What have you done to your car today?

pepsilol said:
Eugh, cant think of anything worse than doing pads and discs all round on your knees with no air tools.

Anyway, did the oil filler neck today, fiddly job involving removing the alternator and TB then working slightly blind.
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I can, just about any other job on a car :confused:

Not sure on the merit of air tools for a brake job either, not like you could get anything in behind the brake anyway.
 
pepsilol said:
Eugh, cant think of anything worse than doing pads and discs all round on your knees with no air tools.
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What? It's an easy-peasy job :confused: bit fiddly jacking each corner/end up perhaps but you'd have to when doing most jobs, and it's no big deal if you don't try to rush.

Garages always seem to charge such extortionate amounts to change discs/pads especially considering they have lifts and it probably takes them 10-15 minutes per corner. Ford wanted £245 I think to do just the front discs/pads on my car. I lol'd and bought front and rear discs and pads for around £120 and did them myself in a couple of hours.
 
pepsilol said:
Eugh, cant think of anything worse than doing pads and discs all round on your knees with no air tools.
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Good luck getting an air tool round the back to remove 16mm nuts and 7mm Hex bolts...

I also personally hate air tools being used on my wheel nuts too, and ask when at a garage they use a torque wrench only. Found a very good garage who have that as a policy now anyway...
 
impact gun can be useful to get the carrier bolts out (provided there is space) as a lot of people like to he-man those bolts on where really they only need c.120nm in most cases
 
rossk26 said:
Good luck getting an air tool round the back to remove 16mm nuts and 7mm Hex bolts...
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My calipers have a system where you need to hold the slider steady with one spanner whilst removing the bolt from the back of it, an air tool here would end in disaster! And don't think they'd be room to get the carrier bolts off either, but would be nice for getting the wheels off quick!
 
Clarkey said:
I can, just about any other job on a car :confused:

Not sure on the merit of air tools for a brake job either, not like you could get anything in behind the brake anyway.
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Air ratchets :confused:

Even juts doing the lugs off with an Air Ratchet is a god send. Wheel off within 20 seconds.
 
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My point is the whole crawling around on your kees jacking up etc.

I'd do it aswell to save a bunch of cash. Still doesn't get past the point how horrifically mundane it is.
 
pepsilol said:
Air ratchets :confused:

Even juts doing the lugs off with an Air Ratchet is a god send. Wheel off within 20 seconds.
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- Breaker bar with 3 inch straight extension so you don't bang your hand. Crack all 4/5 nuts.
- Take off the breaker bar and just your extension piece to wizz off the nuts with your hands.

That's around a minute per wheel when you get round to it.

No need for air tools, especially as you're not exactly taking off/putting your wheels on all the ruddy time.


Also, I'm not a fan of jacking up the corner and working on that, it's just not safe enough (plus more hassle than rear jacking). Jack up the rear of the car, put 2 axle stands on the side jacking points, then lower the car until the weight is on the axle stands, with the rear jack just biting (as the backup). You can then work on both rear wheels/arches at the same time.
 
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pepsilol said:
My point is the whole crawling around on your kees jacking up etc.

I'd do it aswell to save a bunch of cash. Still doesn't get past the point how horrifically mundane it is.
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Im flushing the brake fluid on the Golf soon, but the brakes have not been changed for two years, so im going to pull the callipers off, clean out the gunk, open the nipple and push the piston back in and bleed, which is going to take ages on all four corners
 
-Ad- said:
Also, I'm not a fan of jacking up the corner and working on that, it's just not safe enough (plus more hassle than rear jacking). Jack up the rear of the car, put 2 axle stands on the side jacking points, then lower the car until the weight is on the axle stands, with the rear jack just biting (as the backup). You can then work on both rear wheels/arches at the same time.
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Either I'm misreading or you have insisted it's safer to work on a car jacked up on 2 wheels, than it is to work on a car jacked up on 3 wheels? :confused:
 
Last weekend

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$WAG
 
-Ad- said:
Also, I'm not a fan of jacking up the corner and working on that, it's just not safe enough (plus more hassle than rear jacking). Jack up the rear of the car, put 2 axle stands on the side jacking points, then lower the car until the weight is on the axle stands, with the rear jack just biting (as the backup). You can then work on both rear wheels/arches at the same time.
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Fine if your car has a central rear jacking point. I just jack each corner up individually and put a stand under though.

I wouldn't leave the car sitting on just the hydraulic jack for more than a couple of minutes, it's not worth it if it fails. Even if you're not under it (or just poking around or sitting on the ground with your legs under the car like I do) when it fails, it's still a ball ache.
 
-Ad- said:
- Breaker bar with 3 inch straight extension so you don't bang your hand. Crack all 4/5 nuts.
- Take off the breaker bar and just your extension piece to wizz off the nuts with your hands.

That's around a minute per wheel when you get round to it.

No need for air tools, especially as you're not exactly taking off/putting your wheels on all the ruddy time.

.
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Hahaha, oh come on matey. I loved the "wizz" bit.

I used to do that sort of stuff before I got a ramp. I know exactly what the differences are and it's just far too night and day to be able to justify it being wizzy working on the floor.
 
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