What "man jobs" have you done today?

I've found a thread on the plasterers forum that suggests the beading may have had an oily finisher on it before it was plastered, and to use a stain blocker on it. A fella came back with results saying the following:

Hello everyone

Applying an oil-based stain block and then painting over did the trick! I hope this helps - I first applied the stain block using a brush but the final painted finish wasn't very good. Using one of those small foam rollers to apply a thin coat of stain block gave a much better finish.

Thanks again! R

So I'll give this a go and report back! Thanks for your suggestions
 
The outdoor tap cover came yesterday.
I'm normally on this sooner but I couldn't find it.

We had a new outdoor tap fitted last year as the other was .... Ropey.
Didn't realise an isolation valve was fitted.

So lunch yesterday. Tap off, water drained, cover on.
Cuppa and back into the garage rebuilding playstation 3s

I think I'm winter ready now ....probably forgot something.
 
We've got a single skin brick side return and utility adjacent to our kitchen. It has 2 skin brick columns every 2m or so for structural support. It's absolutely freezing in there. I'm wondering if it's worth slapping some insulated plasterboard on the single skin walls? My main concern is that the brick columns won't be insulated, as it would protrude too much and make the passage too narrow. Would not insulating these columns render insulating the rest of the wall itself fairly pointless?
 
Same here but a day earlier -So glad I fitted isolation valves with handles on - Those slot ones for screwdrivers always seem to sieze up if you don't spin them on regular basis.
Also turned taps on on the water butts to drain them.- don't want them freezing up and splitting.
This winter seems to have come all of a sudden and caught me on the hop.
 
We've got a single skin brick side return and utility adjacent to our kitchen. It has 2 skin brick columns every 2m or so for structural support. It's absolutely freezing in there. I'm wondering if it's worth slapping some insulated plasterboard on the single skin walls? My main concern is that the brick columns won't be insulated, as it would protrude too much and make the passage too narrow. Would not insulating these columns render insulating the rest of the wall itself fairly pointless?
I think you'll find that the room will get warmer but the columns won't, so you might be at risk of condensation/damp on them. It may help a bit though, possibly depends what the room is like at present (e.g. almost warm enough vs garage sort of temperatures)
 
The outdoor tap cover came yesterday.
I'm normally on this sooner but I couldn't find it.

We had a new outdoor tap fitted last year as the other was .... Ropey.
Didn't realise an isolation valve was fitted.

So lunch yesterday. Tap off, water drained, cover on.

For some weird reason, my outdoor tap is teedoff the WC cistern feed so, if I use the isolation valve, it also turns the WC toilet water off :o.... INsulated cover over the tap and see what happens. Not had an issue in the years I have been here uet with just that.


I think I'm winter ready now ....probably forgot something.

Salt for the paths/driveway? (I got a 20kg bag of white salt last week - cant be having red salt and all the mess it leaves :o)
 
I currently have a wall mounted extractor in our en suite bathroom, which is not doing a sufficient job of getting steam out leaving us with condesation on the window, tiles and more recently the start of black mould on the ceiling - the wall mounted extractor is not situated in the best place for effective extraction, and only pulls 15l a minute.

I've ordered a Manrose 100t inline extractor unit to be put in the loft space which I'll use in conjuction with the above, which will vent out of an also ordered Ubbink UB41 with the pick up point being in the shower, with 60l a minute extraction rates.

Can I just cut the cable feeding the existing wall extractor, and Wago junction box the two extractors together off the same isolator? I can't see it being an issue given the relatively low loads involved.

Is there a reason to not use both extractors simultaneously off the same isolator?
Going ahead with this, and adding a switched fused spur to each run just for some safety reassurance and individual isolation - just a 3A fuse in each.
 
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