Caporegime
Ooh you might create some controversy with that one!
From what I hear it is effective though.
From what I hear it is effective though.
I got a set when I left my previous job as I worked with another biker and had a Jap bike at the time, I was so happyAnd in what sounds like the saddest thing ever, mate got me some JIS screwdrivers as a secret santa for Christmas. Chuffed to bits, no longer will I round off screws.
apparently its a tried and tested method for decades now. decided to give it a go myself rather than pay someone else a fair chunk to do it. was very easy after watching some youtube vids.Ooh you might create some controversy with that one!
From what I hear it is effective though.
Wideband in the Starlet is being silly, keeps reading lean/air all the time but I don't think it is actually running lean. Gonna whip the plugs out one lunchtime and have a look at them. Hope it isn't actually running lean, I've already melted a valve once due to clogged injector a few years ago
And in what sounds like the saddest thing ever, mate got me some JIS screwdrivers as a secret santa for Christmas. Chuffed to bits, no longer will I round off screws.
That’s 100% a failed sensor, you’ll probably find for a fraction of a second here and there it’ll read normally.
With the exception of some very very expensive stuff, nobody makes wideband controllers that control the heater they way it should be. Which ultimately leads to them having a crap lifespan
That sounds exactly like what it's doing. On startup it'll be normal then increasingly go full rich then full lean.
I wouldn't mind but I've barely used the bloody thing since it was installed!
My kit is a PLX one, I had heard good stuff about it.
All the symptoms of a dead sensor. It's a bit of a multipart issue between, the way the controllers work and how they're installed.
When Bosch introduced the LSU4.9 to replace the LSU4.2 they drastically reduced the mass of the ceramic sensing element. Then between where the sensor is fitted in the exhaust (Angle, distance from the exhaust port etc) condensation forms inside the exhaust and collects inside the sensor. Most wideband controllers then hit the heater with far much initial duty which boils the condensation and cracks the ceramic element.
The simplest solution is to power the Wideband controller with a relay with an On delay to allow the EGTs to come up enough and to dry the sensor out before trying to heat the sensor
12V, 10A Adjustable Delay Timer Relay (Delay ON or OFF)
Durite 12V adjustable delay timer relay configurable for delay ON or delay OFF. User-settable delay of between 0.5 sec & 6 hrs. Rated to 10A.www.12voltplanet.co.uk
ECU remap on my Audi A1 S Line. The throttle response and acceleration is night and day difference to before. Getting the read windows tinted, lowered (on factory springs that make it sit too high imo) and upgraded exhaust system. Plan to keep it another few years before I get that V6/V8 I've always wanted.
Attempted and failed to remove the washer pump filter. My windscreen washer is barely reaching the windscreen. If you leave it for a few seconds, then try again, it is at full pressure for like 1 second, then it drops instantly.
Had a look around various Youtube videos and found plenty of videos showing the Mini hatch and Mini Countryman and they were all pointing the issue to be the filter getting clogged. Looks relatively easy enough. Remove the wheel, remove half of the wheel lining, and you will have access to the tank/pump. Remove the pump, then remove the rubber filter that remains. Clean it out, flush the tank and job's done, right? Nope! The Clubman seems to be the exception when it comes to the washer tank position. Rather than it being in front of the wheel, it's behind the front wheel. And there is no room to take it out. I think the only way to do this would be to remove the entire side panel. It was starting to get dark, and I don't want this to turn into a can of worms, so off to the dealers.
I thought it was weird that I couldn't find any how to's for the Clubman on this, but maybe that's why, no one has bothered due to the hassle.
Try boiling a full kettle with some lemon juice in it, pouring it straight into the reservoir, then running the washers. I did this with our car when the washer fluid got a bit gummed up and it seemed to help flush things through a bit.Attempted and failed to remove the washer pump filter. My windscreen washer is barely reaching the windscreen. If you leave it for a few seconds, then try again, it is at full pressure for like 1 second, then it drops instantly.
Had a look around various Youtube videos and found plenty of videos showing the Mini hatch and Mini Countryman and they were all pointing the issue to be the filter getting clogged. Looks relatively easy enough. Remove the wheel, remove half of the wheel lining, and you will have access to the tank/pump. Remove the pump, then remove the rubber filter that remains. Clean it out, flush the tank and job's done, right? Nope! The Clubman seems to be the exception when it comes to the washer tank position. Rather than it being in front of the wheel, it's behind the front wheel. And there is no room to take it out. I think the only way to do this would be to remove the entire side panel. It was starting to get dark, and I don't want this to turn into a can of worms, so off to the dealers.
I thought it was weird that I couldn't find any how to's for the Clubman on this, but maybe that's why, no one has bothered due to the hassle.
Cheers, I'll give it a try. Nothing to lose at this point!Try boiling a full kettle with some lemon juice in it, pouring it straight into the reservoir, then running the washers. I did this with our car when the washer fluid got a bit gummed up and it seemed to help flush things through a bit.
Try boiling a full kettle with some lemon juice in it, pouring it straight into the reservoir, then running the washers. I did this with our car when the washer fluid got a bit gummed up and it seemed to help flush things through a bit.