What have you done to your car today?

taking wheels off, removing wheel liner with approx 25 screws, then still a major fiddle.

This is something that annoys me immensely - it should not be difficult to change bulbs... I remember awhile back trying to change someone's headlights (without going through the arch liner) and it was something like 18 screws...
 
This is something that annoys me immensely - it should not be difficult to change bulbs... I remember awhile back trying to change someone's headlights (without going through the arch liner) and it was something like 18 screws...
Strong agree, seems like it is designed to maximise workshop billing time
 
Filled up the washer fluid. It’s the first car I’ve owned with a washer bottle larger than 5 litres. The warning came on and I was close to a garage so I nipped in straight away, bought a 5 litre bottle and just managed to get it all in.

So now I know that the warning comes on when there’s about 1l left because the capacity is 6l.
 
Picked up this 2018 Giulia Quadrifoglio in March this year but the body work was horrendous - numerous scratches, bird poo etching and the exterior carbon fibre had seen better days. After about nearly 2 months in the body shop, have received the car now with a a full respray, exteriors carbon refurbished (front splitter, rear diffuser, spoiler), alloys returned and resprayed in the stock technico black (maybe should have gone for a bronze colour). Couldn't be happier. When I have some time I will give it a quick paint correction and ceramic coating.





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Apologies for the petrol station pictures.
 
Used the power of MS Paint to try and figure out how to wire in a horn, foglight, reverse light, 12v socket with on/off switch, volt meter to replace the ammeter, temperature gauge, and rev counter (just for fun!) into the Austin...

Wiring fries my brain quite honestly, but I think this should be safe and fairly logical.

Everything is switched live and utilises relays with feeds direct from the battery.

The original fuse box has two glass fuses, one 35A for the rear lights, indicators, wipers and heater, and one 50A for the horn and interior light (weird but thats how they were...), and no relays other than the flasher box.

The main lighting circuit isn't fused (I guess bulbs would act as fuses if something goes wrong)

I'm replacing it with a 6 fuse box with two spare fuses. Two as per the original fuses but lower amp rated because a 50 amp fuse for the horn is mental, an additional fuse for the front and rear auxiliary lamps, and an additional fuse for the gauges, interior light, and 12v socket.

I could use one of the spare fuses for the main lighting circuit, but I will just leave it as is.

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Today's project. Had a headlight go. But very little space to do from top. Skoda garage manUal and process means taking wheels off, removing wheel liner with approx 25 screws, then still a major fiddle. Bothe sides done for a pair and winter wheels on also.

Bit late now, but it’s easier/quicker just to remove a few from the front, then use a bungee cord to pull then hold the liner out of the way rather than removing the whole thing.
 
So the horn won't work with the ignition/key off?

Correct. :)

Even with new cars, whether or not the horn works with the ignition off seems to be manufacturer dependant. Just one of those things.

With the original wiring I think it would have worked with the ignition off.

The horn on my E30 doesn't work with the ignition off. Which is just as well because it has three horn buttons and they are fun to press. :p

Here is the original wiring if you're interested! A lot of it is a bit weird by modern standards.

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Bit late now, but it’s easier/quicker just to remove a few from the front, then use a bungee cord to pull then hold the liner out of the way rather than removing the whole thing.
Thanks, did try that. I stuck a kids Welly in there to hold the gap, but the wheel lined was not as flexible as I had hoped. With it off fully I could then get my heed in there. The wee clips were a so and so also.
 
Took advantage of the Billetworkz Black Friday sale and treated myself to a nice knob (hurrr).
Weighted shift knobs are quite popular for helping smooth the gearshift a little, but previous experience has taught me that too heavy can make it feel cumbersome. So I went for their titanium short tear-drop shape, roughly the same size as OEM but about 60g heavier (OEM is ~200g) - enough to make that slot into gear feel nicer, but not so much mass/inertia added that it feels much different to manipulate the knob (fnnarr).

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It's beautifully machined and looks/feels great in the hand (giggle). Obviously installing a metal gear knob the evening before our first heavy frost of the year was a great idea...luckily I tend to drive with my gloves on at this time of year anyway.
 
Obviously installing a metal gear knob the evening before our first heavy frost of the year was a great idea...luckily I tend to drive with my gloves on at this time of year anyway.
Ah, the classic "freezing in winter, burn your hand in summer". The MG community occasionally distributed little knitted toppers, or silicone ones :D
 
What kind of maniac replaces 3 tyres?
You need help. :p
Well i replaced 2 so it could go through mot. Mot guy flagged my rear tyre as a fail because the outer edge of another tyre was a bit worn. Lowest point was 1.8mm and was 3mm+ for the rest of the tyre. It was last day before my mot ran out and they waited till end of the day to put it through so i ended up with 30 mins and an mot tester who admitted it wasnt lower than 1.6 but wouldnt change it to a pass. So i ended up buying the cheapest thing they sold just to gtfo of there.
 
Lowest point was 1.8mm and was 3mm+ for the rest of the tyre. It was last day before my mot ran out and they waited till end of the day to put it through so i ended up with 30 mins and an mot tester who admitted it wasnt lower than 1.6 but wouldnt change it to a pass.
Wtf, why even do that?
If he was in doubt, then pass and advise.
 
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