What have you done to your car today?

maccapacca said:
I forgot to get a sensor for the rear pads on the E39 yesterday so today I cut the sensor and soldered the wires together, voila no 'check brake lining meassage'
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So now you have disabled the low pad warning entirely? Given you can plug a new sensor in without doing anything more than taking a wheel off I would have been tempted to just... Buy a sensor later?
 
Matt82 said:
when i did the front arms on the BMW, a new pair would have been c.£600

new ball joints and bushes, however, were c.£150-c.£200

I dont have the equipment to do ball joints though so had to take them somewhere. The first place gave me a lol-quote to do the work, the next place was sensible (£40-£50) but when i took it there i had everything marked so that there was no way they could get the wrong ball joint in the wrong hole or the wrong way :S
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Ah the joy of the cheap old Pug :D
 
[TW]Fox;23506596 said:
So now you have disabled the low pad warning entirely? Given you can plug a new sensor in without doing anything more than taking a wheel off I would have been tempted to just... Buy a sensor later?
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I'm guessing he has spliced after the connection so that if/when a new sensor is bought it's just a case of unplugging / plugging in
 
Got the wife a replacement car on 31st Dec as the Mondeo broke down on xmas day - 06 plate Astra Club 1.8 46k miles - nice car for her to run to work with and take the kids out in.

I could forgoe the leather heated seats, climate control, rear lecy windows of the Mondeo and even the heated front screen - but I'd really miss the cruise control on long journeys.

So, bought a CC stalk of ebay for £32 quid, clutch switch for £8 and a OPCOM lead/software for £26.

Spent yesterday afternoon fitting the stalk (dead easy), the switch (fiddly) and dropping the connector from behind the dash to the switch (had to remove some of the dash) and then run the grey sense wire from the switch to the ECU. Opened up the OPCOM software and programmed CC in (and auto lock on drive off) and jobs a good 'un.

Functioning cruise control for £66!
 
[TW]Fox;23508881 said:
But what would be the point in that, just leave it unconnected until you get a sensor surely.
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Agree, if I were doing it it would only be to semi-permanently disable the sensors but with the option for any future owner to put them on tbh.

Generally speaking I'll know the pads need doing well in advance
 
Gayjin said:
**Ahem**

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Only reason the rear ones aren't on it is because the previous owner pulled them off :mad:
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I suggest you pull the front ones off too, they look terrible and ruin a perfectly good looking car, with cheap tacky plastic hanging from your door frame
 
mattyprice4004 said:
The sensors are open circuit when worn through - so it'd leave the very annoying light on.

Bridge the circuit = light off.
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Yea but for a week tops? putting a new sensor on takes like 5 minutes. Whereas getting the solding iron out and soldering the wires together seems a bit more like it was intended to disable it permanantly?
 
rossk26 said:
I suggest you pull the front ones off too, they look terrible and ruin a perfectly good looking car, with cheap tacky plastic hanging from your door frame
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Suggest all you want, they are staying :)

And on the contrary, you may well think they are tacky, but cheap they are not. They are Mitsubishi OEM items and came with the car.
 
[TW]Fox;23510942 said:
Yea but for a week tops? putting a new sensor on takes like 5 minutes. Whereas getting the solding iron out and soldering the wires together seems a bit more like it was intended to disable it permanantly?
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It does indeed, however if I was doing it it'd probably be one of those jobs I put off for ages with the way the weather's been here.

Pull wire off, blob of solder, plug back in - rather than having to take the pads out (do you have to take the pads out? Not done them on the 75).
 
Put a new headlight bulb in as one has gone, also noted that some of the headlamp has melted away....

Oh yea... £15 for a normal bulb in halfrauds! £24 for super brilliance and £30!!! for an Ultra Brilliance... went with a £15 bulb kit and may grab a set of nightbreakers for £20 if these don't work out.
 
Remapped my Mazda 6 MPS today and removed the torque limiter from the first few gears which has made a very nice difference. It now pulls hard right to the limiter whereas before the power would dive after about 5800rpm, feels like a different car beyond ~ 5500rpm. It feels more responsive throughout the range.

It should be 280+ bhp now, would love to get it dyno'd.
 
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