apart as possible to compress the padding so they don't get tolled out

I think the pair I used most were some cheap jvc ones
 
I made some of these. They are the best i've used for music while riding.

16vQLCz.jpg

The custom moulded plugs fit your ear perfectly and cut out noise meaning you dont have to have the music mega loud to hear it.
I just used a cheap set of skull candy bud ear phones with the rubber part removed.


Also cleaned my bike as its going up for sale. Message me if you're interested :)

4KAlKtG.jpg
 
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