Associate
- Joined
- 6 Nov 2002
- Posts
- 1,187
Anyone got any advice on which replacement air filter is best for my 172?
Seems to be a choice of:
ITG
K&N
Green
Pipercross
Cheers
Speak to JMS Tuning
Who here owns a Renaultsport?
- Thread starter russ9898
- Start date
Speak to JMS Tuning
Anyone got any advice on which replacement air filter is best for my 172?
Seems to be a choice of:
ITG
K&N
Green
Pipercross
Cheers
If just replacing the filter ITG all the way.
Fastcar (don't laugh, a chap on CS works for them
) ran a back to back filter and induction kit test and the ITG in standard (phase 1) airbox came out tops.If you are wanting an induction kit or new manifold setup then look at the specialists like JMS, but be prepared to pay for the privilege
I've been sort of looking at late 172's /early 182's recently, as a possible replacement for my Fiat. Seems I get something not too much slower, but with the potential of better economy on my commute, and something that handles well.
One thing I have seen mentioned a lot is timing belt replacement; is it a particularly nasty job on these engines? It doesn't look too bad to me, certainly an awful lot better than the Fiat.
Also a couple of the buyers guides I have read suggest clutches don't tend to last much more than 60k miles - is this simply a consequence of the way people drive them or are they just a bit "French" in the longevity department?
One thing I have seen mentioned a lot is timing belt replacement; is it a particularly nasty job on these engines? It doesn't look too bad to me, certainly an awful lot better than the Fiat.
Also a couple of the buyers guides I have read suggest clutches don't tend to last much more than 60k miles - is this simply a consequence of the way people drive them or are they just a bit "French" in the longevity department?
The timing belt doesn't look hard and it isn't if you have the required tools for it. Apparently some special locking tools are needed for the floating pulley etc!
As for clutches, id say that a normal. Again quite a fiddly job but they are quite cheap to do.
Clutches last fine, mine was 10 years old and on 102k when I sold it and it was as fresh as a daisy. Infact the whole car was bar some stone chips here and there.
Timing belt is a bit of a pain, just need to slacken the mounts so you can move the engine up and down to get to various bits I've been told. And you do need the locking tools to do it properly.
Even so, it's £500 from a specialist and that's with the full cambelt kit (which includes all the tensioners) and the full aux belt kit.
Which considering how cheap they are to run the rest of the time I didn't mind that.
Timing belt is a bit of a pain, just need to slacken the mounts so you can move the engine up and down to get to various bits I've been told. And you do need the locking tools to do it properly.
Even so, it's £500 from a specialist and that's with the full cambelt kit (which includes all the tensioners) and the full aux belt kit.
Which considering how cheap they are to run the rest of the time I didn't mind that.
Nope it was fine, only things that went wrong off the top of my head were:
end snapped off a coil spring
leaky shock
window regulator chewed itself
exhaust rotted
That's in just over 5 years and over 70k miles.
Fuel guage also had a weird intermittant problem that I tracked down to a loose/dodgy wire going into the dash cluster but never had a chance to fix it. That's by no means common though as no one I spoke to had seen it before!
Exhausts do go on these, poor backbox design means there's too much weight on one of the joins and they just break.
Guy who bought it off me last week said he'd been to see 9 already and had seen a lot of tosh, but he was specifically looking for a phase 1 so you might not get that problem with a later one.
end snapped off a coil spring
leaky shock
window regulator chewed itself
exhaust rotted
That's in just over 5 years and over 70k miles.
Fuel guage also had a weird intermittant problem that I tracked down to a loose/dodgy wire going into the dash cluster but never had a chance to fix it. That's by no means common though as no one I spoke to had seen it before!
Exhausts do go on these, poor backbox design means there's too much weight on one of the joins and they just break.
Guy who bought it off me last week said he'd been to see 9 already and had seen a lot of tosh, but he was specifically looking for a phase 1 so you might not get that problem with a later one.
Ok due to some financial problems i can not get the 5k i wanted to buy a celica
So i will have around 3k now. 172 looks a cracking buy for the money is it worth looking at the 3k budget? or will they all be nailed?
you would get a tidy one for £3k mate
have a look in the for sale section on CS forums, theres a few for sale.
Good thing about buying from CS forums is, they do not allow you to edit your own posts, so if you see a car you like you just search all posts made by that user and instantly have history on the car and any work that has been done to it etc
Soldato
- Joined
- 13 Jan 2004
- Posts
- 23,815
- Location
- South East
My 182 is giving me yet MORE problems. There is a nasty metallic rattle coming from under the car (around the cat). I think the exhaust is screwed, so when I get paid at the end of the month a Milltek will be going on, and I'll probably treat myself to some Eibach Sportlines. Next up, some Turinis, then that is everyone that I want done, done.
Check the heatshield above the back box they have a tendancy to wear through at that point. Can be fixed by using a couple of oversized washers. My exhaust had a hole in the centre section, the backbox was ok. Its all one section from the cat back on the original exhaust. I replaced mine with a Milltek which in my opinion sounds great although it is a bit louder than the standard. I also remapped with an RSTuner an added an ITG panel filter at the same time
Last edited:
Quite a few little things with each change.
The facelifted 'phase 2' 172 as well as the obvious body changes introduced Xenon lights on the non cup model, climate control insread of air con, fbw throttle instead of of cable, different gear ratios (only slightly, to counteract the increase in weight I believe). Also been told the factory geo on the suspension is a little different, and as said it gained some weight.
Different type of cat in the exhaust system as well, oh and the wheels went from nice 15 inch OZ alloys to some meh 16 inch Renault alloys.
Those are the obvious things I can think of but there's probably loads I've missed
All in all it was a little softer, not much, than the original phase 1 172.
Then the cup came along, ripping out loads of things, abs, sound deadening, climate (although an option on later cups), even thinner glass on the windscreen I think. This brought the weight right back down to below phase 1 levels.
It also had some nice 16inch speedline Turini wheels.
Then the 182 came with a new exhaust system, it's been said a lot of the extra power is down to the different manifold used (4-2-1 rather than a 4-1 in the 172). You could also have the optional cup packs on a standard 182 which gave you a front splitter and larger rear spoiler, and a different suspension setup (along with dark wheels instead of silver).
182 cup tried to trim some fat but didn't do as good a job as the 172 cup, climate was just downgraded to air con rather than being ripped out altogether, abs stayed, xenons went.
And lastly the 182 Trophy came along with it's posh suspension with Sachs dampers (with reomte reserviors), V6 sized spoiler, nice Recaro seats, like a cup it had no Xenons or climate. Also had anthracite Turinis.
I've probably forgotton some things so sure many will be able to hgihlight all my mistakes and ommissions
Personally i'd just buy a 182 with both Cup packs given how cheap you can pick them up now. The 172 Cup doesn't have many toys (an even more poverty interior) and no ABS. If you can live with that then you'll probably love it, if not a Ph2 172 or 182 (with cup packs) is the better option.
Last edited:
Thats nice to know. Ill be looking around in september.
Get either a trophy or if you want to spend a little less then go for the 182 with both cup packs
Has anybody got any experience with K-Tek in Verwood, Dorset? I'm going with my girlfriend's Dad to get his 182 remapped on Thursday and they said that it's costing About £200-£250 I think. Requires a dyno run, then the remap, and then another dyno run - dyno run is £45 each!
We're also thinking that with a bit of extra power, the brakes are likely to have to be upgraded too - any recommendations?
We're also thinking that with a bit of extra power, the brakes are likely to have to be upgraded too - any recommendations?
I dont think 182s make huge gains with a remap so probably arent worth it, unless youve had lots of mods done to it. Unless you have lots of money to throw away, it could be a bit pointless, and you may well be a bit disappointed with the results after burning £250+ on it. Especially if you decide to do engine mods afterwards, and have to get it custom remapped again!