Hmm yeah tough, you can hang insulated PB on that bit. It will be a right mess if you pull that down. Mine was PB at least, I’ve heard lath and plaster is an absolute mess to take out.
What "man jobs" have you done today?
- Thread starter jaybee
- Start date
Associate
Dropped a tin of paint onto a tiled floor which is not grouted yet. The tin popped open and spilled white paint everywhere, especially into the gaps between the tiles. Doh!
Soldato
Today I disassembled a bed and toddler bed. I then disassembled a bunk bed at someone's house, filled my car and brought it back home to rebuild here. Absolutely goosed.
I have a DIY question I don't want to make a new thread for. My mother has two failed taps for he bathroom basin. One is dripping, the other not flowing so I need to replace both. Unfortunately I'm relying on her photos to figure out what taps and tools I need... anyone any ideas from this? Cheers!
I have a DIY question I don't want to make a new thread for. My mother has two failed taps for he bathroom basin. One is dripping, the other not flowing so I need to replace both. Unfortunately I'm relying on her photos to figure out what taps and tools I need... anyone any ideas from this? Cheers!
Soldato
Feel your pain, I once did it with a 15l coloured wood stain in B&Q allover the self service machine .....
Today I disassembled a bed and toddler bed. I then disassembled a bunk bed at someone's house, filled my car and brought it back home to rebuild here. Absolutely goosed.
I have a DIY question I don't want to make a new thread for. My mother has two failed taps for he bathroom basin. One is dripping, the other not flowing so I need to replace both. Unfortunately I'm relying on her photos to figure out what taps and tools I need... anyone any ideas from this? Cheers!
Not sure what those fittings are, they don't look like HEP or JG which are the two must common. They may be really old.
In all honestly, I'd cut the pipe at a lower level and either extend it back up to the new taps with JG speed fit fittings. The couplers, inserts and tap connectors are cheap and you can buy pipe by 2m lengths at screw fix.
They are so easy to work with, it is very hard to go wrong with them.
Last edited:
Soldato
You'll want a good basin wrench for undoing and refitting the taps themselves to the basin.I have a DIY question I don't want to make a new thread for. My mother has two failed taps for he bathroom basin. One is dripping, the other not flowing so I need to replace both. Unfortunately I'm relying on her photos to figure out what taps and tools I need... anyone any ideas from this? Cheers!
For plumbing fittings the taps will likely have ¾" thread IIRC so you can find a ¾" to push fit connector, then 15mm pipe and connectors from there. I like JG Speedfit and Screwfix have loads of pieces. Plan it all out on paper with connectors and pipes, then lay those same bits out on a table to be sure you've got all the pieces.
If there's no service valve on the tap feeds I always add one in in-line at this point when doing the work.
This should let you connect tap tails to 15mm pipe and away you go:
JG Speedfit Plastic Push-Fit Straight Tap Connector 15mm x 3/4" - Screwfix
Order online at Screwfix.com. Push straight onto copper tube. Removable and reusable. Water Research Council Approved. British Gas Service approved for water pipes. No tools needed. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.
I removed enough for a loft hatch and that tiny section must have weighed in excess of 30kgs. It was "PROPER" and the way it oozes through above means its pretty bullet proof - however, the nails fail and the laths sag and then it's all downhill from there.
----------
Few Qs:
This window was fitted with massive gaps either side. Can I just foam these? 1930s solid wall.
Second Q:
I am debating a digital shower again, because you can get ones that just drop from the ceiling and this seems quite simple. However, they are SUPER expensive and I loathe to be unable to shower because the powers out.
Can I chase out the wall sufficiently enough to do a typical bar type setup? It is single skin clinker but allow 10mm or so for plater and the another 4mm for tile board - will I get 90 on the copper and not **** it up?
I can't remember how you even fit these - and before I had access behind the wall......Don’t know on your second question.I removed enough for a loft hatch and that tiny section must have weighed in excess of 30kgs. It was "PROPER" and the way it oozes through above means its pretty bullet proof - however, the nails fail and the laths sag and then it's all downhill from there.
----------
Few Qs:
This window was fitted with massive gaps either side. Can I just foam these? 1930s solid wall.
Second Q:
I am debating a digital shower again, because you can get ones that just drop from the ceiling and this seems quite simple. However, they are SUPER expensive and I loathe to be unable to shower because the powers out.
Can I chase out the wall sufficiently enough to do a typical bar type setup? It is single skin clinker but allow 10mm or so for plater and the another 4mm for tile board - will I get 90 on the copper and not **** it up?
First question, yes you can (and should) foam it, they should be sealed from the outside. Check the seal around your frame from outside. If it’s not great it’s not too bad a job. CT1 or similar, nice fat bead.
Associate
Trip to ikea and man handled the 3 pax wardrobes, doors, shelves etc into the car along with a desktop and drawers and some other random tat. It was a good test of the wife’s terracos load capacity. Didn’t even have to abandon the kids to make more room.
Dissembled and shifted the old wardrobe and a desk and managed to get the new wardrobe built but ran out of time for the desk or another dump run.
Dissembled and shifted the old wardrobe and a desk and managed to get the new wardrobe built but ran out of time for the desk or another dump run.
Soldato
Started this weekend and most the way thru now. Taken me all weekend and just need to tidy up the units a little bit and get the doors onto the front of the wall tv hung unit.
Got 3x hdmi 2.1 cables, ethernet and power pulled up behind the telly.
6 corefix for the tv unit
5 for the telly
14 screws/plugs for the wall panels
[
About 10mm clearance between the speaker and the telly.
Got 3x hdmi 2.1 cables, ethernet and power pulled up behind the telly.
6 corefix for the tv unit
5 for the telly
14 screws/plugs for the wall panels
[
About 10mm clearance between the speaker and the telly.
About 10mm clearance between the speaker and the telly.
It’s almost like you measured it
Looks good and going nowhere.
Soldato
- Joined
- 25 Sep 2012
- Posts
- 3,189
Today I disassembled a bed and toddler bed. I then disassembled a bunk bed at someone's house, filled my car and brought it back home to rebuild here. Absolutely goosed.
I have a DIY question I don't want to make a new thread for. My mother has two failed taps for he bathroom basin. One is dripping, the other not flowing so I need to replace both. Unfortunately I'm relying on her photos to figure out what taps and tools I need... anyone any ideas from this? Cheers!
Try one of these for the backnut that secures the tap to the basin -
|
and for the tap connector -
Adjustable Basin WrenchMakes reaching bath tap nuts & basin tap nuts easy. Adjustable pivoting head with hardened steel jaws. Fits 1/2" and 3/4" nuts.
www.toolstation.com
|
This looks like what you have in the pic -
Polypipe PolyPlumb PB715 15mm x 1/2" Straight Tap Connector Brass Connecting Nut - Single | DIY at B&QPolyPlumb is a traditional push-fit plumbing, tried and tested, grey plumbing system. Robust and reliable, PolyPlumb has stood the test of time. PolyPlumb fittings feature a one step jointing process and a high performance stainless steel grab ring within the fitting, ensuring superb joint...
www.diy.com
|
Nice job that. What did you use for the panelling?
At least I'm not the only one. I tried to grab a tin of paint off of a shelf, my hands failed and I ended up throwing it on the floor. It went everywhere. There's still blue paint splattered up one of the pillars in there several years on.
Last edited:
Soldato
Similarly I was with my two daughters probably like 4 and 5 years old at the time chosing the colors to paint their playhouse in the garden
Lifted the (large and quite heavy) tin to the machine to scan and twisted it in its side to access the bar code. Managed to just catch the lid on the corner of the machine.
There was a "ping" as, in slow motion, the lid flew off a a wave of pale green stain tsunami'd out the tin and started to ooze out across the machine.
I just stood there looking at my daughters, looking at me, months wide open im shock horror
Paint seeping down into the machine and a veritable lake growing ever larger from the machine.
To make matters worse it was a bank holiday Saturday afternoon and it was rammed ......
Out the tin down and had no idea what to do. Fair play one of the staff asked if I wanted them to get me another from the shelf
I muttered something, grabbed the kids and speedily exited the store
Soldato
- Joined
- 19 Jan 2006
- Posts
- 4,535
Decent looking setup! Is that an off the shelf unit you've fitted, or something you made specifically?
You'd think expanding foam was an expensive commodity given how little they seem to use to seal round a window, nearly all of mine were the same.I removed enough for a loft hatch and that tiny section must have weighed in excess of 30kgs. It was "PROPER" and the way it oozes through above means its pretty bullet proof - however, the nails fail and the laths sag and then it's all downhill from there.
----------
Few Qs:
This window was fitted with massive gaps either side. Can I just foam these? 1930s solid wall.
Second Q:
I am debating a digital shower again, because you can get ones that just drop from the ceiling and this seems quite simple. However, they are SUPER expensive and I loathe to be unable to shower because the powers out.
Can I chase out the wall sufficiently enough to do a typical bar type setup? It is single skin clinker but allow 10mm or so for plater and the another 4mm for tile board - will I get 90 on the copper and not **** it up?
Whacked a load of roam round the edge and its fine, it was sealed from the outside but only with sealant, hardly the most effective of insulators. I also ripped the cill off all my windows and insulated underneath it and replaced.
lol dude, I hate you and love you for this post. You inspired me to go and quickly fill the gaps. First gun had pretty much ran out of gas so I used a new one. Overdid the top but not without forgetting to pay attention; turned around and big dollops of it came bashing down all of the window handles, surround and glass. Horrid stuff - blew through a tonne of flannels and Sticky Stuff Remover
. All done though!I am inspired by the PIR stuff as well. What adhesive did you use? Did you then plasterboard to the battens?
Last edited:
