What have you done to your car today?

Volvo got fresh oil and filters. Mk1 MR2 got new tyres a leak check and a wash ready for the start of the season next week. Mk3 MR2 and GT86 got washed ready for a meet tomorrow. Hilux got neglected, might spend some time on it on Monday.
 
Not sure whether to go for a standard remap (likely the Polestar tune) for £250 or spend more for a custom remap. No performance mods except custom intake bodge.
 
bigmike20vt said:
snapped the plastic trim "grab handle" off the boot off my nissan QQ... :( its a common fault on my model of car - 2012 old shape.

its an awful design and completely forseeable.

so my next man job
www.youtube.com

Nissan Qashqai tailgate boot lid repair

This is the Ebay link for this kithttps://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F233174472923This video is a step by step...
www.youtube.com www.youtube.com
Click to expand...
all fixed and whilst i do not intend to test it by yanking it, the boot grab handle bit now feels more secure than it ever has done.

total cost of £22 much better than paying a garage to do it (new part as well as spraying to body match)
 
Installed some free* Team Heko wind deflectors to the Jaag

1683175572.jpg


*Evri went AWOL but they turned up after I had a refund.
 
Phemo said:
My 3 Series has the Hifi sound system which is nothing special but is ok. Eventually I will consider buying a replacement amp for the OEM one but not just yet. I read some posts that say that there is a space by the front centre speaker to mount a tweeter - the Harman Kardon system has a tweeter fitted here but Hifi does not - and fitting a tweeter does actually make a good difference to the sound. The car already has front left and right tweeters so I wasn't sure how much difference a 3rd at the front would make, but I thought it was a cheap thing to try.

The speaker has the connector for a tweeter already so it is literally a plug and play thing and takes only a couple of minutes. Didn't take a before pic but here is what it's like as stock:



£14 and 5 minutes later:



Most awkward bit is getting the screws in at the back where it's so close to the windscreen.

I'm actually pleasantly surprised. Cheap as chips and there is definitely a noticeable difference. I like it. I know some people actually disconnect the centre speaker because it messes up stereo separation, but it's in a car which is hardly an ideal environment for audio anyway. In all honesty I'd barely noticed the centre speaker having any effect on anything at all before adding the tweeter.
Click to expand...

I recently bought an amp/DSP upgrade for my 135i, which was completely plug and play for the HiFi system.


I'm fairly local to you, and more than happy to give you a demo, as it completely transformed the system for me.


Looks like you have already changed the stock speakers?
 
Today I got annoyed with Honda. There are two difference clutch slave cylinders for a 2008 Honda CR-V 2.0i 4x4. Both have the same part number. I ordered the wrong one.
 
Got round to fitting the front brake stuff that I bought a week or so ago for the 640D.

y4m7g6R-g_ZCEypZP7pEBZAkO-pQsN425qodDsvtHG4J1xzC1jfEe50z4AxunuA8dnjk0Y1E54UJCHKuzTZrSAQkQP5i0gEF1T3jqqKVXNJ_x_SCkcfI571KLWOGsNFxfsYiE1a30c3edS1DUetrh1EN1UvIs4rowA4pUKJKk6KMyk


I could have predicted it, the little screw that holds on the brake disc had rounded and needed a more forceful extraction.

y4momPEQfU3PymJb0hkq7L34P-3mpGob2Ely21pdOlcwMinzqTN6Y0wFEn50t1gSv0oA_u3rRL1XWpCDfgdSdP-U3xUZ3T1Ax3bfY7HfndWxyZQTDQfDK6Y8Gy3zm21rKURbTFGLmoERWp_wPeIkx_D0yoSLCA4ck-0yUmytV0itAQ


Fitted the new disc shields as the previous ones were so badly corroded they rattled and so were removed.

y4mfYkJG52Dr9LrQ7IddRqoRDBfZ4eZz5AefBk1t7vagCCzvjFXJdKkGXLcj9iO513F9fzFulYOV-b2iDz6tjCDitKAh2y_aO7Y1VcTmsTMlivFsUsHvK8rMUB-WHDB46-AJsgP-JqkQpF8GIspqe0jONySmfU-V8pUSxfW4E3S7DQ


Now just have the rear discs and pads to do now.
 
Rilot said:
Today I got annoyed with Honda. There are two difference clutch slave cylinders for a 2008 Honda CR-V 2.0i 4x4. Both have the same part number. I ordered the wrong one.
Click to expand...

Constant problem I have when needing parts for plant. Even worse is some completely different parts have the same part number.

Ordered a pressure sensor a month ago, a windscreen wiper arm turned up last week.
 
First warm day of the year yesterday so, of course, my aircon decides not to blow cold air any more :/
Getting serviced and MOT'd next Friday so I'm praying it just needs a re-gas.
 
Currently in Manthey Motorsport having the wheels rebalanced having throw all the weights off due to massive heat transfer to the wheels. Will be back out shortly. Some epic cars here today as well as fellow member Nigel in his Golf.
 
Housey said:
Currently in Manthey Motorsport having the wheels rebalanced having throw all the weights off due to massive heat transfer to the wheels. Will be back out shortly. Some epic cars here today as well as fellow member Nigel in his Golf.
Click to expand...
Enjoy! Also - pics!
 
Great. So I need a new front wheel too as the current nearside one is buckled and I know exactly how. Rock on the road some weeks back. Thought I’d got away with it, seems not. Manthey superb, walked me in, showed me. All others fine. Odd as I’ve had zero obvious wobble or vibration.
 
  • Sad
Reactions: mjt
Mysterae_ said:
I could have predicted it, the little screw that holds on the brake disc had rounded and needed a more forceful extraction.
Click to expand...
interesting/disappointing - I had anticipated having to use, maybe purchase, a manual impact driver to do those, or,
buy a better quality facom allen driver rather than L shape keys
 
Best way to remove those is use an allen socket and whack the end with a hammer (which will crack off any rust in the thread) then undo with a ratchet or battery gun.
L shaped keys are only good for building stuffs from IKEA.
 
jpaul said:
interesting/disappointing - I had anticipated having to use, maybe purchase, a manual impact driver to do those, or,
buy a better quality facom allen driver rather than L shape keys
Click to expand...

JonRGV250 said:
Best way to remove those is use an allen socket and whack the end with a hammer (which will crack off any rust in the thread) then undo with a ratchet or battery gun.
L shaped keys are only good for building stuffs from IKEA.
Click to expand...

I did use a hex head socket but not with my impact driver, I guess the screw was just too badly corroded to make purchase. The other side was fine though, go figure! What was a pain was the Febi Bilstien discs that I bought didn't come with the replacement screw :mad:.
 
Driver side brake caliper leak :(
Front discs due to be replaced now :(
Front pads on their way :(

Ordered a pair of new calipers (Ate OE) in black on Autodoc :)
Ordered Mtec black edition coated discs :)
Ordered new PFC Z Rated pads :)
Tin of Typ 200 fluid to wash it down with :)

The day that Z Rated pads are no longer available will be a sad sad day indeed.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom